kws

Yes. PM me if you know anything i should know

Is you put a whole engine/driveline swap into a lower spec car, does it need drive shaft hoops and stuff for cert? Example is taking a 328i BMW, and swapping EVERYTHING from a same year/model M3 into the 328i shell. Engine, driveline, suspension, interior, everything but body panels. I understand it needs a cert for increase in engine size etc, just wanted to know how strict it is since its all factory bolt in with no mods. Also, when getting said cert, if its on standard suspension, does it need to have the wheels noted on the cert or is there a way for the wheels to just not be listed? (looking at a car that has had all this done, and it currently has garish wheels on it and would want to return to stock which is a different size, but current owner would cert the car as is with the current wheels)

On this same topic, say your car had some sick juddies in it, and no other mods. You wanted to remove said sick juddies becuase you got old and had to hang your flat peak up, and revert to standard suspension. Could you just drill the rivets out of the plate and roll stock? What if you wanted to sell the car in future, could you reinstall sick juddies, rivet the plate back on and get mad cash selling to a flat peaker?

Can confirm diagnosing board issues is a total fuck around. My 0.4 Speeduino board had issues with the ground plane not being connected to certain pins on the board, so i spent ages tracing everything back and soldering in extra jumpers to fix it.

It's mentioned in the first post the check valve is in place and new. Still worth testing it's working properly or swapping out. OP, have you tested the booster with a vacuum pump to check it can hold a solid vacuum (not just a "by ear" or "feel" test)?

I'm not worried personally. I'm a big fan of seeing other people tinker no matter the setup. Nothing like some @Roman graphs and science to go over my head but impress me.

Tunerstudio is super easy to learn the basics, and for MS there are soooo many tutorials and forum posts that almost everything has been covered at some point. I'd say go for it, personally. Just as an aside, Speeduino is now available as a prebuilt board

Playing with, building and tuning my Speeduino was awesome. Grass Roots ECU at its best. Links are great, but more a chequebook setup than megasquirt etc. Nothing wrong with that but not really what diy is about. I have another Speeduino sitting here waiting for another project.

Fuel is easy, especially with auto tune, but getting ignition just right without a dyno/knock gear is a lot harder.

One thing i need to ask if youre buying an ECU, is what is the preferred ECU for your tuner? You dont want to end up with an ECU your tuner doesnt want to work with, unless you're prepared to travel or tune it yourself.

I can see no reason for this not work work, its basically exactly what a patch harness is. Just make sure everything goes to the correct pins and it should work.

Cant imagine you would get much cheaper than a 14point7 SLC Free or Spartan2 without it being rubbish?

Lots of mk1/2 bits floating around in the various NZ Facebook groups, if you aren't on there already. May need to make a post on there and ask.

I have used rods from Bunnings to stick a couple of bits of aluminium together, seem to recall they were flux cored but using proper flux might help. Needed heaps of heat though, so a decent torch. Scrub the area around it with a scotch pad until it's spotless.

Today was the day; Recheck day. Everything had been building up to today. All the work done, all the money spent, it all comes down to a pass or fail today. First thing I needed to do was get the alignment sorted. I had booked for an alignment first thing this morning, so that I would have ample time to get that done and still make it to my recheck booking. They got onto it straight away And within no time, I had this sheet in my hands Yes, that is 21.5mm total front toe, when it should be 1mm total! No wonder it was scrubbing the front tires hard. With that sorted, the car drives much nicer now, and the steering wheel is finally straight when driving. After the alignment I shot home and refitted the front carpet. Its torn and ugly, but looks better than the bare floors. Remember, I'm trying to make an impression so the inspector plays nice I hooned in for my appointment. This confirms my suspicion that the car doesn't really suit 100kph motorways. It gets to, and holds, that speed OK, but it's pulling almost 4000rpm and there is some tasty shaking at times. Need to check the wheels for balance, which I may do next week. I suspect it's out. I may even paint the wheels while I have them off as they are a bit rusty. Looks good just sitting there I went away and killed some time and when I returned, lo and behold, this happened For the first time since 2012, Snicket is road legal! With the standard black plates still! This was a car that when I got it, barely ran, had no brakes, had no lights, leaked oil a lot, various things were loose and missing, and had been used as a parts mule. Now it runs like a champ, it's great fun to drive, and best of all, it's a viable classic car again. Others would have just scrapped it and we would be short one more awesome classic Mini, but now it's actually worth investing time and money into, and being able to enjoy it. I drove home the back way, arm out the window, enjoying the wind in my hair and the sun on my face, whilst listening to the sweet sound of a 998cc A Series purring away. I couldn't help but stop and grab a couple of quick pictures It's a great little car, and though for what I have spent I could have purchased a tidier one that was already on the road, I wouldn't have been able to save this car.