RXFORD

Chop chop....

Try swap the pos and neg cables over to work in Dcep instead of electrode neg like it is.

Good tip. Maybe I should start wearing pants around the shop. Wouldn't be fun getting my pubes ripped out by my spinny tools.

Because you are old and blind, grab one of your fancy new workbench lights and have a good look for any swelling of seams in these areas. Could be hidden by sealer. 32s & 33s are notorious for blowing out around them. Might have to have a gander along the rail seam from the strut side, from memory they are triple layered. Top seams of strut towers, and the gusset between firewall and top guard mount area usually go at some stage too. While you are at it, around the outside of the area infront of the A-pillars below cowl. And the bottoms seats of the front and rear windows are another common rust spot. Oh and the chassis railettes under floor pans too. Hopefully yours doesn't have any of these issues, but they all seem to do it at some stage. Would hate for you to spend all that time fitting the Ld28 just to have to pull it out again for more rust work.

Rear tailgate window rubber perimeter trim.

I have a rear window with seal and stainless trim if you would like a spare.

A build thread? From Dudley? You feeling alright, must have gotten laid or something today? Can confirm super good wee car. Got to hoon it round the block. Took me back time when I was 16 and me and da bois were baseball bat guard rolling these things to fit spittys and eagers with no springs. I'm disappointed you didn't add pics of the super ultra mega fucked parts bugeye you ferals drove back.

Rfid Cert donuts cause chemtrails?

Its a thing that responsible adults and non-poor people have so thier insurance is valid.

I rekon that munters will soon treat cars with the rfid/gps/facial rec/ankle monitor cert tags will the Lhd Rotarys of the sale world. $20k less for same car with one compared to a old plate style.

What diam wire are you running in mig? Getting doors off yahoo shipped over would be an expensive exercise. Surely a local shop could do some corner patches for ya to save the hassle of importing shit thats probably just as bad?

Go round to a few old panel shops that have been around for ages and see if they have an older Car-O-Liner Mark4 setup that they might not use anymore. That would be the ultimate setup to use. You might get lucky and be able to snag one with measuring gear for a few grand as most smash repair shops have upgraded to speed-benches/digital gear. Or you might be able to make this work... https://www.facebook.com/share/1A3VN7fsgK/

I can't see why there would be any issues with extending the front subframe legs as long as the material isn't a fancy high strength steel and you match material thickness with suitable gussets/fishplates. It may be something you need to start mocking up and tack togethor, then take to your certifier or send pics to Lvvta to make recommendations on. Its just going to be hard for them to ok something unless you do a super detailed 3d model. Same again for your plan for the rear mounts to the chassis. As long as the area where the stud is gets strengthened well so the load is spread to avoid cracking then it should be fine. The shock towers will definitely need reinforcing to be suitable for a coilover strut. Adding a 'strut brace' would help too whether its fixed in place or removeable.

If you have a reasonable budget for this conversion, another option might be to have a chat with Rob at RaceFab down in Chch. He makes pretty wizzbang tubular/moly subframes and I'm sure he would have an s13 jig that could be tweaked to suit the z31 pickup points if you sent him a z31 jig to measure. This way it would make for a 'bolt-in' setup.

Ok, so I have a similar project and after many discussions with Clint, I was educated on the fact that your Gvm is dictated by what Landata has your vehicle on file for. (In my case its the Import Document as its not complied yet) That means if you plan to build a vehicle to carry a decent weight, you have to start off with something that has the highest gvm up to 3500kg possible. In my case I have to be careful because my gvm isn't all thay great, and after adding a heavier motor, rear axle, wheels, tray etc than stock, I'm decreasing the load weight and still have to be able to have 5 or 6 passengers at 80kg to keep all my seats. Not sure what vehicle you had in mind, but it would have to be something that still has at least 900kg of spare load mass ontop of your tare weight to stay within your gvm.