Bling

Thanks. Lots of good information in this here thread that's for sure. All seems to lead towards it being a worthwhile upgrade in my case.

That's some complicated formula! Will be different pads / calipers, so thankfully I don't need to work that out. The heat side of things will be massive, 200mm solid disc vs 276mm vented disc, no more fade.

Will be a combination of bigger brakes and decent tyres in this case. No ABS to be seen. The rotor sizing just had me a intrigued, due to conflicting info on the web. A bit of money to invest, so I just wanted to see what sort of improvements I might see if I went that direction.

So would that mean that for a car to come to a stop, it requires X force, acting on Y distance of rotor? So the larger the rotor, the less rotations required to stop the vehicle, thus shorter stopping distance. All other factors remaining constant. That does make sense, but I hadn't thought about it in that way.

Yeah valid point on the locking up. Looking at rotors between 262mm and 276mm. Correct on the brake fade. I get it currently on current car, but that could be partly fixed if I replaced the whole lot with new OE parts. It doesn't get driven hard, so not going to splash out to find out. The above rotor sizes are aimed at 14" and 15" wheels. I won't be putting 14" wheels on the car, so would be looking at the 276mm rotors. Weight is a good point, I will try find docs online for rotor weights. Query was more about the theory of bigger rotors alone making a difference to the braking performance. Most articles online don't even mention the extra 'leverage' provided by larger rotors. They just say, nah won't actually decrease braking distance. Generalised. Keen to know if that is correct or they are just lazy. edit: 276 vs 262 = 700g difference, approx.

So if it's acting in that way, how does it improve the braking? Purely from the leverage point of view, does it mean it will in fact stop quicker now, as the force provided by the pads on the rotor has increased, due to the leverage. I mean I get that it's not having to work as hard to get the same braking performance. So does that mean that with the same force applied by the brakes, they will pull up faster? This all may seem dumb, but i'm just trying to get my head around the whole situation. Obviously if i'm spending money on bigger brakes, I want it to be a worthwhile upgrade. So i'm figuring, less brake fade, and more force applied to the rotors via greater leverage = decreased stopping distance. Yeah / nah? End result will be four piston vs single piston, and fast street pads, on much larger, now vented rotors. I'm just looking at the theory behind it, to see what improvements purely just increased rotor size provide. Just an interesting topic I thought, that i'd like to comprehend rather than just throwing money at things and not fully understanding how each part affects performance. Tyres will be up to the task, so interest is purely from the brake side of things.

Brake theory query. One of those "pop into head" ideas. Current discs are ~200mm diameter (hilarious). Looking at potential ~270mm rotors for an upgrade (ignoring caliper upgrade for this theory). Will the braking performance be improved purely by way of the brakes now clamping the rotor further from the center of the hub? The upgraded calipers are sized to match factory booster and that sort of thing. Lots of articles basically say that bigger brakes don't necessarily offer better braking performance. Except for the reduced fade with constant braking down a hill etc. I'm just thinking that if you're clamping the disc further out, it will brake easier, as in will be able to slow it quicker as it's applying more force by way of clamping location. But I have literally no idea beyond that theory. So engineers / mechanics, school me up on the forces involved, and whether or not i'm barking up the wrong tree with this idea.

Any reason to just not put the plate in a spot like this? Worked fine on my trailer, only had to bend it back up a couple of times. Due to my own stupidity.

https://www.facebook.com/oldschoolconz/

Doh, didn't see this one on here or Facebook, or at least Facebook didn't tell me. Next time.

They'd probably accept garden hose going by the trailers I see on the road. Perhaps just sleeve it in some electrical duct so it can't rub?

Yeah I saw the round bits on the trademe setup, just figured the proper fitlering would go elsewhere or as mentioned air compressor needs to be in clear air. I guess you don't need filters at mask with positive air. You'd just want the inlet supply well filtered. Wouldn't want any moisture or oil residue from airlines etc.

Were the cartridges legit 3M? Price is good! Where is the air filtered on the positive air setup? Do you need to put the compressor outside so it's drawing fresh air, rather than filtering it?

Whats a proper air fed setup worth all up? Must be the the 000's? Makes a 3M full face kit with a workshop fan seem cheap as chips.

Fibreglass or stainless steel packed reso? Cheers

Filters aren't that bad cost wise. Mask would depend on spraying situation. I'd probably grab a 3M full face one if I was starting from scratch. Already have a half mask unit though, so didn't bother. Money well spent on getting the right gear. /KY has you sorted.

Are there certain reso's that are better than others? Have seen a few brands (Coby, M&H), some with fibreglass, some with stainless fill. Worth upsizing muffler on a shit motor?

You're a madman haha, whats a lazy 1000km overnight eh

Removing cat converter from 3AU 1500cc 4 banger, good practice to replace with resonator or not required? Will end up replacing most of the exhaust with 38mm tube and a new muffler as it's rusted out. So before I tuck the exhaust up too high, thought I better check about needing a resonator in there to keep things sounding as pleasant as it can. Don't want rasp.

Flaring guards not an option? Cheaper than buying new wheels like I did, to get a tyre / wheel combo I wanted. For cert anyway, which I assume this is for.

How will you contain all the silica dust created? For small parts a cabinet works mint, for a whole car, i'd leave that to the pros who can epoxy primer it when done. Leaving you to fix bits as you go with the car protected by the primer.

@chasinthemirage you should post a photo of the "straight through" exhaust, it's amazing.

I grabbed some the other day from tool shed, they seem to be lasting ok. Can't argue with the price really, 3 for $1.90, less if you are a club member. I grabbed 40, 80 and 120 grit. Cheap enough that I don't mind going through them. Says on the box wood and soft metal. Gets through sheet metal nicely. Birdshit welds take a bit more time.

Don't have a belt sander by chance? Flipped upside down it could make for a good patch shaper. I use my powerfile to do it as I don't have the space to set up my belt sander.

If you can fix the thread (by going bigger and metric) with a set you have, I'd go that way for sure. I can't see that fix not being up to the job anyway.