CUL8R

^ Correction on the Barra please. Barra's have to use ECU for ignition - oil pump & distributor drive is in different location, cannot use the XF Dizzy with the gear drive flipped on dizzy. Just FYI Barra's cannot be used in stockcars as they are Twin Cam. SOHC only - this is why Intechs are used. Intech's (EL-AU series) that can take a distributor (xf dizzy for instance) , modify multipoint manifold for a 2bbl carb holley or webber etc- Would certainly be easy enough to do. Brother and I re-use them in derby cars we've had Personally though you'll spend more on the ECU side of things for a Barra, but is a far better choice, I'd assume you'd go to a nice smooth late model Auto rather than keeping it manual? Barra's themselves can be picked up cheaply, but the money is in the ECU side. Ultimately you want something with ease of getting parts in the future and common. Problem with RB,JZ is they like the Intech are getting a bit long in the tooth now..

Remove the plugs, turn it over by hand to make sure there's no tight spots. Once you know it completes a revolution without issue, crank on starter motor still without the spark plugs in until oil pressure builds (ideally a new gauge into oil pressure sender) . May as well check your points etc. However you'll probably find the gaskets in the carbs will leak once you start feeding it fresh gas. For the sake of trying to get it going you'd gravity feed some from a small bottle to the carb inlet line, if you are trying to get it to pull through from the tank, could try backfeeding some fuel to the mechanical fuel pump - may come around Probably still have to bottle feed it some straight down the throat of the carb tbh regardless From experience dont put anti freeze in it, just so long as you have water in it once its running. I wouldn't worry about changing the oil till you know it goes. It doesnt go "off" as such. Once you've had it going and got some temp into it, then dump it out if you wish and put fresh in. No point in putting fresh oil in if it ends up being ceased...

Not much help at all to you, have always liked these and been lucky enough to work on a couple over the years. Last one I got in a set of Work Wheels for ex Japan staggered fitment - guy is probably late 50's so quite cool to have done. Sadly they seem to be afflicted with tin worm worse than others of the period Whats the overall plans? Kudos on the workmanship so far!

You might also have a small amount of success elongating the Subframe, slotting the mounting holes outward for the LCA? (thats more of a rally trick. Im not as much of fan of that method) Even though its double shear, you can't do them up as tight without wrecking the bushes to keep it in place. Might be worth looking into the LCA balljoint - some cars you can mix/match parts from other models that have a slightly different mounting flange. Ie longer flange would give more negative camber. I would be careful on widening the track too much, be worried about axle shaft lengths/engagement in the box end.

Sorry, I typed drums, but could equally run the discs too

Have you tipped in the front hubs on the struts? You could either add offset camber bolts to the upper bolt hole, or oval out the holes on the strut itself for additional camber for a start?

The Borg Warner 28 spline are the same as your 9" 28 spline.. Just incase you wanted to use 2x EA-EL axles & drums etc? Which is the small taper axle bearings?

Very nice choice and top notch job refurbishing them!

^ @ Alex , no the Swift Sport are 5/114.3 Was about to say they look good with R33 wheels on them..

Well done on all the parts. Always enjoy your updates. How much of those parts there are Genuine vs Reproduction? Either way Im sure the bank account has been thoroughly drained!

Cool project, should be rather rapid little car indeed. Brother had a injected one for awhile If I remember factory front spoiler and side skirts, Rear Black Rubber. I want to say it was on 14" alloys too , but cant quite remember now. It was pretty light weight though

What about adding a 45 off the rear of your shifter housing and bolt through what was the old support for the shifter housing- tying in to the rear

Did you end up getting a hurst shifter bracket? I find if you use ebay, change your area code to USA (use beverley hills 90210 for instance) then you'll get alot more options come up - should be heaps on there Is that 8.8" completely stock width?

Technically he can do mobile - but more for massive jobs on machinery - you would be better taking parts to him or whole vehicle. From memory he even has a hoist (for doing compliance cars etc normally) Fast Blast - he has a yard in Hornby and still has his yard in marshlands. Blaine is a top bloke and very thorough - and can even advise what areas might be problematic etc Has forklift also for ease of getting things on off if required.

Axlelign should be able to do the diff, otherwise Ray @ Blackwells Commercial has an induction wand..