Bling

His feedback says it all really...

The animated ones are the best lol. I hear you though, some can be pretty bright.

Yeah seems a bit silly. Totally different designs for totally different jobs. Legality shouldn't come into it, just don't, lol.

That example there is 4900kg GVM, a bit weighty.

You'll save money for sure. You'll likely also spread silica dust as far as you can see and get pissed off while doing so. Post results either way I'd be paying the money and having it done within a week, with no effort required on my part. I pick and choose my DIY battles, that job wouldn't be one of them unless I had all the PPE and a filtered spray booth. I have neither. Same reason i'm paying bank for coilovers, i'd rather just pay the guys that do it daily than trial and error it myself. 2c and all that.

Dick punch rule is only for cars on the road, so don't worry guys, you are safe.

If you don't mind the look of pins, go nuts. Personally i'd do everything I could to recondition what I had to avoid having them. Especially on a car like yours, original = winning. But different strokes etc. Perhaps you could have the mechanism blasted / dipped and anodized? Would link Snoozin's KP as I think he got similar things done, but pics are goneburger.

Is stock release a bad design or just seized up? Ken for a dickpunch

Haha fair enough, i'm not worried about WOF inspectors so much, more so what the LVVTA say the rule is. You guys do make the rules after all Just a bit of a confusing one for me as swapping the seats in without a cert would still pass a WOF. So just wondering what the threshold is once certed, for changes like that. Swapping wheels to other sizes is an easy one, as it can change the cars handling no doubt. So I get the rules around that, with the sizes stamped to the plate. But swapping in seats better suited to holding you in place, doesn't seem like it would be a safety issue. Assuming I am buying reputable branded components.

Seats and belts would be separate, just wondered about the cert rules as they lock the car down pretty hard once plated. More of a hypothetical as I have no plans to change seats currently (no money for that carry on).

Yeah my post won't make much sense due to dmulally removing the whole content of their post. Good job. As for this thread. If you cert a car with factory seats, can you change seats at a later stage without re-cert? Situation would be aftermarket rails specific to car with matching aftermarket seats. Which as far as I know is fine to do without cert. Just wondering if cert locks seat changes out or not. Cheers

Are you suggesting that your car not having a VIN plate is a cert process problem? Sounds like it will be an easy fix when inspected. Why have you needed so many inspections? Local bogans likely don't cert their cars as they are poorly done and won't pass. Cert process doesn't even seem hard, going by my chats with people getting them done.

Full face mask with the right filters would be the go. I just brush mine on outside, don't want my garage stinking. If you have the coin, have someone blast the chassis and 2 pot epoxy it. Ready to go.

I can't imagine fuel sitting in an injector for years will do it any favours / might end up like the fuel tank. Free test is good. Although it could still be blocked even if operating well in this test (sound wise). /ling

Could take it to a Mazda garage and have them scan it / give you estimates perhaps. Dealership might get more detailed info from the ECU. I know when I had my van scanned yonks ago (not Mazda) they could tell exact details of the fault, when it happened and all that jazz. From the fault code they knew the part that had failed/ was intermittently failing.

I'm only talking hardcore relative to other products you can buy that don't contain acid. Most of them claim to be safe on skin (I still glove up because why not). But acid is certainly not great for your skin. This was ~2 minutes with a soft brush to put it on, cloth to wipe it off. It's left a zinc phosphate layer on the metal and all the rust is gone. Deeply pitted metal will take longer of course. Deeply pitted vertical surfaces are a nightmare. It's great for heard to reach places though as you just brush it in and presol it when done. /many ways to skin a cat

Is all this hardcore acid actually better than the non-toxic alternatives? I've done test patches and the rust is gone quick, and that's with stuff that isn't acid / doesn't give of fumes etc.

Cool man, keen to see yours.

I've always just had new circuits put in for my welder / compressor. You know what's what then, for not much (relative to welder price etc) cost.

Also worth keeping in mind your whole shed might be run off the one circuit. So if you plan on running lamps, radio etc while laying down phat 10mm beads, it could be worthwhile having a dedicated 15A plug on it's own circuit. No worries then. If people want things welded, they just have to bring them to you. A good idea to make up a short 15A extension lead, so you can move the welder anywhere in shed. I think mine is about 4m, means my welder can be at the garage door if need be. I wouldn't buy a welder from overseas, false economy if buying purely on price. How much is shipping going to be if you need it repaired, lots. Handy if your local shop can repair the unit / get spares. If you don't have any welder shops in town though that won't be an option.

Have always just gone new discs, not badly priced and you know they'll last aaaaages. That and you don't need to have the car down for more than a Sunday arvo. Can only imagine that when they are near minimum thickness (after a skim) they'd heat up pretty quick as mentioned. Which would surely impact braking performance, mo heat mo problems.

I have a pair from Repco, they drop to ~$220ish on special for a pair (semi often so if you're not in a hurry). Haven't used them a huge amount yet as I can't even move my car... But they jack the car up fine and seem to move alright even on garage carpet (talking 1 ton vehicle mind you). I'd link you but their site is down, here is the aussie site: https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/mechpro/mechpro-vehicle-positioning-jacks-mpvpj2/p/A9691482 Those trademe ones look alright too, they don't even have a hydraulic ram, so less to go wrong perhaps? Dunno

Seems legit if it doesn't reflect the sun into other drivers' eyes etc.

2012 Transit custom, a few niggles such as trip meter resetting each day. Radio stopped working last week so I did some digging. It runs dual batteries and I've found that one runs accessories and the other is starter battery. Both are joined while starting, so using both. Finally got around to removing drivers seat to get to them. One is on 8-9v, so that solves that question. However, for now I have just swapped them around. Radio working again as accessories now running off the good battery. Can anyone see an issue with just rolling like this for now? Will do my homework on battery replacement. But my theory is that it will run fine as it's only during starting the now did battery is used. I just want some sounds till I get new batteries. Lost radio a couple of weeks ago. It has a stupidly overbuilt starter, will having less start up power do any damage to said starter?

Is it a camry? That was the first youtube video that came up with I looked up that gearbag. Funnily enough a transmission fluid check/change video. Looks like a job to have someone else do lol.