BobbyBreeze

Home foundry, Ceramic shell, generally lost-PLA though I'm starting to play around with wax a bit. I've got a mate who helps with resin printing and he has some burnable casting resin to try out so that's the next mission. Most my stuff is intake manifolds for my own product line but can do anything really, as long as I can get into internal cavities to remove the ceramic. Pumps and blower would be a good use case for investment casting for sure!

Ah very interesting. Do you know if it was a one off? Never seen any Merc T5 bells before. I know you can get Merc boxes for them but they basically all have to come from Europe so end up being pretty expensive here.

Super sweet! Whats the story behind the T5 conversion?

Nice to see ya on Ivans shed! Keep up the good work! If you need anything investment cast let me know, I'd be happy to help.

I'll just leave this here.

I live on a very loose shingle beach, all manner of 4x4s get stuck here all the time. We have a basher SWB V6 Escudo on 33x10s for beach duties, it does well but its a turd grubby thing and I want to replace it. W163 is pretty high up the list for replacements as I am a Benz foamer. So, what are they like on the loose stuff? I worry about buying a 2 ton 4x4 and it not being usable here. I'd probably stick some 315/75R16 all terrains on the stock rims and lift as required for clearance. Doit?

Thanks Clint! I will 3d scan the floorpan and CAD up the proposed rails for design approval.

I want to lift the chassis rails above the floorpan in my FairladyZ (260Z) for some more ground clearance. Basic thinking was get a new top-hat section folded and cut to fit the floorpan above the original ones, plug weld them in then remove the old ones at the floorpan, probably capping with some 3mm to give a bit of impact protection. At the front the new rail would go through the floorpan and fish-plate into the sides of the old rail, with a gusset to the castor arm mount. Any issue doing this as long as I can prove the new rail is stiffer than the old one? They are officially classed as floor stiffeners as they finish behind the seats and are only ~30mm deep.

Dang all those photos gone. Anyway, still have this. In the last 10 years I put some widened Sprite steels on it with 155/65s and installed my 600lb competition springs. Big plans awaiting heart transplant but at least it looks pretty in the garage now.

She's home. @nick_m has done a fantastic job of the fab work.

I can investment cast them for you Joe if you'd like. Totally doable yourself, just be prepared to spend a load of time on it and have some failures along the way. I'm still screwing up the odd casting and I've been doing it for 7 years now. Feel free to hit me up if you want any advice.

I'd go A series turbo, and spend the $ you were going to spend on the Stanza parts car on tune up parts. Stanza stuff does fit but there are some minor differences between bodyshells. The L16 is a stout engine and 150hp turbo is childs play for one, however 150hp from an A series is also childs play. A series is definitely more in character with a Sunny, Ls can be a bit slouchy to get humming along nicely unless they are worked properly. Ask @RUNAMUCK about that. I have a 310 manual pedal box here if you want one to convert. Actually a 56a as well. 56a and H150 will probably take 150hp if you are nice to it and don't run big tyres / launches. Do yourself a favour and use an A15. They aren't too hard to find in C20/C22 Vanettes still. Keep an eye on Pickapart. Should be able to get one for around $500. EDIT.. just noticed you are in Aus. Ignore the NZ spec comments

Nick has done a great job. I think we struck a good balance between strength and weight.

Seat mounts in, cage is all tacked up ready for dropping down and welding.