tortron

Yes, but you cut bits that are frowned upon by BIG CERT

They are HAGs Hot Ass Grannies

Tuning Dork

I use those panel drills to start the center They have the correct angle for drilling sheet metal. Run two drills and its ok. Also use the finger sander. Still get 1/3 of those spot weld drills thingos that suck balls and instantly get thrown across the shed

You bench bleed it. Youtube has tutorials. Can do it installed in the car. JIST of it is run some tubing from the front and rear out ports back into the full reservoir

Shit a brick

Nascar rules

Good enough to hold the p51 Mustangs propeller together

Period correct Altezza build

Its a ute with no weight on the back, so when you stop the brake pedal it should immediately lock the rears and pirouette you into the nearest drain (in my experience)

I had to replace my coils anyway (high performance HARLEY) and made new non resistor leads and caps for them (and use resistor plugs) You can test the pill itself, or swap them around

Are your plug caps the type to have a resistor pill built into them? I had 1 fail and 2 intermittent on my fzx750. The intermittent one was like you said, 1 spark and then none

My morrie has 6" unboosted drums front and back When the brakes do work they don't need all that much foot pressure, they were set up with pedal leverage and master/slave diameters to accommodate little old ladies driving to church. I find the brakes are adequate to drive in the country/quiet roads, but modern city traffic makes it untenable. I can stop, but not if you cut in front of me and then slam your brakes on Tldr, you should be able to lock up all 4 tyres on a gravel road without popping a vein

Not much I can tell you that a search for PYE radios Waihi and Akrad won't bring up. Production started about 1945, after getting the roughest kid in town to ride the prototypes and strengthen them where they broke, eventually he was able to ride with his cousin on the back all the way to Waihi beach and back, and that design was the final version. Approx 300,000 were built. Originally the alloy bits were recycled ww2 components

Theres actually also a long and short fan iirc, also a pajero jr fan shroud should fit I may be hallucinating both those things, as I only know buick l200s, but I think I absorbed that info on thr ram50 forum

Ypu might be able to fit a mechanical pump with primer lever. Some of the B series engines came with this setup (a pull ring). Im told the gaskets bolting pattern is the same between the A and B seri3s pumps. So maybe will work with the correct length pumping lever swapped in

3.8 m8

Your carb fuel bowl has a float joggler (not air tight) and probably a small ventilation hole in the lid. So the system isn't vacuum tight. Sometimes fuel will leak out the bottom joiners (usually see some varnish underneath) 3 days to drain the system dry sounds normal? Manual prime pumps were a thing for that reason. My morrie will prime on the electric SU pump for a good few seconds if not been run the day or two before You could stick a vac gauge in the fuel line to check if you think.its that

Inhave had mild steel flanges on stainless tube for like 15 years at this point

This was because RACEBIKE, and a centre stand is heavy Some people also take the sidestand off, but its a real pain to find a tree to lean it on when you need a wee

60kph knocks 2hours off. Sorry FA50s

Average speed of 43kph

I had (and restored) one of those years and years ago. It had the trunk on the back

Got another (well actually 2, I also got one of the double frame Flyers) This one is a Cyclops Australian made, probably 1960s ? At some point they switched from spoked wheels and metal seats to pressed metal wheels and plastic seats. Lots of variations on this model, usually seen with split tubes going to each side of the rear axle. Don't think I have an original picture, but is was $5 at the dump shop, several coats of paint, seat crumbled in half. And then it got worse I had high hopes it was unmolested and straight, just under lots of paint. But turns out it had been diddled several times with layers of brass, stick weld, and jb weld So I made a new one hand hammerd a new center tear-drop, came out pretty smooth really, if i didnt run out of time id have given it another round of smoothing, but nothing some spray primer won't hide Then I 3d printed some new headset bushings And a hand carved wooden seat replacement Vw pearl white (its not pearl its a really a solid bone white) for the wheels and bars, and a custom shed mix of metallic blue i came up with in the shed. Very nice I think, almost matches RAF blue, with some subtle sparkle through it