mikey

I hurriedly drew up some CV spacers and sent them off for cutting without wasting time with things like mockups or physics or safety. They came up okaaaaaaay, bit thin in places. I'll use these for now and get some beefier ones cut in the meantime. Ideally on a mill rather than water-jet. Did a skid and nothing fell off

I've had a tiny amount of play in my rear wheel bearings so decided to rebuild my whole rear-end New CVs, bearings, aftermarket stub axles & companion flanges to take a 108mm CV. Old vs new stub axles. They have a larger splined diameter and are beefier at the wheel flange. This now shifts the weakest point in the driveline to my r180 diff, but it should be good enough for my engine. I also replaced all diff seals & o-rings so hopefully it stops leaving little puddles on the floor now. I couldn't get a micrometer inside the hubs to confirm, but

Simples!

Never mind, I used my neighbours press. Thanks guys.

Anyone near Mount Eden able to lend me 5 mins of your press? Don't make me resort to whacking them on

Good ideas guys. After flicking thru that Muff thread, I'm guessing the advice is stick to 3"? If so I could possibly keep my current muffler and just try a two-into-one in the tunnel. If no good upgrade the final muffler. Starting to sound like a plan

Yeah, just been going through their catalogue. They look pretty good. I'm just not sure if I should have a resonator in the tunnel or a muffler. I'm fine if the car is pretty quiet, so am leaning towards a proper muffler. But not if that'll mean it's "drone-y"?

Yeah man, has been yonks! I've not had a garage for a long time so not been able to get into any car stuff for aaaages. Yep, space is definitely the issue. I like the sound of putting a proper muffler in the tunnel, I'll investigate what space I have there. There's not much space to fit a muffler on the opposite side from current as the fuel tank takes that side. So I think I'll be limited to just the two. Will arrange as much pipe as possible after the final muffler. Sounds like 2.5" should be plenty for a stock VQ35, I'm guessing the smaller diameter makes for a less

Hola guys. I'm keen to redo my exhaust to give more ground and tunnel clearance, plus make it a quieter. I know, uncool. The engine is a VQ35DE - Nissan V6, in a 240z. This is a pic of the exhaust when it was made. It's got some cheap XForce headers into two 2.5", into those resonators then goes to 3" and out an offset oval muffler of some sort. I can't find the deets on that; it was from Wolfe Mufflers. Those resonators knock against the tunnel and scrape along the ground. So I'm keen to ditch them, or replace with one I can tuck higher in the tunnel, depending on

So, I'm doing a bunch of stuff to this to make it a nicer car to drive around in. It's pretty noisy, fumy, rattly, leaky & clunky. Nothing too major, just redoing some bits and pieces I should've done better first time round. Right now I'm replacing some diff seals and sorting out some exhaust knocks. This is a pic of the exhaust when it was made. It's got some cheap XForce headers into two 2.5", into those resonators then goes to 3" and out an offset oval muffler of some sort. I can't find the details on that, it was from Wolfe Mufflers. Those hotdogs knock agains

No way! Good luck. I took mine for a ride yesterday. Taupo is probably pretty good for a Prima so long as you avoid the hills; they sure are guttless.

It was as simple as glazed shoes I just hit them with a Scotch Brite pad and brake cleaner and now they feel great What a muppet. I figured glazed shoes would cause the opposite of grabbing, which is why it took me so long to work this out

Oh, those pads were replacements put on by Sterling Brake & Clutch about 9 years ago. The original ones are riveted, these are bonded.

So.... dem brakes. They look simple enough, but something ain't right. With a light touch on the brake lever they grab hard and the front springs bottom-out violently. This is all the tech info I have. I suck at drum brakes. I really really do. HALP!! There's no signs of anything weird from what I can see. All I can think of is that maybe the drum grabs the leading edge of the shoe and spreads the shoes so they grab harder?

So. Pulled the Dynastart field windings apart and found they were oil soaked & shorting to ground. Tidied up, replaced all wires & bushes & sorted out the rust. The points look a bit shit, but the contacts are basically new. I fixed up the auto-advance too, so will stick with points for now. I could feel a bit of "backlash" in the flywheel, turned out to be a shagged small end bush. Spare parts are hard to come by, but I had a spare engine so recycled the bush out of it which was still in spec. A bit agricultural, oh well. Bore is okay.

Oh, if anyone has some suggestions for some sort of electronic ignition for a single cylinder that has timing advance and just works off the battery i.e doesn't involve adding extra coils please let me know.

Because Lockdown, I've pulled this out from the pond under the house. It's been there for about 4 years making close friends with some rust and spiders and mold. Last time I was bumbling around with it it had a couple of issues. The biggest one was the Dynastart, which is a dynamo that you can also use as a starter motor. It worked once in a blue moon, so I'd have to crash start it. So that's top of the list. Other things to fix; the front brakes lock-up when the front suspension starts compressing, this is great lols. The timing advance seems beyond repair with rust, I'd like to m

<br \><br \><br \> <br \><br \><br \>https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010<br \>This was where I got it from. Shipping was damn pricy! But worth it in terms of amount of time fucking around making my own rubbish version. <br \>

Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3

So yeah. It was just manky old fuel. Lesson learnt there; drain you crabs and use fresh fuel if it's been sitting over winter. Also, testing for spark with dirty plugs can lead to false-positives. Thank for your help @aja540i

Yeah, I think it maybe as simple as this. I mixed some new fuel in with it, but this could be my fail. I'll get a new plug and check the spark. If I have spark put new fuel in it.

That's what the DVA is for - it will hold the peak voltage long enough to measure it on the meter. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I've tested the test-plug on my car and get a yellow spark across it. I would've thought I should get a bright blue spark on my car - so maybe the test plug isn't so great... I should grab a new plug for testing. The plugs in the engine are around 4 years old and look a bit manky. Could also be they're all wet from trying to start with old fuel...

Not exactly car - but it is old school! I've got a 1984 Johnson V4 2-stroke outboard with no sparks anywhere. If I hook up a timing light it gets triggered okay. I've followed the tests in the manual and these all checked out: Jumpered the Powerpack connectors excluding the kill switch Sensor Coil Resistance Sensor Coil Short Charge Coil Resistance Charge Coil Short These next tests are supposed to be done by measuring peak voltage which my meter doesn't have so I measured AC instead. Charge Coil output should be 150V - I got 95VAC Sensor

Yikes, over a year since I've done anything on this! That's mostly because I have *no* garage which is a very sad state of affairs. Well, I have just done a little something, and I'm quite happy with it thanks. And also, working outside in the sunshine is actually awesome. I've never loved the factory rear drum brakes; I could never adjust them properly so the handbrake would work, but not drag. So I decided to do something about and do it for basically nothing. I was given some EL Falcon single-piston callipers, rotors and backing plates years ago. The backing plates were drilled out t

Well that worked out well! I've just been for the first ever hoon in this car with NO driveline vibration. Like ZOMG stoked. 240z's are renowned for vibrations as the diff is set too far forward in the car so the axles have to bend in two axes; up-down and front-back. Datsun fixed this in the 260z by moving the diff farther back. So no amount of replacing UJs or making new diff mounts ever seemed to help. Until now! And I hate replacing UJs anyhow so it's great to get rid of them, and get a much stronger axle. The axles all clipped together and went for a burn out west and it mos