johnny.race

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About johnny.race

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    Feral Pigs

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  1. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Sometimes the chain and the jack swap positions, but pretty much like this for the most part. I use heat with this setup too sometimes. I use big blocks of wood too. It depends how much it needs to move and which part needs to do the moving. I don't (ever, lol) bend it with the bar running right through either. The bar is basically for checking. Some cunts actually weld them up with the bar still in them then wonder why it becomes stucked' in there.
  2. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I ran the alignment bar through a couple of OEM length/uncut housings today in order to check their suitability for a job. Sometimes when a certain pinion offset and width of diff is wanted, it can be got by cutting only one side of correctly selected factory width housing. The challenge then becomes one of sourcing that width that is in a usable condition ...especially on the side that you are not going to shorten. Candidate on the bench. The first side looks pretty good. Its almost on and for a factory ute diff with a zillion mils on it - I'd call it straight. Note, the bearing cup assembly can't be pushed on by hand when its being held center to the axle axis by the alignment bar. But take the bar away and it'll slip straight in and work/look correctly. Pity this is the side that's getting chopped. Meanwhile at the other end ... Near all of the OEM width ones I've checked (but I don't do all of them) are somewhere inbetween these two. Its a funny old world ... demanding tolerances measured in 0.000"s is the only acceptable standard for some parts of them while other parts ... try but yeah ... nah. lol! Ps. My bar and dummy bearings are good if you were wondering and the stuff I do comes out straaight as! (really) Churr.
  3. johnny.race

    Brake disc machining - cost?

    This sounds ruff as fuck but I reckon its better than thinking you can use a normal lathe tooling setup to do it at home and get a guaranteed decent result. Plus it'd leave a decent cross hatched surface unlike a cutting tool would. I've seen attempts at skimming rotors on a lathe before. I've seen what happens when a single sided lathe tool hits a hard/hot spot and minutely bounces. If you can exert accurate control over a grinder there are a lot of things one can do in the shed-rat world and expect professional level results. I reckon anyway.
  4. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No mate, never.
  5. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Ahh, ok then, @yetchh was right, I stand corrected. It was a later coon I saw the bum of. Sweet. Water blast and tuck these things away for a rainy day and tear down. They are all LSD's too. I'm wondering if that ute one might be a 25 spliner.
  6. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Hmmm, maybe I got the XD part wrong. The only distinguishable part to me was a rear tail light and it looked like from what i remember as being XD. I'm not a Fordy guy and only know then by body shape pretty much well. Did the later ones (the next ones) have XD-ish type tail lights also? The car had been munted by the loader and digger before I got told about them. Of note, the later one has a link setup and not leaf. Would that say i was wrong thinking it was an XD I was looking at? When did the coons go to that 4 link?
  7. johnny.race

    Diffs

    His paint doesn't shine anymore and he hasn't got an un-dinged panel to his name. He's runs leaf springs in the front and is almost topped out at the legal speed limit. 26 years young and still the fucking business! Coon diffs. Thought of you @igor :)) Hey @yetchh I had to go back and check those pics you posted earlier. Two of these diffs feature vented rotors. I'd seen the later type before but not the cast iron type. The car was an XC by the looks of it. They are like your ones aye? It was stripped and had been fucked over by the loader, but XC as far as I could tell. The later one was an XD and the drum one was out of a ute that was either an XB or an XC as far as I could too. The old stuff is still out there, just gotta look wayyy harder now. All of them measured in at 1550mm outside to outside give or take a few mm either way. I have got a couple of 9"'s to do so have been tuned into BW/Ford sorta stuff of late. Stay warm.
  8. johnny.race

    Diff - building in then measuring 'toe in' in a live axle.

    Yep, ta for this. I had a gut feeling about saying no to this. Someone asked me if I would do it for them. Glad I said nup. Cool. Ta.
  9. Has anyone had any experience putting 'toe in' into a live axle (diff)? Hows it done? How'd you measure it and how'd you go with it?
  10. johnny.race

    School me on rocker adjusters

    I must be missing something here ... why is the head coming off before you have determined where you have a geometry and or bind problem? This sorta shit generally takes two people ... one doing the turning and the other armed with a flashlight and magnifying glass. Are these engines known to be problematic in terms of piston to valve clearance?
  11. johnny.race

    Mechanic is trying to cheat me - help required

    What are you on about bud? How else do you take play out of a wheel bearing on a IFS on a RWD vehicle? I took it as the OP was talking about one of the fronts needing adjusting. It'd have to be because the rear ones on those are not adjustable.
  12. johnny.race

    Mechanic is trying to cheat me - help required

    Why wouldn't you recommend adjusting a wheel bearing this way, dude? Is there another way?
  13. johnny.race

    Re-powering newish car with old motor?

    Nothing wrong with cubes and gearing matey. Fuck sensors and all that electronic-trickery stuff. People love V8's. They love the big noise .... they love the big racing. Stay in it.
  14. johnny.race

    Re-powering newish car with old motor?

    Ahhhhh .... a kindred soul!!
  15. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I always thought it would be an axle that lets go in one of these but then again I might be a little axle fixated/biased. I have no real world first hand experience with BW75's. This all makes for interesting reading. In all honesty, most of the damage I have seen in the stuff I am asked to fix or modify has come from shock loading (I guessed you'd call it) brought about when power meets hook. But then that said, I reckon when a certain et/mph is reached, then by nature of the beast you need to get you there - everything is stressed to destruction at some point. I've seen heads out of rides that go out the backdoor at around 200 and their stuff munts.