Mitch.W

managed to get the rear end bolted back in, the coilovers above were too short to suit the rears and i had some d3 s13 rear coilovers sitting around so i just used them. just need to finish turning the axles down to suit the new rear brake setup and the rest can go together. also been waiting on this to start some other assembly, the zinc plating got finished up. always nice starting with fresh hardware, got all the door and bonnet hinges zincd too. also got my bonnet and boot catch done which i was wasn't too sure about but they turned out great and still move freely

Gave it a lick of underseal and it looks 1000x better, good enough for a race car anyway. Im on a super tight budget for this car, new sprog popped out and better half at home down to one income makes it tough! Usually would sandblast/powdercoat everything but with budget cuts a quick wire wheel and "subframe black" paint worked a treat! With keeping in the theme of cheap parts i was on the lookout for cheap coilovers on market place and these popped up, off a modern Subaru of some sort a set of Blitz coilovers length looked about right and at $150 the price was right. all tidied up cut off all the tabs/mounts on the lower and ill weld them straight the the knuckle. the camber plates are also have enough meat on them to cut down to suit the ke70 bolt patter on the top. One of the fronts didn't come apart easily and a week of penetrating oil, some big bars/pipes and some hammers didn't make it budge.. a little stumped on how to unseize it without buggering it. I might try a air chisel to try break it loose but if not i will have to cut it off to save the shock and try find someone friendly with a lather to turn up a new one with an internal thread for me. The car has turrets welded in the rear to suit s13 coilovers, no holes are drilled so the world is my oyster really as long as the length is right. the rears seem to be about the right length and hopefully not tooo short for the back of this. For $150 if i can make these work i will be stoked.

so i realised i haven't updated this in awhile, i thought i had Updated this build thread but its been deleted? weird anyway, j160 bellhousing adaptor and Engine/Trans mounts from Brendan at Niteparts turns out 2zz are much harder to find than you would expect took afew months but this turned up this week. Started giving it a good clean and found some mystery RTV while giving it a scrub down which is scary but hopefully its just a leaky front cover/tensioner. Started chipping away at afew rust spots, I've never really done rust work before but limited tools and only a tig make it harder than it should be, good enough for a race car. also someone had decided the C Piller vents weren't cool so deleted them, so i deleted the delete so i not have piller vents again In between all of this i finally got the rollcaged all ticked off and homologated so i could get on with painting the interior so i don't have to be worried about stuff rusting, Water blasted the underside while it was semi warm today to get it ready for underseal to pretty it up.

I’ve worked on afew cnc tube benders in the past. You are limited with them to do longer radius bends Depending on which die you have and also not being able to do compound bends and also distance between bends usually needs to have a small straight between them. great for making exhausts though!

I know swapping in gt4 celica gearbox/transfer case is common in the gtx/gtr world to have a near indestructible driveline, is there any options for the gtir?

Managed to pick up a pioneer lonesome car-boy component stack which consists of a kp-707g cassette player, cd5 equaliser, gm120 amp, I already have a gm4 amp too, and a pair of ts-x9 to top it off, it also came with a pair of small ts-1655 speakers and a Kex-70 tape player too. spent afew hours cleaning with a tooth brush and metal polish to get rid of some corrosion and got it looking presentable. tried to bench test the setup but it doesn’t seem to be playing ball, I got it all connected up, the tape gear spin if I falsely load it without a tape, but as soon as I load a tape in it doesn’t seem to have enough juice to spin the tape. I don’t know enough about this stuff to pull it to bits. I also need a volume knob as the one on my cassette player has been snapped off so if anyone has a spare sitting around would be much oh appreciated. also pulled the original floor mats out of the boot this weekend and 40 years hasn’t been super nice to the rubber on these and the drive side is starting to crumble apart but they are near impossible to find so will do for now, gave them a scrub up and they came up pretty nice.

Yeah Darren messaged me, once shipping they become not super cheap, will wait until I have some wheels and front suspension before sorting tires

It sounds like you need to run 13’s

Yeah that works out great, I will most probably start with using 185/60/13 semi slicks all round for now, means I can keep it stock body and until I decide what o want to do. Deff don’t want to end up running 10” wheels, you can still buy 200/540/13 tires brand new for not bad money which is an option later down the track.

4.9 will be great for drifting though… would love to have a easy setup that works for grip and drift, I can get 2 different sets of front knuckles so that makes changing the alignment easy. Just always so tempted to run trs slicks but that requires big guards which makes it hard to make cool wheels fit for drifting

The most frustrating thing about them it would be so cool if they had changed bore and stroke to make it work

Yeah I didn’t intend on using a rough shell but it’s what was available at the time. I haven’t don’t any driveline calcs yet but it should work good and I’m hoping 4.9 makes it work out good. Will be a 13” with 185/60 or a 14” with 185/50. Undecided what wheels I’m going to run yet. When I built my starlet it was 4.9 with a t50 and 13” trs slicks it was 175kph at 7500rpm which was perfect for manfeild. I can get stock lsd’s from the utes but hoping to get a plate type lsd for it.

I’m still yet to grab one, missed out on a celica at turners that sold for 1k, wreckers seem to want 2k for a motor. Must have come down in price now.

Yeah they seem to make around 140kw in stock used form at the wheels which is plenty! I’m use to a stock 16v 4age so it will be heaps. afew things I seems with the 2zz is upgrade oil pump gears as they like to explode and valve springs. you don’t want the s13 stuff. It’s terrible for handling on ke/ae cars

It will just be a stock 2zz with equal length headers and either blacktop 20v or s65 itb’s. Would like to get a spare head to do some cams and porting later down the track but main focus is get it running and driving. Yeah the 2zz has some good potential I feel quite popular in Jamaica and some other countries in fwd corollas making good power. there is a lot of cool modern motor with small displacement that make realllly good power that would be cool to do, I friend showed me the Honda L15 the other day which looks super cool. b1600 diff use to be commonly used, I’ve got caliper brackets to run s13 Silvia discs and Nissan pulsar calipers so isn’t too hard to make that work.