d.p.n.s

What about glow plugs... just 12v?

Nope I'm not putting it in till I've heard it run. I don't want to run it long I just want to make sure I've out it all together. Then once I'm happy ....then it can go in the van.

Thanks man.

Ok Whats needed to start the ld28 on the engine stand .. Just want to see if it runs. *Flex plate is on *And can bolt a starter motor to it.and add power to the starter *can run a hose from a bottle of diesel to pump What else do I need to do? Cheers

Probably been sitting for ever

Yeah I understand

Ahh that make sence

@JustHarry #11was a small pipe on the same fitting as the big vaccume hose...so I'm presuming small vaccume pipe for say booooooooooost gauge

Fucking champion mate. Thats very much appreciated

Got a few things done on the old LD28. *thermostat housing on .. drilled out And tapped for *temp gauge and them sensor to turn on and off Fan Oil gallery T in (small one) so I could get the new oil pressure sensor in and turbo oil feed git the oil filter and housing on with new water lines and clamps Starting to come together.... now I took a bunch of photos of things when i.pelled the motor out of the rover and lost of them.. soooooo.... let play *WHAT THE FUCK IS THIS *OR WHERE THE FUCK DOES THIS GO 1.i take it this is the main fuel in 2. Where does this go 3. Where does this go and what is it 4. What is this......and what do I do with it... (pretty sure Harry told me..I forgot though) 5.is this where I adjust the amount of fuel 7. This is oil in right 8. And this is drain back to the block 9.where the fuck does this go and I'm pressuring its water? 10. Does ut go here?.. if not ..where the fuck does this go.⁸ 11. Now where does this go 12. now what does this do. And the motor out of the rover didn't have one Thanks for any help... To late to mention i know nothing about these motors.

I do play with pinto stuff as well. And this setup if you havnt read some old posts is a setup I qas making for my nephews mk5 before we decided efi and turbo is much better... the process the bits were all siting around and I would like to see if it worked.. ....so I bought the bits off him. I had the 50+ years old carbs and the supercharger vapour blasted . Had a mate 3d print me a manifold to bolt 2 SU HS6 carbs from a p5b rover to the toyota sc14.... once we had it finalized we sent it off to a company in aussie to be made out or appropriate material that isolates the carbs from the SC and is fuel,oil,heat resistant. Swapped a smaller pulley on (thanks again @BlownCorona for that) And a pulley the right size i got at pick a part bolted to a sierra crank pulley and a 6pk belt. I do have a carb rebuild kit turning up this week hopefully... Side entry dizzy cap The cool weeee manifold I jave a test bed I've made to run a pinto on (as I say I enjoy playing with them) so ill be able toasleep if I can get it all running... It woild only ever fit in a mk3 4 5 cortina or rat rod... so i might just sell it all once working or just keep it as an ornament 😆.

Built a setup for $35. See if it even works when I get around to building the rest of the motor 😆

So this car is on the back burner now while I work out all the upgrades I want to do before cert. I pulled the motor out and stripped it all down (the long block is going to be a test motor for me now)...the rest of the parts filled the boot 😆 Some of the big upgrades planned are. *fully built motor ( forged rods,cossy pistons ,oil squirters, big valve and fully ported head ,kenneally cams turbo cam ,evo 9 turbo. *ecu upgrades (going maxxecu this time around). 1 dash for everything *bigger fuel tank *better front brakes *transmission upgrades (something I've been dreaming of for a year or so now.....just need to get my grubby little hands on one) *and DBW. The DBW was something I've been thinking about for a while now and I run nissan GTIR ITBs on this motor and I wanted to keep them...(pain in the arse to tune....but love the response). DBW ITB actuators are bloody expensive even 2nd hand BMW ones... and I'm not a cheap cunt but I also don't have shit loads of disposable income......so I have a tendency to just try and make shit work. ..and I have my time to try and figure it out So I wondered if I could just convert an actual DBW throttle to control them. I looked at so many (different motors,motor orientation, size of the motor, size of the throttle body, blue location... Ended up going for a 2nd hand BMW 3 series one. $35 So I have a complete GTIR inlet that I have been running and a couple of sets of parts...including a set I used to mock the inlet up on the pinto in the 1st place ....thats didn't have the top throttle linkage where the accelerator cable goes to (percent for what I'm about to do) So 1st thing was to cut the IAC setup of the ITBs (for room na dthe DBW will now do IAC )and cut the throttle body up aswel. I also cut a section out of the plenbase side of the inlet manifold so I can run a arm through there Then all I did was cut a 4mm plate of steel and bolt it to some. Holes on the underside of the inlet... Then welded some captive studs for the throttle body. Found 2 arms the same size to link the 2 sets of of ITBs together with the actuator arm (so the move both together) ..I also left the full open stop on one end (with the return spring) and the full closed atop on the other end.. I then used an arm the same size as the other 2 and drilled it to fit the TB shaft and welded it where I needed it . Was a pain in the ass to make sure it cleared oil cooler,engine mount,block breather) and I could get to the plug. Butall fits and gets full open and full closed. Bloody happy with that.... $35 DBW ITs.... hopefully it works 😆

Oh really. Had it set to 12psi on my 2.0 pinto (was still being tuned and standrd motor). Bug would start to build boost pretty low down and that was good

I have seen them and I would just prefer to lose the accelerator cable all together.. And there's a prius one that could be made to work on a factory pedal