brocky41

@Naratechwin - Dereg, rust in front xmember, Struts and and a few other bits sold. I do have the Bumpers, front is a bit smashed up but rear looks ok and the shift knob is still there.

Hi Guys - sorry to barge in on the thread but I'm parting this 4 door out in Christchurch also. Have just joined that facebook group also, hopefully I can help a few people out. Great old cars with lots of quirks. Cheers Brock 0273380347

Hi guys, I have a TD27T D21 Terrano. Not the most powerfull diesel on the market but it gets us by. Just wondering if its worth getting a boost tap and guage and throwing a few more pounds at it as ill be doing a bit more towing from now on with it. Its auto so ill do the trans cooler aswell. Recently had the fuel pump rebuilt and its better than it was (was leaking internally and only ran with a 12V aux pump). Intercooler worth doing? Any help or advice much appreciated.

Good work man - If it was really clangy on start up it could be one or more injectors causing an issue. I had an LD that sounded like it wanted to throw a rod, banging around on start up. Also really hard to start - huge drain. After a quick injector swap was all gravy. I like this is still getting upgrades also.

Parts that take any normal person an eternity to do find / give up / have to wait for nos stock to roll around, and you bust them out from nothing in a "Lunch break" with "only a few tools" lol. So much admiration for your skills. Keep up the awesome work.

May have already been said but blocked heater core? had an engine with similar issues and bypassing heater fixed it, then i replaced the core. My 1c.

What is the H165 out of? From memory the 1200 ute housings with axles bolted up (all were H165) although hard to find these days. If from a 910 or similar make sure you dont have to pump the guards to make up for any extra width. How badly are you breaking them? I must have had the worlds strongest H150 in old TUFDAT - 5 years of absolute abuse (shown below) and it only got a little noisey lol. TBH its last 2 years were run with 100% lucas oil stabilizer as the diff oil. That stuff really works.

Those frost plugs look like they are a little bit of an issue for L and R series nowadays - the test of time is starting to creep up on them i'd say. 2x L series (one LD and one L26) ive pulled of late have met their demise through frost plug issues. I suppose it depends how looked after the cooling system is previous to you. If it was me i'd smash a quality new water pump on there as well just to be sure. Its great to see this this still out being used - keep up the good work.

Might be an option? https://www.yaldhurstmuseum.co.nz/storage-services/ Im sure they would love a Niva.

Also what is it costing to "fill" on the various chargers? Nice to see real life running and costs from a genuine OSer.

Would make an awesome soapbox derby car

Yea that bonnet is the best ive seen bar the 2 i have. Get it hammered out and fixed properly plus fill it with stuff to keep the rust away once its done. Last owner before me said they had replaced the lower sections of all the doors so obviously not prepared or sealed properly. The rear guard area is a problem on 90% of datsuns - just needs a small amount of water to start fizzing in the join. Yes you will constantly be catching rust - but a whole lot less than most peoples classics.

What about Barrel Bros in Aus? Also - this is gonna look so good on those - glad its getting the love it deserves.

Wow you can buy lots of steel panel stuff for that - im sure there will be parts still in Sweden/Scandinavia and the likes. I got a front guard and boot lid for one of my Cedrics from Norway of all places. Keep up with the build, I may have to join you on a welding course. One word when stripping down - lots of ziplock bags. I didnt think i liked Saabs but this thing is awseome.