fuel

Members
  • Content Count

    5,978
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,545 Excellent

2 Followers

About fuel

  • Rank
    Official Mitsubishi Weirdo
  • Birthday 22/10/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Converted

  • Local Area
    Outside NZ

Recent Profile Visitors

875 profile views
  1. fuel

    4G63T blocks

    turbo RWD = wideblock N/A RWD = (generally) narrowblock, with some exceptions like 4x4 L200/L300. I believe all RWD N/A 4G64s are wideblock. turbo FWD/AWD = narrowblock And then when it comes to RWD 4G54 there seems to be a difference between auto/man that determines wideblock or not.
  2. in Toronto just a couple suburbs over. It was originally from Chatham-Kent which is near Detroit.
  3. yeah I believe only the North American market GSL and GSL-SE's had this dash with the rest being 'GS' style. I wonder if anyone could hack up a LHD GSL/GSL-SE dash to make it RHD much in the way some companies make LHD cars into RHD cars. I would have a spare dash to offer up.
  4. So I never thought I would end up owning a rotary any time soon but wasn't having too much luck finding a sweet Starion/Conquest near me over the last year or so. This came up locally for a good price and thought why the fuck not. It's a 1985 Canadian spec FB RX-7 GSL-SE with the IMSA Targa option. It's basically the same as US spec top of the line GSL-SE with 13B RE-EGI engine just with km/h dials instead of mph. IMSA Targa package adds faux brushed metal targa band (I'm not the biggest fan), front splitter (currently off the car broken) and rear wrap around wing. Factory options include maroon leather interior, electric windows/mirrors, climate control A/C, LSD with larger disc brakes F&R, cruise control, and glass moon roof with carry bag. It's a two owner car with 167k kms on the clock. Needs a little tidy up with a few small rust patches but otherwise it's a solid body and completely factory original inside and out. It comes with an almost complete '84 GSL-SE parts car that has a 10k old rebuilt engine (though hasn't run for years) and a Racing Beat full exhaust which will probably find its way onto the good car. Plans are to tidy it up over time and bring it back to as factory fresh condition as possible. Probably hang onto it here in Canada for a while and perhaps even bring back to NZ with me. Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/
  5. fuel

    Zep's gem'

    Am I the only one who can't see Zep's pics that are hosted on Google?
  6. I don't believe you can fit a TD05H cartridge to a TD05 turbine housing. You would want to use the H turbine housing as it separates the wastegate outlet for more flow.
  7. Hard to tell without pics but it sounds like it's mostly stock with perhaps a wheel upgrade from a later model TD05. 14B is early E39A Galant VR- compressor wheel, and the blades are uniform. 16G is late E39A Galant VR-4 and Evo1-3 compressor wheel and they have a staggered blade arrangement, with the Evo 3 16G wheel being slightly different again (more curved). Then you have the TD04 series of turbos from Lancer GSRs, Saabs, Volvos, Subarus etc which can come with 13G, 15T, 16G, 19T etc which introduces another bunch of wheels into the mix. I would just fit a TD05H-big16G complete on your existing exhaust manifold (will need some porting) and then clock the compressor housing (requires drilling out locating pin) and relocate wastegate actuator mounting bracket or weld up internal wastegate and use external wastegate. Will need a different downpipe made up too.
  8. Have been loosely following this thread as my interest to DIY EFI comes and goes. My last EFI conversion was just using parts from the wreckers and I reckon the EFI conversion aspect of my swap was only around $200. For my next project (whenever this will ever happen) I need an ECU that: - has 6x injector drivers for sequential injection (though could settle for 3x batched fire if the ECU can do everything else I need) - has 6x ignition drivers for individual spark (just to retain the stock coils rather than convert to wasted spark) - control for VVT (simple rpm actuated switch), along with control for fuel pump, fans, A/C disconnect at WOT - MAP sensor input preferred but can do AFM if need be. - single knock sensor input required - support for e-throttle, I would like to retain the factory throttle body or use a similar era throttle body that is generic enough. I can assemble and wire up no problem, but am not against a fully assembled solution Speeduino looks good apart from only 4x injector/ignition drivers. Is MS3 still considered a good DIY EFI solution in 2020? @Ned what happened to the ECU you were developing?
  9. Pull open the existing CPU and check condition of the electrolytic capacitors - if you see any bulging or signs of leaking then they could be your problem.
  10. The fact that it comes right once you power cycle the ECU suggests it could be ECU related, given that nothing would have changed on the mechanical front during the power cycle.
  11. probably because a car or two is parked in the drive and the drive isn't long enough to have them in front of the gate?
  12. I think he sold the engine or is in the process of selling the engine.
  13. this engine has new pistons right? could it be the piston to bore clearances are too tight and there is too much friction going on?