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87creepin

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Everything posted by 87creepin

  1. A totally random Q, Would a 2J fit in a Carina/Corona of this generation without too much fettling? I can’t find any info on the inter webs. I see a Carina rolling body for sale, Altezza Gita/Lexus G300/Aristos have 2Js, and it’s got Me daydreaming.
  2. Here’s the daytime running lights I’ll be fitting: same as what I had before, but this time I’ll spray some 2k clear on them to keep them neat. I like them because I want that mouth breather who’s still half asleep scrolling through tiktok to see me at a roundabout. the major challenge I had was that they have three wires. Red : DRL; Yellow : Indicator, Black : Ground. I previously had given up trying to make the indicators work, and just settled for this method of wiring, courtesy of my good mate and former president of the MR2 nz owners club, Charlie: however for those that like a little more pizzazz, after much head scratching and Coke Zero, I’ve worked it out - a simple 5 pin relay: the electromagnet is controlled by the headlight switch. The relay can be either normally open or closed; for the 87 open pin, I’ve connected a 12v positive that’s only hot from when ignition is on, the red wire from the DRL is spliced into that. The ground is then hooked to the 30 pin, which has the black wire from the DRL spliced into that. The 87a closed pin is left vacant. I’ll have a proper diagram up soon when the headlights are flicked on, the relay is activated and the DRLs no longer work. the indicators just get power from an indicator on their side, and use the same ground as above. shine bright like a diamond With the indicator on and drls on: I was a little frustrated when i saw this, but upon closer inspection, all indicator leds flash, it’s just some led wizardry that it flashes the white leds on and off With headlights on: should be 100% road legal, as wof virms state maximum 2 front pairs of indicators, and the corner ones are more side than front so should be legit did a bit of test fitting just to see where every wire would go, and how the harness might look: shouldn’t be too hard, just a whole lot of planning, fitting etc, I’ll make the indicator harness longer than needed. Removing the bumper should not pull on the wires too much.
  3. I’m taking a brief break from paint while I save/do other jobs. The time away from prep and paint has made me question my decision of painting this KA4 dark blue. I’ve decided on a colour scheme, but if anyone has any awesome suggestions, fire away. I had a whole lot of wiring mess in my kick panel. reverse/dash cam, radar detector, random other wires not doing anything, a few years ago I did a pretty hasty job, not as bad as a twist and tape, but could be better. went from this to this: mind the multicoloured heat shrink, aliex was having a deal. I’ll know for next time to buy only red and black kits. anywho plugged it all in and a big puff of smoke from my ground. after a bit of head scratching and replacing a fuse I realised where it was shorting out. I hardwired the dash cam in and ripped the plastic housing off the plug. After a bit of rectifying and tape it now works sweet. had most of it taped up and tucked away a bit better, I use narva pvc tape, but just seen they do a tape cloth but $4 per roll vs $16.
  4. Working with Chinese electronic components suck, partly due to the bad instructions, and I’m really still a beginner when it comes to electronic stuff. So I’ll just get something that’ll work off the shelf.
