Bearded Baldy

Ahh that makes sense, downloaded the ccm last week but haven't gone through it yet. Figured no point looking at the old ringbinder one in the shed. The local cert guy is about 10 minutes away but is hard to get hold of. So i appreciate all your input @cletus and team.

Hmm 3 thread protusion would stop the rail from sitting flat onto the adaptor... would hope as all threads are cut into the 10mm thick section it will be ok. But common sense and nzta don't really go together.

@Bling counters and caps are all 12.9, wasn't planned that way but that is all they had.

Ok gents, these seat adaptors... Current gameplan is to mount the 10mm packer to the 5mm plate with m8 countersunk screws, screws will be shortened etc etc. The O.E rails to be attached to the packer using m8 capscrews in the original rail holes. And the seat to be attached to the 5mm plate via the seats 8mm studs and nuts. Sound legit?

Sending to my boss.

Your generosity is boundless as ever. Seriously though, i used to dream of building one of these. Can be made in a steel option too... lack of patience and space, mostly patience has always stopped me. Soz for spamming up the thread.

Fuck i love wooden boats. Not owning or building them. But living vicariously through others.... shit yeah!

@rusty360 thanks for the offer man. The engineering outfit i send all our rusty trailer axle jobs to has sussed me a piece. Once i got them to answer the phone lol. Cheers again

Bet they only ceramic coated the body and tray, and left the canopy. Not that car dealers would do such a thing.

@rusty360 legend mate that would be awesome if it works out. Will ring one the local engineers tomorrow and see if i can scrounge some there first though, don't want to put you out.

Found some nuts that measure in at 9.8mm which gives this much gap. Which means some 10x30x100 packers will be perfect. Now to find somewhere to sell me half a metre and not a minimum 3metre length.

Making progress on the seat rails, but i made a rookie mistake with the fact the slide levers face up not down from the rail, so need to pack the rails away from the adaptors. Strongest way is putting a length of 25x10 bar in between the rail and adaptor, but my usual suppliers will only sell me a half length. At 3m long. Will make do with stacks of washers for now to test the theory.

Was doing a remeasure of the seat base tonight and noticed the front studs on the drivers seat were bent. Standard B series falcon problems, cracked base on both sides. Simple to weld up, have done a few over the years. So i removed the base and stripped it down ready to go. Picking up some steel tomorrow to dummy up the rail adaptors. Will see how distracted i get at the engineers.

Got the seats home. The internet rumours of the old rails bolting to the new front seats is a lie. To use the front holes everyone talks about would be dodgy as shit, and that is coming from someone who has done their fair share of such things. After hitting up the cert thread i have a gameplan to try on the fronts. Ditching the BA rails and seatbelt buckles is first up. Rears will be a whole new level of dumbfuckery but one step at a time. Look good sitting roughly in place though. Side bolsters are the worst fitting part but possibly the easiest to mount and reshape as the are plastic backed.

Nice and flat on the falcon thankfully, looking at it tonight i think i can make something nice out of some 75x50x5 angle steel. Shortening the 50mm side to 25mm should act as a gusset and not hang down looking hori. Using the original xc rails from the car so the floor side of the mountings shouldn't be a problem. Or will they need a plate on the underside of the floor since the seat itself is different?