Mitch.W

Going to bump this topic, I have a b1600 diff in my ke70 and want a nice lsd option for track use, a plate type 2 way diff would be the dream . I have a 4.7 or 4.9 raito which is perfect. Is anyone able to confirm what lsd options fit? If mx5 nuggets fit that’s perfect?

managed to get the rear end bolted back in, the coilovers above were too short to suit the rears and i had some d3 s13 rear coilovers sitting around so i just used them. just need to finish turning the axles down to suit the new rear brake setup and the rest can go together. also been waiting on this to start some other assembly, the zinc plating got finished up. always nice starting with fresh hardware, got all the door and bonnet hinges zincd too. also got my bonnet and boot catch done which i was wasn't too sure about but they turned out great and still move freely

Gave it a lick of underseal and it looks 1000x better, good enough for a race car anyway. Im on a super tight budget for this car, new sprog popped out and better half at home down to one income makes it tough! Usually would sandblast/powdercoat everything but with budget cuts a quick wire wheel and "subframe black" paint worked a treat! With keeping in the theme of cheap parts i was on the lookout for cheap coilovers on market place and these popped up, off a modern Subaru of some sort a set of Blitz coilovers length looked about right and at $150 the price was right. all tidied up cut off all the tabs/mounts on the lower and ill weld them straight the the knuckle. the camber plates are also have enough meat on them to cut down to suit the ke70 bolt patter on the top. One of the fronts didn't come apart easily and a week of penetrating oil, some big bars/pipes and some hammers didn't make it budge.. a little stumped on how to unseize it without buggering it. I might try a air chisel to try break it loose but if not i will have to cut it off to save the shock and try find someone friendly with a lather to turn up a new one with an internal thread for me. The car has turrets welded in the rear to suit s13 coilovers, no holes are drilled so the world is my oyster really as long as the length is right. the rears seem to be about the right length and hopefully not tooo short for the back of this. For $150 if i can make these work i will be stoked.

so i realised i haven't updated this in awhile, i thought i had Updated this build thread but its been deleted? weird anyway, j160 bellhousing adaptor and Engine/Trans mounts from Brendan at Niteparts turns out 2zz are much harder to find than you would expect took afew months but this turned up this week. Started giving it a good clean and found some mystery RTV while giving it a scrub down which is scary but hopefully its just a leaky front cover/tensioner. Started chipping away at afew rust spots, I've never really done rust work before but limited tools and only a tig make it harder than it should be, good enough for a race car. also someone had decided the C Piller vents weren't cool so deleted them, so i deleted the delete so i not have piller vents again In between all of this i finally got the rollcaged all ticked off and homologated so i could get on with painting the interior so i don't have to be worried about stuff rusting, Water blasted the underside while it was semi warm today to get it ready for underseal to pretty it up.

I’ve worked on afew cnc tube benders in the past. You are limited with them to do longer radius bends Depending on which die you have and also not being able to do compound bends and also distance between bends usually needs to have a small straight between them. great for making exhausts though!

I know swapping in gt4 celica gearbox/transfer case is common in the gtx/gtr world to have a near indestructible driveline, is there any options for the gtir?

Managed to pick up a pioneer lonesome car-boy component stack which consists of a kp-707g cassette player, cd5 equaliser, gm120 amp, I already have a gm4 amp too, and a pair of ts-x9 to top it off, it also came with a pair of small ts-1655 speakers and a Kex-70 tape player too. spent afew hours cleaning with a tooth brush and metal polish to get rid of some corrosion and got it looking presentable. tried to bench test the setup but it doesn’t seem to be playing ball, I got it all connected up, the tape gear spin if I falsely load it without a tape, but as soon as I load a tape in it doesn’t seem to have enough juice to spin the tape. I don’t know enough about this stuff to pull it to bits. I also need a volume knob as the one on my cassette player has been snapped off so if anyone has a spare sitting around would be much oh appreciated. also pulled the original floor mats out of the boot this weekend and 40 years hasn’t been super nice to the rubber on these and the drive side is starting to crumble apart but they are near impossible to find so will do for now, gave them a scrub up and they came up pretty nice.

Yeah Darren messaged me, once shipping they become not super cheap, will wait until I have some wheels and front suspension before sorting tires

It sounds like you need to run 13’s

Yeah that works out great, I will most probably start with using 185/60/13 semi slicks all round for now, means I can keep it stock body and until I decide what o want to do. Deff don’t want to end up running 10” wheels, you can still buy 200/540/13 tires brand new for not bad money which is an option later down the track.

4.9 will be great for drifting though… would love to have a easy setup that works for grip and drift, I can get 2 different sets of front knuckles so that makes changing the alignment easy. Just always so tempted to run trs slicks but that requires big guards which makes it hard to make cool wheels fit for drifting

The most frustrating thing about them it would be so cool if they had changed bore and stroke to make it work

Yeah I didn’t intend on using a rough shell but it’s what was available at the time. I haven’t don’t any driveline calcs yet but it should work good and I’m hoping 4.9 makes it work out good. Will be a 13” with 185/60 or a 14” with 185/50. Undecided what wheels I’m going to run yet. When I built my starlet it was 4.9 with a t50 and 13” trs slicks it was 175kph at 7500rpm which was perfect for manfeild. I can get stock lsd’s from the utes but hoping to get a plate type lsd for it.

