Shrikes Will it ever be finished Toyota Levin AE111 AWD

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Not sure if this is classed as old school or if its special enough but its special too me, clean versions of this car go for what I consider to be silly prices over here in Australia

So I brought this car back in 2008 and it was a daily/main car until I pulled it off the road in early 2010 if my old thread post is correct.

Its a White 1996 Toyota Levin BZG (prefacelift) with Superstrut suspension (TRD adjustable but non coilover) a few minor engine mods, 5Zigen GN+S 18x7.5 and a full toms body kit in hindsight I should have just done some minor things and left it stockish but I was a young guy with dreams

I would have approached things very differently if it was today, I actually had an ST185 celica and a few other cars after this including the R32 I have in my display pic (funnily I brought the ST185 as spares for this and then swapped it for the R32 :p) 

This car is for me the definition of scope creep and given its still in NZ and I haven't been in a rush its dragged out

Trying to consolidate things here in one thread from a couple of other forums, pics aren't always the best and this cars been moved around a few houses and has been at Frost Motorsport since 2016

So original plan was AWD conversion with the 4age blacktop and then a turbo

Then the plan was 7agte, then 9agte and then twincharged

So Ive collected many parts and ive got various pics but I think ill just post some more recent ones

Latest direction is K24 turbo

To add context to the K24 decision, while I have lots of scope creep the whole point of this car was to have off the shelf parts available and being able to have aftermarket support 

Bearings, Pads, Rotors etc are pretty common (though im rethinking the 370Z rear rotors)

Few brain dumps on part fitment (will add more as I remember)

• ST185, ST205 and ST215 Rear Hubs will fit with Factory AE111 suspension arms but require P/N 48780A (pic below to be modified) as its too long
  • 
• ST185, ST205 and ST215 Rear Hubs will fit AE111 Shocks but the lower shock mounts need the holes drilled out to the same diameter as the hubs mounting flange
• Front RAV4 ST185, ST205 and ST215 wheel bearings are larger then AE111 bearings but the inner Diameter is the same
• Machpherson AE111 and ST185 front steering Knuckles are similar
  • ST185 Knuckles bolt upto AE111 Shocks, lower ball-joint on ST185 is larger diameter and needs a sleeve pressed in to work with AE111 ball-joints
• ST185 and RAV4 Front Wheel bearings are the same, RAV4 5x114.3 Drive flanges will fit in ST185 Knuckles
• AE111 Front wheel bearings can accept both ST185, ST205, ST215 and RAV4 Drive flanges so can be converted to both 5x100 and 5x114.3 stud pattern
  • The pic below compares, the larger OD is the Rav4 wheel bearing
• Toyota Highlander/ Kluger drive flanges should work with ST185, ST205 and ST215 rear end.
  • To be confirmed if ST205 rear bearings can bolt on and off as an assembly (cant remember)

 

 

Car went off to my mate Steve at Frost Motorsport for a full cage and some fab work, has been there since. I am in no rush so Steve does things when he gets time

Easter 2016

Made it to Frost Motorsport

Tucked away with the other forgotten project cars

Parts deliveries

I've also had an E52 from a supercharged AE92 dropped off to swap bellhousing's onto the ST185 AWD gearbox .

Moving around the shop

Shops gotten busy (May 2016)

Car being stripped more to be prepped for cage

Moved around again

Onto the Rotisserie

Battery Tray removal and tidy up

More Rotation (ABS on the floor)

You can see the AWD subframe I got made up by Kiwi race cars in 2010 (they did it without the car) and the diff just hits the rear chassis rail.

But it got the car rolling and that was the main thing, Steve is making me a custom front and rear sub frame which Ive got some pics of ill show later

 

To make the rear end work ive got custom MRP AE111 Coilovers with ST205 Bottoms

 

They also did a fuel tank mode for the drive shaft but ive got an Aeroflow 57L fuel cell to replace it with

December 2016

Hidden in back of pics :p 

But new wheels turned up (I brought these from Import monster and got stung on GST in both Australia and NZ ) 

 

Plan is to have the car guards widened to fit these with 265 wide tyres considering a 40 sidewall but may end up with 35, I still haven't brought tyres.

