d.p.n.s

pulled the sump off ...found *gasket was fucked .. *sump was full of crap (petrol must have cleaned the motor as I cleaned the sump last time I had it apart). *motor is clean...oil pick up is clean . *sump.must have been full as there was what looks like airated oil up the front of the sump (not bowl) from where it was churned up by the crank... 4x800cc injectors may have filled the bores on a few occasions. *pulled a main cap (didn't get a pic ) pulled a couple of big end caps and they seem ok. also found oil in the bellhousing and you can see a stain on the steering shaft and oil on that side ... so I'm going to say 90% of it came from seal letting go at the rear and oil coming out the turbo drain. so on conclusion.....slap a new sump gasket in ,, a new rocker cover gasket and go again... lol got a few other things to do while it's out ..

took a couple of hours ...but the motor ame out.. not all that hard and mostly complete. there are a few things...leaking. *both sump and rocker gaskets are weeping ..(rear of the sump seems pretty bad)( left rear of the rocker cover is pretty bad.)...may be another reason for the sump gasket ....get to that later. I did put a full gasket set through it in October 2020 but it's sat dry till about a month ago. *the clamp on the oil return had had slipped down and so had the hose and kinked it a bit (not sure if it's enough to stop oil flowing..maybe another reason for that ...) also might need a restrictor in the oil feed line *oil on the block from the crank breather (may be another issue causing that ) .. * the main thing is I lost about a litre + on the floor..the oil cool and lines were full... and I only put 4l in.... and drained 5 out...that smelt a lot like fuel... so I think the 1st few days of fucking around with ecu setup ..it pumped so much fuel into it that it filled the sump... enough for the gasket to leak....the turbo drain to be blocked .. so replace a few gaskets and try again... there are a few things I wanted to do anyway and would have been easier the motor out... so 2 birds 1 stone.

had bits turn up for the intercooler piping.. just had to male a flange and weld the piping where I needed it from the turbo outlet. so apart from the speedo cable and hose for overflow tank that's everything that needs to go in the engine bay......its bloody busy in there now. was doing a wee bit of tuning today and getting the motor upto temp .. then when I shut it off and had lunch.. come back in the garage and found this so it looks like the motor is coming before tuning now.. I'm not sure if it's anything major or just some leaks... the motor is an unknown and didn't cost me much $$$$$ it was only to get it all set up and tuned .. put I'll pull it and see what's what and go from there.

well I cut all the bar 1 tooth of the cam sensor..changed trigger 2 sync mode to CAM PULSE WINDOW and then just set that to 50° and she's now running both DRIECT SPARK and SEQUENTIAL INJECTION. she basically a modern engine now with classic pinto oil leeks.. haha not much else I can do till I make intercooler piping (and our postal service dictates when I get the stuff)... but even at idle the air coming out of the turbo is pretty significant. also set the water pump temp to 70° .. engine temp got up to 68° water pump kicked in...temp got to 71° fan kicked in and bought temp down to 65° in no time.... so I'm happy with the coolant system. RX2 70mm thick radiator, 14" fan in shroud ,electric waterpimp... on a side note ... heater was awesome within minutes. cheers

pulled the crank and cam triggers off.. from what I've read and other have confirmed the 36-1 trigger is really hard to sync with a 36-1 crank trigger... so the car runs and even if I unplug the cam sensor it still runs as the injectors are being group fired.. but I want sequential so the answer is to have just 1 tooth on the cam trigger .... so I'm just going to cut another 34 teeth of yhe wheel and go with that.. once I have the rigger sorted and the intercooler piping (ordered today) in place then I'll be able to start tuning it properly... but she runs.... huge weight of my shoulders.

had a wee play today.. moved the trigger 2 wheel around a bit so it's not to close to the crank trigger missing tooth. put some new plugs in gapped to 25tho. change a setting on the injector fuel main from sequential to batch fired...(after reading up a bit more the 36-1 on trigger 2 is a bad fay of doing it.. it just needs to be 1 tooth and that will help it sync better) ..so ill pull the pulley off and cut all the teeth off apart from one and put it all back together and try and get sequential injection to work..... but hay in the mean time this happened

another picture less update sorry.. we had another play with things on Saturday.. wasn't getting anywhere again... we stopped went through it all again and again.... and then Simon said ...what about the plugs ? I told him they were new last weekend..so we thought fuck it ... I grabbed a set of old shitty plugs (pretty sure they came out of the motor in the old rusty wagon).... we slapped them in and she fired up.... only for a few seconds but she fired up... I can't tell you the feelings I had when she started..... just gave me instant hope that I had done things right ....was like a massive weight of my shoulders.... still heaps to do but I know now it will work.. massive thanks to @Stufor the basic tune to make it run.... cheers.

