Bling

Just bookmarked that site funnily enough. Looks like you can pay with CC so not too much risk really. I'd lean towards legit till proven otherwise. Can ship a bit for $10 if using the right company. What are you after?

How I see it: Maybe i'm missing a trick if no one wants to take your money to sort the rears though...

Well I feel like you could get a sleeve welded on the rears the same as front. If Fortune Auto (MRP I assume?) can't get sleeves to fit the rear struts you could potentially (i'm not a certifier, just a spitballer) get sleeves made from the right material and get them welded on appropriately. Then put in the same threaded shocks design wise as front. Should be certifiable in my mind as it's the same thing as front, just a bit more work. Since it's already a coilover type suspension in the rear, might just all bolt in and job done. Just have the top mounting point left to sort out. Not sure if that's a top hat in those cars, but assume it is. Pick spring rates and have the shocks built to suit that. I've had custom parts made to work with my Fortune Auto coilovers. Just have to have local certifier onboard with your plans from the start to save problems later. If going low, with IRS, keeping it within the tolerances of factory camber may be fun?

How much you wanting to spend as well? I'm sure you could coilover the rear as well, but you may need to get the bottom section of the coilover machined up to suit the strut. Rear looks a bit larger diameter? It won't be a cheap option, so you'd have to be happy to bleed money to get it done. The above idea with Autolign would be my first port of call. It's a slippery slope once you go coilovers. Cletus does the certs for a living so will know the best options.

I'd change the hoses so you know they are good, especially if you're doing the other bits anyway, makes sense IMO.

What version of windows is the laptop running? Windows often comes with (or can manually install if not) "Windows Movie Maker" or similar. For basic stuff it's fine, and free.

More of a just here to look at the pics project browser, but I have to ask so I can stop wondering. Timing is all smick yeah and not contributing to the heat issues? Someone may have already asked / I missed you say it is. Sweet build though, so clean!

Yeah wouldn't bring kiddo purely because i'd get nothing done on electrical stuff. I'll fire you a PM when things are less hectic as ken for a catch up.

Yeah sounds complicated. When I was pissing around with mine the whole rod came out and I lost it in the engine bay. Maybe I was lucky nothing went wrong. Think I pushed the brake pedal with no M/C installed, because smart. I thought they did booster too, was trying to remember.

Slap me if i'm telling you to suck eggs etc. But I recall having to get mine adjusted and just needed a tool the measured the depth of the master vs the poke of the booster, just had to match them up. Easy tool to make, or could just use calipers to measure. Brakes can be such a nightmare, hopefully they have done what they are supposed to have and it's something simple. CBC did a good job of other stuff for me.

Oh if you only want Cig weld then yeah 135A rating should cover all car stuff i'd say. I have a BOC welder (180A) and for panel work it's always below half power, well below. You won't want to weld a towbar together, but panel work is really lightweight so will be sweet. The lower the settings go the better the thin jobs will go. Haven't used cig weld to know how low they go. I think mine goes as low as 30A and I fiddle the settings around there and upwards usually.

Check back the last 10 pages or so, quite a few people have purchased MIG's for exactly that usage. Some decent units for fair money these days.

Could be keen at a later Friday, focusing on getting car on road first which might take a couple of months... Pretty sure I can dig a project or two out of the garage to bring along for a tinker. Friday is usually my day off too so I won't even ask you to provide toddler toys and a playground.

Not sure who that is. I don't own it through anyone.

Bunnings gas wasn't a thing when I first started bird shitting on things so I have my own cylinder. Last time it needed a test it was ~$100 including a CO2 fill. Have got bits and pieces from these guys before and they sell cylinders. https://weldplus.co.nz/5kg-co2-ownership-cylinder-filled-s-n/ Mine will probably be due a test again by the time I go through the 6.8KG of gas. Good to have no rental costs though. Bunnings deal could be worth looking into as I think it was better than BOC. Plus BOC can get fucked as they sure seemed to charge a lot when there was no competition in the DIY market.

I mean if it's only going to meet WOF requirements for that short time it's being tested, why even bother getting the WOF? May as well just take your chances and have a polite attitude if pulled up. If you're not driving it to get repairs / work done on it towards cert though you'll be up a creek really. I won't be trailering my car for repairs for cert, will just hope for the best as i'll only be driving it for trips related to that. I get the impression you plan to drive it all over the show, which is where WOF or not you'll come unstuck. 2c

Can also get those with the threaded rod attached so can tighten them into nuts on the deck / remove as not needed. All the same junk on AliEx. Comac should have every option you can dream of too. https://www.comac.co.nz/U/Cargo-Control-Rope-Rings

Ken for a look / bring a snag, car probably won't be ready.

Yeah both mine were on ae111 chassis. One disc, one drum. Took a lot less time to work out the second time! Mine were not too far out, but nothing I did would get it closer.

The two times i've had rear imbalance, where pissing with the rear didn't solve it, it was the proportioning valve(?). On the car it controlled the left / right split part of the system, i'm not good with terms. Different car though so could run a different setup. Both times it was a tiny bit of crud inside the valve and when cleaned out balanced up perfectly. Just an idea anyway, no idea on that car setup.

Postage times aren't that bad

12v would be much easier to sort in your case. I have a PC PSU I powered a car stereo from in the shed, 12V rail on them tends to be decent, well so long as you don't buy low end.

I feel like including the knackered batteries in the mix of this will do more harm than good. Would they even offer up the capacity you're needing from them? Purely for examples sake, this unit is used for 3D printers https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/computers/3d-printers-supplies/3d-parts-accessories/listing/3652425447?bof=0yiT1ElZ Scrap the batteries to fund a 24v PSU I imagine most PC stuff will be 12V.

Just a dot on the end of the link. With the cheaper ones from mi shop, just do some googling as I have seen some examples where bits fell out leading to some injuries. Not to put you off them, they will be a lot cheaper, just worth looking at. Or at least getting salad eater to have a nut and bolt check over it before going for a hoon. Pretty sure a family member rocks one of the Xiaomi models (it's grey, probably no help, but I can ask him what model / his view if you like) and uses it for the exact same thing, can't park near work and works CBD. Never had any issues with my Xiaomi devices so i'd totally hit the cheapest model that fits your needs. Will pay for itself pretty quickly no paying Wilsons, so if you decide you want a better one you can always flick it off and upgrade.

Could be easier to just reshape the floor to suit the extra space needed for resonators?