johnny.race

Members
  • Content Count

    461
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,060 Excellent

About johnny.race

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Interests
    Feral Pigs

Converted

  • Local Area
    Manawatu

Recent Profile Visitors

648 profile views
  1. johnny.race

    Diffs

    This is a 1350 setup. The cap diameter of the UJ is approx 1 3/16" and the cross is around the 3 5/8" mark, when its fitted. The part number for the UJ is U 1640. This is the cheaper model that features no grease nipple.
  2. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Those Falcons, Holdens ... they are all a bit on the small side if you are running something like a 9" I reckon. You go through the trouble and expense to install a strong diff then handicap the deal by running a small UJs if running anything off a coon or commy. The black yoke in the pic below is a 1350 OEM 9" item. The rusty one next to it is one I found here that came from off a 90 something Coon. I dunno what size it is but probably a 1330 or similar at a guess. I have seen plenty of 1310 stuff - they are puny. Another 1350 one but a billet by Strange.
  3. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I've never really looked into it but will say this - 9" diffs run a range of UJ's. I've seen 1330's and 1350's on ones sitting here OEM. And I've seen what looks similar in size to a 1310 come off BW78's so yeah dunno ... but 1350 is the good size matey.
  4. Yeah, its a lot of work though. The same thing has to happen on the other side of the chassis also - for the idler arm. I did it the way seen in the pic the last time I did it but wondered if there was something easier. I've mucked around with a heap of Hilux 2WD chassis stuff from the 80's but have never come across a pwr steer 56/57. I shoulda used a LN85 from the get go. They all look the same but they are not. This one above is a 56 with a 85 front clip grafted on. The join is under the engine plate mount with the fish plates acting as plate mount reinforcement/locating tang also. I have another one to do but this one is going to be street driven so was looking for a factory install option as first dibs.
  5. Does anyone know (for sure) if the LN56 (mid 80's ... 84 to 88) 2WD ute ever came out with power steering? Ever seen or owned one? Talking 2WD not 4WD. Ta.
  6. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Cheers mate. I was wondering what it was going to look like. What diameter are you going for?
  7. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I am posting couple of pics so someone can have a look at them. Axle resplining stuff. BW78 Falcon axle shortened and resplined for use in the passenger side of an early 9". Disc brakes are the added bonus.
  8. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Yeah, there is a lot of work and figuring out to get everything where they need to be I would be guessing. The distance between each axle differs between the big Ford and the BW78. I have narrowed both and one you do everything from the rear meaning the driver axle is on your right hand side. The 9" is done from its from front and the same axle is now on your left. What a mind fuck, lol.
  9. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No, I haven't matey.
  10. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Any diff that is running 2 axles the same length has a pinion off set from center. Most diffs that feature differing length axles in the rear (in OEM form) will have the pinion centered.
  11. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Yeah, that'd be right ... near all Hilux diffs run two the same length axles and feature a pinion that is offset towards the driver side around 28mm in OEM form. Matches your hanger off set pretty much well.
  12. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Sometimes the chain and the jack swap positions, but pretty much like this for the most part. I use heat with this setup too sometimes. I use big blocks of wood too. It depends how much it needs to move and which part needs to do the moving. I don't (ever, lol) bend it with the bar running right through either. The bar is basically for checking. Some cunts actually weld them up with the bar still in them then wonder why it becomes stucked' in there.
  13. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I ran the alignment bar through a couple of OEM length/uncut housings today in order to check their suitability for a job. Sometimes when a certain pinion offset and width of diff is wanted, it can be got by cutting only one side of correctly selected factory width housing. The challenge then becomes one of sourcing that width that is in a usable condition ...especially on the side that you are not going to shorten. Candidate on the bench. The first side looks pretty good. Its almost on and for a factory ute diff with a zillion mils on it - I'd call it straight. Note, the bearing cup assembly can't be pushed on by hand when its being held center to the axle axis by the alignment bar. But take the bar away and it'll slip straight in and work/look correctly. Pity this is the side that's getting chopped. Meanwhile at the other end ... Near all of the OEM width ones I've checked (but I don't do all of them) are somewhere inbetween these two. Its a funny old world ... demanding tolerances measured in 0.000"s is the only acceptable standard for some parts of them while other parts ... try but yeah ... nah. lol! Ps. My bar and dummy bearings are good if you were wondering and the stuff I do comes out straaight as! (really) Churr.
  14. This sounds ruff as fuck but I reckon its better than thinking you can use a normal lathe tooling setup to do it at home and get a guaranteed decent result. Plus it'd leave a decent cross hatched surface unlike a cutting tool would. I've seen attempts at skimming rotors on a lathe before. I've seen what happens when a single sided lathe tool hits a hard/hot spot and minutely bounces. If you can exert accurate control over a grinder there are a lot of things one can do in the shed-rat world and expect professional level results. I reckon anyway.
  15. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No mate, never.