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63Ragtop last won the day on March 3

63Ragtop had the most liked content!


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  1. Old-school, where a 22 year old car is modern. I love it.
  2. Holy shit dude! It's a work of art! Dangerous looking machines, and amazing. Will it get a body? Any videos?
  3. I would suggest something like this for the rear cover. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/ipod-mp3-accessories/speakers/listing/3589883227 Won't muffle the sound and isn't to expensive.
  4. All good bro, as I say no rush. 100mm will be a bit tight in the vw tiny engine bay, would be more like 70-75mm, but will have to mock up everything first to see. Thank you kindly.
  5. Would be keen as for that price. I'm going to be building my engine over winter so will be much later this year. Just simple welded on barbs etc, if I was to give you dimensions and shit could you make one to suit or is that a massive ballache?
  6. It's actually reg right now, just the wof has run out. I think the problem is there is no way of knowing the cars actual history before he got it. Thanks man.
  7. Dear people, a good friend of mine has decided that after 20 years of ownership of his MK2 Esky sport to get it all legal and update the very out of date cert plate. He's having a fucking nightmare. It's running a 2ltr pinto with Weber sidedrafts, Celica 5speed, Carpi disc's etc. 1, he's stupidly done things over the years like replace the whole front after a crash. 2, he's stupidly done mods like replace the factory pedal box with an aftermarket unit. 3,and this is the big one, apart from the number on the cert plate, there is no trace of the chassis number. So on a scale of bad to fucked, how fucked is he? I had a get a new number for the bug which seems pretty easy in retrospect, but guess it had a number just the wrong one. Sincerely yours Ragtop.
  8. OMG! That 90s grey tweed interior, always thought that would be sweet, until I actually felt tweed.
  9. Great work sir! I think body color rims would look sweet, but not original.
  10. Two weeks I waited to hear the verdict on the case. Before I took the car off the road for the rust and paint mission, the oil leaks had pissed me off enough to pull the engine out and take it to a local mechanic for new pushrod tubes and any other seal he could bung up. I remember him telling me the case was cracked behind number 3, the thinnest part and hottest running cylinder, and the heads were toast. We he was fuckin wrong about the case! Unbelievably it's only on its second over size now, so happy as finding a good base to build is getting hard these days. Even more amazingly, the crank is still within standard spec and even the center journal with the munted bearing only needed a light polish. The dude even said " he can't remember the last time a crank came in,that didn't need machining" guessing lucky! But I do always change my oil regularly, every 3000miles or six months as you should on these old clankers. I set about cleaning up the case. Using a small brass wire brush and turps. Will need to make sure all the galleries and shit are clean before it goes back together. Also go as well as the crank bearings, which are machined to fit, new big end bearing in the rods, new cam bearings and a full engine seal kit. These however, have been quietly waiting their turn under the bench for a long time. Soon my pretty, soon.
  11. It's spending other people's money the best! Haha, as much as I would like to, this thing can already out drive is terrible drum brakes.
  12. So I took the case and crank over to Qualitat for their air-cooled guy to check if the it was viable to rebuild. Wasn't holding out much hope as this is 40-50 year old chunk of alloy that I abused on a daily basis. Took the opportunity to clean up the rear wheel well. Made these from some scrap alloy I had. Marked up a that's about right spot. And cut some massive triangles out of my nicely painted engine bay. Drilled hole and popped rivnuts in. Left the edge rough to hammer over the frame to strengthen the panel up. Both bent to shape and countersunk for mounting, the plan was to drill and tap the frame for the covers to attach with but was thinking about using VHB tape. All this work is to make installing the carbs and manifolds easier, it to about 10 minutes to put the engine in last time, and two hours to tighten the four nuts that hold the manifolds on.
  13. Goldwing owners and a ulissan membership, congratulations.
  14. Okay I guess will have to see what the expert says. I had this engine built for my 21st back in the year 2000. It's a 1600 twin oil relief case from the early 70s
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