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About Indiana_Jones

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    and the temple of doom

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  1. Managed to get some work done on the car over the last couple of days, got the wire wheels out in the boot and surrounding area. Boot floor wasn’t looking too bad (not 100% done brushing back in the photo): Slapped some primer on it (there’s one little rust hole near the drain opening in the spare wheel tray, the cap that sat in there crumbled in my hand lol): There is a bit of rust around where the seal/boot lip runs along near the bumper in the middle, so to get a closer look I removed the rear bumper (came off surprisingly easily, after some of the horror stories I
  2. Another small update, got the fuel tank out today (decided I should remove that from the car before I start having sparks flying out). The Haynes book of lies said that you should drop the prop shaft to gain access to the two clips on the fuel line connection at the base of the fuel tank, was not keen on this idea, so I gave connections a wee bit of a tug and they came out. Tank has a bit of surface rust on it, so will get the wire wheel out and investigate further. On that note, what's the safest way to do this? after doing a bit of reading online, at this stage I'm leaning towards
  3. Fun times today, got the rear screen removed. On first sight, it doesn't look as bad as I thought it might have been with regards to rust, but will get the wire wheel out on the weekend and start some proper prodding.
  4. Brakes still giving my grief, so while browsing online I came across someone selling an apparently NOS accumulator (part No. JLM 11659), it was manufactured in 2000, according to the box. Grabbed it, because it was $50 and figured I might as well give it a punt. So got a chance this weekend to do the swap, removed the accumulator, valve block, pressure/charging switches and mounting bracket (items 1 through to 5 in the diagram below). Here's the old assembly in place: After it was removed (wasn't too hard to remove, just need to jack up the
  5. Thanks for that sr2, appreciated, will give that method a go the next time I get a chance. Also glad to hear that it should be separate to the booster system, as you do see mention of it, but by my logic that shouldn't be so.
  6. Thanks for the input chaps. Yeah the method being done is where one person is at the brakes, the second person pumps up the brakes, holds the pressure. Then the person at the brakes opens the nipple, with the second person holding the pedal down. The first person closes the nipple off and then the second person removes the pressure on the pedal. I did give the MC a bleed before I proceeded onto the main system, but I'll double check. Also I saw Dicksmith had a vacuum bleeder on special, looked like a cheapie job, but given the price it might be worth a punt. Taistorm, yeah th
  7. Hi all, Just thought I might pick some brains here, currently trying to sort out the brakes on the XJ40, which the VCM is telling me has low pressure and the pedal does sink down a bit. I've rebuilt the master cylinder (which the bore of looked to be in fairly good nick to me) as well as replaced the front flexi-lines. I've bled the brakes a couple of times, using the 2 man method, but for some reason, I still getting the low pressure. I've given the pedal on over night a whirl, but no joy. Given that I'm getting low pressure at the start and not after multiple applications of t
  8. XJ40 forum you say? well I guess it is just a 2 door XJ40 puhuhuh
  9. Did a bit more prodding around. Read somewhere online that leaving the brakes on overnight would work wonders in removing air in the lines, but I have my doubts about that claim, but figured at least it might highlight any weak spots / leaks in the system. The next day I took a look, the brakes were still sinking, but I did find a possible leak/source of the problem: the driver's side front wheel, there was a little bit of fluid there, though this may have came from the bleeding process (as there was an incident where the bleed line came off the nipple). So today, I got
  10. Here's the master cylinder rebuild: I won’t go into great depth of each step, as they are quite well covered by various workshop manuals (I referred to the Haynes manual, as well as the instruction from the rebuild kit for guidance). Here is the master cylinder in place in the car, of course to do the rebuild we need to remove it. To remove it, disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder (I used some plastic bags and tape to cover the ends of the lines), but before doing so, remove as much brake fluid as possible from the reservoir (I used a syringe).
  11. Fuck me it's been ages since I posted here, in that time I've had a few hoons in the Jag, but sadly she needs a bit of time off the road for some TLC. She failed a WOF around 10 months back on two items, play in the steering rack and soft brakes. There are some shims /spacers that apparently take up the slack in the steering rack, I installed those soon after the WOF failure, but haven't had a chance to test her on the road yet. The second one has proved more annoying, I have tried bleeding brakes several times, but no joy. The pedal has been going to the floor if I sit on it,
  12. Been a while, work and house etc getting in the way. Having issues with the brakes, VCM is saying low pressure and the pedal is sinking to the floor. I've bled the system and I'm fairly confident there's no air in it. I think the fluid is going down after using the brakes, but can't see any obvious signs of leaks under the M/C or from the pedal box (but will double check). Is this a Master Cylinder failure? or perhaps a failure in pressure switch where the brake booster/accumulator meets the brake lines? New accumulator sphere needed? Thought I'd post this here, to see if anyon
  13. Not sure if anyone on OS has one, but I think the Wolseley club might have one (not sure where). That said, there are ways to make homemade pumps.
  14. Fuck yes, love these. A shame they never made an 1800 version!
  15. Keep chippin' away at it, it's the only way to get closer to driving it!
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