RXFORD

Its fuckin eassssssssssyyyy mang, so many people over-complicate it in videos and talk like its rocket surgery. All that matters, is that the leading(cutting) edge, is higher than the trailing, otherwise it doesn't cut, it just skates over the surface. Start grinding at the trailing edge and roll toward leading, flicking off the leading edge quickly so it doesn't end up radiused. Flip and do other edge keeping in mind the centrepoint needs to be center.

Drill an 1/8" pilot hole, doesn't have to be all the way through, then measure the spot weld diam and find a drillbit a tiny bit bigger. Sharpen it to a very shallow angle then while drilling, lay the drill over and swing it around so the shallow edges catch the panel until the spotweld pops before it goes all the way through. Don't have to go buying expensive 'spotweld' drillbits when ya do it this way. And you get good at sharpening.

Boosted? If so, is the non-return between intake and booster around the correct way?

Why do they need to be in an enclosed box?

Needs more mexican flags

As for kits, I just piece togethor my own for whatever application. I have an s13 here I have been doing for a while. BC struts with the common m53x2 threaded body, and Universal Air bags and billet thread on mounts. Its reasonably cut up and modified though to get it down more. Same deal with my Lexus. BC stuff is decent and has been around a while now. Same with Universal Air. Theres tricks that can be done to the BC upper and lower mounts on some struts to get the cars sitting lower. Universal Air has a bunch of bags available, just gotta measure what sort of travel you need and match something up. Their bags can be used on stock struts too as they are fully sealed, just need to weld a lower mount to the strut body. Kits generally don't go low enough for my liking so I don't use them. But I can see the benefits for people with lesser ability. Bolt in, connect some wires and away ya go. I would imagine Airlift would have strut kit for the Silvias. For the air management side I'd only bother with the Airlift 3H (arm sensor) system which I have in my Lexus, Accuair (arm sensor) system or just a simple momentary switch setup with gauges to manually set your height. Pressure based levelling systems are pretty rubbish. I don't want to subject my customers having China levelling systems that will only be around for a couple years in their rides so I don't use any off-brand stuff.

Springrate is progressive with bags. As the bag compresses the springrate increases at the same time as the bags volume decreases and compresses the air inside Like you mentioned, more pressure, higher springrate but the trade-off is a higher rideheight. To soften the springrate but avoid having a higher ride height, you can run a larger volume bag. 80psi in different volume bags will feel wildly different. Most minitruck guys for example run a smaller bag in front because its easier to mount, then run a bigger bag in rear because theres heaps of room. But thats the wrong way to go about it as you might need 110psi up front to lift the weight of engine etc enough to get turning clearance. So you get high pressure in a smaller volume bag thats going to get compressed/stiffer even more under bump travel. Then out back, it might only take 40psi to get full lift, but such little pressure in big volume bag makes it super soft and you end up with a heap of body roll. So switching them around and having more volume/less pressure up front, and less volume/more pressure in the rear is the better way to go. The other way to adjust springrate is with a bellcrank/cantilever setup where you can adjust the ratio easily or have multiple mounting points on a-arm. Don't have that luxury with McPherson struts though.

Speaking of ae86 beams stuff, I will have beams 3s from the ex-LOSER ae86 drift car of Brendan Dunker back in my hands in next couple weeks and assessed ready to sell...

How funny would it be to put Vp commo 304 in it.

Louis Vuitton or Gucci logos stenciled all over it?

If you have at least 6.5 full turns of the nuts on a 1.5p thread then you'll be gravy.

That cracks fine. Its only 1/10th of the total weld surface area. More importantly,it should fail cert for that horrible choice of chassis colour.

Oh man that sucks... On the off chance you're thinking about a more reliable engine, I rekon an Ld28 wouldn't have done that...

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/17847-trademe-auctions-cars/page/1037/#findComment-2785964

Wipe some lanolin over it, or some patina preserver. Good score though. I had wondered how you were getting on with this and that cab from aussie. Did you see the Dyna food truck in Christchurch?