johnny.race

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Everything posted by johnny.race

  1. johnny.race

    Diffs

    This is D shit ... https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1977146463 Falconfutura on TM. He's full of shit. These are not a straight bolt on for a 9 Inch - any 9 Inch without tremendous effort and cost.
  2. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Notice I make judicious use of the term OEM and go to lengths to ensure the reader is reminded that this/these are the type of axles i am talking about above ie. the ones issued by Ford (or whoever) in the bum or your car as original equipment. My thoughts on the aftermarket axles that I've come into contact outlined later.
  3. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Following on from above ... When commissioning someone to shorten then respline an axle, here are some things to keep in mind. In no particular order If you are having a spline put onto the axle that differs from what was on there OEM, you don't want to be cutting in a spline whose minor diameter (check what it means on the web) is smaller by any significant margin than the OEM spline's minor diameter. Near all OEM axles are case (induction) hardened ie. hardened on the outside and left soft in the middle. Understandably, the more material removed from the 'case', the weaker the axle becomes. Another thing, what you want to be doing is staying away from anything that involves using extreme heat at the pointy end of an OEM axle. You want to be staying away from welding - whether that be for cutting and shutting or using a low hydrogen rod to build up the tapered area behind the factory spline in order that there is material there to cut a new spline into. Welding introduces changes in the parent material due to extreme localized heat. A lot of people know that welded axles are a bad idea but then have no problem agreeing with a machine shop to building up the axles using weld. Go figure. Ask the axle what is the difference. What did it say? Nothing. Because there is no difference... it all introduces extreme heat to the smallest part of the axle. If the axle is going to fail - chances are its going to fail there. The weld never breaks. The part where the weld is attached to the axle breaks. Sometimes the machine shop will tell you that the axle will need heat treating afterwards. I'd go somewhere else or seek a different option (different axle) More stuff. Always ask the machine shop what they are going to use to respline your axle. Ask to look at it. If its not a cutter that features an indexable tip(s) then assume they will soften your axle using heat prior to having at it with a piece of HSS. Walk out. You don't want any heat at the pointy end. Ask them how many passes it takes them to cut the spline. Ask to see the side gear they need to check their work. This is not being cheeky. because if they are not using CNC and most will not for this type of work .... they will be using the apprentice. Resplining work is a balls achingly slow and repetitive process, and is very easy to fuck up. A shit respline job (as in undersized and sloppy) will translate back to you as 'excessive backlash' in your diff head. Think about it. Nek minut, its out with the diffhead chasing a problem that is not there. You paid for extra wear on your axles, lol. I am not exaggerating ... this shit happens. Don't listen to naysayers that say it don't - they have no skin in the game. This is how you really want to approach getting your axle done .... turn up at the machine shop with your axle and side-gear. Let the guy know you know exactly what you are after and how you are going to measure it. Show him the fit on the OEM spline and tell him you want less or the same. Not more. A single pass done by the apprentice in order to save time will almost guarantee and undersized job. You won't know this when you go to pick it up unless you have a side gear to check the fit with in front of them. It all looks shiny upon uplift but shiny does not mean its right. This is just my take on things. Your mileage may vary. More later.
  4. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Just some thoughts. No one knows what material OEM axles are made of except the OEM and you can bet your arse - that they keep that info close to their chest. They are in the car making business to make money. One of the ways they make money is getting ahold of the cheapest material they can get, then turning it into a usable item. This is a very competitive area with massive savings to be had. So held even closer to their bosom is the recipe and cook who mixed this cheap shit all together and got it to a usable state through a proprietary hardening process. You cannot count on this OEM manufactured steel meeting any international standard ie. SAE. Know that a SAE Steel is made to exacting standards that is thoroughly understood the world over. So much of this added to so much of that etc. Furthermore its thoroughly understood what heat treatment processes are needed to be done to a certain type of steel in order to improve its properties so that it will perform satisfactorily in a given application. This kind of stuff is well know the world over so that standards and consistency are maintained. The Heat Treatment places all know what process an SAE steel needs to meet a certain standard. This all falls by the wayside when something comes in to a Heat Treatment place that looks like its made of this' but can't be verified as actually being so. And its right at this point here that a lot of bullshit starts involving the OEM axles and the Barry at the Heat treatment place. More later.
  5. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No Clint, that head was (still is here, lol) a 9" That axle above is from an 8 and 3/4 Chrysler. This will bring warmth to your soul as it did mine, Clint ... Chryslers did the damage in both cases. Both early Hemi's, both with 671's but don't quote me on that because I know there was an 871 in the mix with one of them - but unsure if it made it onto the engine. Glides and mechanical fueling ... you know the story mate - direct drive black belt shit. I love axle talk too. I like hearing about other peoples experiences and passing on my own. Its a specialist area for sure and one where all sorts of shit can happen. Over the years of doing this sorta stuff, I have formed some conclusions about things based on what I have done, seen and read. These are my people. Churr
  6. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No, you are right, Brick. He's a very close bro. He looked after my whare' and whanau when I used to contract offshore. But he knows the rules about shed space. He has his own shed. I'm a half caste too. I deride all colors and castes equally, lol!
  7. johnny.race

