Kimjon

Perfect! I'm just out of Cambridge (rural) about 5 minutes from karapiro. I'm sure we can figure it out?

Just dug it out. Or you can have the ducks arse harley fender off an old sporty for free if you like that style?

Hey man, looking good! I'd you want a rear fender, I've got a 1935-40 Ford rear wheel cover that I'd trade for a box of beer. Like this (but about 60% of the circle left, as I used the 40% bit on mine). https://picclick.com/1930s-40s-WHEEL-COVER-FORD-CHEVY-BUICK-Continental-303020313089.html These fenders are highly sort after and have become the go-to for old school harley dudes. I hunted for one for years, turning out very hard to find one in NZ. But i got lucky one day. This is what it looks like on a bike: The left over bit is still in original oxide red primer. It's in better condition than the bit I used...usual story, use bad bit for practice...then it turns out looking sweet...so leave it on there. Anyways if that happens to be what you're after...let me know? If you're looking for a different look...no stress.

Awesome day...bumped into some oldschool.co.nz members, great bunch of guys, but nursing some killer hangovers from the night before. Browsed, brought, ate, got fried in the sun...brilliant day! Random thing...my phone has a step counter: Turns out we did a lot of walking at kumeu!

Not sure why it's rusting under the paint. But I wouldn't use the product for anything valuable. Will stick to etch primer and 2K from now on.

I thought that too...But where the rust had little to no prep done, it's rusted the worst by far. I wasn't expecting it to work to be honest...But thought I'd share the photos. It's only visible due to it been clear, otherwise you'd think it was perfectly fine as the surface still looks fine.

Come on...at least write something funny on them?

Finally; this part was covered in flakey paint and old rust. I hit it with a flap disc until it all looked shiny...But it wasn't the best of jobs I'll admit. However according to por15 it would just about stick to anything and prevent further rusting...so this was overkill preparation. Interestingly enough, if it was black colour...I'd think it was doing it's job. The por15 looks perfect from the outside, no cracks, no chips, no hazing...nothing at all to show it's defective on the outside. It's only because I used clear, that I can see the rust growing underneath. If it was black...I would be totally unaware of any issues.

Next up is some metal that was prepped much the same way, but obviously no as well. You can see the rust growing underneath the clear. It's like a spider web....and each month I see it spreading further.

I'm prepared to be shown the errors of my way, but here is some photo's I thought may entertain you all. Why por15? Well online it's touted as the best thing to use on the likes of chassis, fuel tanks, engine mounts...all those places that rust really easily under the car. It's said to love rust, basically stick to it and protect it from deteriorating further etc. Apparently you don't need to put a lot of effort into prep work which is another big plus. This bike fork is looking mint, about a year on from clear coating in por15. This was sanded back with a flap disc to bear metal...then painted in por15. Looks mint, but so it should. I'd expect the same result from any normal paint too. It's kept under a cover, so no uv light can get at it, as I was told por15 doesn't like sunlight. I didn't really expect this to last in all honesty and always had my doubts about doing it like this with no etch primer...But thought these results may deter anyone who's thinking of brushing this on their chassis (in the same product, but probably with black tint in it) and calling it job done.

That's pretty open. Unlikely to really improve braking performance. ..but a heap easier to service and get parts for.

The disc brakes...do they need to be certified too? Or because you've used stock spindle can you get away without cert?

So I learnt how to do epic wheelies on this thing. Basically go half throttle to just touch on powerband...back off...hit it hard again...and fuck yeah! Did this all day long until...fail!!! Yip, no rear brake means no way of saving it once you go too far. Managed to fuck myself and the goped up pretty well. The brake caliper = total right-off, buy another one. Exhaust = do it all again...fucked! Front brake disc = badly buckled and miss shaped. So I bent the disc roughly into shape...then did this to get it pretty good: Finished it by mounting wheel back on and then rotating it inside the new brake caliper and taping it over little by little until no rubbing sound occurred within a nice tight gap. Mint as bro!

I like the glass half full outlook you have...nice one

I'm pretty sure that my floor is only 100mm with steel reinforced concrete. Think I'm fucked here...might have to cut out a section and reinstate it, but thicker.