March & April 2017 More prep 

I also brought a Racetech seat and Harness around this time to go into the car

 

 

July 2017 More seam welding

You can see on the 2nd pic how the front suspension arm is just a hair too long to work with the ST185 rear knuckle (though might have been able to force it in) Steve made some custom ones back in 2014 for another customer and agile performance also do off the shelf kits (https://agileperformancenz.com/collections/toyota-celica-gt4/products/celica-st185-st205-rear-control-arms)

 

November 2018 Hiding in the back

Feb 2019 I brought some big brakes from MRP 5x114.3

• 329x28mm Rotors (Falcon)
• 4 Pot Wilwood Calipers
• Lines, brackets, bolts, hub rings

 

April 2019 Ordered Akebono 370Z rear calipers from Jegs in the US to use on the rear with 350X20mm rear discs

 

 

Also brought Blueprint Rear Brake Rotors (Pair / 2 Discs) - ADN143158 via ebay to suit the 370z rotors 

April & May 2019 Parts for a table (I was over in April and did seat fitment)

Mounted in July 2019

At some stage I brought a complete AE115 Carib for parts and Steve pulled the running gear out of it

Aug 2019 (Plan was to use the 7afe and box as a mock up for the 9A at a later date)

October 2019 Subframe updates 

Old pic before it went to Steve but not much space, could have made it work) Reason for new subframe was to allow more suspension adjustments and reduce some weight etc

I also brought a pedal box from Cardwells around this time as I decided removing ABS was a good idea

• 3/4" for Clutch
• 2x 5/8" for front and rear brakes 

Nov 2019 Some LED lights

I would have liked a set of the black factory headlights but couldn't find any for decent pricing (might look around again) so ordered the below ones made out of Fibreglass (they didnt make the carbon fibre ones then) My facelift headlights have tabs broken as is normal for this car

I also have the below style tail lights to go on

 

May 2020 Moar subframe

September & October 2020 Sub-frame Tacked 

 

July & Aug 2022 Playing with Gearboxes 

I brought a front LSD for the GT4 box from agile performance back in Feb 2020 (https://agileperformancenz.com/collections/toyota-celica-gt4/products/celica-gt4-front-lsd-1-5-2-way) along with all new Toyota bearings for it

Goal was to put a A series bellhousing from the Broken E51 or from the AE115 Carib AWD boc onto the Celica GT4 Gearbox so it would work on an A series engine ie 4A 7A etc

Box had been fully rebuilt back in I think 2010 or 11

Few custom tools got made to do this, though speaking with Steve Early 2024 the box hadn't been fully reassembled so it may go back to being a 3S bell-housing depending if the S or A bell works better for an adapter for a K24. If it won't work with a K24 Ill put it up for sale complete as a GT4 Celica gearbox with the LSD installed etc and the money will go towards a Honda AWD box. (PM me if you want to express interest)

And I think this gets us upto date currently, I sat down early 2024 and decided that a 9A build is no longer realistic due to costs and part availability

While this project has snowballed and scope crept I am trying to bring it back in and said to my partner the other night I want it in Australia by 2030, progress has been slow as I haven't pushed and have had other priorities and a big shout out to Steve for being so patient as it takes up space in his shop :p 

I just paid for a K24A3 with 189000km that will be delivered to Steve by the 20th 

I have a few K24 goodies sitting next to me or on the way and will be buying a Nexus r3 to run it

Current plan is

• Get the K24 installed (will be deleting P/S and A/C)
  • Confirm if it will work with GT4 Gearbox (if not Honda AWD box to be brought)
  • If using Honda box will need to acquire new axles/cvs and modify as needed
• 7.5" twin/triple plate clutch
• Custom Prop shaft
• Finish cage and mount seat?
• Paint as needed
• Install front brakes and front end
• Install fuel system, I have all the bits to do a dual pump 2000cc injector system with a fuel cell
• Install rear end
  • Confirm if I already have rear rotors and if not buy some
  • May need some locating rings as well
  • Handbrake setup? (cables I have should work, may need rebuild kit for drum brakes)
• Buy rims that fit current body
  • Buy tyres for existing rims and modify body to suit
• Reinstall factory body wiring
  • Remove anything 4age or redundant from factory fuse box (plan is to run body side with factory setup) and restore loom (Tesa tape, Loom sleeve, heatshrink and replace connectors as needed etc)
• Install cooling system (AN20)
• Wire in Nexus R3 for engine setup
• Exhaust? (as big as I can fit)

