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Guypie

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  1. I second this movement, neatsfoot oil is excellent. Also, when we ordered it last we got it under @hampie's name and they kept sending saddlery warehouse advertising stuff to her. Got to tease her about being a horse lady whenever it turned up til we moved house.
  2. my 2c - for the home handyman type stuff straight co2 is the best. Downsides: -It has its limitations in that it wont spray transfer, most little welders probably won't get there anyway. -about 5-10% more splatter (in my limited experience) -Probably other things, I'm not an expert Upsides: -owner bottles in the form of fire extinguisher bottles are cheap, usually around the $300 mark full. -it stores as a liquid unlike argoshield mixes. this means that you fit a whole lot more in the bottle. This is a massive upside in my book, when I want to run mig I want it to be cheap. -Last fill I got was at gaspro, cost $45, a lot better than the $130 swappa bottles for argosheild. The chap there said its $10 per kg, its a 5kg cylinder but it was a bit too warm to get the whole 5kg in one hit that day. -Apparently runs a bit hotter than argosheild mixes would for the same amperage on short circuit mig. For little machines this might be handy. In saying that I haven't had any issues welding panel steel either so not an issue for rust repairs. I have put a good number of hours on the mig over the last few years, built a couple of trailers and lots of random crap with co2 and haven't had any cracks/breakages or weld related issues. I guess the caveat is that I also have a tig so if I want a fancy weld I can use the tig but generally I use mig for most fabrication type things. Also, I'm just a guy in a shed sticking stuff together for fun so I don't really know what I'm talking about hahaha.
  3. Not sure about the FB but on the F series with a little bit of work you can fit MG b gt front hubs. Combined with lowering springs it corrects the camber due to the angle of the spindle and adds extra low cause the spindle is higher on the hub. win win! Edit: Scrap that got confused between a couple of old cars I used to have, that was a morris oxford. duh.
  4. It's done! I found myself rooting for this particular colour on the poll and figured that was a strong indicator it was the right colour. Anodised purple accents for maximum 90's mtb style points. Will probably get some purple valve caps just to finish it off. On my computer the images look a bit more blue than the bike does in real life, probably because auto white balance on the camera or something. Side sharn, my first mountain bike was a 1995 marin rocky ridge. It was a chrome plated ali frame and when I got it second hand it had a purple anodised so it feels a bit like a throwback to that. I still have the frame hanging in one of my sheds, it has cracks in the headtube. Probably becuase of all the horrendous abuse I gave it. The bars are some aliexpress mx/pitbike bars that may or may not stay, they are way too flexy without the cross brace and the fasteners/holes for the cross brace are a bit sloppy so you can feel a bit of a clunk in the bars when you pull/push on them that is reminiscent of a loose headset. I could probably turn up some little bushings but I'm undecided. The paint is PPG deltron DG and it is by far the nicest paint to apply that I have ever used. So easy to tell when you have the right amount applied and not a single sag or run on the bike. Theres a couple of less than perfect spots but nothing anyone will notice. I put on some braap wrap to keep it tidy, would recommend so far in terms of application, went on really easily. Currently has the old tyre tube on the chain stay jobbie for protection from chain slap, will probably get some vhs tape when it comes back in stock. Now all I need to do is go get it dirty!
