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Mr.Mk1

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Mr.Mk1 last won the day on July 6 2014

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About Mr.Mk1

  • Birthday 21/11/1987

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  1. More scrappy part-finished hood frame shiz.
  2. Any fucking wonder they rust. Scraping paint off the hood frame with the edge of my new patch and fingernail, not a speck of primer
  3. It’s still progress even if it’s to cold to do physical work on it right? Ah shit, wet mangled box phew not rooted! Some damage to the tulip/deck filler/Dutchman panel but easy fix. even included a bonus fancy Honda trans mount with an electrical sensor some poor sap will be waiting for on a 2day service! This only took a week to arrive!
  4. I picked up some gaskets, some were on clearance! Also got hub seals and assembled the new discs & new wheel bearings. gave some cheap ‘chrome’ paint a try, nowhere near where it should be, but I’m ok with it as is. These are arm rest bases and were just painted silver a few months back.
  5. Two nites in a row I went and looked at it and just didn’t know where to start. There’s plenty of pretty complex shapes and curves to tackle. Today I bit my lip and sunk the grinder into it! None of this really needs to be finished too flash unless it’s an edge or close to the skin. The grey side isn’t seen at all. Can’t imagine the car will have the bonnet attached at repair cert time either. Then mint.16 came and got my Honda monkey bike going after over a year so that slowed progression a bit, but yay!
  6. I know what I’m doing also, even paint is as effective as any converter. You need air and moisture for rust. Seal it out
  7. Today was the warmest day we’ve had in a while so I rushed home and got a few coats of etch on
  8. Well fertan was cool. I knocked the top off with a wire wheel on the drill. Applied the fertan. It’s just like deck stain, very loose and dark. It comes in a wee bottle with a spray/squirt gun like household cleaner. Has a nice spray and really hammers it on well. it’s not there to ask how your day was, it’s ready to fuck. If it isn’t a textured/pitted surface it wanted to run off. the instructions said let it sit for about an hour and dampen with water (yeah aye, water and rust) but since I applied it as it was getting dark I figured the next best thing was leave it on the drive for a nice even layer of moisture from the air. ah shit it was -2 when I got up, lol. Frost is even so it’s still a win. Once it dried it was kicking off a blue powder. I was instructed to leave it 24 hours before painting, 48 if it’s cold..but can wait 6 months before paint.. that’s a ballsy claim! The last step is to remove the purple dust with a damp rag and your done. Your left with a black part, rock on. I’ll etch prime with 2K this week weather permitting.
  9. It’s about 1mm in sheet metal,1.5 bracing and 2+ In the rails. It’s way nicer to weld than Japanese stuff for sure! Bit harder to manipulate though. I’m practically out of thicker sheet stock so fucking around with the hood is good timing
  10. It certainly the best course of action. im super fucked if anything happens to rare parts when farming out, it’s not worth the risk for me. And a repair vs resto scenario I have to stick to.
  11. strip disc exposed the soft spots.. I need more dremel cutting wheels before attempting this one, as used last one the other day and forget to order during the day I lied, it wasn’t just the nose that rusted. for fox skates! Hate precision bonnet jobs. She’s had a wire wheel back and 2 coats of Brunox. I thought a round hole would be less likely to distort so used the step drill to open them up to fresh steel and zapped one weld at a time with a long cool down period in between. it worked, the important side is pretty flush and won’t need much aftercare. The brunox was a test, has a good name but haven’t used it before now. It’s all good, but doesn’t seem to go far and isn’t cheap. I’ve ordered some Fertan brand stuff to have a hoon on this time round, the inner of frame will be a great test for it. I got some front wheel bearings and 2L of 3M underbody Schutz for later on too. Stay tuned homos
  12. Well that was never going to fix itself was it.. rust bomb with a lit fuse! Remember I said I spent ages with air and vacuum yesterday getting scale out? Missed a bit.. Thankfully the skin is 95% mint, it’s just the very front ‘nose’ section that’s let go. Plenty of hours in the frame though. I’ll clean it up and rust kill it and paint it then put the skin back on before I repair it so it doesn’t get out of shape.
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