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Everything posted by kws

  1. Isn't it written off because it's no longer fit to be on the road and declared unrepairable?
  2. The only thing I have been told about them is that they last bugger all time and arent cost effective. I guess its better than gasless, but would depend on how much welding you intend to do.
  3. Finally managed to get to bunnings today, only to find that Porirua has no full bottles of MIG gas, havent for weeks and have no ETA for more. I did grab a regulator, some 0.6 wire and a couple of extra cut off disks though. Apparently Petone has some bottles, so will give them a try.
  4. Man im glad my car was in Carjam still, means none of this cocking about needed to be done. Definitely something to keep in mind when planning to re-rego a car. Be interesting to know what the over all resolution is to the police part of it. Hopefully the OIA just comes back as "nah no care" and you're sweet from there.
  5. Do you have a local battery supplier? They might have something that would work
  6. The process isn't really that vague or complicated tbh, and as you say, almost everything you outlined has been discussed previously in the re-rego thread. The only complexity is that you cannot provide a decent paper trail of how you became the owner, but a jp signed declaration should take care of that.
  7. I used this form when I re-rego'd my Mini, https://tasteslikepetrol.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Statutory-declaration-final-1.pdf Just tweak the details as needed, but its a very token gesture as the JP I got to sign it didnt even read it In terms of other paperwork, as it had plates and came up in Carjam I printed a copy of Carjam off showing it wasnt reported stolen (not even a report, just the main screen); I also provided a basic purchase agreement signed by the seller, and a copy of the trademe listing. Basically just a paper trail of how I came to obtain the car, and that I am now the owner of it. There is a bit more detail on the process on my site, if it helps, https://tasteslikepetrol.net/2018/11/project-snicket-re-registration/
  8. Dumb question, but is there a seperate volume control on the Sat receiver that is turned down?
  9. kws

    Rubber lube

  10. Right, the wallet hurts, but everything I need to rebuild the box is on the way (except a replacement diff, fingers crossed I don't need one). New bearings (steel cage where possible), seals, bolts, clutch, everything. Then once the box is done, I can start fixing the other issues with the car...
  11. Sounds like someone has just chucked a set of plates off another truck on it. As mentioned, you'd bin the plates and get new ones, but the problem is you would have to do it from VIN/Chassis number, and i'll bet you would find that the original truck has been dereg.
  12. Well, that didn't take long. I knew I was on borrowed time with the gearbox but didn't expect it would come around this quickly. So, I had the new tyres fitted yesterday (Yoko AD08r in the correct Turbo size), fiddled with the old brake light switch (since the replacement is AWOL) to stop the brake lights from being on all the time, and then went out to bed the new brakes in. The car was running great, it ran smoothly and was responsive. The brakes have good feel, with no shudder and the gearbox was shifting great. A few hard stops and a KM or two later I pulled over to check the wheel nut torque (not going to take the risk of not checking them after a brake job again, after the wheels nearly coming off on the Corolla). Of course, the wheels were fine, so I pull back onto the road, gave it a bit of throttle, the turbo spins up, boost comes in and then suddenly It just free revs. It felt like it popped out of gear, so I clutch in, into neutral, into second, let the clutch out, and nothing, just revs. Oh no. I roll to a stop at the side of the road and try a few more gears, nothing, I can let the clutch out with it in gear and nothing happens, doesn't even stall. I can push the car forward when it's in reverse, which is not good. I fire off a quick text to let my Wife know I might be a while and call AA to arrange a tow. "Yes, I am about 1.6KM away from home" I confirm with the rep on the phone... At least it looks good, sitting there, waiting. Whilst I waited I took a quick walk back to where I stopped to check the wheel torque A quick sniff test confirmed that was a nice trail of my fresh, rather expensive, Honda MTF gear oil. There was also