fuel

I would get in touch with the supplier and let them know it has failed - they could have a serious liability on their hands as the outcome could have been so much more severe! For something that controls the most essential aspect of a car it is a huge safety concern. I would also look into swapping it out for UJ's as early as possible as it would do wonders for the steering feel.

my plan is to retain the stock twin tip arrangement but have one tip going to the rear muffler, and the other tip going to the bypass valve, which will be driven by the stock GTO active exhaust control motor.

should probably mention - new engine will be 6G74 with MIVEC heads + churbos which is why I want 3". I definitely understand the exhaust I want to build will not be well suited to the N/A engine.

Hey guys, So the exhaust on my Diamante is absolutely had it (front down pipe is smashed, rear section is rusting away etc) so I need to replace the exhaust sooner than later. Given that I'm planning an engine swap, I want to make sure the exhaust would be suitable and ready. I'm thinking a mild steel 3" mandrel bent system with one or two hotdog resonators and a muffler that is reasonably quiet at the rear, but with a servo actuated bypass valve before the rear muffler - kind of similar to how the 'Active Exhaust' works on the GTO and some later Galants and Diamantes. The factory GTO appears to just have a cat converter up front, no mufflers in the middle and a restrictive muffler in the rear that then splits to each side, but there is a valve just in front of the rear muffler that basically allows the exhaust to just bypass the rear muffler and exit out of one of the exhaust pipes. I'm hoping to replicate this, but am wary of the system being too loud or raspy when in 'quiet' mode. What would be the ideal length of resonators to use? Does anyone have recommendations of a good 3" rear muffler? Ideally an oval type with center in and offset out. Below is a pic of the stock GTO exhaust systems - on the left is the N/A one which is similar to the Diamante system, while on the right is the TT version: Thanks!

did you consider doing a cross ram style inlet manifold? would have taken up less width, same height etc and you retain the same runner length if not longer etc for example:

Are you sure? I'm certain Jag are 5x4.75" (5x120.65mm)

Nooooo how come you sell your SD1's not long after sinking lots of time and effort into them and not getting to enjoy your fruits of labour?

what are the ratios like on a Navara diesel box though?

if staying N/A then the gearbox option should be much easier. The Triton R5M31 would probably be the easiest to do, otherwise you could just source the bellhousing from one and fit to a Toyota box. I'm considering using a Nissan 350Z/370Z CD009 6-speed box as they are cheaper to find than a T56 that I was originally going to use, plus they shift much better and are the same size.

13x5 from memory.

so odd being imperial 4x108 - I would have thought it would be 4x100 like the Golf that it borrowed some of its suspension parts from.

Damn what a shame! Am there from the 16-23 May.

They should go back into the air intake. One will have a PCV valve so should go into the manifold after the throttle, the other will not have a valve and needs to go into the intake before the throttle. Or you could just pipe them into a catch can, either vented to atmosphere (not really the best), or vented back into the intake, and a drain that drains back into the sump (or drain can often).

You bought a DOHC pulley... I already told you what car you can grab a pulley from - whether you want to listen to my advice is up to you.

You bought an oil pump sprocket for a DOHC engine that has a wider timing belt...