    Diffs

    30 Spline. Yeah, they are big. They are bigger than a 28 spline 9" or BW is, and probably close to the same diameter as an OEM 31 Spline Bronco 9" one might be? Being short makes them look a fat too. but they are reasonable sized axles even in OEM form. I am in the diff business bro, they only bring their diff shit here - not their cars. The first problem with Cut to Fit (ctf) axles is the fact they have 30 little stress risers and 30 little troughs where the material has been removed - running down and away from the business end.
  8. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No. I reckon there is more to it.
  9. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I've been to that place you talk about. It is my experience you'd wanting to be revising your figure from say 5mm down to somewhere between 1 - 1.5mm max though if you want to retain any semblance of factory engineered strength about things. It is further my experience that heat treating any OEM axle and expecting a win is snake oil. Just my thoughts bro. The shiny outer is the depth of case hardening, the dull stuff - not so much.
  10. johnny.race

    Diffs

    This came in from out of a bro's car. There is a lesson here for those attempting to skimp in an area than rarely takes prisoners when it decides its had enuff of you. The only way his bacon was saved was through adherence to a scheduled maintenance/regime. This was picked up then. He was using these (wayy) outside of their intended design application as can be seen by the various other bits and pieces that came in with it. Yup, a Cut to Fit 8 and 3/4 MoPar with aftermarket bearing. Check out the drive studs in the flange. When they get this big they are not wheel studs anymore. When they are this size, they fill all of the hole in a mag wheel hole and use hardened washers and nuts to secure the rim. The studs are about the only serious parts of the entire assembly :)) Lol! I've cut a few of these over the years. It doesn't matter what brand they are, they (for the most part) all cut the same. I feel there is a difference between carrying out machine work on cut to fit axles compared to doing the same thing to OEM factory stuff. Some of these cut to fit ones have not much better than silver cheese in the middle of them. I don't think anyone guarantee's them for off road use. I dunno what this one was like in the center as he only brought it in to show me and for me to assist him with measuring up for the new ones. He originally wanted me to cut and untwist ... nahhh!! He stumped up for some through hardened ones and didn't fuck around.
  11. johnny.race

    Diffs

    This has been done to death. Cheers to the clip. I knew you'd been in there with your fly cutter bro, hehe. I'd love to see a pic of those spacers when you can, @flyingbrick Its not an aftermarket retainer is it? The reason I said 9 holes and a register was so that whatever factory design engineering went into the BW - it could be replicated on the Ford. I measured an earlier bracket than yours (but same application) and it came in a 7.5mm thick. Yours looks thicker than this. Hmmmm. Anyway, ta for your post.
  12. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Can use 304 instead of 308, I've used both and there is no real difference I could see. Here is the thing about all of this stuff ... hardened toyo Iron does not respect any cutting tool, hehe. They are all rounded off the same after the first couple of splines. Its sounds like Dad is going to have a go at it with a single point cutter? Tell Dad that he needs to cut splines that are 90 degree's (included) and that this will give that to him ie. 45 degree's on each side of the vertical = 45 + 45 = 90. You cunts know all this. Tell him not to sweat it re the cutter having a sharp point as long as its a 90 degree include one. It can't be too sharp if you know what I mean. This is a shortened 28 spline BW78 axle modded to fit a narrowed 9 inch. Behind it is a momento from an absolute beast!
  13. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I wonder if that spacer you talk of featured 9 holes and a register? Because if it didn't (and don't get me wrong - I respect the hell out of Mr Rattrie) it would make for an inferior fit up compared to what BW came out with in OEM form. An adapter plate would more accurately describe it. But after having a good look at things and understanding what is involved - I would not be a fan full stop for removing any material from an already light looking aluminum caliper bracket. I would be interested to see how stuff like that actually goes through cert.Sorry @flyingbrick nothing personal, just saying what I reckon about things.
  14. johnny.race

    Diffs

    oh fuck - sorry. Its a little square Kyocera one .... i don't have the number on me but can get it if you need. Its a bolt through one. About 1 cm square and probably around 5 or 6mm thick. I go through the expensive little fuckers but ..... they are wayyyyy cheaper to use than HSS and all the blunt hassles that come with its use. I am not a machinist ... no formal training or anything. Self taught. Asked heaps of q's to the right peeps. Passion and perseverance will match formal training IMHO.
  15. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Its not a very good pic but you'll get the idea. Its a home made one. Is supposed to mount 4 index-able tips but only does 3 now, lol! Cuts 90 degree included angle. Is the fucking business.
  16. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Cheers bro, this is what I have always thought. And ta for the pics. An eyeopener for sure. I bet those fuckers don't grow on tree's anymore.
  17. johnny.race