a small amount under the car where it sat. After a fairly short wait, a friendly chap with a truck arrived winched the old girl aboard and dropped me home again. The Tomcat repaid his help by leaving a large amount of gear oil on the truck bed, and on the road where the car was loaded and unloaded. So what went wrong then? I jacked the front of the car up, confirmed it had no drive to the wheels and slid under to find out why. That'll do it. The shiny bit the arrow is pointing to should be inside the gearbox and shouldn't be visible. It also explains why the gearbox weed everywhere as the seal was wide open without the shaft to seal it. I did some careful levering with a prybar and popped it back into place. I'd be very surprised if this is a new issue... I suspect I'm not the first one to lever that back into the gearbox. Whilst under there I had a good look around. Noticed a couple of minor coolant leaks I will need to attend to, but also noticed this rear engine mount completely missing its nut. I found a new pre-loved nyloc nut that fit, and wound that on nice and tight. Who knows, maybe that will fix some of the movement in the engine. The driveshaft has quite a lot of radial (up and down) play when inserted back into the gearbox, which confirms my suspicions, both about the condition of the box, and why it popped out; the gearbox bearings are stuffed. These gearboxes do not tolerate being neglected, and being over a litre of oil down when I got it, I suspect it's not had a good time. When Rover had these boxes built, they chose to use hi-tech ball bearings with plastic to retain the balls. This probably seemed like a good idea at the time, and they worked well for years, as long as the plastic didn't get old and the gear oil could keep them cool Above is an example of the bearings used in the PG1 gearbox; uprated steel cage bearing on the left and stock plastic cage on the top right. Unfortunately, the bearings Rover used seem to wear badly no matter what (they tend to get pitting in the races and go a bit grindy), but when coupled with low oil and high temps, the plastic can fail, causing the bearings to no longer be sufficiently retained, as per this extreme example where the plastic has broken and the balls have all converged on the lowest point. This sort of damage is what can also break the flange off the diff center. So I suspect mine has either started to break down the plastic, or the races have worn to the point there is excessive play. The popping out drive shaft is the usual giveaway of bearing failure. With the driveshaft back in place, I have drive to the wheels again, so once I refill the gearbox with the cheapest oil I can get, the car will be mobile enough to get out of the garage and into the drive, where it will sit in shame waiting for me to rebuild the gearbox. I will be stripping the gearbox, replacing all the bearings, and oil seals. Uprated metal caged bearings will be used everywhere they are available. Whilst I'm there I will also be doing the clutch. I'm hoping to keep the Type A torsen diff, but I will need to check it's in good condition once the gearbox is split; if not, I will need to increase the budget and add a Quaife to the list. After that, the gearbox should be damn near bulletproof. I was really hoping to get more than a couple of KM (literally, I've done sub-10KM since I got it) out of the car before it seriously broke, but that's the British car game I play. Every day is a gamble.
  13. Well, it all ground to a halt today. Was out bedding in the new brakes, car running and driving the best it has. Took off from a stop with a little vigor, comes on boost and pop, suddenly it feels like its come out of gear and free revs. I try selecting a gear again, so change. Turns out I've lost all gears, including reverse. I have also lost all the fresh new gearbox oil all over the flat bed tow trucks deck. The car can be pushed forward when in reverse and backwards when in a forward gear, so the wheels feel detached from the gearbox. No grinding, no rattling, nothing. Just no gears. At least it looked really good sitting waiting for the tow I'll need to jack the car up tomorrow and see what's given way. No result is good, as it all basically comes down to gearbox out and a rebuild. Maybe its time to get a Type B or Quaife, if that's whats gone.
  14. Im going to try pick up a bottle of gas from bunnings this weekend, are there any special requirements for transporting it? I figure it probably shouldnt be rolling about in the boot?
