BobbyBreeze

Thanks Clint! I will 3d scan the floorpan and CAD up the proposed rails for design approval.

I want to lift the chassis rails above the floorpan in my FairladyZ (260Z) for some more ground clearance. Basic thinking was get a new top-hat section folded and cut to fit the floorpan above the original ones, plug weld them in then remove the old ones at the floorpan, probably capping with some 3mm to give a bit of impact protection. At the front the new rail would go through the floorpan and fish-plate into the sides of the old rail, with a gusset to the castor arm mount. Any issue doing this as long as I can prove the new rail is stiffer than the old one? They are officially classed as floor stiffeners as they finish behind the seats and are only ~30mm deep.

Dang all those photos gone. Anyway, still have this. In the last 10 years I put some widened Sprite steels on it with 155/65s and installed my 600lb competition springs. Big plans awaiting heart transplant but at least it looks pretty in the garage now.

She's home. @nick_m has done a fantastic job of the fab work.

I can investment cast them for you Joe if you'd like. Totally doable yourself, just be prepared to spend a load of time on it and have some failures along the way. I'm still screwing up the odd casting and I've been doing it for 7 years now. Feel free to hit me up if you want any advice.

I'd go A series turbo, and spend the $ you were going to spend on the Stanza parts car on tune up parts. Stanza stuff does fit but there are some minor differences between bodyshells. The L16 is a stout engine and 150hp turbo is childs play for one, however 150hp from an A series is also childs play. A series is definitely more in character with a Sunny, Ls can be a bit slouchy to get humming along nicely unless they are worked properly. Ask @RUNAMUCK about that. I have a 310 manual pedal box here if you want one to convert. Actually a 56a as well. 56a and H150 will probably take 150hp if you are nice to it and don't run big tyres / launches. Do yourself a favour and use an A15. They aren't too hard to find in C20/C22 Vanettes still. Keep an eye on Pickapart. Should be able to get one for around $500. EDIT.. just noticed you are in Aus. Ignore the NZ spec comments

Nick has done a great job. I think we struck a good balance between strength and weight.

Seat mounts in, cage is all tacked up ready for dropping down and welding.

I do have parts to build a short stroke L16 so that is a possibility down the line too.

Thanks Dave, I'm stoked it is getting love too! Engine plans haven't really changed, club spec A15 on R1 carbs to get me going for now. Will bin the R1s for flatslides for the next engine which will be a bit hotter. Got quite a few parts I'd like to cast for it so looking forward to some developments.

Only 13 years later Andy!

Turrets all welded in now, looking great.

First up, turrets. Using some Group 4 Escort ones, though Nick has had to do quite a bit of work to get them to fit due to my required belly scraping ride height.

Off to MFS for some goodies!

Legend thanks Clint!

Legality of side-exit exhausts? LVVTA guidelines say the exhaust can't terminate underneath the passenger compartment. Does this mean as long as the exit is outside the sill pinch weld then its fine? I had thought I had read somewhere that it has to be rearward of opening windows but can't see that anywhere now I look.

They run super wide angle 'shower' injectors in this position just FYI.

Such a sweet video! Just goes to show you its not a super cut and dry thing for huge gains. Roman has had the same sort of results I believe. Did you play with injector timing much?

Jamie with the Ingear Starlet picked up decent gains going to outboards only and it idles & runs well with great throttle response (Atlantic 4AGE). Be interesting to see what fuel pressure and injectors he is running. I get the feeling for them to work well at lower airspeeds you need higher fuel pressure and a wide cone spray pattern on a modern injector for maximum atomisation. I can imagine them being a pain to tune as well, as injector timing will have to vary throughout the whole map depending on airspeed and reversion.

I'd say around 16-17" Hg with a mild cam. Generally stock nanna engines are ~20" Hg, Hot street engines 13-14" and full race 10". Any chance you have an intake leak anywhere?

Ford kent BMC have fancy steel cams!

Well I guess I respectfully disagree there. Good to know what their take on it is though...

Yeah that looks quite bad. Definitely shouldn't have been let out the door imo. Might be okay but I personally probably wouldn't run it.

They should be smooth, shiny almost polished finish off the grinder, like ~15RA surface roughness. If they are rough then they will eat the lifter for sure. Have you got any photos? Sounds like maybe the grinder operator didn't do a very nice finishing dress on the wheel.