BobbyBreeze

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About BobbyBreeze

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  • Birthday 09/09/1986

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  1. Such a sweet video! Just goes to show you its not a super cut and dry thing for huge gains. Roman has had the same sort of results I believe. Did you play with injector timing much?
  2. Jamie with the Ingear Starlet picked up decent gains going to outboards only and it idles & runs well with great throttle response (Atlantic 4AGE). Be interesting to see what fuel pressure and injectors he is running. I get the feeling for them to work well at lower airspeeds you need higher fuel pressure and a wide cone spray pattern on a modern injector for maximum atomisation. I can imagine them being a pain to tune as well, as injector timing will have to vary throughout the whole map depending on airspeed and reversion.
  3. Well I guess I respectfully disagree there. Good to know what their take on it is though...
  4. Yeah that looks quite bad. Definitely shouldn't have been let out the door imo. Might be okay but I personally probably wouldn't run it.
  5. They should be smooth, shiny almost polished finish off the grinder, like ~15RA surface roughness. If they are rough then they will eat the lifter for sure. Have you got any photos? Sounds like maybe the grinder operator didn't do a very nice finishing dress on the wheel.
  6. Yeah, the throttle plate creates a lot of turbulence downstream, even open. I can't recall specifics but I know Duckworth has talked about this, I believe he said it takes a decent amount of length of straight port before the flow cleans up again. So you are better off running them as far away from the port as possible, as the dirty flow can cause early flow separation off the short turn in the port. Of course, the further out the throttle plate from the valve the larger it needs to be. In terms of harmonic turning I don't think there would be a big difference at WOT, though you may get some different effects at lower throttle openings if there are reflections off the throttle.
  7. I still have this. Business has been taking all my time and money, but it is about time I had it going. Plan is a basic but very hot street car mainly set up for trackdays, clubsprints and sealed gymkhanas. I'll have some fun in it while I sort some of my other cars and then it will be getting full cage and TS cup treatment as some advertising and engine testing for my company. Just getting the suspension together now. I've had some custom Shockworks coilovers made up for it, valved and length to suit. Front are 50mm inverted monotubes which is cool. T3 GTX2 lower control arms and tension control rods. T3 steering arms & T3 RCA. Rear will be coilover conversion, so turreting is the next mission. Unfortunately the front isn't as low as I'd like and the coilovers are on the limit of how short they could make them. So I am going to cast some 20mm raised strut tops up. Next mission. It won't be as low as it used to be
  8. Unfortunately I'm too stacked with work at the moment to get any good test trumpets out in the next few weeks. Super keen to get in on some testing in the future though. Some tests that I would be interesting to try out, all using the same basic sizing for proper back to backs: Aluminium vs. plastic - have heard reports of people losing power from trumpets flexing with intake pulses. Even in composites. Printed with layer lines vs. smoothed. Radiused entry vs. sharp entry. Wide vs. tall elliptical profile. Taper angle. The issue with this stuff is likely to be very engine dependent in a lot of cases, so I am not sure how well results will extend to other engine setups. For example, the geometry that create the highest flow and the least wave reflection losses are generally opposing. So a motor that is airflow limited is going to make more power on a stack design that favours airflow over wave reflection. An engine with plenty of excess airflow potential is going to favour a stack with a better wave reflection. Still, will be interesting to do the testing for sure. Have you worked out your rough lengths for 2nd and 3rd harmonics? Doing a 2nd vs 3rd test would be cool too. Issue is to do it properly you have to change the whole intake really to keep the area taper the same.
  9. Awesome, thanks for the info man! Will be following along to see how you go with them. I agree regarding the Fortune Auto stuff - fine for street cars but if you're thinking about needing re-valving etc as a race car then it doesn't make a whole lot of sense choosing them.
  10. Interested in your experience ordering / build quality / driving thoughts on the MCA Reds? I'm considering going down the same route for my car (Datsun Sunny so similar weight and suspension layout to your car). $3k+ seems like a good price after you price up what some Bilsteins etc cost. What spring rates did you go for?
  11. Is the rocker tip sweeping off the edge of the valve stem and into the chamfer? Certainly needs looking at carefully, I'd be getting out the engineers blue and looking at the sweep over the valve stem and the adjuster. Looks to me like the base circle has been dropped quite a bit with the added lift, which lifts the rocker arm up at the valve end. So you wind out the adjuster to make up this clearance but now the adjuster tip moves outwards on the valve stem. Not much you can do to fix that on this motor unless you hardface the follower pad at the other end of the rocker. Lash caps might help too but I am sure Kelford can help you out with this. Large radiused tip adjusters are certainly a good idea seeming you've got like 5mm more lift than OEM. Those L200 ones look the ticket. Worth spending $8 to find out. p.s. nice Big cam! Edit/ 4g63 sohc don't have a cam tunnel haha
  12. Agreed with Markku, twisted cartridge rolls are the best. I've never had any luck with standard sanding drums really. Just make sure you true up your mandrel/arbor like you do with carbides etc and run them quite slow and its amazing how long they can last.