tortron

It has a 4 wire cable as there's 2 control boards in it. But the two wires can be bridged and connected to 240v as one. (Shown in the manual as ok as 4 or less elements) I ran an AI SIMULATION and wired it up as I drew it and it was happy with all 4 elements at full crank, during a short test at least If I cut an access hole in th3 back of the drawer and use a mirror and hold myntounge just right,I can wire it directly but bugger that

Here's an mspaint diagram

Yes, the house has gas, I want to change to gas cooktop So we got induction

As long as there's iron in them (stainless steel is fine, glass, aluminium, copper doesn't work)

Sparky question Ceramic cooktop is past it and takes like an hour to boil a pot of water Wife has taken it upon herself to order a kogen....... induction cooktop Set up is 32amp breaker to the oven, 3 core wire nutted into the back of it then doubles out the back of the oven and nuts into the cooktop. Induction cooktop has a built in cable that's about 20cm too short to attach into the oven connectors. I took the cover off the underside of the induction cooktop and the cables are spade connectored into the boards. Can I join the cables with a junctionbox behind the built in oven? (Induction cooktop is 7200w, I believe the ceramic is about 6000w)

Should not isn't must not

https://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/649/installing-electric-steering-column

I've always used a razor blade (double edged, shaving one, zero safety just hold the blade)

I looked at it, it's about as good as it will get tbh. I did some port polishing and knife edged the guides which didn't do any seat of the pants improvements. The dr125 heads have bigger valves and a slightly different port angle (they use the big knuckle dome type piston) and although on paper they put out the same power, it feels it flows better in the high rpm to me. The ideal head is apparently the LT185 quad head as its got the biggest valves and some other stuff. But if you have a flat top piston gn then you lose compression ratio and need to swap to a high dome piston. I currently have a dr125 head on mine, I was doing some tests with the 150 kit and some different pistons, it was promising but they all lacked due to not a big enough dome. You could go a couple mm bigger on the intake valve, I have been meaning to do and test it, I did all the measurements and it should be a good little upgrade. The ports were pretty clean, I just did 120 grit and mirror polished the combustion chamber, piston dome, shaped the valve guides and clocked the spark plug to point to the intake valve. Something to do if the engines apart otherwise I wouldn't bother. If you do the dr200 cam (or hotcam) and a direct pull pumper carb you will have a nice snappy response and a noticeable increase in acceleration (not really any top speed increase tho). The other thing that made a big difference was I changed the rear wheel to an 18" from a gt125, I mainly did it for tyre choice,but I guess the overall difference in weight of the wheel and tyre made a big change to how the bike reved up. It also turns in better imo. (All the old dr125 engines are rooted, good luck. I mainly wanted an old one as they have an extra gear and kick start)

You could do a big brake swap from a 90s Nissan, they are around 220 to 240mm generally

It's a drag race so you have to do it in heels

Yeah, do that, probably drop the 0-100 time by 5 seconds

I am using thr hotcams lt230 race cam. There's a couple.levels The worm gear is for the rev counter. I converted to electric gauge. A dr200 cam is a good easy to get upgrade, it's a little less duration than the hotcam I have. The higher stages needed upgraded valve gear (that they also sell) but might have wanted a modified piston. I would do the cam over a china big bore, in my testing they put out about the same power difference but the cam is more.reliable. Also I ordered several aliexpress race cars and they either never showed up or were standard cams

@mlracing.co.nz Yes, I saw a jig from a wheel place come up for sale a year or two ago. It was just a grinder mounted to a stand and a hub welded to it, you could slide one half back or forward to align the disk on the rim Not totally dissimilar to this

Chassis wax might also do thr job of sticking something g down

Is there a chance the head will bend? Not on your life my Mseries friend

Looks like a triang I have this leftovers from the triang I cut up for the trailer, but looks like a smaller wheel? If you want it you can have it I think you will find one, I have seen quite a few old triangs come up.

Get me a good photo of the sticker you want bud

Time delay relay https://www.mrpositive.co.nz/automotive-30a-12v-timer-delay-relay https://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/relays-flashers/time-control-relays/12v-5-pin-time-control-unit-with-pick-up-delay-2010a.html Adust from 0 to 999 seconds i think Or you can get little boards that do.th3 same thing

Titanium GN stroker conrod sound good, and probably the same price as NOS short boi rods

Yea its the first one, kneecapped by greed being locked to pre-programmed cartridges, and then suing anyone making decent software for it. Not anymore tho

The trick is getting it perfect off the gun, works for me/I'm due some new glasses This paintjob reminds me of a car I used to see years ago, it was something similar.

I'm about $50,all in. Lots of $1 reserve and $5 here and there, about 35 for the laptop Will use my pc for design work and transfer it over just for cutting probably. It's a bit nicer to use for that stuff. Main issue was getting the software to run by itself without me having to watch it. Doesn't like Windows 10 even in compatability mode, xp is fine, and the cutter seems to work a lot faster and smoother too