Kimjon

Okay, after literally hours of interweb reading I'm slowly becoming more enlightened. The penny dropped when I discovered that there are 2 ways/types of pcv valve, both ways essentially achieve the same thing. 1) a tapered shaft, which restricts flow at high vaccum and allows more air to pass at low vaccum. 2) an upper and lower seat, does same as above. So at high rpm, low vaccum the valve flows heaps. At low rpm, high vaccum the flow is severely restricted. Which brings me to size? I hear it really does matter...well that's what my wife says. But how big??? If it was fuel injected the extra air fluctuations are accounted for by the maf, but for carburetor engines this isn't possible. So I'm guessing the sizing is pretty important? You wouldn't want a mini cooper pcv on a dodge hellcat for example... So more interweb geeking out to come...

Picked up a couple carburetor spacers at kumeu. I've decided to use this one (below). No real reason...but I just like the secondhand one better, it feels solid, with nicer finish and just looks better made to me. I brought a nipple to go into it. Marked out. Drilling it so I breakout the centre of the 2 first holes. My manifold is edelbrock dual plane, so I've drilled and ported so both sides/planes will get the shittyness of the blow-by fumes equally. I used liquid epoxy (cold weld) to seal the 3/8" ID hose to 1/4 BSPT fitting to avoid vaccum leaks. That liquid epoxy is magic stuff, its fuel resistant and I've sealed fittings into petrol tanks and 20 years later not a single leak.

Need an inline pcv and an air filter 1/2" lower to avoid potential issues with rubbing. But this is the plan for my vaccum source for the pcv.

Soooo... Turned the tig up to "eleventy" and gave it some jandal!!! I ran it over all the mig welds and melted them into the parent metal hard core. Then used a heap of filler to create a 45° web in the highest stress points. I'll smooth the corner fillet weld a touch more with some sandpaper or flap disc (wont need much) and call it done, then send it out for chrome. Actually really happy with it now.

I suspect it brakes in the sharp bend. I was toying with the idea of backing it up with a fillet weld, so this is convenient timing talking about possible cracking issues...so I will do that now as cheap insurance.

How did they fail? Did they crack along a stress line? How did you remedy it? Keen to hear about your situation and how you solved it. I was going to lathe up some round plugs and bend some round bar kind of like this: But by the time I found somewhere for the choke to go, it seemed a waste of time. I may still go down this route, but I'm obsessing over small stuff that really doesn't matter.

Hot metal glue gun action... Bolts are for pussy's!!! Functional, but far from sexy. That probably describes most kiwi woman...and this bracket falls into that category too. I'll get it chromed and it should disappear and not draw attention to itself.

Impala parts. And another angle grinder and a drill...cause I keep breaking them, because they just don't make em like they used to!

Kumeu was still pretty awesome. And I got the swap meet parts I actually needed to buy for once instead of buying random shit I didn't need. But fuck me it was hot! I'm way to ginger to be in the sun all day, think I got my years supply of vitamin D all in one day...

I have that same led stop/indicating light strip and was wondering if it's okay for wofs in nz? I haven't fitted it yet because I have doubts...but keen to hear if it's okay?

I've seen some hard out riders in nz, a dude the other day was doing stand up burnouts down Greenwood street in Hamilton, on his Harley... middle of the day, wildly crossing both lanes and passing cars while smoking the tyres for hundreds of meters up the road! Moments like that I wish I had an SD card in my eyes so I could download it and share it with other people. This dude (YouTube below) gives zero fucks too and shows that often it's more about the rider than the bike. Though I'm sure he could do it even faster on an R1. He's probably dead by now, but fuck he showed commitment!

Fucking around with my exhausts. They are the lowest part of my bike, so I trimmed as much off as possible without ruining the ceramic coated heat shields. The bit sticking out the lower pipe (marked by vivid line in photo above) is now gone. I then measured how much the bike could lean before touching and its approaching 30° from vertical. Doesn't sound much, but then I Google searched a few images and noticed something. This superbike is hard out cornering with a knee down, but the bike itself is probably 45° max from vertical, maybe not even that much? So 30° doesn't seem too bad for a cruiser. But when I do my final assembly I'll look at it again and may get a bit more aggressive with the angle grinder if need be.

Thanks @cletus that's what I thought, but didn't want to be true. I'll machine up a spacer between the carb and manifold and put a hose barb in it to provide the vaccum required. This is an opportunity to make a plastic spacer to help with a slight fuel evaporation issue I have. So maybe kill two birds with one stone.

I put this outrigger on. I think for certification I need to guard the belt drive? Then, I rolled it outside and it stood for the first time in its life on it's own. As a father of 3, I can say that this emotional experience far eclipsed watching my own kids takes their first steps. So close, yet so far away for starting it up.

Is it okay to run the exit end to the air filter above the carburetor? Or do I need to find a port below the carburetor? My air filter has a convenient hole in the bottom lid already that I'd like to use.