Raizer

Non-insulated butt crimps. Can get cheap ratchet tools for them from AliExpress for about $20.

It's a super low melt solder in those things, excess heat won't do them any favours.

There's a few guys running them behind pretty warm 2Js in Aussie, meant to be rather strong boxes.

There's lots of free apps for your phone, I've been using "Photo Editor" on Android for years, simple enough to use but lots of features to do a shitload more than just resize if you wanted. PC is even easier.

https://nzwiring.com/product-category/wiresup/tefzel-wire/?v=c97b334ffd41 Tefzel aka ETFE insulation wiring is the go.

Makes it a lot easier to change the injectors with the manifold off and if he's going to clean out all the shit that's no doubt coating everything inside it then it'll have to come off too. 1KZ-TE is easy as to keep the butterflies working, move 1 T fitting and run both ports of the secondary butterfly dash pot off one vacuum solenoid, have sent @CarolsHusband a pic of how to do it.

Should be able to force it back off the intake enough to clear, well in a Hiace you can at least but they've got a big removable panel behind the engine that gives clear access to it all. /Pull the EGR valve studs out of the intake manifold and it won't have to be pulled back as far. It's well worth pulling the intake off fully and cleaning it and the intake ports out, mine had a fresh engine fitted a few years before I pulled mine and it already had almost 10mm of shit built up coating the ports etc!

Won't have to get the exhaust manifold bolt out to slip a blank in at the inlet manifold end. Can just block the vacuum but a lot of the EGR valves are leaking by now (my 96 was gunked up enough not to seal and the one off a 98 I pulled apart was stuck open). Like @sheepers I also just left the vacuum solenoid plugged in and cable tied it out of the way, but I couldn't leave the vacuum supply line attached as it wanted to make a hell of a noise whenever the solenoid opened lol. Had to T the vac lines going to the big dash pot on the back of the throttlebody and run it off just one of the solenoids that's mounted to the boost crossover tube, keeps it open when the EGR runs and it would normally close.

Slip a plate between the EGR valve and the intake manifold. /Have you removed the intake to clean it out yet?

I spent way too long trying to get that shopping window working, from memory it is indeed an absolute cunt to get at and yeah condensation gets into the motor etc and they seize solid. I wouldn't think it's still there, but I can find out if my old parts one is still rotting away, had a clean L26 from memory just the body was too far gone.

SsangYong Mussos used the T5 in RWD utes too, can be had for around a grand if you look around. No idea if they changed the spines or anything for SsangYong use though.

It's for old style gaskets that you retorque after however many heat cycles, something like glycol being more viscous than water and if it's gotten between the gasket and head or block it won't seal with retorquing.

Then sell it right before factory warranty runs out.