Kimjon

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Everything posted by Kimjon

  1. Is your temp gauge reliable? My LT1 motor into a VN commodore conversion had massive overheating issues, I did everything you could think of and couldn't solve the problem... Then out of desperation I purchased a cheap temp gauge from repco and hooked it up. Yeah...turns out I was trying to solve a problem that didn't exist. It was the original temp gauge that was the problem.
  2. Improvements made to bracket. Looked "a little heavy" for my liking...so off to Jenny Craig's she goes! Nice hole, with a cheeky peek up her skirt. Rounded all the corners with a generous radius. Ready for paint now. Much happier with its appearance. If something is ugly, it's best to not draw attention towards it, so by doing these extra steps hopefully it'll become less visible and go unnoticed.
  3. A small package with lots of mandarin writing on it that I can't read arrived today. I get pretty dam excited by these, it's like Christmas everytime...as I've usually long forgotten what it could be inside, so its always a fun surprise opening them up. Ah yes, I remember...a choke cable. No, not the one my wife ordered from the 50 shades catalog (we're still waiting on that one), a choke cable for the harley. Looks easy enough to install, I'll just unbolt the old fucked one and put it back together with the new replacement as it's a direct factory part eh? Ummmm no...no I won't...cunts!!!! Someone in china decided that they'd mix imperial and metric. To be fair Harley's already are, been a mix of American and Japanese parts as is. But then the Chinese get involved in the aftermarket parts world and fuck with it again. Yup, wont fit. My engine steady/choke mount is 5/16UNC in size. The part supplied is M10x1.0!!!! WTF???? Who makes a M10x1.0 bolt for a non specific application??? No one in their right fucking mind is the answer. This isn't the be all in tap and die sets, but its fairly comprehensive. Nope, no M10x1.0 in here, nor in my other 2 tap sets either. So fuck it...drilling it out and getting rid of the thread altogether. I looked at it and thought "hmmm, why does it even matter", it's got a collar on one side and I can use the nut supplied on the other side...then drilled the fucker out to 10mm. And it works perfectly. So problem averted.
  4. My exhaust had a terrible bracket on it that sucked! My OCD couldn't handle the fact that the two pipes weren't parallel. Over a 400mm section where they run along side each other, the gap was out by 10mm from front to back. I saw this as an opportunity to fix two problems. 1) make it look right to the eye 2) raise the lower pipe by 15mm and the upper pipe by 5mm. This will really help with ground clearance, maybe not completely solve it...but certainly won't hurt. So: Marking out, lifting the holes by 10mm. And looking at the pipes for nice sweeping parallel lines. Success!!! So, lower pipe is now 15mm higher than before, with nice clearance around all the bits you don't want a hot exhaust touching. Happy as fuck! I'm probably going to cut the lower pipe mid span and shorten it by about 40mm to bring it inline with the upper pipe and my frame angle where it heads up to meet the axle. But that can wait for another day.
  5. Fuck yes! The pcv valve solved so many problems. 1) oil leak from rear of engine, where old road draft tube was = gone! 2) Stinky engine smell that permeates the cabin = gone! 3) heat sink to carburetor issues causing fuel evaporation = gone! Well my 20km return trip with 4 stop/starts didn't have any issues, so maybe prematurely judging this one...but I'm calling it a win. I ended up blocking the road draft tube hole and using a more traditional setup out the valve cover. Main reason was due to oil separation. Someone removed the can inside the valley that separated oil from gases prior to exiting the road draft tube. They did this to fit the edelbrock manifold. If I used this port without the separator I'd suck shit tons of oil out this port and into my carburetor. So I went to the rocker cover, as it has a splash guard in place already for this purpose. Makes you wonder why modern cars don't use a pcv valve system...oh, hang on...
  6. Made this today, I'm testing out a potential offset option. Only way to see if my idea is heading in the right direction is to mock up a wheel with this to check clearance. And offered up to the rear hub Boom! Like a glove!!! Theres still 10 plus turns of thread engagement on the wheel studs, so pretty happy with that.
  7. Okay, after literally hours of interweb reading I'm slowly becoming more enlightened. The penny dropped when I discovered that there are 2 ways/types of pcv valve, both ways essentially achieve the same thing. 1) a tapered shaft, which restricts flow at high vaccum and allows more air to pass at low vaccum. 2) an upper and lower seat, does same as above. So at high rpm, low vaccum the valve flows heaps. At low rpm, high vaccum the flow is severely restricted. Which brings me to size? I hear it really does matter...well that's what my wife says. But how big??? If it was fuel injected the extra air fluctuations are accounted for by the maf, but for carburetor engines this isn't possible. So I'm guessing the sizing is pretty important? You wouldn't want a mini cooper pcv on a dodge hellcat for example... So more interweb geeking out to come...
  8. Picked up a couple carburetor spacers at kumeu. I've decided to use this one (below). No real reason...but I just like the secondhand one better, it feels solid, with nicer finish and just looks better made to me. I brought a nipple to go into it. Marked out. Drilling it so I breakout the centre of the 2 first holes. My manifold is edelbrock dual plane, so I've drilled and ported so both sides/planes will get the shittyness of the blow-by fumes equally. I used liquid epoxy (cold weld) to seal the 3/8" ID hose to 1/4 BSPT fitting to avoid vaccum leaks. That liquid epoxy is magic stuff, its fuel resistant and I've sealed fittings into petrol tanks and 20 years later not a single leak.
