Rookie

Conviently the Germans have created a standard for automobile wiring so you don,t have to guess. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_72552 The 31b pin is indeed a swiched ground, which as correctly stated by the metricnut would only work with points trigger wire.

There is one there now, it aint realy pretty but considering it was 8 weeks drive in drive out its acceptible. Its only a c10, if you want more payload look for a c20 or c30, basically they made a truck to suit all needs. the ECU is like any standalone, but Baldur supplies a great base map which you could definitely just drive, it is actually what I have been using up until now with only a few modifications to suit my setup. as for wiring and shit, it is pretty simple, you can look up the DID1 handbook and see if you want, but basically just a list of positions of wires on the stock ECU connector and the pin position on the new connector. You have to figure out fuel delivery and fuel pump relays , and key positions and shit, but nothing you wouldnt have to do with any other engine swap. If you want to do things even easier find a OM613, basically the same engine, but just the generation before, then you can just plug and play the ecu if you order the one with the OM613 pinout.

OK, so this is where the story of how my current situation came to be. I was pretty happy with how the truck ran, towed and hauled, but if we rewind to summer last year, I took one of my mates here to see the Malmo race day of the Swedish event StreetWeek, which is a drag and drive event run every year throughout different routes in Sweden. Anyway we floated the idea of participating, I threw it out there that we should use the truck, then I thought a bit more, decided I didnt really want to turn my daily into a drag car, then we ummed and arhhed about buying a 25.5 rolling chassis doing a sloppy LS and going for gold, but the rules to get modified cars street legal (requirement for running StreetWeek) here are dumb so we then put a pause on that idea, at that is bascally where we left it for 6 months. Anyway so I was just randomly doom scrolling Insta on a sunday night and there was a post about getting ready to sign up for StreetWeek on the coming Tuesday.. So I hit up old mate and said, shouldn't we just try and get a spot then figure out the rest after. Tuesday rolls around and I'm sitting at my computer like a Swifty trying to get a ticket, and low and behold we got one. So now this summer we are doing a drag and drive event that will take us some where 5 hours north of Stockholm. One issue though, the truck whilst a great daily does not a drag car make... Enter Phase 2. Basically to get 500 hp out of one of these things isnt too difficult. The formula is pretty tried and true: Big HPFP custom Injectors, and enough air to burn all that diesel effectively. So out came the Injectors to be sent to Diesel Mekken in Sweden, they should flow around 185mm3 @ 1400uS when I get them back. Next on the list was to remove all the things that we wont be using, and seeings as I already had the injectors out removing the rocker cover makes modifying the front cover for the 400cdi pump easier. The gasket was also leaking so it was a no brainer. This is what I found, notbad.jpg for 500,000km It is almost as if Mercedes themselves planned this, because the holes are all there to mount the bigger pump, just a matter of a bit of a trim on the front cover and everything bolts up. After removing one of the idler pulleys and trimming the oil filter and thermostat housings the everything is good to go. So all in all a win. Next on the list is building the new turbo manifold, it is going to be a compound setup with the HX40 over the stock GT2356, so hopefully I dont lose too much drivability.

Yo, Long time no see, I figured that because im about to embark on phase 2 of this heap that I should probably make one of these. Anyway, I needed a new daily so I went shopping and found this sweet 82 long bed, I was after a long bed specifically as I needed/wanted it for my shop truck to haul choppers round with. The 350 had a sweet cam and gear drive so it sounded cool and had the requisite chop chop but the 4km/l fuel consumption meant that the daily part of the new car purchase didnt work quite so well. Luckily I had done my due diligence before the purchase and also bought a 2005 Mercedes Benz E320 cdi. Anyway @98cc hit me up and said he wanted to come visit so I put him to work and we pulled the 350 out and swung the OM648 in. Then at some point a @peteretep came and visited so we did some more work, anyway, I had a deadline, I made it, the truck got its maiden voyage with its new motor around Norway chasing a bunch of bikers, good times. Basically the rundown of the swap were: OM648 3.2l inline 6 diesel, the same one the Blacksmoke Racing dudes use. Baldurs Control Systems DID1 stand alone ECU 722.6 Mercedes 5 speed Auto with lockup OF Gear TCU 3 inch intercooler Built 10 Bolt with 30 spline axles, 9 inch housing ends and bearings, Eaton Trutrac and 3.08 gears. At this point it turned into my summertime daily and did truck things Then doing the usual facebook marketplace thing late at night I found a truck camper for sale, so of course I had to have that... At this point I found the limit of the 1/2 ton suspension so with the camper and the 6/8 drop that it has, so I had to do something, I made a bag over leaf setup in the back to help with load carrying capabillity. So about here is up to date, the engine swap is legit, it now gets 14 km/l and will happily cruise at 120 on the highway, because of the 8 foot bed it hauls all manner of things without asking, and does a skid. Discussion

