tortron

The switch is the fuel solenoid. It should be closed when no power, so needs volts to open the fuel supply The line on the banjo fitting is the return

Check the valve clearance on that one, is it excessive? Might be binding in the guide in certain positions

The British army used Morris minor engines

https://www.carsxhype.com/2012/01/31/this-means-business-kyoei-usas-vip-ls400/ Doing the rest?

Looks like what's under a morrie

Yeah that's a common failure mode of 13 second prius engines

An amr500 will bolt right in that spot

3d printed carbon fibre block (in easy to assemble sized chunks)

Rpm stress test result?

Yeah pretty common

An extra $10 That's one (1) wanker pie!

Oh that looks like a good ride I will look into it Say hi to the aunty's for me Cheers

They have the same as stock Y11 brakes and disks. I got a big list of whats what keep the purity with wingroad parts

Il probably build a dam around it and soak the stem in moreys or atf while I do more important things. By that time il have a working fitting to use and il see what the leak down is. Probably it's an interference engine, but il hold out hope that it hasn't interfered in this case. It doest visually sit any lower than the other valve so it's not sideways at least

Yeah I just bent them all in my truck last week.

Did the valves a little tighter and got it fully up to temp before it started doing it again. With the engine warm I turned it by hand and can repeat it #10 exhaust valve occasionally sticking open. Itl stay down for some degrees more than #9 and then spring back up Don't have a long enough dangle end on my comp tester and leak down tester got cross threaded in the damaged thread of my other Honda. Typical. I'd like to see if its leaking down out of that valve now when closed or if its just sticking I'd really like to not pull the head, gasket in nz is about $550 Ifni can use the American 2.5 head gasket that's about 100. Might check amayama It was kinda gummy and crusty when I first opened it, maybe some varnish moved........ Wasn't doing it when I first got the car but its sat about 6 months since then, maybe even carboned up from short running during mine and previous owners ownership. The plugs are ancient as well. Surely some morey's fed in at 8000 rpm will fix it. Might pull the valve train again and see if I can spot where it's catching. Might just park it back under a tree

Current plan is See if disk rear end actually fits. If it does I will convert the front end to 4x114.3 using Y11 wingroad hubs and spindles. (Y11 AD van are apparently 4x100) this gives you a few bolt on brake options. Can go 4 pot r32. But I will probably go for 11" disks and calipers from a p11 primera (m6, I think this is the one with white gauges/cvt or vvl. Needs 15"wheels). Possible that avenir brakes also bolt on to the Y11 spindle so could also do that and just do a full avenir brake swap. Which would be 11" and twin pot. (bluebird doesn't have abs so would have to rig up the sensor into that, so never mind)

No lifters in the jdm engine It's cam, rockers, valves

Single comment from 14 years ago says can't find settings either, it might be comparable to F or H series which would be about 0.15-0.2in and 0.20-0.25ex

Ideas? I removed the valve cover and put new seal and plug seals in a better looking one I removed the rocker towers and replaced the plug hole o ring under them Pulled the distrubutor and built one out of 2 Problems that happened. 1. The distributors are more or less impossible to get apart having not been touched for 30 years, the magnetic pickup bracket got a little bent in thr process, so isn't perfectly aligned with the magnet. I am certain it's not coliding 2. The distributor only goes in one way on the slotted gear EXCEPT WHEN IT DOESNT There's just enough play it in that the distributor will go back on without forcing it, except the cam and distributor shafts will be aligned off centre. I ran the engine for about 8 seconds before noticing the distributor was dancing in place I Don't think the cam bent or the towers were damaged, it all turns over fine and clearances seem to be consistant 3. There's no data available online at all, even the firing order isn't written anywhere. I have followed some torque values from the American g20 engine (which has hyd tappets) for the rocker towers bolts, which seam to be the same as other Hondas (m6 12n.m m8 22n.m). After the distributor debarcle I took it all off and looked for damage, and then reinstalled and torqued. There's no valve clearance data anywhere so I measured the gaps beforehand have looked at other Hondas of the era. My original measurements seemed to be 0.25 In, 0.35 exh That resulted in that noise within about 10 seconds of running I went off accord clearances. 0.25 in, 0.30 exh. That gave me about 5min before the noise in the clip. I thought it sounded like something hitting the valve cover, I tried the original and then without a valve cover and it's making the same noise - think I will go 0.05mm tighter on the Inlet and see what happens? It's not the noise I'd expect from a not terribly loose rocker. It could be bouncing off the cam? The sound seems to be coming from the #4 valve train area but I can't pinpoint it, sometimes it seems to come from under the injectors/intake. But in saying that before I went a bit tighter on the exhaust clearances it did seem to jump around more and was doing it at idle. I'm pretty confident it's not the sound of a tensioner when I back off the revs TLDR wtf is this noise, how tight do you think I can make these Honda valve clearances.

Found it, and it makes sense I guess Y11 wingroad sr20ve appears to have a 25/55/25 with 42 tooth abs ring Bout 150 each Looks like all the Y10s have the same outer cv splines, so they must use different axles. Early early y11s were just a face lifted y10 as well Not that common engine fitment Seems to also be a Presea PR10 fitment, and sentra/tsuru 2.0 which is what axles all the Americans use for Sr20 swaps. So easy to get

A Dr200 header pipe will fit if you take like half a mm diameter off the sealing part It exits directly into the toolbox but that's not a major While you are at it, put a Dr200 cam in it

Drill it down about 1.5cm and then it just opens with a screwdriver

Aliexpress ones are cheap

Some lighter weight oil next Nathan?