87creepin

how to service really tight power door actuators, that don’t want to operate on central locking but otherwise work fine? is it as simple as a clean + regrease and lubricate the moving parts? I may have to replace the motors too. if anyone has any write ups/links to resources that would be handy, YouTube doesn’t have anything helpful on the topic.

Triple stepped headers dyno tested https://youtu.be/ExxNjUPTeTk?si=IQCabwUY-JJPiko7

I cannot find our exhaust thread, where has it gone? anyway here’s a pretty entertaining video featuring triple-stepped headers, dyno tested:

Why is DBW preferred to cable throttle for itbs?

That’s the right order of doing things What a beautiful shed. So much room for activities. though with a painted floor it could be a showroom.

@cletus have you tried fine steel wool agitating the purple iron stuff followed by steel wool with a metal polish? It may help to use a good name brand purple spray too. I’ve got similar baked on crap off by using above method

+1 for Konnwei. I have a KW600. Cost $100 2 years ago but same thing is now $115. /inflayshin

Here’s some sound clips, I’ve since purchased a mic but these will have to do for now. I’m pretty happy with the sound, it burbles, and isn’t tinny!

Long time no update, I’ve spent weeks thinking about how best to compare my dyno app graphs, I’ve tried gimp but it’s crap cos the graphs come out with different sized scales. A late night email to the developers and they told me how to do it on their website, and that they’re developing an in-app comparison feature. disclaimer, these are low budget indicative. I found that the 4AFE prefers stock ignition timing, adding 2 degrees didn’t help: Even when the muffler was installed, this is still the same: I didn’t want to advance timing by 4 degrees on 91 as that will probably knock, so fuelled up with 95 and then 98; the 95 didn’t make it to the graphs as must’ve been very stale and didn’t produce results we lose a bit of power and torque down low but picks up a bit after. I’m happy, but want to make det cans before advancing any more. I l think it’ll keep improving and we won’t see serious diminishing returns, as I can only rotate the dizzy so far. in my most recent day of testing, I must have split a cv boot: will probably do inner and outer both sides at same time as I hate this stuff. Add it to the list of maintenance things to do, which also has radiator and alternator. The top tank is going straw brown, will get an alloy one, and the alternator voltage is all over the place, even after I removed the fake HKS ground kit. I’ve also been spending some time on solid works, first I learnt how to make this exhaust manifold: took rough measurements of my car flange clearances etc: note the silly flange and lengths etc, this is only a few hours spent and 0 time spent researching header design, I’m still to figure out how to model flow and accurately work out the length of the runners. /itsacunt Also fit more Honda parts to my car, this time some Aliex Mugen pedals.

The Corolla managed to make 110hp, first I reset ignition timing to stock 10 deg btdc, suspecting this would be better, it was: the torque curve is noticeably better in the midrange, here’s the previous results for +12deg btdc: I then put in a Jerry can of 95, I should’ve gone into town and got it from a well-used station but instead got some questionable fuel from a nearby out-of-the-way gas station: all my tests on this fuel were pretty consistent too. undeterred, I burnt some of that crap out and went to get some of BP’s finest I then advanced timing by four degrees, and managed to see results from about 4000rpm the advanced timing starts to make a bit of difference, and the torque tapers off a bit later too. whilst these are small gains, the car does make 100~hp stock and that’s a 10% increase. It’s neat to see the impacts of a simple muffler change too, as it breathes a bit better, there’s a bump in the torque curve from 3-4000rpm with the muffler fitted.

I’m finished with the muffler at this stage; all hangers have been welded and all welds have been painted. I gave it a touch-less wash because black car life this could probably use some refinement, like traditional wash methods on lower third of car, wheels, door jambs etc., and investing in a proper leaf blower for drying. But that can wait. four years ago, on stock +10deg BTDC ignition timing I achieved 92hp @ 6275rpm, with the same air filter set up and 98 octane. I recalibrated my phone, and came up with a way to properly secure my phone whilst testing. This means that results will be much more accurate than before. that being said; prior results of 115/125hp can be confidently disregarded. I’ve deleted those results but i think they stated I would hit 7000+ rpm. But with a stock ecu 4AFE, limiter is at about 6600rpm. compared to without the muffler The peak figures are more or less the same as without the muffler, but I see that the torque and horsepower curves are much more smoother. It could be the muffler making a difference, but it also could be that my results weren’t as accurate in the prior test. I will set the ignition advance back to +10deg BTDC as I want to confirm 100% that it isn’t better than +12 - previous semi-reliable tests had me making 3-4hp more. After that, 95/98 and moderate timing changes until I have some det cans. hopefully next post I crack the 100hp mark* consistently cheers *at the crank

Prior to fitting my muffler, I went and re-purchased perfexpert and did some tests. First, on the stock ignition timing of +10deg btdc. I couldn’t test the HKS air filter vs stock filter as I’m guessing the latter got thrown out. I then advanced timing by what looked to be +2deg, remembering I do have 91 in the tank and don’t have dead cans or anything other than my dodgy hearing for knock detection I do suspect these are inflated, as I did about 6-7 runs on stock timing and deleted the obvious incorrect ones (60hp), (9000rpm), and 4 on +2, here’s my averages: I will recalibrate my phone before next tests are done. And figure out how best to mount my phone to get accurate results. So next tests will hopefully show which of the two figures are more accurate as well as any gains if any. got muffler fitted up, it’s a bit slanty but that’s due to the use of second hand bits, I may change it to proper 90 degree straightness but I think a bit of slant looks nice. A bit. it’s pretty loud for what it is, a whole 1.5” system to 2” from ‘axle-back’ but can confirm muffler does soften some of that bark from a muffler delete. https://i.imgur.com/DgK2Q8r.mp4

Unfortunately, I haven’t got much done on the Corolla. That daily was a Holden Astra that probably spent as much time in the shed as it did on the road. I got rid of it at a loss. I did however make my first carbon fibre part for it, quick parts to replace portions of broken timing belt cover: They worked, super strong if unsightly; i will need to get peel ply, vacuum bag, and associated consumables though for when I make my airbox, to make sure it’s done properly. Speaking of airbox, I completed it but the fitment is sub-standard; the cavity in which it sits is really complex, and it only kinda works. So I’m left with an expensive body filler box. I will attempt this again, but this time use layers of tape+aluminium tape+cardboard to clearance the bottom and fibreglass a mould. I most likely threw out the stock air box lower half, but won’t be surprised if I find it when I properly go through the stuff I have piled up(hoarding) But before that it’s time to get my aliex HKS muffler fitted, unfortunately this is version 1 made of scrap

Yes that’s correct and I also forgot to mention set air line pressures - say running 60psi stepped down to 25 at the gun is less ideal than starting with 60 at the compressor, 40 at the in line regulator and 25ish at the gun regulator. I can’t remember exact science but it helps keep air delivery even. Etc

I have no experience with iwata guns @lowlancer but probably lots on YouTube about that specific gun if you’re painting a whole car then 50l is suboptimal; you will be running around 20-27psi so you shouldn’t run out of air but the compressor will get hot and you will get moisture in your lines. In between coats drain your water traps. It may get so bad that you have to drain in between panels… it can be done but if budget allows get a second tank to go with… I find rubber hose to be better than the plastic-material hose, and you also want a wall mounted filter and one at the gun end at a minimum. After about 2-3m of line from the compressor fit your filter. I think I use 1/4” line too. I haven’t really liked my SCA filters I got filters from spraygunsdirect.co.uk hose from tool industrial and nitto fittings from SCA.