87creepin

That's a good price. Tempted for the daily to have nice cold air so im not sweating my tits off. Haha

How much was the regas? Cold air sounds lush

Bypassed my heater core with a 5/8 or 16mm 180deg hose from gates Part number 18777. Supplied from rockauto for $6, repco or sca may have it too. Also replaced this "boot", it connects the air intake to the turbo inlet Intercooler and strut tower brace went back on, and I proceeded to bleed the coolant. I follow (loosely) a bleeding procedure I found on the local Subaru forums: Air con set to heat and max, tip coolant in upper radiator hose first then top up reservoir, and occasionally rev/hold the revs at 3000rpm. Wait for about 2 cycles of the rad fans and keep it topped up. 2 should be enough and then there should be no more air bubbles in the coolant. It now drives well, just need to get a puncture fixed. Though other issues such as: Fugly exterior trim needs a repaint Rust coming through under quarter glass Sneaky concealment of windscreen crack Shifter bushes worn out bad Wheels need a repaint Loose zorst heat shield rattling I need to do a tk test due to the Overheating Can all wait til after I've done the water pump+timing belt (due in approx 2,000km). ~ As for the Corolla, I've given it a look over as it's due for a wof and sanded/painted lower rad support rust spots that I missed before. I tried to replace a lower engine mount but with the steering rack in the way I decided it was too much to do on the driveway at night so will leave it. Do it when engine is out, lol.

There may be some reinforcing brackets you may be able to copy their design? This also is an issue for Sw20 MR2s, which have a few aftermarket solutions for said issue.

Send me pics of yours and I'll take a look at mine and see if it'll work. I got it for the lude because the original was too far gone. It should work as I used an ef part no.

That's a pretty likeable father to be honest. Also what's the main relay like? If you plan on keeping it for a lot of kms I have a new one laying about, sometimes the resoldering is only good for x amount of ks, may or may not fit as its for older honduhs..

How important is exhaust and intake valve timing adjustment in boosted applications? Guessing its not as important as in n/a tuning...?

Honda have been using the same power steering and washer reservoirs for 30+ years, my 87 ba5 had the same. I also don't miss the engine being the wrong way round

fuck yeah, Toyota late 80s/early 90s was all about that English gibberish. It actually works.

Picless update! WRX - drives really nicely. Planned on getting a short video with the gopro, but hit a roadblock - coolant started steaming out of the ac vents, which suggests issue with the heater core.. I'll look at bypassing it, one day I'll replace the heater core. Also reason for no pic is intercooler pipe looks a bit AIDS being blue, next to a yellow intake manifold, in a red engine bay. Corolla - have a brand new engine mount and bushings for front lower control arm and rear trailing arm. It'll be a fun job I'm sure. Also need to get a (preferably mechless) new headunit as the one in the car is just cunty with an aux cord, it's a bit loose, and I need 4x rca's not 2x, plus need to raise the amp a good 15-20mm on the rack as the current position just placed too much strain on the rca connectors. Being cheap bit me in the bum again. Progress in this thread will be a bit dull/punishing for the next few months as I knuckle down saving for a house deposit.

assuming theres spot welded panels in there you'd want to put on a seam sealer on the seams there too. pretty much generic underbody paint, different brands perform differently, some are sprayed out of specialised guns and come out super thick and nice, others can be applied with aerosol and come out ok, then there's those that are aerosol and suck.

My AE101 has been using a bit of oil. I pulled the spark plugs to see if there was any oil on them, nope. Might be from the PCV valve, but that rattles fine.. Looks like when it was running lean they did get burnt. Oh well, runs ok now, will leave them in. And yes, one plug is a -11. After checking through the big NGK book the only difference between the two plugs was that one had an 11mm gap, the other three had 09. Gapped all to 9mm. I then jacked the car up, checked right rear brake because last WOF inspection the mechanic complained that it was noisy. Found that wheel nuts weren't ugga dugga'd up enough (torque wrench was in storage that night) and probable cause. Also found the shim(?) which fits into the inner bit of the drum was a bit ruff and bent in, so straightened that up a little. Rotated tyres, torqued wheel nuts. Amayama order came in for the Subaru Good thing theres a lot of listings per part for this car. And also good that Subarus are lego. Cos I ordered two wrong parts. I could've checked the part no on the rubber boot. But good thing the hose I needed most was the right one. This rubber boot connects the air intake to the turbo inlet. Its common for these to go bad on Subaru's, they just aren't built to last. here's a pic of a bolt I found in the hole below it. It's unfortunately pretty chooched, so cant be reused. Also to the right of said bolt is the cunty hose. It was hard to remove; I first removed the throttle body, and moved the hard shitty PCV gear out of the way. Alot of penetrant was used and I found leveraging a big flathead to be the best strategy, as the only other option is removing the intake manifold and everything above the coolant tree that the hose is connected to. there's the fitting where the hose goes to. It looks pretty rusty, good thing I've got a mint-ish spare from a ej25 outback that had a blown headgasket. It'll go on later. Also mind the jb weld crap, I've owned this car since when I was veery new to cars. I'm sorry. old vs new Chucked in some coolant, and pressure tested it. Managed to hold the specified 13psi/0.9bar, so we're good. Will bleed later. Got some 2" hoses/clamps/steel piping from redline performance to make up a new intercooler pipe. The original is no longer available brand new (or like $300 i can't remember) and is made of plastic and the flexi bit in the middle is a common failure point. Back in the day I had struggled on the motorway and was limited to about 60km/h and in limp mode, had to do a quick fix so macgyvered together a pipe made from jb weld, rad hose and whatever else. The temporary fix is finally being replaced. And it's also too short, and the intercooler doesn't fit because it fouls the engine mount. I'll cut the steel pipe a bit shorter, get a straight hose, it should squeeze down enough, and should be good. I really need to source a factory turbo heatshield. A previous owner removed it, and as a result I suspect heat has accelerated the deterioration of a lot of rubber things near the turbo.

I was gonna ask if Coby are any good, but looked at their website and under their resonators it states: Coby mufflers are manufactured with a thick gauge steelSuch a thick gauge muffles the high pitch or tinny sounds

How to get fart canny car less fart canny? Say Honda, Altezza, etc I'm guessing good headers, same amount of resonators as factory, avoid cheap muffler.

"knobs I've handled" Sorry I couldn't help myself.