  15. The last lot of work was to service the braking system as it wasn't quite right. In the test drives I have taken the car on the brakes have felt a bit off. The pedal is soft, with lots of travel and not much in the way of stopping. There is also quite a shudder when braking and the hand brake appears to only be working on one side. The plan was to replace the front pads and rotors and the rear pads, figuring the shudder is likely to be from the front, and the pads on the rear were looking old. The front rotors had some grooves in them, but no lip. I suspect the shudder was probably pad deposits from sitting, and may have gotten better with more use. The rotors were quite rusty through. Two 12mm bolts hold the caliper to the slider pins. Removing these allows the caliper to swing up and over. I was really worried about these rotor retaining screws as they all look quite chewed up, but they came out with no issue. I used a screwdriver bit in my impact wrench to undo them. A quick clean of the hub face and on went the new rotor. The old pads did look quite recent and had little wear. It's peace of mind to replace them though. The slider pins were well greased and sliding freely. I cleaned and regreased them anyway. These little plates that the pads ride on weren't in good shape though. Both were gunged up with old grease and brake dust. I've cleaned one half of this one with a wire brush. After cleaning all the plates up, giving them a coating of copper grease and refitting them to the bracket it was time to fit the pads. I would have liked some Mintex pads, but they aren't easy to get here and are really expensive. The piston in the caliper was pressed back with a clamp, and the caliper refitted. The bracket to hub bolts get torqued to 100NM, and the caliper slider bolts are 32NM. Rinse and repeat for the other side. The rears are a little more of a pain due to the handbrake cable. Mmm webs. This isn't even the worst, the other side was grosser. Lots of fly spray and vacuuming made it safe to work. The pads had plenty of meat but were old Lucas pads, maybe original to the car? I removed the handbrake cable pins because they are known for rusting up, and sure enough, mine was very stiff and rusty. I cleaned it with a wire brush and refitted it with plenty of copper grease. The slider pins on each side were stiff and covered in dry old grease. They weren't seized but didn't move freely. These were thoroughly cleaned and greased before refitting. The other side was much of the same. One of the boots on the slider pins hadn't been fitted correctly but thankfully still kept dirt out. The grease was still hard as a rock though. The boot should go right to the head of the pin Everything was cleaned and greased, and the piston in the caliper freed up and wound back in. The rear rotors aren't looking good. They have no lip but seem to be quite pitted. I might revisit these and if a few good hard stops don't clear them up, replace them. The handbrake mech on each caliper moves freely, so they should be working OK. I gave them a good coating on WD40 to help them move nicely. I bled the brakes next. I flushed the system, but I don't think I needed to. The fluid was quite clear and looked like it had been done somewhat recently (despite one of the bleed nipples being blocked and needing removal to clear it, and the two rear ones being rusty and taking a bit of force to shift). Bit of a mystery that. The bleed sequence with the Bosch ABS unit is LH FR, RH FR, LH RR, RH RR. The pedal still has a bit of travel but does feel firmer now. I still can't drive the car because the brake light switch is faulty but once I can I will do the bed-in procedure. I tried to adjust the hand brake after pumping the brakes 20 odd times as recommended, and the adjuster had been wound all the way out. I got it from bout 10 clicks down to 5-6 but I'm still not sure if it's working evenly. I really need to bed the brakes in first, and then adjust it again and see what happens. One other thing I noticed was that the rear muffler was hanging on by one hanger. Some WD40 and a bit of wiggling and I had it back in place. Hopefully this helps the placement of the muffler as it's a bit on the piss and doesn't match the cutout in the rear splitter. The whole exhaust is a bit woeful. I might need to take it in somewhere and have it fixed properly. It's been "modified" and has no mufflers except the back box. Since the car has all the wheels off anyway, now is a good time to replace the tyres. I find tyres can tell a lot about a previous owner. A high powered sports car like this, running on ditch finders on the front and mismatched old and cracking tyres on the rear.... the previous owner was an idiot. Yes, that is date coded 2008. All the tyres are the wrong size, being 185/55R15, not the turbo size of 195/55R15. I got the new rubber the other day, and I just need to book it in and have it fitted. Yokohama AD08R. Pretty serious street rubber. I'm hoping they are as good as the Hankook I had on the Corolla (which aren't available in this size). I'm looking forward to putting them through their paces. I will hopefully have the brake light switch this week, and tyres fitted next weekend. I might even try for a WOF when I get the tyres done and see what happens.