I’m still yet to grab one, missed out on a celica at turners that sold for 1k, wreckers seem to want 2k for a motor. Must have come down in price now.

Yeah they seem to make around 140kw in stock used form at the wheels which is plenty! I’m use to a stock 16v 4age so it will be heaps. afew things I seems with the 2zz is upgrade oil pump gears as they like to explode and valve springs. you don’t want the s13 stuff. It’s terrible for handling on ke/ae cars

It will just be a stock 2zz with equal length headers and either blacktop 20v or s65 itb’s. Would like to get a spare head to do some cams and porting later down the track but main focus is get it running and driving. Yeah the 2zz has some good potential I feel quite popular in Jamaica and some other countries in fwd corollas making good power. there is a lot of cool modern motor with small displacement that make realllly good power that would be cool to do, I friend showed me the Honda L15 the other day which looks super cool. b1600 diff use to be commonly used, I’ve got caliper brackets to run s13 Silvia discs and Nissan pulsar calipers so isn’t too hard to make that work.

talk me into not finishing this project

so after getting rid of my ae85 levin because i made it too nice to bash about at the track i was on the lookout for a suitable car to buy/build to have some fun in, bonus of this car is its also rego on hold if i get that way inclined. This popped on on market place for sale, the previous owner had JB Fab here build a 6 point cage and equal length 4 link setup with a b1600 diff, photos below how i got the car. It came with a lot of spares and all the parts needed to put a rolling body together really. i got it home yesterday and started attacking some dodgy spots with a wire wheel to see what i'm dealing with rust wise, didn't find too many surprises only a couple of bad spots that need patches. Removed everything that was bolted on, it had Silvia front suspension which i will be getting rid of and i have ae86 coilovers and knuckles to replace this. before i got this car i had already purchased an engine mount and j160 adaptor kit from Niteparts for 2zz. looking into diff options for the b1600 diff, i've seen a bit online about what heads fit into the b1600 setup. Ideally i would like a nice 2 way diff for this, I saw that potentially fc3s nuggets bolt in? i have a 4.9 Ratio at the moment which is perfect. current plan of attack is: - Rust patches. - wirewheel and re undercoat the underside. - Doors and front end to panel beater for a quick panel and paint. - Weld up all the unnecessary holes in the engine bay. - Mockup j160/2zz combo and start headers and itb setup. - Sort rear brake setup on the diff. - Powedercoat/Zinc everything to make it nice Discussion - Discussion

Hi all, I’m currently looking at getting some itb’s for a new project, I’m needing something around 50-51mm in diameter needing in a set of 4 ideally. does anyone know of any motorcycle itb’s, or something off a random car that are around this? I know there is aftermarket options but I have short arms and deep pockets. I’m aware bmw s54 etc but again, spendy… has anyone delved into this hard and come out with any good options?

So I’ve been in a battle with these back wheels, 14x9.5 -33 doesn’t fit well in stock rear guards as I wanted and I still had no luck trying to find factory 9j A type mk3. I got these polished up and painted them in a krylon glitter blast paint which was a pain in the ass to spray. after much deliberation I decided to stick with the ones I have, I then decided I should try and narrow the subframe to fit, I friend mentioned another old Toyotas axles weee slightly shorter and could work, so i set about jigging up the subframe and moving the trailing arm mounts in 12mm or so. Before After Both images on an unrolled stock guard which worked great. while I was there I decided I might aswell raise the diff and make a bit of an exhaust tunnel. I’m terrible at taking photos as I do stuff so here’s the finished result, only needed to fold the lip up of the guard and it fits great. needing to drop a tire size in the front to 165/60 and get it lower all round but it’s starting to get there. I also got a custom made Jeff emporium steering wheel which turned out great and he also refurbished the trd gearknob that came on the car too. still need to clean to OEM floor mats and get them back in the car to tidy up the interior

Looking good! I cut off the entire yuck bit around the rear brake switch and relocated the light switch onto the rear brake leaver with a little bracket

Slowly chipping away at this, got the motor 90% complete, just need to pull apart the accessories to vapour blast all them and it’s ready to drop in. Big shoutout to @HighLUX for sending me down a lower timing belt cover in good condition as mine had been mangled when it was pulled out of the original car. I’ve also been in the hunt since I got this for for a pair of 14x9j A type (-25) ssr mk3 with original ssr lips to match my pair of 8j A type mk3, finally found some on yahoo when they arrived they looked wide and I measured them up and they turned out to be 14x9.5 A type (-30) which is wider than I wanted and a little annoying, but have decided I’ll just make em fit, will need a little more guard work but that’s no biggie. I stripped the paint off the centres and a thinking I will vapour blast and clear coat the faces? If anyone has any suggestions on the best way/any other ways to keep a raw face nice that would be handy, and they are getting sent off to get the lips all polished up and tidied.

No clue on the exhaust setup but this is a goood sounding 350z, it makes pretty happy noises at the end doing skids

It’s a factory manual car with w55 so I don’t have to worry about any trans wiring

So after stripping the motor down everything got sent to powder coat/zinc plating/vapour blasting. Ordered all new timing gear and a full gasket kit to freshen the motor. also managed to score a digital dash from japan, the dash is the easy part. Finding a digital fuel sender and repinning my loom to suit is the harder part. now the puzzle of finding where everything on the motor goes and i can think about swapping it, maybe paint the engine bay first?