  5. Yeah the chain was pretty low and the wheels rolled over it luckily!
  6. Ride stats: Here's a picture of the new bike next to Heather's Ragley on the bike carriers, quite cool to see the comparison
  7. I was thinking about how this bike might compare to @yoeddynz's bike and managed to find this sales catalogue for the 1990 fat chance range: https://www.mtb-kataloge.de/Bikekataloge/PDF/Fat_Chance/1990.pdf It lists a 71 degree head tube angle, 1.5" fork offset. If anyone is interested in trail measurements theres a very nice calculator here: http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/trailcalc.php the yo eddy works out to 79mm of trail. That must make for a very lively ride! It also lists the fork weight as 1lb 12oz, which in non retard units is 793 grams. My fork weighs 1200g~ish so there must be something to the whole butting thing, very impressive! Though mine easily clears a 29" wheel and has clearance for a 4" tyre so theres probably a bit of weight there too. Anyways, after my inaugural ride and celebration beersies @hampie came home from work and I was still fizzing to ride my bike more. So we popped into town with some lights to ride around Hamilton gardens and for a little jaunt down the river trails. We started out at the south end and rode up to the cemetery and went for a little hill bomb down the grass into the gardens carpark. So me being the speedy speedster I was out in front and @hampie was following me down the hill, it was twilight at this point. So coming up to the carpark there are bollards around so I pick a gap just as I get in torch range I notice a chain between the bollards... uh oh, no time to even bunnyhop, just gotta plow on through! I stayed on the bike, but the chainring did not fare so well! The chain between the bollards must have been poorly attached because it came detached on one end clearing the way for @hampie to sail through uneventfully, phew! So in order to limp back home we found a convenient non-marring anvil (top of a wooden bollard) and large conical orange mallet (roadcone) and bashed the chainring around until it was somewhat rideable and limped back to the car. No damage to the frame, not even a scratch in the paint! Many lols were had at the time. Anyway, next day I changed the chainring as I had a 32 tooth one in my parts bin and after a bit of fettling we went out for another ride. This time we started from Kaniwhaniwha and did a road/gravel loop 40km which encompassed the old road to raglan (old mountain road) through Waitetuna and back to kaniwhaniwha. We are slowly upping our mileage because early next year we are planing on doing the Kopiko Aotearoa which is 1100km from cape Egmont lighthouse to East cape lighthouse and we want to average 100km per day. Some highlights from the loop: This is a tank trap that was put in during world war 2 as this was at the time the only road through from the west coast to Hamilton and they thought that the Japanese army might invade from that direction. And this is the top of the hill on Waitetuna valley road. I spent the entire climb up whistling little wing to myself and zoning out. You can see the wind farm on the hill behind which is the same one visible from Te Uku on the way to Raglan.
  8. So I chucked the bike on the roof of the trusty ol' honda (with matching primer!) and took off to the local mtb trails (for yarns about the crappy honda click below) I figured I would start on something pretty chill to get the feel for things so I went on Apprentice, a nice grade 2 that gently winds down the mountain. The first thing I notice is that the brakes are terrible, underpowered and needing bedding in so I had to adjust my braking distances to suit. But after I got used to that and started flowing I found that the bike handles fantastically! it loves to dart into the corner but doesn't feel skittish. I think this is a product of a long wheelbase for a rigid bike (1195mm) giving it stability but the 65mm offset fork reducing the mechanical trail. As a point of reference I figured out that my full suspension 29er trail bike has just under 100mm of mechanical trail, but the Pi bike has about 89mm. It feels a little odd in a carpark test but on trail it just works. I did have some misgivings about the long chain stays, wondering if they were going to be an issue/make the ride boring. Turns out its not a problem, they do make it harder to wheelie and I can't manual it (I can manual my full sus bike but haven't really managed it on other bikes for some reason. I think a bit more practice is needed). But when you get it up on a wheelie, it wants to stay there and I think it would be the same with manuals. On trail I think it it probably not so much of a is it better or worse having long/short stays but a personal preference. It isn't what makes the ride thats for sure, it just feels like you have a bit less leverage over the rear wheel if you are chucking the rear end into a slippery berm. After taking it down Apprentice for a shakedown run I climbed back up and took a brave pill and went down the jump trail to see if I was going to have a catastrophic failure of the fork. The bike jumps nicely, I didn't clear as many jumps as I usually do as I wanted to be conservative with my speed in the event of a breakage, but casing a jump is usually harder on the landing than clearing so you could say it was a torture test. Some of the rutted out sections were fairly horrific on the rigid, but all in all it was awesome, and I am not writing this from a hospital be with a severe concussion. In terms of climbing, it climbs as well as the next bike, the 2.8" tyres are nice on the bumpy track up Pirongia. I would probably go a degree or 2 steeper on the seat tube angle next time around, because then I could get away with a slightly longer reach/front centre with the same distance from saddle to handlebars. Anyways After this I went home for a beersie in the sun. I am absolutely stoked on how well this bike rides. I made some odd design choices cause I don't see the point in making something that could just be bought off the shelf and I am really glad to see that they all came together to make a great ride. Oh, and I measured the wheelbase again after the ride, it was the same. Woo, no bent forks!
