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About BobbyBreeze

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  • Birthday 09/09/1986

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  1. Awesome, thanks for the info man! Will be following along to see how you go with them. I agree regarding the Fortune Auto stuff - fine for street cars but if you're thinking about needing re-valving etc as a race car then it doesn't make a whole lot of sense choosing them.
  2. Interested in your experience ordering / build quality / driving thoughts on the MCA Reds? I'm considering going down the same route for my car (Datsun Sunny so similar weight and suspension layout to your car). $3k+ seems like a good price after you price up what some Bilsteins etc cost. What spring rates did you go for?
  3. Is the rocker tip sweeping off the edge of the valve stem and into the chamfer? Certainly needs looking at carefully, I'd be getting out the engineers blue and looking at the sweep over the valve stem and the adjuster. Looks to me like the base circle has been dropped quite a bit with the added lift, which lifts the rocker arm up at the valve end. So you wind out the adjuster to make up this clearance but now the adjuster tip moves outwards on the valve stem. Not much you can do to fix that on this motor unless you hardface the follower pad at the other end of the rocker. Lash caps might help too but I am sure Kelford can help you out with this. Large radiused tip adjusters are certainly a good idea seeming you've got like 5mm more lift than OEM. Those L200 ones look the ticket. Worth spending $8 to find out. p.s. nice Big cam! Edit/ 4g63 sohc don't have a cam tunnel haha
  4. Agreed with Markku, twisted cartridge rolls are the best. I've never had any luck with standard sanding drums really. Just make sure you true up your mandrel/arbor like you do with carbides etc and run them quite slow and its amazing how long they can last.
  5. Still planning CA Josh? So keen to see how you get on! p.s. NA is best!
  6. Will be fine pre throttle I think but I would run sequential with a big enough injector you can get all your fuel in within the intake valve event. Transient fueling with wall wetting/pooling issues might be a bit more varied when cold. Still gonna be a ton better than a SU carb haha.
  7. Running a vacuum balance bar actually has no real advantage in terms of max vacuum pulled. As the vacuum pulses on paired cylinders end up cancelling each other out as the other cylinder is in overlap. (same as cross talking on plenum manifolds and is the whole point of individual carbs / throttles). It should only take a few cycles to pull enough vacuum off one runner for power brakes with normal road cam timing. If you need more you can run a line off each runner with one-way valves off each to stop the cross-talk, but really shouldn't be needed on most stuff. I agree on repetes comment regarding pulsing for vacuum advance though. The pulses off one runner will screw with that.
  8. Vacuum for the booster shouldn't be an issue? Tap a 1/4" NPT barb off one runner and make sure you have no leaks & a one-way valve.
  9. Don't make me go all DaveScienceā„¢ on you can get out some graphs of lobe stress. But yeah unlikely to be an issue on stock shit that's not daily driven and gets good oil changes. Its just good practice in my mind, so I mentioned it. The higher the rpm the peak stress reduces on the nose and increases on the flanks..until you start to loft the valve and there is no stress on the nose.. But the stress on the flanks are a lot less as the radius of curvature is greater. High rpm is actually a lot easier on the cam as long as the valve doesn't overcome the spring.
  10. Yep. Love me a high idle. The peak stress over the nose of the cam occurs at idle speed, combined with lowest oil flow equals worn cams/buckets. Worn lifters / cams on flat tappets is so common though I always tell people to high idle even on stock stuff. It gets so much worse with proper cam profiles and high rate valve springs too.
  11. Good work Roman! Crank that idle speed though **think of the cams**
  12. May be of some help. I believe the TX-04 is AMR500 but cannot confirm.