  16. This car has some cosmetic challenges. I managed to knock a couple off and make things just a little nicer. Most of the cosmetic issues with this car stem from it being outside under the sun. There are some things that are hard to get (or hard to replace) but thankfully some parts are easy to replace, and since there is an R8 Rover 200 liftback at the local Pick A Part I went on a raid to get some bits. The major one was the dash wood. Mine was in really bad condition and was an eyesore to look at. Although the wood seemed good, the lacquer was falling off in chunks. The wood on the dash of the car at PAP was perfect. Not a mark on it. Removing the trim can be a bit nerve-wracking. There are a series of spring clips along it. To release the clips, start with a pry tool on the far LH side, levering it outwards. Using another tool, work slightly further along. Eventually, with some force, the end clips will give in, and then you can just pull it free with your hands. The other benefit of replacing the trim was that I could look into why the backlight on the clock was dead. The LCD was working as you could just make out the faint digits. It turns out that both the bulb was blown, and the clock needed to be disassembled and the solder joints reflowed. The replacement clock suffered the same issue. The replacement wood just pushes into place, starting at the RH end. And the clock works too. Such a classic orange glow. When I was at Pick A Part I decided to grab a couple of door switches, as I know they are known failure points. Turns out this was fortuitous as both of mine were broken, and the interior light didn't work. The slider lever had broken off both. One screw holds it on, so remove that Disconnect the cable, plug it into the replacement and screw it back in. Done. Rinse and repeat for the other side. Now the light works on the door setting. I changed it to an LED for more brightness and less consumption. The LED doesn't fade quite as nice as a bulb (yes, the light fades out, how flash) but it's not really noticeable unless you're watching the light. Moving right along, the next part I scored was a good condition front grille. Mine was rusty and I was at risk of getting tetanus every time I lifted the bonnet (which is a lot). 5 nuts hold the grille on. I found this mess behind the grille. A quick clean And the replacement grille fitted. I had to swap my badge over because someone had screwdrivered the badge when it was at PAP. This is why I replaced it The replacement had some surface rust on it, but I wire brushed it and then used some rust converter to hopefully stop it getting too crispy. The grille is riveted together, So it wouldn't be a bad idea to split it and properly coat that steel backing inside and out. Still plenty more parts to tidy up on this car, but it looks nice from afar.
  17. It was obvious from the moment the car was delivered that I had purchased yet another car with a deferred maintenance problem. There were leaks everywhere, and the coolant was anything but. Of course, this set me into the usual course of action. A full service. The first on the list was the coolant. When I first backed the car off the truck, before starting it, I checked to see if there was anything in the expansion tank. There was, but it was a mixture of clean water and brown sediment. Yay. Draining the cooling system is fairly simple, albeit a pain due to a lack of a drain tap, so you have to pull the lower radiator hose off and try not to make a huge mess. Thankfully I got a cheap fish bin a while back, and that was perfect for catching a large amount of liquid from various places. There was no coolant in the system, just brown murky water. I drained it all out, removed the expansion tank for a quick clean (it's very stained, but holds pressure, so it will stay for now) and then flushed the radiator and engine through with fresh water until it ran clean. With the expansion tank out it was the perfect time to remove the ugly AC pipe that was just hanging out in the engine bay. The AC system is a write-off since the previous owner left the inlet/outlet on the pump open to the elements for who knows how long, so the pump is probably stuffed. I'll just make do with popping the tops on a hot day (or using a different car). To flush the engine I removed the top hose. This hose should house a thermostat (it's held in the top hose with a hose clamp, not in a housing). I suspected the thermostat was missing, and sure enough, nothing. Filling and