Ideally want it movable so I can ship it here when im ready

if time allows

• Turbo, Electronic wastegate & Intercooler etc
• Rear wheel drive intake for better intercooler piping layout
• Oil cooler and remote Oil filter
• Electronic power steering column and Steering rack (may need relocation) looking at GT86/BRZ as an option
• Ducting for cooling (possible undertray)
• Weight reduction options and body parts
• Some form of electronic (Heatpump) A/C and heating
  • Demister vents etc

 

 

 

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So Maintaining Momentum ordered some more parts. with some going straight to NZ (oil coolers/line) and some coming to me first for quality control/checks etc 

Ordered

• 5M of PTFE Stainless and Nylon braid hose -AN10, -AN8 & -AN6 got it from a supplier one of my clients regularly buys off so confident it should be ok. I am mainly using hard line but this should cover any hard line to fuel rail/ fuel pressure reg, Gearbox and Engine oil coolers etc
• 10 Row Oil cooler for the gearbox, ive got the factory one but for the price id rather get a new one installed (its -AN10 but ill adapt it down to -AN6) I may add an inline thermostat to this later
• 19 Row engine oil cooler, already have a Oil filter relocation and thermostatic plate etc on the way along wit some banjo to AN fittings encase I need more clearance (All -AN10)
  • Semi scope creep as not needed to get the car going but both id rather do now
• A whole heap of AN fittings to add to the collection ive currently got with the car
• Aftermarket fuel rail encase I have issues with the factory one
• Aluminum crush washer kit
• O ring kit
• Aftermarket Thermostat housing & upper Coolant housing (I can use this with normal silicon hosing but allows me to go to -AN20 fittings later as I already have them)

On the fence if I do the K20 oil pump now or wait till later, as I can stick with stock rev limit to get it all going.

I have a Turbosmart FPR2000 so will be plumbing it up as a deadhead system similar to the below diagram (Bottom pic)

Will be

• 5/8" Hardline from the Dual pump/fuel cell in the back to -10AN and 1.25"X3" filters (40Micron)
• -10AN to -8AN (Male to Male)
  • I think ive got some fuel shut off valves so may put one in the front and one in the back
• -8AN 1.25 X 3.5" fuel filter (60Micron) (I have two more filters from the GSR project I had that I may reuse (one post FPR)
• -8AN Hose (one end will be 90degree)
• FPR2000
  • -8AN to ORB -8AN
• FPR2000 ORB -8AN to -8AN fitting bottom Port will return back to fuel cell via 1/2" hardline (I am hoping I can run the hardline right to the bottom of the FPR but can run a flexible braided hose if needed)
  • Need to order a fuel flex sensor and fittings (may be a future change) but would plumb this in onto the return
• FPR2000 ORB -8AN to -8AN
• -8AN Hose with 90 on each end
• -8AN to 5/16" (factory fuel rail barb) 
  • I also have the gear to do a -6AN feed if I decide -8AN is overkill or want to save the hose for when I go to a different intake/dual injectors etc
  • If factory rail doesn't work ill throw the aftermarket fuel rail onto it
    • ORB -8AN ports and ill run a M10X1 adapter on the return side or middle port so I can have a fuel pressure sensor
       
• Will have Fuel pressure guage on the FPR and Fuel rail

Will order the Haltech Nexus when I need it, im hoping for an EOFY sale coming up

I brought the FPR2000 back in 2020  

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Few more parts arrived (Crush washers and seals also turned up)

Timing Timing Chain Tensioner Cover and Timing chain guide look good, probably should have gotten a spare O-Ring for the cover

 

Pretty happy with the quality of the upper coolant neck, may have to modify the Orb -16AN to -20AN adapter I have to fit but that's ok (ill probably run silicon hoses to start anyway) the Nut might be a little too big, it might be ok need to check clearance to the block when its installed

EDIT: after looking at some videos it should be fine

Threads on Both thermostat housings are a little rough so will need to clean them up with a 1-5/16" -12 Tap (if I can find one for reasonable pricing) or I might attempt with some thread files 

Also need to shorted my Orb -16AN to -20AN adapter to use with one of these as they are too long

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Tracked down a tap for the threads if I need to buy one

