locost_bryan

Marina TC gauge cluster on TradeMe, no reserve $50, buy now $150 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/gauges/listing/3055463673?member_hash=1d3fe7ffa8fab2c642e5b46b74bedf6a9753acb48b6185f72d&tm=email&et=46&mt=E4472408-8060-4EB7-90BB-725D852E5CEF&bof=5Hzhjn59

Race car paint has "orange peel" finish for the same reason, supposed to improve flow by disturbing the layer of air that "clings" to the surface. Some discussion here http://speed.academy/10-myths-of-cylinder-head-porting/ https://forums.mightycarmods.com/forum/technical/tech-talk/798217-porting-clearing-the-elephant-in-the-room-about-rough-vs-smooth-vs-dimples

Cool, forgot that later Maxis would have got the "metric" HIF44. Great find for @kws, he should be able to whip up his own extractors to go with it.

Looks like you've got the holy grail, twin 1.75" carbs on E-series manifold. Are there any numbers on the carbs? E-series has 4 ports, B-series has 2 ports.

Is that a result of better thermal efficiency , or just the extra power allowing a lighter right foot?

No, I think the detailed production records were lost when the Zetland factory closed. Hard to work out from chassis numbers, as each variant was numbered from 1001, so yours is the 572nd Deluxe 1750 manual Coupe. Production was about 200 cars per week, roughly 40% were Deluxe, and 40% Coupes, but I don't know the % for engine and trans. You could probably use a spreadsheet to make a guesstimate. Because your chassis number doesn't start with a "Y", it's probably NZ assembled. If you have the original rego number, you will be able to find out the date first registered, the build date

I certainly never paid anything like that for freight from the US for similar size packages.

If you get desperate for a rev counter. US$80 (approx NZ$115) + $157 shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/RVI2435-01A-13H6796-Smiths-Tachometer-Austin-Marina/163646571445?epid=6027593855&hash=item261a1883b5:g:N90AAOSwZKlcLqOJ

No speed info getting to the computer. Read a bit about it here https://www.2carpros.com/questions/wont-shift-out-of-1st-gear-please-help

Both. Lucas changed from inductive (RVI) to single wire (RVC) in the early 70s, and it appears the Marina started with RVI then changed to RVC. The wiring harness should have the bullet connectors for a RVI, or a wire with a spade connector for the RVC. A GENTLEMAN’S GUIDE TO SMITHS ELECTRONIC TACHOMETERS Wiring a Marina Tachometer

Nice job on the gauges. If you don't have any luck finding a tachometer, I have a spare.

After delivering the filter elements just before Christmas, discovered the base plates were missing, and had to order those too. So another months delay, but what the heck, it's been a while already. Delivered the base plates, and the engine guys were finally able to run the engine safely, without worrying it would suck in a lose bolt or some such. Due to the time it had been there, they had been having to move it around a bit, which wasn't doing the engine any favours, so was recommended to run it under load on the dyno to bed in the rings. Getting it to run properly turned into

Rust in the guards is usually where mud collects, behind the headlights or by the A-pillar. Looks like it might have had ding and not been well repaired?

Nice. Ginger beer's taste literal or figurative?

Dual filament bulb holders in the rear indicators because 70s Aussie cars used them for reversing lights. Select reverse and both rear amber lights illuminate. Can remember dad's XA Falcon doing the same thing.