    Diffs

    @flyingbrick Cheers man. Plus I am guessing that center hole has been bored out too? I know its been awhile, haha. But I'd like to know please (sometime) I'm just trying to get my head around part of my chosen craft that I don't have much to do with. The OD of a small bearing ford is roughly 72mm where as the BW comes in at 65mm I measured today. So i am wondering what you might have done/did. a.
  18. johnny.race

    Diffs

    @flyingbrick Did you make your own luck bro? How come there are more holes showing in that caliper bracket when its mounted on your diff than when they were laying on the carpet? Did that center hole have to be made larger also? I have no small bearing ends here to check so had to check the BW against specs stated by aftermarket. It might be doable but its certainly not bolt on. Just saying from what I can glean from what i have and what I read. The bolt holes are near spot on but the bearing on the small Ford is larger than the BW and then there is the brake offset thingy. ( I actually measured and guessimated that a 13mm wide spacer might make it all work but then its only a theoretical guess) Would like you to clarify things for me so I am clear on matters. I still reckon its an urban myth for the most part but need (lol! - Need) to know the details. Its a passion of sorts.
  19. johnny.race

    Diffs

    @yetchh Mate, I reckon that from just looking at the calipers in the pics - yours and mine ... they are different beasties and won't interchange. I'm guessing this anyway.
  20. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I went looking today. I found set of exactly the same setup as that guy on TM is selling as a straight bolt on to a 9 Inch. The rotor specs in at being DBA 109. This equates to this setup coming from a BW78 that came out in an XE or an XF. They could also be from an XD and i measured wrong due to their only being 1mm difference between DBA 108 (for the XD) and this one DBA 109. I found some housing ends that have come 9 Inch Fords and from off pre AU coons. The one on the left is the BW item. The pair in the center are the big (early) bearing housing ends that use the 1/2 studs. The pair on the right is another pair of big bearing ones but that use the 3/8 studs so is a little big later/newer. Fat chance the little BW end is going to fit any of those big bearing Ford ends. Bolt on my arse.
  21. johnny.race

    Diffs

    @flyingbrick Mate, how big is that bearing hole in those caliper brackets (if you could) Cheers.
  22. johnny.race

    Diffs

    No mate, not had anything to do with them actually. But ... I do have one in the pile from memory. I grabbed it after I saw how well your one turned out and read something saying that it was pretty much well the replacement for the 9 Inch. So I got one with the best intention to pull it apart and learn about it ... but never did. So yeah bro.
  23. johnny.race

    Diffs

    Mate, ta for this. Are they the same caliper but fitted with different handbrake system? @yetchh
  24. johnny.race

    Diffs

    I posted these yesterday to their new owner. Hilux KUN Axles, narrowed, resplined, 4 x 108 PCD, 3 inch wheelstuds and flange sized to fit into a given rotor spec. They are destined to spend their life inside a race/club car that does Puke (for sure) and Hampton (probably) They feature some of the best spline work I have turned out in a while. Beautiful fit. Just slide - no slop. I am a rear end specialist. Lol!! Took yonks to get there though. Hope he is happy. Notice the dark (witness) marking on the flange face ... I left max amount of material in the flange for strength. KUN's have a different spigot diameter than the normal 2WD luxer axles from the earlier models. Its stepped (the spigot) also. Only the top bit was machined in order I could key off the diameter to set up the DRO. Fuck yeahhhh!! I sourced these axles straight from a yard down here for him. I made sure the truck these came out of had not been hit in the bum (you'd be surprised what a hit in the bum can do to a diff and especially one from a hard or jolting roll over) and also took note of which axle came from which side. This will allow the owner to fit the appropriate axle into the appropriate side so the axle doesn't receive a surprise when its asked to start turning in the opposite direction to the one its always turned in. You cunts don't dwell on this stuff aye. Fuck I doooo!!
  25. johnny.race

    Diffs

    A quick questionnaire for you Mr Brick. Caliper design - integral handbrake mechanism or is it the 'Banksia' type ie. has a little brake shoe setup happening inside the rotor? Caliper position - front or rear? Rotor design - solid or vented? Are you saying that to your knowledge and based on what you can see ... there has been no modification to your diff and it looks like the entire setup is bolt on up and let rip? I'd love a pic of yours if you could. Especially showing where the backing plate bolts to the diff housing. Cheers.