1-5/16-12 Tap but thought id have a look if I could clean it up without first

Couldn't find my circlip pliers so had to do a Bunnings run

This is the worse housing off the two and tbh I probably won't run it as I prefer the design of the other one better (so will go into the spares pile and probably end up on a spare K24)

Ran my debur tool over it and got all the loose metal'swaf off and its all cleaned up, machining marks inside are interesting

Fitting it came with threads the whole way through but my fitting doesn't, there is definitely tolerance differences so would have to shorten my ORB fittings to run them

This kit came with an 82C thermostat

One which ill use the wasn't as bad and I just cleaned all the loose swaf off with my debur tool and de-sharpened some edges

This one also works with my ORB -16AN to -20AN fittings so happy day, it came with a 76C thermostat so I may swap them over. 

If I have issues with either I can go for a factory thermostat, I think the B series ones fit this housing from memory

Also had my K24 ECU plug turn up from the states so I can make a patch harness if I like (god does the air-freshener stink)

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Few more things turned up, think I may have ordered a couple of things by mistake but all good. Should make more sense when other orders arrive

Got the AN6 adapters for the Gearbox oil cooler at least

Most of the fittings to run the factory fuel rail with AN6 lines

Or run this aftermarket one

Aftermarket one needs some clean up

Few rough bits to clean up

EDIT ran my pocket debur tool over the ports and its cleaned up fine

Edit 2 the -8AN to -8AN ORB will probably need drilling out as the ID on the orbside is smaller then my -6AN fittings lol, the -10AN to -8AN ORB is the correct ID for -8AN on the ORB side but could be drilled out to -10AN the whole way through. Will compare to my Aeroflow fittings in NZ and the other AN fittings when they turn up

I've got 10mm drill bit so can enlarge the -8AN out if needed

0.39" is 9.9mm so .1mm bigger won't be an issue

0.30" is 7.62mm so 2.28mm smaller then it should be (will be fine on a stock engine but may be an issue when I add boost)

I have a 12mm bit for the -10AN to -8AN ORB as well but less worried about that one

Overall the fittings are good quality, this -8AN one im not sure why its not drilled out more but its easy to fix

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Moar parts

5m of 10, 8 & 6 AN PTFE braided line and two oil coolers arrived at my parents yesterday

Oil relocation seems to be good quality and made in USA lol

No sharp edges or burrs

I did order the wrong banjo fittings for it though as the thread isn't ORB -10AN

Need to confirm what it is

Edit: thread is M22x1.5 M20X1.5 so will track some banjos down as an option

Oil filter is mislabeled and the adapters are M20x1.5 and M18x1.5, nothing is M22x1.5 in this kit 

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So even though the listing for this says the below ports are 3/8NPT they are in fact actually ORB 8AN M20X1.5 but M18X1.5 fit (a little loose) 3/4" NPT is huge and I don't know why they would fit 

Why I don't know, its possible they are 5/8" NPT and its a typo but that doesn't match up to the measurements and the bungs it comes with screw into my M20x1.5 M18x1.5 Nope Oil cooler kit is mislabeled and it came with M18x1.5 and M20x1.5 fittings not M22 and M20 like I thought 

Luckily the Honda oil filter is M20x1.5

So ill get some 8AN to M20x1.5 8AN to M18x1.5 adapters, one side will be my turbo coolant return as I probably won't run a heater circuit anyway

So the 

• 1x 8AN tee with a 3/8 NPT 
• 2x 8AN to M20x1.5 

Are both spares 

To add context on the factory K24 coolant setup one port is for the heater return (front) and the other (Back) is for the coolant bypass

The coolant bypass brings water from the head and bypasses the radiator until the thermostat opens

Also my obsession with running AN fittings and lines for everything possible is getting silly, I was trying to track down options for a 1/16 NPT to 3AN fittings so I can run ANfitting/line rather then normal silicon vac hose on my Fuel pressure reg

Ill be going for an EGate when I go turbo so no vac lines to worry about there, and my brakes are non boosted as i've gone to a pedal box

Starting to think I won't need many vac ports at all

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So was emailing a little with Uniclutch today as I saw their product on the latest Mighty Car Mods GTR video and I also sent some notes to Steve as well

https://www.youtube.com/@uniclutch

And I thought the idea was pretty cool, as I am not sure which gearbox ill be using yet a clutch that can do both is very appealing

Disclaimer most of the pics below are found on the internet and not of my actual items

Clutch notes:

Honda CRV gearbox has similar bell housing clearance to the GT4 gearbox

 

Uniclutch do some interesting clutch options they don't currently do custom flywheels (plenty of places in NZ do custom flywheels though if needed)

 

They offer a clutch kit that you can change the splines on so one clutch could work with either the CRV or GT4 gearbox

 

 "550kw and roughly ~840 Nm power, you'll be at the safe limit of the 8-inch Track UniClutch (which is the only unit that will fit K24 and 3SGTE). it will still be usable and safe, but if your power goals exceed this, please let us know as you may need to work out something more custom to adapt a 10-inch UniClutch instead."

