tortron

Bit wet out to paint today, so I took all the tiny dings out of the cab end panel Shrinker discs how good The big one is a beast to use, but covers a big area quick, and it's really hard to mess up

Coil could be starting to go, sounds similar to the issue I had with Morrie once

Painted everything that would be inside a seam the other day, put the floor corners on today, I think you can see which holes were factory and which ones i made for the plug welds, tempting to fill them all in and measure them all out, not going to take any dents out of the floor cos Ute tray. Plan on a thick coating of bedliner when I'm done. Next up is to paint the top of those bits, the cab end panel and corner upright and button this side back together. Then the entire drivers side

I can sell you a Lucas opus electronic distributor if you want a period correct piece (of crap)

It was under about 8 coats of paint including the factory original. It was 30cm minimum away from any damaged paint (The pitting is where the paint was rubbed off on high points) Everything had been strip disked and wire wheeled. This was as clean and white as metal gets. It seems to have only etched into it where the cloth was touching. Half of it was only wrapped in plastic and though it discoloured the steel there it doesn't appear to have etched it (sanding marks not rounded off like you would see after a light acid wash)

This was rusty prior to my birth. The cold rolled I buy gets some saddle wax on it because I have lots

It's phosphoric acid

I think I'd have pitted the good metal to the point of having to scrap it if I left it long enough to do the pitted parts. Soaking a rag or paper towel is evaporust recommend procedure as well. Basically I'm ranting because I bought it but it took ages to get here, so I bought some rust converter but it turned out to be half fish oil without being described as such, and I couldn't get any basic phosphoric acid without waiting even longer. Tried to get some putty to dam in only the pitted areas but no where had any and it has been on backorder for weeks. So I used the whole container and wrapped it all up and all its done is mark the clean metal. A soda blaster would have been a better use of funds I just ground it down again with the die grinder, went over the whole lot twice with a wire wheel and again twice with sandpaper and put a quarter inch of durepox on it, ain't got time for environmentally friendly bs

Shiny clean metal apart from some localised pitting as I had gone over it with a strip disc and cup brush first. I even hit some of the pitted areas with a die grinder to remove the bulk of it, these remain but the clean white metal is now pitted All of it was kept wet via the sheet and plastic wrap. Left for 20 hours, tho I realise it's winter. Here you can see the check pattern from the towel has etched in, it was all smooth white metal like this I read some people had issues with cast iron. But this is plain old sheet metal. Pretty sure it has a factory electro galv on it though as some has sat stripped to bare metal in my shed for a couple years. Il use straight acid or soda blast the pits next time

I just tried some evaporust on some steel sheet. It was too big to fit in a container, so I covered it in a towel, poured the liquid on, then wrapped in plastic and left over night. It's heavily etched the clean steel so there's visible pits where cloth was touching (can see the pattern of the cloth). Naturally it didn't do anything to the dark metal in the Pits I was hoping to treat. Oh and then the whole lot flash rusted when I scrubbed it with boiling water and blew it off with the compressor. So I had to hit it again with a cup brush, so now I'm back at the beginning, except with lots of tiny but clean pits all over it Pretty sure it says on the tin it won't do that.

Would a commodore coil pack work, I have one you can have for free. Take the crank angle sensor too

All the seals will have dried out. Any oil will have drained to the sump, so you may as well whip that off and see what it's like, rocker cover off and see if the cam is dry. Rings are probably stuck, does it turn over?

5 of these And a sleeping bag?

Slow blow Vs fast blow I think it is

Supercheap carries narva ones

2k white will be cheaper than spray cans

Said it's had bodywork, assume respray. Probably povo spec cos used Toyota fridge

Last couple paint jerbs I have used carmaster 2k primer over existing base and clear paintjob before blocking back to remove shopping trolley dings and chips. Then base coat over that. Will say on your data sheets what kind of grit to use. Primer usually sticks to anything from 240 to 600. Depends on condition of existing. I used 240 to remove all the clearcoat from panels where it had started peeling. Then 2 coats of primer (not highbuild/filler) which was enough to give a scratch free surface. You can then do a wet on wet topcoat with it(the one I used check your data sheet) It has a 24-48hr or so window where the base will stick to the primer so you don't have to scuff it back. Depends how good the existing is, if it's good, scuff some back and try some 2k white to see if it sticks. Probably will if it's a good factory paint that you have cleaned 6 times and dewaxed

The oil in the dashpot doesn't come in contact with any seals or run through the carb. The dashpot piston is brass and seals by fit in the carb body. It won't really effect you tuning it anyway it's mainly there to help smooth out changes in throttle position while driving (stops the needle slamming open or shut, like suspension in a car) Plenty of Barry yarns about fine tuning the perfect carb oil. Sewing machine oil is a bit too thin, I have some genuine SU oil here but have used pretty much what ever was around at the time before

Any bike.has the potential to be a push bike. Shitty 2 stroke bolt in bicycle rally?

Push the bike up on top and strap her down bro, no ramp needed

You would have to run it through a model T gearbox

Design is fine Execution/quality of material/QC There's billions of OEM ones going 20 years on them no issues