  5. Cheers, This crusty trailer isn’t far from me, but reckon I might give it a miss. Not because it has hardly any lights, but the suspension looks suss. There’s others a few hours away that have leaf springs and for not much more.
  6. If I buy a trailer that’s had its license plates lost, do I need to re-register it? What’s the bureaucracy costs involved with that? I’ll get it up to wof standards, shouldn’t be too much drama and is it cheep to insure a trailer? I’ve read the Nzta pages but you know they’re not very helpful.
  7. speed science do a Grams Performance 4.9 kit for $446, I was interested as it seems quality enough without being too expensive.
  8. I had a $23 keyless entry kit laying about, and the key fob looks os enough, so went about installing it wow yuck, not sure who did this, super easy install, door lock, unlock runs off the oem switch, indicators off steering stalk, and I’ve installed a switch in the alarm horn positive wire for when it’s not needed disarming/arming. Unfortunately it is just keyless entry. I’ve been messing about with adding a relay that sounds the horns if someone attempts to start the car without disarming the alarm first, but the diagram I’ve seen suggests it requires constant ground when armed. My testing shows the circuit is only momentarily grounded when armed/disarmed. so it’s not compatible/I don’t wanna hack up starter wire and will eventually install a mongoose alarm. kick panel: I’m still in the process of tidying this up, ground wires from the keyless entry module, amplifier rca’s, dashcam, radar detector, a lot of it is just extra length but when I installed these I didn’t have a good crimp tool nor the butt connectors. Easy to see why manufacturers started using mini fuses. also I tried to remove my steering wheel to remove the makeshift spacer I had in there to take measurements. I ended up needing to buy a stupid steering wheel puller and bending my Ali steering wheel. so to those who warned me against buying a fake momo, you guys were right, and now I will advise others to steer clear of fake steering wheels. Old real momo wheel from my mr2 fitted, until I have enough to buy the real version of my knockoff:
  9. Toyota built a reputation for reliability partly by being simple and using quality parts. How to ruin that? add extra complexity, with Chinese stuff! I had fitted some knock off hella super tone horns a few years ago. They’re good in that they’re very loud, for when idiots don’t give way at roundabouts. I didn’t wire them in neatly before. Tidied up the horns, unfortunately didn’t have any black heat shrink in the right size Won’t be visible though Removed wheel well cover and managed to poke the wire through using a long grabby tool Fitted some conduit aka split tubing and cable tied it to the oem harness that runs under the upper radiator support.
  10. The paint has to wait a couple of weeks, so while I wait and save money, I’ll be tackling other small jobs First I tried to fix my scratched to hell drivers window: buffing, with coarse compounds/pads, and wet sanding with any grit did not work. So the only option is to get one on my next pick a part trip. Will also get a new outside weatherstrip as I’m guessing mine had a whole lot of crap in it. next up was my oil pressure sensor connector. The connector had broke, so I left it unplugged. I forgot about it when I had taken it for a spin round the yard, panicked and made something temporary: got a temporary replacement off AliExpress, will also get an oem one on next wreckers
  11. I watched a video where a guy talks about old 4 bolt flange waste gates sounding much nicer than modern v band flange waste gates. this in theory wouldn’t be something easily heard amongst road cars as screamer pipes are illegal right?
  12. 87creepin