 

So the 7.25" clutch options ive been looking may not have been great long term but its still a consideration to explore as id been looking at Tilton and Quartermaster clutch setups

 

I like the uniclutch option as it means I can use either gearbox,

 

• the UniClutch Track drives amazingly. you'd be surprised it was even a heavier duty clutch than OEM.
• yes, we have a fitment ring for the K24 and also the spline for the Toyota gearboxes (21T x 29.0mm). depending on which flywheel you end up with, the spline will most likely be included. we also have the spline for the CRV gearbox in most of those kits also if that's the path you'd like to take.
• the UniClutch diaphragm design works with hydraulic and fork style release bearing. you just need to be aware of the 48mm minimum bearing contact diameter. if you have a hydraulic release bearing you'd like to use, send it through and I may be able to confirm over email if it's good.
• as mentioned, we don't have a flywheel available. the UniClutch will bolt to the majority of OEM and aftermarket flywheels using the appropriate fitting kit. rule of thumb is that if an OEM clutch works with the flywheel you're choosing, then we will likely have a fitment kit to suit.

 

Gearbox notes:

 

The CRV gearbox doesn't have the CV shaft come out of the transfer case like the GT4 Box, as you can see below it has a half shaft similar to a fwd gearbox

I know with the E153 Gearbox from the MR2 the Half shaft is bigger and is pretty tight

 

"Cannibal" Kit Instructions | Hux Racing

 

And they redrill the 3SGTE flywheel to suit the K24 Crank bolt pattern

K24 Flywheel is the same Diameter as the 3SGTE flywheel 305mm and both are 120 Teeth

K24 Flywheel is more compact then 3SGTE flywheel

 

I am not sure if we could shave the block and the GT4 transfer case to make it fit, and id rather not shave the GT4 transfer case, as if it won't work then id like to try sell it as I think they go for ok money (esp with a front LSD)

 

I wonder if there is an option to do a Billet transfer case that would be smaller diameter?

 

The AE115 Gearbox (E59F) may have a smaller transfer case but im not sure it it would fit on the GT4 box plus I think its a narrow gear instead of a wide gear (May have confirmed its Narrow below as the 5th gear cover us Steel rather then Cast)

 

Which is why I got the E51 or E52 box with the 3rd gear issue as it was wide gear so the bell-housing should work on the GT4 box as I am unsure if the narrow gear bell-housing would work

 

Im also not sure which of the 4A or 3S bell-housing will be the best to work with for an adapter anyway, I think I prefer the starter motor location on the 3S bell housing but the 4A might be better as it gets it at the back of the engine 

 

And im more open to modifying the 4A bell-housing as its on a box (E51 or E52) that already has issues with the 3rd gear

 

 

Also while I remember (I don't think I need clearance however)

 

The Narrow Geared E Series boxes (Rav4 (E250F), E56 & E58 (AE101 GTZ) E59F (AE115?) have a steel 5th gear cover that is smaller then the Alloy cast cover so may be an option to swap if we need clearance on that side.

 

 

 

To fit the CRV box we would need to

• Gear selector setup? (not sure if my existing one would work)
   
• Shorten and re-spline both front CV CRV axles to work with Toyota ST185 or ST205 Front outer CV joint
   
• Custom prop-shaft (transfer to diff) (not worried about this as most likely needed one anyway)
   
• Modifications to correct diff ratio as front and rear don't match (even factory honda diffs don't at 2.529:1) (multiple options below not sure if I really like any of them tbh) Factory CRV isn't full time AWD so the diff ratio not matching isn't an issue as the rear diff turns on and off as needed
   
  1. Auto front transfer case and run 35 profile front tyres and 40 profile rears to get the diff ratio closer (and if we haven't pinned/locked the front transfer this should be ok to start)
      
