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Kimjon last won the day on October 16 2019

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  1. Im a little concerned if the bolt ever fatigued it'll drop onto the tyre. But I think it should grab and rip it out clean...??? The wire (which will be retained inside the fender) will also help hold it in place if it did snap and fall down a little, so maybe I'm over thinking it. I was going to do spot welds, but that could cause alignment issues, as the bolts don't quite sit square on the inner fender. Think I'll just send it.
  2. Made these (x2) in the lathe. They will hold the fender to the struts. The hole is for the wiring to go through, so its hidden.
  3. Fuck yes! So if i had a body I wanted to dissolve in my bathtub...how much would I need? *asking for a friend
  4. @flyingbrickfuck yeah, that would be awesome!! I only need a tiny bit to fill motorcycle battery. Dilution is specific gravity of 1:240 for climates that exceed 25°c and 1:260 for colder. I can order a hydrometer.
  5. I embarrass myself somedays: But it works... I'll try an auto electrician when we get out of lockdown. Hopefully covid doesn't make it into the gangs, or other people who give zero fucks, otherwise this could go on forever...
  6. I contacted seller...they were no help. I brought (new) off trademe and hiding in the text of the add was some small print about some batteries coming without acid. FML Might try tipping some out of an old car battery.
  7. I brought a battery for a vespa, had it couriered to me (due to lockdown) and it arrived dry, no acid. Says to use dilute sulfuric acid with specific gravity of xxxx??? (can't remember). Repco/supercheap don't sell it. Google comes up with 20L containers but fuck all else. Help?
  8. Had a weird situation. I brought 90° fittings for my oil tank, which is normal. But there's not enough space between them to be able to screw them in?? So I had to adapt some fittings to work: This should do the trick.
  9. I had to weld a nut to this stud, to extract it like a bad tooth!! Long story, but the engine steady (mount) can't go over 2 studs in a V formation. So I've replaced with 2 cap head bolts.
  10. Unobtainable bolts (technically a screw, as the thread goes full length) ...no choice but to make them: And all set in place with keeper nut
  11. Then I looked at the oil tank. Brand new item...removed caps...full of rust, metal filings, all sorts of crap and corruption inside the tank. I did 5x rinse outs with petrol. Used about 10L of it. I figure $20 of gas is cheaper than 5K on replacing fucked motor. Here's some of the shit that came out. Harleys have a gravity fed oil system. The filter is on the return line as this is under pressure. The fed line is unfiltered, no oil pressure until the pump. So if I started with shit in the oil reservoir it would go through the motor first!!
  12. Life goals - do a little bit everyday if possible during lockdown. And Pretty happy with that. Ticks a box for cert.
  13. More shit done. This remote oil filter has been a total pain in the arse the entire way through this build. Ive never found a great place to put it, plus each time I do, it ends up in the way of something else later on. So I think I've found a new home for it: Brackets getting made Welded Boom!! In position, nicely hidden behind transmission. It unscrews with room to clear the belt, frame, transmission and fender. Any oil should fall straight down (into a waiting catch pan) with nothing in its way. So I think this may be the best place I've tried to date?
  14. Then drilled a 4.5mm hole into my headlight and put a small but very bright LED light in there, just below the high beam indicator light. The oil pressure switch is wired up to this LED. so if oil pressure is low it will light up the LED. The positive lead goes to the light filament (center contact). The ground portion of the light bulb goes to the switch (oil pressure sending unit). The switch is normally closed. Turn ignition on and the "OIL" light comes on. Start engine and the oil pressure "opens" the circuit, making the light go off.
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