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About 87creepin

  • Birthday 02/27/1991

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  1. 87creepin


    Sweet @tortron was that mixed or not?
  2. 87creepin


    How much paint per panel on a small car? I'm just working out if I have enough to do a good job with blending adjacent panels. I'm mixing 1:1 metallic basecoat and it's the same colour over the same so shouldn't have issues with coverage etc. I have 1 litre of paint mixed up without thinners. And 5l of thinners (allow some for priming bumpers and roof +spot repairs) And I have 4 litres of clear.. Msds tells me 10% thinners so that's 400ml. Will it work?
  3. On a scale of 1 to 10, how bad of a problem is a manual transmission that crunches going into 3rd from 4th and 2nd from 3rd? Hasn't had fluid changed in a while but makes no other strange noises while driving.
  4. No 4afe+t love? Driving4answers is doing that on his YouTube channel, aiming for 300hp atw I think? Cheap and no one will cry if they're destroyed as opposed to a 4age
  5. Could also use a slide hammer with the glue on attachments. Works just like spot weld dent pulling.
  6. Didn't this forum used to have a guy who worked for zebra and used to tip OSGCs off about cars coming in? I know not PaP but would help in theory
  7. This is my first do-er upper 2000 Subaru Legacy Lancaster. Bought it from Wellington for $800, 160kms, automagic with the 2.5l ej25. Wof reg too, for a few months. Owner took it in for a warrant and decided it was time to move it on. He was unsure of when the timing belt was done. As for the wof issues - brake pedal shudder, brake rotors corroded, a rear brake pad with uneven wear, underbody surface rust, a few bulbs out. and an undisclosed CEL, but should be idle or ABS related. When I got it it was quite grotty, so gave it a quick clean and buff. Lots of crap in the paint Before and after: Think it turned out alright, considering how scarred up the bumpers are and how there are many small dents/scratches all over it. Borrowed Mrs' DSLR and took it to some relatively nice places on a nice day then got stuck in. This is my first timing belt job, lol. Got it all off, wasn't too much drama. I did have to macgyver up a crankshaft pulley holding tool though, after finding a Subaru one on the tard for $55. I grinded off the old 'dowels' and welded on some bolts in the correct bolt pattern. Plus found some rust, which i've since grinded back and treated. Will get bog later. Its weird, it looks like someone spot welded a high spot near it which i thought was some extreme rust bubbling. It;s the door stopper that sits right above the tail light. This car has sat under trees and tree shit has built up and allowed moisture to get in. I almost went down the rabbit hole of ordering quality AI$IN parts but fortunately just got an aisin waterpump and thermostat. Rest is Gates. Gates kit was $395 compared to the same product at Ripco for $800. By comparison I spent under $100 on my AE water pump, timing belt, tensioner and thermostat (GMB though, with $11 Gates belt). As for timing belt, I did check it out at a local supermarket carpark after leaving the sellers' house by removing a cover with three bolts on it. Based on the fact that there are GMB pulleys in there with a Dayco belt, NTN tensioner and GMB waterpump I would say that this timing belt has been done probably by the dealer who sold it to past owner at 80,000kms in 2008.
  8. AE101: first priority to be sold. I just need to get a wof, do the timing belt and water pump (297km) and I want to repaint the roof/bumpers because rust coming through and bumpers bit tatty. Then a recent acquisition I'll sell, more on this later. GF8: will sell after, a bit of a bigger job, but no doubt doable! SW20: an even bigger job, with some work needing to be outsourced to a panel shop. After I've sold the first two, I'll buy a tow wagon and trailer the projects and contents of my storage to a new storage unit local to me.
  9. I've decided to sell my cars and do something different. Left job, moved to a new town 5 hours away. My Mrs plan was to get a caravan and tow it with her Outlander. Finance issues and it being CVT put a quick end to that. Still did some work with it, thinking it would be our daily. Got a roof box from Wanganui that was worse in real life than the pics, plus smelt like dog and was unclean Halfords UK spec 470l approx. GHFWII. No way I'm putting that on a relatively clean car Not pictured but I also filled a crack with baking soda and super glue and then body filled it, plus rubber blocked+sanded it down. Also did the wheels: Also wiper Cowl, wipers, badges etc The end result Trademe "warewell" roof accessories, not keen on rhino rack/thule/etc prices
  10. Yep, I've hardwired mine in (they sell hardwire kits on the tard for about $30) and they come with cig lighter plugs.
  11. I ended up getting a Whistler GT-468GXi and it's saved me on alot of occasions. Only downside is you have to look out for the speed camera vans And the false alerts, but generally on state highways/open roads this isn't a problem. 10/10 would trade again
  12. You have to make those costumes and do a re-make of that ad now haha
  13. Anything in particular to look for when buying an older diesel with 250-300kms? It's a naturally aspirated 1998 Ford Transit And also best sites etc to get parts for euros?
  14. When you guys sell a car Assuming it's wof/reg, do you keep it insured for test drives etc? No one under 25 if you're not covered for that etc? I just cancelled my insurance on my former daily cos I'm not gonna be using it for a while. I'm thinking for safety I'll just re-insure it when I do list it for sale. And for the no wof/reg - Do you guys allow test drives on public roads?
  15. I've seen Nissans from same era rust on that upper front chassis rail and brace (from rail to lower a pillar if fitted). Mainly skylines
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