bleeding the T series system is also quite easy. Fill the expansion tank up whilst squeezing the top hose until coolant starts to flow from the top hose bleed screw (which was plugged solid with gunk, so I had to clear the bleed screw first. It should have a little hole in the side near the top so you don't have to remove the screw completely), and then run the car up to temp with the cap off the tank. I used my big coolant funnel to raise the head even higher which makes bleeding a bit easier, but not necessary. This is about how far the bleed screw needs to be opened if the internal channel in the screw is clear The coolant bottle ain't great, but at least I can see the coolant level now. I removed some coolant once I was sure the cooling system was bled, and now it sits just on the Max line. Next up, since the engine was warm now, was to drop and replace the engine oil and filter. This was really easy. 19mm bolt on the back of the sump to drain the oil, and the filter is just right there off to the side. The smell of Bullshite was starting to get pretty strong now. In the listing for the car when I bought it, it clearly states "Full Service" as having recently been done. Well, clearly not the coolant, or as it turns out, the engine oil. The oil was black and smelt a bit fuelly. Not fresh, that's for sure. I poured in the required 4.5L of HPR10 10W50 full synthetic, started the car up, the oil light went straight out and the engine sounded happy. The gearbox was next. I know these PG1 gearboxes are VERY sensitive to being run with low fluid due to their plastic cage bearings, which will overheat and grenade themselves. There is some bearing noise at idle in this car, and I could see the gearbox was wet on the back, so hopes weren't high that the oil level was correct. As always, remember to crack and remove the fill plug first, and then the drain plug. The fill plug (green arrow) is a 17mm hex, whilst the drain plug (orange arrow) can be undone with a 3/8 ratchet with no socket. Because I was curious, I drained the fluid into a clean measuring jug. The colour wasn't good, and it smelt burnt. Well, I'm glad I drained it. Less than 1.5L, which is over 1L down on the 2.5L it should have in it. No chunks thankfully, but those bearings must be a bit toasty. I refilled the box with Honda MTF. I agonised (like usual) over this oil decision for ages, but the recommended oil is Landrover MTF94 (which supersedes engine oil in the box), which according to the interwebs is interchangeable with Honda MTF. Either way, it's got to be better than what was in there. Interestingly though, Honda MTF is very thin, which was a surprise. With the underside fluids done, I moved on to the sparky stuff. The leads didn't inspire confidence, as they were generic off the shelf Repco leads. Probably fine, probably do the job, but were wrong. Wrong is bad. With the leads removed, I could remove the spark plugs. These did actually look quite new, and were the right model (NGK BKR6E), but they hadn't regapped them from the standard 1.1mm gap to the required 0.85mm gap. Sigh. I fit a new set of BKR6E gapped to 0.85mm and then fit the new Lucas LUC7443 leads. I also removed and replaced the cap and rotor. They were in decent shape, but had some minor wear. It's quite interesting that the T series doesn't have a distributor as such, the rotor mounts right onto the end of the camshaft, and the cap screws to the head. The shield under the cap was looking a bit worse for wear, but are expensive to replace. New cap and rotor fitted, and new leads connected. I was interested to note that despite the listing saying "new coils" the coil (tucked behind the battery) was original. Maybe they meant spark plugs? Next, since the intake pipes were out of the way, I wanted to check the wastegate and dump valve were working correctly. I connected my vacuum pump to the dump valve vacuum hose, but it wouldn't hold a vacuum. I could hear a whistling noise. Nuts. Turns out, the vacuum hose had a big gash in it, which had been badly covered with insulation tape. That tape had proceeded to fail in the heat and wasn't sealing anything. The vacuum hose to the wastegate was actually a length of fuel hose and had gone rock hard in the engine bay heat. Unfortunately when trying to remove this pipe from the boost control valve, I broke the nipple off the valve. Ugh. I did a quick fix, hopefully it holds. If it doesn't I will look into a manual boost control to replace it, and set it to standard boost. To try