no it was getting late by the time we pulled a few things off to get a clear sight of the timing marks... the battary needed charging and I need to replace the air temp sensor..... and my brain needed a break..last day of my holiday time off today so... get back to work and get back into it on Saturday.. and thank fully it didn't matter what way around I wired the injectors as long as they there all the same. cheers

soooo one of our .embers STU offered to help with setting things up so I sent him the file and he sent it back with enough things in place to get the old girl to fire up...(once again thanks for that mate it is greatly appreciated). sooo a mate and my self had a play with things to see if we could get it to start on Saturday... The good news for me is the wiring is all good ( I did have all the relays running off switch 12v and the ecu was losing signal with laptop on hrad cranking .... so I had to run a wire from battary to ecu main power relay then turned on with key 12v). but we have been able to see things are working even managed to see that both triggers are doing as they should.. the bad news is I stuffed up the actual timing on the motor when I slapped the new cam belt on ..I wanted the motor to be at about 10° as ointos love to start there and I had put a nice clean whit mark on the pulley......but 2 things...I had then stupid set the crank timing mark to that white mark and not 0°.... now also as we found out (going through this last night ). I had also put that white mark on 12° and not 10° and that in turn had put the cam out about 6°... THAT IS ALL MY FUCK UP but when I set the base timing it seems I was bang on....its just the motor was way out...so that kinda had shit out of wack the basic tune a STU on old school had done for me is almost there... but there just seems to be something missing... it will cough and splutter .. so we are going to just start from scratch again and make sure it's all working and try again....(not sure when ..my brain needs a break) the old starter motor had to have a few smacks with the small heavy hammer.... the band new battles had a work out of turning a motor over for 2 days... so that the situation....... it is all new for me and I'm learning (and I want to ...to know how ut all works.....there's a reason why tuners charge so much to set shit up)... but the motor is 100% right (now lol ) and the ecu wiring is right (one back fire cased a fire in the inlet and caught the inlet temp sensor on fire lol).. cheers if you read all of that

link atom x. been in my shelf since may 2020 was going to use it on the 6 cylinder cortina...but this needs to be done 1st

small update .. *I have managed to set base timing.. and I belive also sync cam trigger. *I have fixed the TPS problem ( tried a few things in the pc link setup...but ended up just swapping 12v and sensore ground over). I think this may be my limit and were I'm going to need help setting up maps and trying to fire her up.... so ill have a chat to my mate tonight and see if he can talk me through it or even come and help me.. but she's closer than see was 3days ago. cheers

cheers Sam. I've git a few mates to ask questions to.

yeah this is a link ecu.. I just swapped 12v and signal ground over and then setup again and now it's perfect.. cheers tho

well my brain hurts.... got the unlock code and didn't do much yesterday as I got roped into the decorating that's going on in my daughter's bedroom... so that was annoying . I did watch a few more YouTube videos on setting up the ecu last night and had a go today for a few hours.. I down loaded the new updates and saved it there and then started a new setup and I'm saving that as testing.. (so if I fuck things up I can just go back and load the one saved after update.). So I have managed to .. *setup and test the coils (they work). *setup and test the injectors (they work. *set up and test boost controller..(it works but havnt set any figures in there yet). *setup and test shift light (same as above works but no extra figures added. *setup and test ISCV (works but havnt set any think els up with that). *set and and tested TPS and MAP sensors. tried to calibrate them but both came back with a fault code ... did some searching and most common answer with map sensor is its broken.... so I left it and had a look at TPS (throttle position) and when I was moving it the values on the MAP sensor where changing ..now the MAP and TPS where allready marked out in the loom with the 3 wires needed for them each and a tag at the end starting what ut was for and what wire was what... tours out they git the tags wrong so I just swapped them over on pc link and then ran and other calibration on the MAP and ut came as fine .. so cleared that fault code.. Then I tried the TPS and set that up but the values are the wrong way around for some reason ... wide open is low voltage and closed is hig voltage. .. (not sure if it will work that way around or not will look more into it tonight.). *set up fuel pump aswell and started looking at cutting up triggers... but thats where I left it.. think for tring to set base timing I might pull the plugs out as well so no compression so it should turn over easier as it's still old motor old starter motor hard cranking.. but yes my brain hurts..

time to learn something new