  9. I put couple of coats of 2k primer on the frame (no colour coat yet) and after looking at it sitting in the corner of the lounge for the working week dreaming and pretending to ride it much to the amusement of @hampie, Friday came around. I don't work Fridays so I was free for the day, so I took stock of what I needed to get the bike all together and all that was left was a length of shift cable. So I made a click and collect order and popped down to Te Awamutu and came back and got everything all assembled. Sorry pics are fuzzy, crappy cellphone life. The drivetrain is a deore 11 speed, it's actually destined for a different bike but for now it can go on this one. There are some issues around shifting I think partially due to the B screw end point pawl on the hanger being too far to the rear of the bike. I have shortened it a bit since my first ride and it has improved a bit, I think I probably need to check the hanger alignment again as well. Also, there's a weird combination of boost standards with a 68mm bb shell so I think the chain line needs a bit of attention. In the next exciting instalment: how does it ride?
  10. Yeah I get what you mean like a bmx fork, axle on the front and the legs on the steering axis. I did it this way because I have a lathe and that makes round things easy to make hahaha. So the dropout is easy to interface with the tube in a strong way. as to how it will fare on trail... let's just say I will start off slow. I think take measurements after the first ride or 2 to see if plastic deformation happens before I start sending stuff to flat/going fast, I really don't know how fast I will end up going on the no suspension bike either. Currently running tubes too, so will be nana'ing those so I don't get pinch flats. This style of fork is usually called a segmented fork, it is pretty common though maybe not with this much offset.
  11. Theres too many mistakes on this when you look at it in person. I will probably do that on the next frame since the welding has improved somewhat over the build.
  12. So I asked a bunch of folks to pick a colour from the pantone colour finder and see what the public opinion on the colour selection is. https://www.pantone.com/hk/en/color-finder Here are the candidates: And lastly a classic: I am going to try put up a poll up if I can figure out how to do that. Edit: Go to top of page for the poll disclaimer: veto power is held by the frame builder, I reserve the right to change my mind fi you all vote for the ugliest colour
  13. At this point I had enough bits and pieces to assemble the bike and take it for a ride around the yard. Albeit with only one brake, a slipping singlespeed drivetrain and the seatpost at maximum highpost position. The latter issue was solved with a sanding drum on the dremel to bring the tight spot down to size then I was able to get full insertion. Of the seatpost. I know what you were thinking I'm pretty happy with that. Took it for a hoon around the yard and did some jumps and the forks didn't snap or anything silly. The high offset forks mean that the front end loved to dart into corners, but taking it up to speed down the road it doesn't feel unstable and seems to behave itself well. The handlebars will be getting replaced with some wider bars (780mm) high rise bars. That will help me to do more of an apples to apples comparison with the geometry in relation to my other mountain bikes since I am not used to the narrower bars that it has at the moment. In terms of playfulness with the longer chainstay length it is definitely more difficult to get on the back wheel, will have to see how it is on the trail as that is always a bit different to mucking around on the flat. Next on the agenda is painting since all the other stuff has been finalised now.
  14. I also printed a cable guide that lives under the drink bottle holder like so: And I also put a cable tie guide further up the tube then test routed the cable Works like a dream!
  15. Annoyingly I was out of black filament but I had some ancient white stuff lying around that had gone all brittle. Apparently if you pop it in the oven at 50*c for a hour it fixes it, but out oven thermostat is broken and only goes full noise. So I hit it with the heat gun for a couple of minutes being careful not to overheat it and gave it a nudge. They came out a bit ugly but at least it made it through the extruder. Will have to get some more filament after lockdown.
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