to fix this one I ran a 5mm drill bit down it, and epoxyed a short section of brake tube into the hole. It was a snug fit (had to be tapped into place), and the epoxy is meant to be super strength. I used a length of old hose to test the dump valve and wastegate in the meantime, and thankfully both worked as expected. After a couple of days for the epoxy to cure, I replaced the rubbish vacuum hoses with new black silicone vacuum hose. Since I was already there, I quickly removed the cambelt cover to check the timing and condition of the belt. I had been told the belt was replaced recently when the headgasket was done. Since the head is pouring oil from everywhere, I didn't have much faith in the cambelt having been done/done properly either. Thankfully, the belt looks very good, if it's not new new, it's not long been replaced. Even better, the timing marks all line up as they should. It appears the roll pins are in the correct locations too. I buttoned the engine back up The engine bay looks exactly the same, except for the missing AC pipe, and the green coolant in the tank. The main benefit was that the engine starts on the button every time, doesn't overheat when idling, runs quietly and idles smoothly. Annoyingly the brake light switch has failed (brake lights stuck on again), so since I'm waiting on a replacement to show up I haven't been able to take the car for a drive since I did all this work. Hopefully it isn't too far away, I'm dying to see if it boosts better now. Since the car was stuck in the garage I did a couple of other things. The boot latch was no good. As I mentioned in my previous post, I had to slam the boot lid hard to get it to catch. This was due to the catch having a missing plastic section inside it. I managed to source a replacement catch, with the correct plastic piece intact. This is the old catch And this is the new catch, with the required black plastic bit The plastic part alters how far the striker needs to go into the catch before it shuts the latch. Interestingly the new catch was date stamped 97 (my original 94) and seems to have some running updates and is a higher quality. The improvement is vast. Not only does the internal release work correctly now, but I don't have to slam the boot lid. I can close it like a normal person, gently letting it close, and it latches first time every time. Great success. Now to get some new gas struts so I don't have to worry as much about the 2 tons of boot lid taking my head off when I use the boot.
  18. GOsh that gold one brings back memories. Mate had one years ago that was identical (RO280, long since dereg after he sold it). We sank it in a river once, over the bonnet, engine swallowed a bunch of water. Towed it out, pulled the saturated air filter out, fired it up and shot all the water out the exhaust in a massive jet of black water. Drove home no issues.
  19. I've checked the VIRM and I think its a no, but does a side window (IE: Drivers window) have to operate for a WOF or is it OK if it is stuck up (or down)?
  20. I believe E46 bmw do too, some models at least.
  21. Send him my way if he is going to wreck either of them (or stripping the race car out for lightening etc), Its a Rover, Im always going to need to hoard parts
  22. If its a coupe, is he selling any bits from it?
  23. If it helps, this was suitable for my Toyotas
  24. And thats a wrap. Carib went off to its new owner today. Will be in wellington for a bit and then heading up to Whangarei. Its a shame to pass it on without driving it in anger on a track, but the wagon ruined it for me. I miss the Liftback, it was a far better platform to drive. I never built up any confidence in the wagon, and it wasnt enjoyable to drive. I found it quite funny, I took the Tomcat out for a quick drive after work, and then drove the Carib to meet its new owner. The Carib was such a contrast; the controls were light and easy, but it felt like it was powered by a 500,000KM 4AF. SO slow and gutless around town. On the motorway, up at high RPM, thats where it shines, but otherwise shit it was flat. The Tomcat on the otherhand left me grinning and chuckling like an idiot.
  25. Unfortunately they also chose to use plastic caged bearings in the gearbox, which do not tolerate abuse or lack of lubrication. British leak + plastic cage bearings = disaster. You can strip the box and replace them all with steel case bearings, which helps a lot, but shite its a lot of work.
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