  2. Custom transfer gear 0.3778 ratio (factory is 0.434 for the Manual and 0.393 for the Auto)
      
  3. Custom Rear diff ratio of 2.549:1 (hard as nothing off the shelf and the Celica rear diff is a 6.7" T series diff but is potentially different to other T series) Factory Celica ratio is 2.928:1
      
  4. Auto front transfer case and change rear diff to a Jag X type X400 (Currently no LSD option but one coming, and the diffs are pretty cheap so I could get two and weld one up etc )
     1. New rear diff mounts to suit
     2. Re-spline and shorten rear driveshafts to suit Toyota ST185 or ST205 Rear outer CV joints

There is also a corvette that has a 2.59:1 rear diff but its not a very common diff so availability is an issue

Can happen later ie once the cars going and potentially shipped over to me in Aus

• Front LSD
• Pin/lock CRV transfer case so its 100% AWD ( there is a clutch pack option for this)
   
  • Might need billet transfer case and upgraded transfer gears depending on power being run
     
• CRV/Honda gearboxes in general aren't know for taking power so would probably need to build it with a gear-set to handle the turbo 

Maybe I need to start stockpiling gearboxes along with engines :p

Though I may pick up a cheap complete CRV if need be

Edit: adding to this the E51/52, E56, E58, E59F, E153, E15XF & E59F all share the same clutch Spline of 29mm and 21 Teeth. Factory 4AGE (20v), 7AFE/4AFE (FWD gearbox) are 23.8mm X 21 Teeth. 

 

[fuel]

keep in mind the Honda 4WD system is kind of like Haldex where there is no center diff and it relies on a viscous coupling or electronically controlled clutch pack on the rear diff to allow and control slip between the front and rear axles. The Toyota 4WD has the center diff in the gearbox in place of where a usual FWD front diff would be, and then spits out two output shafts to the transfer case that houses the front diff as well as a LSD for the center diff.

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5 hours ago, fuel said:

keep in mind the Honda 4WD system is kind of like Haldex where there is no center diff and it relies on a viscous coupling or electronically controlled clutch pack on the rear diff to allow and control slip between the front and rear axles. The Toyota 4WD has the center diff in the gearbox in place of where a usual FWD front diff would be, and then spits out two output shafts to the transfer case that houses the front diff as well as a LSD for the center diff.

Yeah if I went the CRV AWD route id be pinning/locking the transfer case so its full time AWD and id be running a real diff at the back thats not electronicly controlled.

Though thinking about it, would there be a benefit of only having the awd kick in when needed?

Still it would probably need mods it handle the power output

[fuel]

Do you plan on street driving it at all, or just wanting to turn around in a car park without it hopping and skipping away? You really need some kind of differential or slip between the front and rear axles and locking it to be full time AWD will definitely introduce some drivability issues. 

 

*edit * just realised I've been responding within a build thread post whoops - though figured this should be in other projects section given its (lack of) age?

[shrike]

In Wellington atm, working on getting it rolling might end up getting it running/driving as close to stock as I can.

Trying to get some quotes to ship it over to Melbourne. But given it currently doesn't even have a handbrake going to be a task and not sure what my options are 

Sorting through what I have still and what's missing/boxing things up to ship etc

Steve is happy to store, so may have to make some trips over as I buy parts, may see if I can track down a parts car

Trying not to feel defeated currently 

Edit: been pillaging the ae110 at pickapart this morning (30/12)in the rain. 3hrs and more money then I expected to spend ive got a fair amount of interior, a very dirty ac/heatercore setup (with vents) various hardware and other bits.

Debating going back later/tomorrow to get more, but need to take stock of what ive got, didnt manage to get any space savers.

Couple of people wrecking cars around the place, and I need to organise someone to come do seam sealing over the seam welding and reseal the underside. Along with popping out a small dent near the fuel cap/look at one of the jacking points.

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May have found a dereg rolling shell complete minus engine/box/doors/bonnet that the guy is able to deliver just sorting out details 

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Parts car should be dropped off hopefully today/this week, need to work out when I can get back to swap parts over (might be a few months :s) feeling like im going backward but sometimes thats what has to be done

Edit: looks like it will be tomorrow, also finding out more issues as other parts being put back together sigh, not having much luck atm