Raizer

Factory wiring while functional was never too pretty So made up a small loom to patch the CDI, reg/rect, ballast resistor etc into the stock loom after a bit of thinning out Since the coil is hidden deep inside the frame I had zero fucks to give about looks when it came to the adapter for the new coil lol After a bit of mucking about making brackets, stripping out any wires I don't need anymore and rerouting things this is what I'm left with Planning on chucking a LiFoPo4 battery in the factory mount (not pictured) once @MopedNZ is back at work/I've got $$ to drop on a fancy battery. Then it was out with the old And in with the new Airbox is purely decorative now, need to turn it into a storage space I think So now it's "just" a case of getting the exhaust nut from Jonny, making an exhaust, painting a few bits, making a slightly longer choke cable and putting it back together!

Unlocking max power /Holds the carb breather lines in place

Have gone with the 6 bolts, loctite and hope plan Some "precision engineering" care of my angle grinder got the pick up location sorted Not a huge amount of clearance, but enough! Still loving the blaster Used some copper spray on the head insert and some PC thermal compound between it and the head cover and I think it's pretty much time to do some wiring, sort out the exhaust and give it a nang!

From what I can see, it should be part number: 13370-18111 $31.90 + shipping from WeBike's OEM parts section.

Oil feed into the engine was blocked by the sleeve for the new intake but the new Dellorto carb has an inlet for 2t oil, so I cut the factory one way valve/banjo fitting off the factory hard plastic oil line and managed to adapt a fitting off a Zip oil pump into a hose joiner. Took a fair bit of mucking about to get it into the old Suzuki line, but I got there. That white fitting is a one way valve from a late model Suzuki, going to run it inline same as on a Let's 2/Yamaha Jog etc. Finally got the flywheel sorted, drilled out the rivets from the factory A50 flywheel, bored out the new one to fit over the back of the A50 hub and got it timed up perfect. Not planning on running those 3 M5 bolts, either going to go with 6x m6 + loctite + hope or I think there's a Vespa shop in Auckland with 6mm rivets in stock. Just need to mill/grind 3mm off the pick up mount and it'll be perfect

Robbed the R-T spec trimmed disc from my OG engine Really should have forked out for a new clutch basket, bushings in this one have a little play, but they are available so maybe in future I'll swap it out. New springs are up-rated over the originals, which is a nice surprise! Offered up the cylinder, might trim a little off this corner of the sleeve to stop it restricting the port, will measure up first It's not that bad, but more flow is more flow. Not too long now till first nang!!

Annnnd it turns out the noises that Sparkle thought was the clutch is most likely the shift drum/forks being fucky. Got a box full of grinding sounds, tight gears and false neutrals. Thankfully Jonny Brasill hooked me up with a couple parts engines and @GuyWithAviators got them up to me, so I should be able to split the engine again and swap in the bits from one of them. Wish I'd tested the gears before I stripped the engine though, going to need to change at least the case gasket if I'm lucky. Crank bearing as well if not.

Roughed out the porting, N.O.S outer plate, port matched to the manifold and shaped according to Graham Bell's 2t performance guide Inner disk plate Case port Just about couldn't get my little finger through there before! Crank web doesn't shroud it as badly as I was worried it would Jonny told Andrew he tapered his crank to clear the porting and I have since seen a few guides that say to taper that web a bit more for max flow, may yet see if I can get some lathe time, but I dunno if it'll be worth it though as it looks to me that the port should flow more than enough? And it was hard to bring myself to do it But I just couldn't run a silver engine lol

Fixed my compressor, wish I'd got a blasting cab years ago!!

Keen pending successful reassembly of this jigsaw puzzle

Got it all fully stripped over the weekend Finally got around to getting the blast cab into the shed tonight Before: During: After* That was at only 40psi, works very well! Bit higher pressure gives a shinier result, but I'm painting it after anyway so this is fine. *By after I mean as far as it's going to get as the angry pixies were escaping the starter cap in my compressor lol

Now is the time to do it, manager here said that they are getting a different colour etc soon so these are clearanced without being advertised as such. Toolshed have 25kg bags of glass bead for $60 ATM too, save $20.

Yeah that's not the best example by any means ha, just the first that came up when I looked just now. Those bottles are rated over 500psi, so the tank itself should be more than up to the task of storing 115psi of air.

Managed to find an info sheet on it free air delivery: 337L/min 11.9cfm. Been looking at getting a bigger upright tank eventually, seen a few videos where guys use 45kg/100lb LPG tanks for air storage. With an upright tank you can use the thread where the gas valve was as both the drain and air fill so you can avoid any welding of the pressure vessel. Crap video, but gives the idea anyway.

I've got an older "industrial series" Air Command, hopefully it does the job! I got a bag of glass beads which say to go between 50 to 80psi so fingers crossed the lower PSI does the trick.