87creepin

For door/suv tailgate actuators that aren't working, is it usually the dc motor in it that's gone bad?

Nope. That's 3,000km.

Tbh, I got into cars from owning an MR2 3k seemed to be the consensus amongst the mr2oc guys.

Oil change intervals ~ How often is too often? I have a mate who's a mechanic and just asked him if 3,000km is fine. He said no. Waste of money. 6-7 minimum would be better. But I've always done 3k as that's what I was taught from MR2 forums and owning relatively high mileage cars.

Sometimes if they've been stored well, there will be no cracking to speak of. Hard yes/maybe but will appear to be mint.

@Bling how have the denso filters been for you?

Has anyone had any success with Ryco Syntec oil filters? The box says they are good for 15,000km. I usually get normal ryco filters but there weren't any in stock last time.

https://youtu.be/cARvU7jiffM

I haven't gone for an alignment in 3 years or so but isn't $65-75 the going rate?

Would you need an aftermarket ecu if you were to install ITBs? I'm worried that derestricting the intake side of things so much could cause a lean afr and detonation, especially under wide open throttle situations. I'm guessing that possibly using an AFR gauge (not obd2) and maybe fuel pump+injectors would need to be upgraded. Or run on 98 octane?

Could there be an issue with the fuel pump relay?

I get about 14km/l in mine, but thats mainly open road driving. exclusively town driving = 10-11km/l. I do rev it. And I find that my tank is actually closer to 37l than 42/45 or whatever is stated in the NZDM owners manual /No I won't fuck my fuel pump just to get a definitive answer. See if she can fill it, reset the trip counter to 0 and divide the trip counter number by the amount of litres she put in the vehicle. Can be as easy as just taking a photo of the gas pump reading once she's done.

when i worked at ripco the then-manager told me repco oils etc are pretty much made by penrite or whatever australian company to meet whatever standard repco specify. I've used repco brand coolant just cos it was cheap as hell with no issues. Would not use their oil though as decent name brand meets more standards stuff is only a few dollars extra. whatever you do use just flush the radiator out and get out as much of the old crud as you can.

A brief update: SW20: moved it out of home to storage, cleaned throttle body and decided that was enough dick punch in the engine bay for me. Had a bit of detonation on the drive but that will be sorted. Suspension clunked a bit, could be because things still settling, did install springs properly, but also could be because I ugga dugged every bolt on in a hurry. Also brakes were a bit too spongy. I did bleed them more than once but I think I'll need a vacuum bleeder rather than the cheap one man bleeder I've got... Looks kinda weird half done but trims installed etc. But I may be able to take it for a small drive round the yard to see if suspension is settled. Please excuse unfinishedness, number plate will be centred when finished. It'll stay, until it is time for it to get its chassis straightened (save $$$) GF8: Got a puncture I think from pulling over onto dodgy country roadsides, nails, glass etc. Sucks balls. But got a $9 water pipe from PaP (was actually like $25 because I didn't remove sensors and because got a mean lady at the desk) so it may work? Awesome Subie lego, got it from an EJ25 Outback, but there were many other subaru that I could've got the part from. The right hand head of this engine had orangey goo in the water jacket, whereas the left was pristine and green. I'm guessing it came to PaP because it had a blown head gasket, which the first gen ej25s are renown for. AE101: got a replacement wiper arm because the spring flew out of one of mine during the heavy rain 2 weekends ago. No more 1 wiper in the middle lol. The corolla has been doing ute duties moving shit, roof rack fully loaded, rear sacked out, no pics but I will get some when I have a new phone. Also scored some factory option period correct Pioneer parcel shelf speakers. They're no ts-x10s but they'll do for now. Resisted spending all my money on throttle bodies as I want ITBs.. But while space is limited for now I'll play around with fusion 360 and see if I can come up with something that'll work. Speaking of ITBs, I will probably have to look at giving my injectors a good clean first. This is because currently I get a little bit of detonation in some full throttle situations and I guess that my current intake set up gets a bit too much air. If this fails I could either just use 98 octane, retard the ignition timing a degree or two? Or possibly go to a hotter spark plug, perhaps.

Yep, everyone who replied is right. I thought winter tyres may work given all the stuff thats on the net about them, but seems like its all non credible shit. Only good for snow, got it. I was going to work out something staggered to save co$ts with some yokohamas I have kicking about but not worth it, I'll instead just get save for brand new good tyres and some nice wheels. Driving a bit more conservatively in the rain etc costs $0