    PAINT THREAD

    A light scuff with a fine/superfine scuff pad might work.
  13. I think with a porta power, factory chassis measurements and perhaps a few spare panel cuts it could be done. it’s a shame that this happened not long after you had purchased it. =(
  14. Finally got round to fixing the exhaust leak on my Outback. I use flux core, I know it’s bad, but I’m a beginner and outside of this I’ve only done a few patch repairs and a few classes on mig. but this serves as important practice with the welder and grinder as I’m definitely gonna fab something up for my 4AFE to breathe a bit easier. bird poop it on. I found it hard with the thin old dirty metal. grinder and paint make me the welder I ain’t This got chopped end result Even the muffler was rusty near where the tip joins it, but it wasn’t a leak, just an outer skin. Upon first drive it sounded a bit too raspy poos but must have done a thing cos it came right after a minute or two of driving. I also might have chopped the rear bit 10-15mm too short as it touches the rear subframe. May have to massage it with a hammer.
  15. I’m not sure if it shows up in pics but I had a bit of drama with the trade me special sanding discs I have. they literally clog up, then drag the hard bits of paint and redistribute it over the sanded surface. Good thing I had found some Norton 320s I purchased from SCA but forgot about. they’re decent, as soon as I ditch the 125mm sander for a 150mm I’ll move to quality abrasives Once that was done I filled any pinholes with fine filler. Mind my mess, I’ve lost my thin knife applicator Buzz it down Then wet sanded it with 400+block and paid attention to the edges. After that scuffed the primed panel edges with a red scotch pad and scuff paste, and the blending bits with a grey fine pad the fine pad is used as it’s finer (duh) and creates less scratches for the panels that are receiving clear coat only. If I were to use the coarser pads they would make scratches that would show in the clear. got this outer bit of the sill too as this shows Unfortunately cut through in some areas, my applied paint was so thin, but the paint beneath it was thin too. Makes sense as I got advice from the wrong guy who has like 30 more years experience than me, and the original paint was so faded it was starting to rust in places. Where it’s super small and in a place to be cleared, I’ll touch it up with a small brush. Other places will be re-done. Noticed this mistake on the drivers door I had polished. Previously mentioned guy told me he could paint a car with a litre of paint. I shouldn’t have believed him as I knew better. So now I’ll have to paint the whole rear door, paint the lower bit of this one and edge on b pillar side and blend it out. Hosed and wiped all the dust off, making sure to get in the wheel arches and get out 29 years worth of road crap did a bit of daydreaming, about intercoolers, more low, lips and body kits
  16. Jacked it up to save my old back Guide coated, no pic but imagine orange dust all over, 240 wet, rinse off, then dry, guide coat again and 320 DA.
  17. Also +1 for max… rods. A YouTuber I watch a bit of Driving4Answers has used maxpeedingrods in his 4AF+TE build and has done a detailed video on why they’re good enough etc. but yeah if they were good enough I’m sure they’d be sold here by King Springs
  18. What’s the affordable go-to for 5x114.3 and a big-ish brake upgrade nowadays? must be a crashed mid 2000s Subaru wrx sti, Turners has one currently. are there any cheap-ish Toyotas that came with big brakes and 5x114.3?
  19. 87creepin

    PAINT THREAD

    Where do you guys get gun wash from, and is it cheaper/better than thinners for cleaning out your guns? also I don’t have a gun wash machine soo would an old steel pot suffice? I currently just clean parts off in a mixing cup but reckon the paint pots need a good soak. About paint pots, do any of you use the disposable type? I’m thinking about getting these https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product/sagola-dpc400-paint-cup-kit-400ml-different-grades-available-ptdpc-400-125-ptdpc-400-190/ as they’re name brand and cheapest on that website. Aliex do them too but it’s always a risk with them.
  20. These have 14-16mm, would need a nut and brass. There might be a more robust metal material one in there too
  21. That would work. That and some rtv. Just put it underneath/inconspicuous angle to not let anyone see said grossness. i have a map sensor I just drilled a small hole for an interference fit and rtv’d and it’s worked fine.
  22. Impressive that you got the flat deck off with 3 people. Those things are heavy af
  23. The prep continues, I find more mistakes, and keep preppin there’s a photo of the aforementioned g6, lightly wet sanded Started with my LHF guard. I put the paint on too thin here and rubbed through. id have rather caught it at this stage, rather than be buffing/polishing super thin clear that won’t last against the UV rays I had runs of doom on this side, this would’ve worked had I put more coats on. Buzzed the doors and front guard down with 240, and remembered to get the door jambs this time Masked and taped up Unfortunately I added thinners when I was supposed to be adding hardener - i managed to save it by adding the right amount of hardener and a bit of primer until it was at the right consistency. Then when painting some numpty didn’t clean off the gun properly. Got there in the end though without too many runs I’m going to block the primed panels with 240 for a super flat finish and then go over with 320 DA and 400 wet. We actually used this method on a super stock purple S13 owned by an elderly gent at the shop I worked at and it came out mint. and so it begins! except my sandpaper sucks dry so I’m using 240 wet. It’s more laborious.
  24. If one were to purchase “street-friendly” semi slicks like the advan ad08r, wouldn’t their grip be quite bad because semi slicks are supposed to be warmed up and then they perform well? and they last for a few heat cycles right?
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