Talk shit here...

@Beaver Cheers Bro

@Truenotch Sweet!

@Beaver Yea mate I'm in, I am still looking for a bed on the second night.

@datlow Sweet Man, That would be great. I'll pm you for deets.

What's this marlarky?!?!?

Sweet Deal Boys, I'll get on it. @HighLUX Yea mate, if you have a spot going i'm in.

OK, so I'm keen, I pulled Maria's YB100 out of the shed and it runs, so I will give it a tickle up and get it legel Beagle. Is the first page a good indication of whats going on, or can someone give me a tl,dr? Also, Is anyone going through Taupo that might have space to get the bike to Whakachangi? I'm happy to pay gas etc.

Dave, you have basically confirmed the reason you tune itbs alpha n instead of map, good jerb.

Oh ok fair enough hahahah

What rocker ratio and seat pressure are you running that needs 1/2" push rods? We have big blocks and hemis running 4-500 pound seat pressure on 7/16" push rods, so unless you are even close to that 3/8" should be fine.

If you have no money then start reading and do it yourself, there isn't much too it if you follow the instructions, but beware that it is like physics, in that if you just know how to plug numbers into formulas, but don't really understand why, then you will have a much harder time making it work than if you spent a bit of time to learn what each thing actually does.

I'm not sure I would restrict the overflow of the surge tank, if that is what you are talking about?

But Good job on checking the simple shit first.

Also, I might have jumped the gun, I forgot you are running a MS!, so I don't think it can do PWM fuel pump control, soz babe.

A fuel cooler is definitely not needed for an application like this. As for how to fix it, my bet would be running another fitting into the fuel tank and plumbing the return in there. Your MS should also be able to control the fuel pump with the built in PWM so hook that shit up too, as it makes a diference on over pumped cars. Also to answer your question about fuel pump voltage making a difference, yes, it makes a huge difference and will effect your fuel pressure significantly, which you should be logging is you aren't already. Use the technology Alex!

Good catch bro, it is indeed 7/8"-14

Hey man, it is just an end mill with the tip ground down to a pin so there is no flutes there and it acts as a guide, you buy them,they aren't cheap, but they are the right tool for the job, the one you want in this case is a 10mm pin and 13.5mm cutting diameter. Order of ops is Pilot hole of your preferred size 10mm hole all the way through 13.5 mm end mill down to say 1/2 depth Deburr and chamfer both outside and inside. I do it all in the drill press so I can use the depth stop for the endmill, (the last set I did were for a v10, so having all the holes at the same depth made it easier for mounting the injectors) and use a digital angle finder to set it up level in both directions, but if you were careful I don't see why you couldn't do it all with a cordless hand drill.

I do this reasonably often at work, you just tap it with a 7/16-14 thread (which is an10) straight into the alloy and use a 10mm hole to pilot the injector holes for a 13.5mm pin guide end mill ( not all the way through of course) to make sure you get a nice surface finish for the injector orings to seal on.

Which is great when you can adjust the spring rate, but seeings as this is "airbag chat" and an airbags spring rate is dependant on pressure, which also happens to be dependant on height, then you realise that slammed = low spring rate, hence the question to other airbag users...

Seems odd, but you should definiely sort out the 10v issue before you go any further, you should see battery voltage on the positive side of the resistor, also flick your voltameter to resistance and measure whe the ballast is sitting at.