RXFORD

Haha I bet. @square would be the man to ask about those toyota boat anchors seeing as he has one in his van.

Compounds....

Thanks, sorry I should have been a bit more informative. I was hoping to here what other have used without failure as there seems to be a big price difference between some listed through supercheap/repco etc, and Davies Craig / Spal switches that are $100 upwards. Don't want to buy some cheap thing and have it fail, but it others have used them successfully then I'l take the punt.

He sold them, I tried to find them as BC obviously stopped selling them, but had no luck.

I'm needing a thermo switch that I can fit into an Ali radiator hose adaptor/joiner. I can weld in a threaded boss to suit no problem so thread doesn't matter, but being that its not earthing on head/rad, I need recommendations on a good switch that I'm guessing will be 2 wire. Doesn't need to be a fancy adjustable one or dual temp, just looking to make the current setup, which is a manual dash switch, more user freindly. Cheers

He parted it out and left the City game.

Fuel line through the tunnel is a Te Kamo Dave kinda mod. Gonna need like 14 safety loops for that.

Just cut and weld them. I mean its not like anythings going to be legal or safe anyway...

Timings lights and Haynes workshop manuals are cheap. Should be able to get both for less than $100. You really are pissing in the wind without investing in them. You will have to find a new starting point now. Wind the mixture screw all the way in. Then wind it out 1 full turn. Set the dizzy timing to tdc then advance it a touch. This should be enough to get it running. Advance it a little more til it sounds smooth. Put new plugs in it, run it for a while, then pull the plugs and see what they look like. Any time you adjust the idle or mixture screws you need to cound how many turns/half turns etc you do so can go back to that spot if need be.

Being that its non-critical and there is 4 per side I would be surprised if you got pulled up on them. Tacked on vs fully welded is better too. It doesn't really say anything in the book about that sorta thing specifically, other than the fasteners being a suitable size and grade for the application, which could be interpreted differentely depending on certifier. @cletus might have to offer his opinion on this one.

Captive as in a 'cage' style that floats or threaded boss welded to a plate? If its welded, or you want it weldable, then should be a 'mild' tensile. Anything over 5.5 is starting to get into the medium and 8.8 is high so shouldn't be welded unless you have a suitable proceedure. I have a customer ute here that has had 8.8 bolts welded to lower arms by original shop that built it for front shock mounts. They will need cutting off and something more suitable welded on. Things you are more likely to get pulled up on would be thread engagement. I generally try to use the minimum 1.5x bolt diam rule for engagement on captive threaded boss'. And also correct shank lengths so loading isn't on threads. This is more for critical stuff though. What have you done that you are worried about?

If it were me, I would find out if removing the oem captive threads, then swapping the mounting bar to the top side of the lower arm would be fine. That way the compression load is on the arm and not solely relying on the tensile strength of fasteners. Also, our resident certifier Clint has customers in the Puke area, as does his boss Mark whos workshop is located there. There is a certain irony about asking for free advise on this site, then not supporting the guy who answers our questions, and then moaning about the situation with the certifier you did use...

You could get a job at pitstop with perfect Te Kamo spec exhaust welds like that.

Thats factory on those things. Nothing to be concerned about.

Not overthinking at all. This picture shows whats going on. The bend is where all welds are, marked in black. Unless the rule has been relaxed recently, welding the cast seal flange isn't allowed for cert. Regardless, it wouldn't achieve anything as they slide over/locate on the housing tube, which has bent from welding. To re-align the flange, the tube itself would be have to be cut and re-buttwelded, which is how I narrowed the housing originally and many other housings the same way. But doing this without straightening the housing tube would result in a big step in the tube. Rewelding it like that with a 6mm step is ghetto as fuck and not the kind of work I do. So, I will see if fire will allow the bent area to relax and re-align. From past experience straightening peoples bent axles, it won't as alot of bracketry and welding in one spot acts as a gusset and makes that area pretty solid. If it doesn't relax, I will heat the area inboard of the bracketry to re-align the housing tubes and see how parallel the flanges end up.