87creepin

I actually followed this on TM for a bit, was super tempted but got my ae101r 5spd for the same price.

If its 2k high build primer then wet sand with about 400g. It'll look rubbish if you just paint right over unfinished 2k primer. Then get your surfacing primer on..

Would I be right to say that using a DA sander with say 40g or 80g and an interface pad for curved areas be safer than using abrasive wheels? I mean less chance of digging ugly divots in the paint? Believe it or not my dick face tutor advised us to grind the paint off with a grinding disc lol. At work we use DA sanders with 120/80g for the more difficult jobs.

From what I've used: 3M gold? = expensive, okay ish, not really my favourite to use as it's super runny. Nice to sand though and you generally won't need spot putty to fill holes etc. Used at fancy pants work Evercoat blue tin = good stuff, bit light, nice to sand, not as runny as 3m, what we used in course. Roberlo maxi fill = heavier filler, bit different to get used to as doesn't sand as nice and may need to go over with spot putty if high build primer doesn't fill holes etc, bit harder to feather edge, but an experienced panelbeater I knew loved it for bigger repairs and it was cos it didn't shrink much and was nice to use with the larger spreaders. Repco = I used it on my sills of my subaru that were smashed in. Sucked, always had giant holes. Good thing I used Underseal which filled it easily. Ain't fell off yet and I used amounts that would probably get me fired if I did it in industry lol Septone metal fibreglass reinforced = okay ish, hard to work like with most of this type of bog, but if you do it right can run magnets etc over the finished product and will be harder to detect bog due to metal filaments in it I'm in my 2nd year of being in the panel/paint industry so my opinion may not count for much

I'd Marshall for half a day if I'm allowed to "race" my 4afe daily for the rest

A tough wof = more picky on things such as suspension/brakes? Compliance inspection = removal of interior panels, bumpers etc to check for rust?

Yep pretty much swapping over my good parts from the one I currently have - rusty, reg on hold shell - to one that has a good rust free body but say an engine with a dead cylinder. Identical cars with minor differences such as colour, facelift/Pre-facelift etc

Hey guys i read about 7 pages but just want some confirmation about my issues I have a 1987 prelude I'm parting out. It's rusty af. Auto, reg on hold. Say if I get rid of it, find one that's less rusty but say needs a new engine could I swap my better ish engine in and go for a re vin with little to worry about? Do they remove fenders, wiper cowl, weatherstrips, trim, bumpers etc to check for rust? I've been told that they do, and it costs $600 to go through this process - but my source is unreliable so I'm here as old-school is pretty credible! Thanks

This looks like a mint run Too bad I'm a 4 wheel goon.