tortron

not permitted - classed as modifying it. can get duplicate plates https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/licensing-rego/number-plates/ https://consumer.licensys.co.nz/plate-vehicle-details like $30 for standard plates if you can return them

Next question is who would stock a rebuild kit in nz? They are pretty cheap online, so maybe out of aus with fast shipping would be ok

Bosch VE as far as im aware, i dont think i have to fully strip it to do the relevant seals tbh oh lush

oh yeah, its not mine so idgaf, but il have a look at it tomorrow and see what the owner feels about it, probabyl can talk them into it and rockauto some cheap parts yeah i saw how to set it with a dial gauge, that part is pretty easy, was going to barry some scraps together, but borrowing one is way better. any idea on the guts of the pump itself, i figure its more or less the same as a power steering pump in terms of complexity? not found any real good strip downs and reassemblies on youtube, i think i found one on a forum but not looked too hard at it. Way too many co

I have zero experience with dez but from what I have seen I think I can throw a seal kit at an L300s injection pump. (I think there's one seal that tends to be the one that leaks) Can anyone point me towards some info on stripping and reassembling? Removing looks straight forward enough, would I get away with marking the housing to put it back in time?

2k doesn't* need a clear coat * But the clear is sometimes needed for UV protection. You have single stage Paint (just the colour coat) And base + clear Presumably your white is a single

I change my GN oil and filter ever 1000km because I buy a big bot of oil and 50 filters at a time so it works out like $3 per oil change Also I max nang it and blow it up as much as possible, so there is that

Its the metal heating and then shrinking. you can minimise this by doing your tacks far apart, so theres only a little heat in one area at a time, Also by using a compressor and air gun to cool the metal off inbetween tacks sometimes you just have to use a hammer and dolly to stretch the metal back out The good news is that it usually shrinks lower than the surrounding metal, so you can hide it with a little body filler. Dont worry, its ok, unless its a polished baremetal car everyone does it

theres some major barry arguments about dry sanding vs wet sanding if you google this question. my advice is dont think too hard about it, just get the grit in the general zone, and once you have finished sanding - go over it all again (naturally a reminder that im not a car painter, i just paint cars some times)

again. The TDS has all the info you need

i do about 600 for solid colours and 800 for metallics (scotch brite stuff i use has red and grey which are i believe 1000 and 800 respectively)

Your top coat will say what grit it wants to be sprayed over on its TDS you can wet or dry sand. Most high build primers say not to get them wet, but i dont think it really matters as long as the car isnt sitting outside for months before being painted. if you sand it dry, then use dry sand paper (wet and dry will clog up faster)

To clarify what my method there is, I remove the paint from where I'm making the plug weld anyways, so not welding through paint.

Nah it's fine, I actually didn't like the zinc spray at all

https://totalbodyshop.co.nz/products/0af7b240-abd9-11ea-fb5b-359a1351eab3 bonderite/DEOXIDINE all day

The rust converter is probably just expensive phosphoric acid no? the issue will be the paint itself, will take a long time to dry, and even then im sure it never actually dries (rustolem for example has oil in it to stop rust but then never hardens)

i have some pistons/rings/crank etc if you want

Golden boys will get through it

Because wombles complained commodores kept chirping the tyres when leaving the lights

well they are already paid for and installed.

Cool colour man

Could go to one of the beaches you can ride on - muriwai for example i have no running bikes tho

New carbide drill bit will drill through it Id hit it with a 1mm disc on an angle grinder to make a slot and then hammer it with an impact screwdriver

Boiled linseed oil