  9. Need an inline pcv and an air filter 1/2" lower to avoid potential issues with rubbing. But this is the plan for my vaccum source for the pcv.
  10. Soooo... Turned the tig up to "eleventy" and gave it some jandal!!! I ran it over all the mig welds and melted them into the parent metal hard core. Then used a heap of filler to create a 45° web in the highest stress points. I'll smooth the corner fillet weld a touch more with some sandpaper or flap disc (wont need much) and call it done, then send it out for chrome. Actually really happy with it now.
  11. I suspect it brakes in the sharp bend. I was toying with the idea of backing it up with a fillet weld, so this is convenient timing talking about possible cracking issues...so I will do that now as cheap insurance.
  12. How did they fail? Did they crack along a stress line? How did you remedy it? Keen to hear about your situation and how you solved it. I was going to lathe up some round plugs and bend some round bar kind of like this: But by the time I found somewhere for the choke to go, it seemed a waste of time. I may still go down this route, but I'm obsessing over small stuff that really doesn't matter.
  13. Hot metal glue gun action... Bolts are for pussy's!!! Functional, but far from sexy. That probably describes most kiwi woman...and this bracket falls into that category too. I'll get it chromed and it should disappear and not draw attention to itself.
  14. Impala parts. And another angle grinder and a drill...cause I keep breaking them, because they just don't make em like they used to!
  15. Kumeu was still pretty awesome. And I got the swap meet parts I actually needed to buy for once instead of buying random shit I didn't need. But fuck me it was hot! I'm way to ginger to be in the sun all day, think I got my years supply of vitamin D all in one day...
  16. I have that same led stop/indicating light strip and was wondering if it's okay for wofs in nz? I haven't fitted it yet because I have doubts...but keen to hear if it's okay?
  17. I've seen some hard out riders in nz, a dude the other day was doing stand up burnouts down Greenwood street in Hamilton, on his Harley... middle of the day, wildly crossing both lanes and passing cars while smoking the tyres for hundreds of meters up the road! Moments like that I wish I had an SD card in my eyes so I could download it and share it with other people. This dude (YouTube below) gives zero fucks too and shows that often it's more about the rider than the bike. Though I'm sure he could do it even faster on an R1. He's probably dead by now, but fuck he showed commitment!
  18. Fucking around with my exhausts. They are the lowest part of my bike, so I trimmed as much off as possible without ruining the ceramic coated heat shields. The bit sticking out the lower pipe (marked by vivid line in photo above) is now gone. I then measured how much the bike could lean before touching and its approaching 30° from vertical. Doesn't sound much, but then I Google searched a few images and noticed something. This superbike is hard out cornering with a knee down, but the bike itself is probably 45° max from vertical, maybe not even that much? So 30° doesn't seem too bad for a cruiser. But when I do my final assembly I'll look at it again and may get a bit more aggressive with the angle grinder if need be.
  19. Thanks @cletus that's what I thought, but didn't want to be true. I'll machine up a spacer between the carb and manifold and put a hose barb in it to provide the vaccum required. This is an opportunity to make a plastic spacer to help with a slight fuel evaporation issue I have. So maybe kill two birds with one stone.
  20. I put this outrigger on. I think for certification I need to guard the belt drive? Then, I rolled it outside and it stood for the first time in its life on it's own. As a father of 3, I can say that this emotional experience far eclipsed watching my own kids takes their first steps. So close, yet so far away for starting it up.
  21. Is it okay to run the exit end to the air filter above the carburetor? Or do I need to find a port below the carburetor? My air filter has a convenient hole in the bottom lid already that I'd like to use.
  22. Same boat as you. I have knowledge, but no understanding. There's a couple systems. Race car = catch the oil, passively vent the gas through the breather. Or road car; from what I know, at high rpm engines dont make inlet vaccum anymore, so in turn at high rpm the pcv valve stops working, as theres no sucky sucky...so the breather on the catch can, then takes care of this by providing an escape route for the gases to go. At low to mid rpm range like 90% of road cars will drive in, the inlet vaccum will suck these gases through and burn them in the motor, this passage is through the pcv valve. Pcv valves are just one way valves, so flow is restricted in one direction only, it can't go backwards like an open pipe. But yeah, knowing how shit work versus actually having done it are two different things. I've never had to do it...so you're reading the ramblings of a moron.
  23. My vaccum line on the carb is already in use, so I'm struggling to see an obvious place to plumb the pcv valve. If I ran the exit line out the downdraft hole, through the catch can, the to the air filter above the carb with a pcv inline between catch can and air filter...would this do? I'll try sketch it and add a photo to this soon.
  24. The brass plate is an original feature left behind from the cars illustrious past. It was a government owned vehicle, used as a dignitarys car. They were manufactured in Canada, exported to New Zealand as parts, and assembled in either Thames or Wellington. Well that's what I've been told by an enthusiast. The factory righthand drive was a huge appeal to me. Left hook is okay, but righthand drive is just so much better.