RXFORD

Louis Vuitton or Gucci logos stenciled all over it?

If you have at least 6.5 full turns of the nuts on a 1.5p thread then you'll be gravy.

That cracks fine. Its only 1/10th of the total weld surface area. More importantly,it should fail cert for that horrible choice of chassis colour.

Oh man that sucks... On the off chance you're thinking about a more reliable engine, I rekon an Ld28 wouldn't have done that...

https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/17847-trademe-auctions-cars/page/1037/#findComment-2785964

Wipe some lanolin over it, or some patina preserver. Good score though. I had wondered how you were getting on with this and that cab from aussie. Did you see the Dyna food truck in Christchurch?

That paint/patina is sweet!

Imagine if OS Drag Day opened itself up to no reg no wof cars. You'd have half of Te Kamo bringing their clunkers down.

Rad pic! Thanks Markku.

Deezil spam. Funny that ya can't pass a wof because a sun faded or frayed seatbelt might kill you, yet they are fine to sling round a 400+kg lump of iron.

If Rego is on hold, you don't need repair cert. If reg was dead, and it required a re-vin, then he would be right. But in this case hes not. Only thing that may happen if the repairs are obvious and/or structural, is come Wof time, you may be asked for a 'panel beaters report' to say that the repairs are decent.

To be honest I didn't go last year, but he came round not long after the event and was rattling on about how well it went. Said he would like to see more of the kinda stuff thats at my shop (early jap & minitruck) but I said they would have to be open to 'half built / in progress' projects for people to be keen. He said the Club display side of it would be perfect for that. So food for thought if anyone is thinking about it.

My old work neighbour Peter Ellmers who was Kicker/Mothers Nz originally started Chrome as a track day. He judges at Sema each year with the Mothers team and is still involved in the judging and organising side at Chrome which is likely why the quality and variety is a fair bit better than some of the other events here.

Ah yeh I'm with ya now. Centre stub acts as a locator and the shoulder butts up and gets welded. I had a mate in Tga do a mazda set like that a couple years back and they failed cert due to the no plug weld thing. I'm unsure if thats been relaxed now. Would have to tag @cletus in or email Lvvta.

You said the have a "stub at bottom that is a tight fit within shock tube"... Did you mean they are a tight fit into knuckle? The 2 pics are not the same. The top pic is a threaded tube with a stub at bottom that is one piece. The bottom pic is a sleeved and welded setup. I suspect the top pic is designed to be a tight fit into the knuckle, then welded from the underside like an oem tube would to stop it from rotating in the knuckle. But lvvta don't allow welding to casting/forgings so I doubt that would fly over here. I'm unsure if the press in fitment on its own would be good enough or if any other form of retaining like a grub screw/pin would be allowed as it would require drilling the knuckle.

So they basically get an ae86 strut, cut it , add the threaded sleeve and sell them pre welded like that? If they come as pictured, that wouldn't meet the criteria in the Ccm as the smaller oem tube doesn't slip at least the oem tube diam up into the new threaded tube, and as you said, theres no plug weld space. If you can buy them unwelded and get the threaded tube without that stupid window cut into it, then you could just build your own same as Vk327 is going to do. I had some Ve Commo Shockworks adjustables Ok'd by Clint a couple weeks back. I hadn't dealt with them before. According to Ben Jenkins, Shockworks stuff it just BC suspension that Shockworks order to thier own specs, make fabricated mounts for and put thier own logo on.

Also, if you havn't brought the coilovers already, might pay to measure the original tube diam, vs the internal diam of the new tube. I've had to have 3 pairs of new threaded tubes remade to be a tight fit over the years, as BC tubes can have too much clearance and be bit sloppy for some vehicles.

Close. Its minimum 10mm from the WELD to oem knuckle. So safe to say 15mm between new strut tube and knuckle to allow for weld. However from experience, the design of the knuckle dictates how far away the new strut tube should be placed. Sometimes the caliper brackets or knuckle webbing get in the way of the the torch end/neck. If you get a bad tungsten angle you will get undercut or lack of fill on one of the faces. So I would suggest mocking up before you cut the original strut tube too short and seeing if you can get a nice consistant tungsten angle without the neck hitting the knuckle. You may find it has to be pushed away from knuckle a bit more. Its 2 x 10mm plug welds or 4x 8mm. Also must be tig welded

Haha I bet. @square would be the man to ask about those toyota boat anchors seeing as he has one in his van.

Compounds....

Thanks, sorry I should have been a bit more informative. I was hoping to here what other have used without failure as there seems to be a big price difference between some listed through supercheap/repco etc, and Davies Craig / Spal switches that are $100 upwards. Don't want to buy some cheap thing and have it fail, but it others have used them successfully then I'l take the punt.

He sold them, I tried to find them as BC obviously stopped selling them, but had no luck.

I'm needing a thermo switch that I can fit into an Ali radiator hose adaptor/joiner. I can weld in a threaded boss to suit no problem so thread doesn't matter, but being that its not earthing on head/rad, I need recommendations on a good switch that I'm guessing will be 2 wire. Doesn't need to be a fancy adjustable one or dual temp, just looking to make the current setup, which is a manual dash switch, more user freindly. Cheers

He parted it out and left the City game.

Fuel line through the tunnel is a Te Kamo Dave kinda mod. Gonna need like 14 safety loops for that.