Kimjon

I've got a fuel pump you can have, probably what's already on yours. It uses case pressure to pump the diaphragm. Same as this: https://m.banggood.com/Pulse-Vacuum-Fuel-Pump-For-Mikuni-Honda-Odyssey-Arctic-Go-Kart-Single-Outlet-DF44-211-p-1141375.html?gmcCountry=NZ&currency=NZD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_union&utm_content=zouzou&utm_campaign=ssc-nz-all-july&ad_id=353641305054&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiZPvBRDZARIsAORkq7dP97LhoWye8IAC54-Ao0urHF-qILmYfs21fodCZzZyYjZVnwGdaIMaAn7KEALw_wcB I brought 2, but only used one on Naomi's drift trike so I could mount the tank below the carburetor. Just put a T in the feed line so excess fuel can find it's way back to the tank. Here if you want it...

No stress mate, if you need them use em. Otherwise your tanks here when you need it. I've got some pocket bike tyres here that are probably better quality than the ones you got. Welcome to search through my shit here and see if you can find anything that's of use?

Seen that for sale, be interesting how it goes for you?

Solved the main oil leak mystery And with a free gasket courtesy of Mike, the motor now appears to be free of annoying oil leaks.

Small win...glovebox light now works

Took it for a thrash around a very winding bumpy road today. Bump stops are brilliant now, don't even notice them coming into play...but zero guard rubbing now. My steering limiters were a bit too big, so I've dropped out the extra nut. Works sweet! So overall, greatly improved things from how they were.

Terrible photo, but you get the idea. The bump stop is 1" (25.4mm) wide, so some heavy walled SHS at 25mm x 25mm was doubled up and stitch welded together to give me a very strong 25mm x 50mm spacer block to fit under it. I've drilled corresponding holes right through to match the bump stops and it should just bolt right in. I may upgrade the bolts to the next size up...ummm just because.

I think I've got it right after looking at this morning after a good nights sleep. I was super tired = brain stopped working... The impala has 2" drop spindles, hence the reason it's having issues. Plus wider tyres aren't helping either. I'm not sure on the amount of squish I should allow on the stop itself? This is what they look like. About 50mm high by 25mm wide (I'm guessing those numbers, but will be very close). How much do you think these are likely to deform by? Mathematically I need 35mm packers under the stops to make contact before the wheel hits the guard. But that doesn't allow for squishing of the stop. Heavy walled SHS comes in 25mmx25mm, so I'm thinking of stitch welding two bits of this together, one on top of the other. This would make a very strong spacer at 25mm x 50mm with a double gusset in the middle to strengthen it up. At 50mm, it would allow up to 15mm of squish which sounds about right to me? Thoughts????

Yes. It takes a big hit to make it happen, but it can.

What I'm trying to explain in above, is 45mm of movement at the bump stop, equals 80mm of wheel travel at the outer edge. So if I have an 80mm gap at the bump stop point, before bump stop contacts, then 80-45mm=35mm packer required. May as well make it 50mm to allow for squish of rubber?

I'm hoping for it to be this easy? Is it just a simple lever arm ratio?

Balls...3hrs of my life I'll never get back.

My certifier said yes; so I had to make some up, as they weren't available in the sizes I needed. My friend has an HK Monaro and his rear axle has nowhere to put locating rings on the hubs (hilux diff conversion), so his certifier said he didn't need them.

For some weird reason the lower two bolts holding the steering box had crush tubes, but the top bolt didn't? This was pinching the chassis rail inwards...not cool!!! So I turned up a crush tube on the lathe, gave it a nice 45° chamfered edge to take a weld and solved that problem. So, my to do list from the certifier is getting smaller by the day. A couple loose ends to tidy up here and there...but pretty much done.

The steering stops had previously been cut a lot shorter by someone else to allow for a better turning radius (weirdly impalas aren't renowned for their nimbleness...go figure?). However, my wheels were hitting the inner guards long before the stops where anywhere near touching - in fact the steering arms were about 15mm short of the stops! So a bit of creative thinking to turn this situation around and turn it into a positive... by using a bolt inserted into the stop, I now have adjustable steering stops...yay!!! If only every problem could be solved for 50 cents like this one... I'll chuck some more weld in there later to tidy it up (more a vanity thing) to create a captive nut that wont turn, its mechanically locked as is... so it's not going anywhere. The other nut is free to turn and will be locked up (basically a double nut) when I find my maximum turning arc without rubbing the tyres.