locost_bryan

Rover had to limit the torque output because the Honda gearbox wasn't strong enough, it was only designed for the 2.7 V6 iirc. One of my wife's uncles was involved with setting up L.E. Perie in NZ during the 1970s, they manufactured LEP lights on the upper floor of the family auto electrical business in Frankton, Hamilton.

How about a Ford Coyote V8 swap, with a T56. here's a bolt-in kit https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=26576

Sounds like the Austin Allegro, jack it up from the rear subframe instead of the jacking point, and the rear screen would pop out.

What type of electronic unit? Possible it might need a minimum "reference" voltage?

@kws Performance Wheels are making new Hotwires, perhaps drop them a line about the best nuts to use? https://www.performancewheels.co.nz/product/hotwire/

Agreed, have managed 170k from a Honda Jazz cvt with no mechanical dramas. It's the VW dual clutch trans that seems to have the worst rep, although a trans guy I spoke to reckoned any auto after 2005 was rubbish. He drove a 60s F100 so might have been biased.

They'll all shit their gearbags inside 16 years, cost more to repair than to buy a later model Jap import, keep the average fleet age down.

Can you use the "reuse of plates" option? https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/licensing-rego/number-plates/ (scroll down to "Re-issuing number plates") ... although that would be re-registering the car.

Personally I think the square shape of the Hunter would suit Mk2 Escort flares.

Ah, is that why you're selling your other Sundowner?

The Colin Chapman mantra that a Lotus should only be strong enough to last until the end of the race, probably shouldn't apply to anything else. Lighten everything until it breaks, then make the replacement a little bit stronger, perhaps not the best design ethos.

Pity they automated the lighthouses, the keepers were always portrayed detailing their ships in bottles while the storms raged outside (before they ruined it all by rushing outside to rescue some damsel in distress ). Back in the 70s I built a lot of kits, before I started playing with full size cars. With my two brothers, we built a '40 Ford Coupe with a rumble seat (from a kit called Flower Power), and a custom Model T truck, as well as a dune buggy and a Chevy Nomad and a 57 Impala, and a '60s dragster station wagon (a Plymouth iirc). Also built a Ford F150, an AMC Gremlin, and a whole lot of sports cars including a Mazda RX7 and Porsche and Ligier Le Mans racers. Built a White Road Boss with a fuel tanker (iirc), and a GMC (Actros?) cabover with a furniture trailer. The only scratchbuild I ever did was when I was at high school, converted a Mk2 Capri into an OSCA race car (sort of a non-spaceframe PDL Mustang 2 clone), with handmade box flares and a rollcage made from pieces of the plastic parts frames, and the V8 from an AMT custom Ford Econoline van. I made a trailer from more offcuts of the parts frames, and spare wheels from other kits. The V6 from the Capri went in the Econoline, that would have made a terrible real-life tow wagon. Must ask my mum what happened to them after I left home and she moved house. Probably got some photos buried in a box in the spare room.

@CarolsHusband I'm jealous of your abilities with models. Haven't made any since my teens, and nothing like you're doing. Great to see your work, keep up the postings, loving it.

You'll have to get @yoeddynz to post on your behalf.

Marina TC gauge cluster on TradeMe, no reserve $50, buy now $150 https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/gauges/listing/3055463673?member_hash=1d3fe7ffa8fab2c642e5b46b74bedf6a9753acb48b6185f72d&tm=email&et=46&mt=E4472408-8060-4EB7-90BB-725D852E5CEF&bof=5Hzhjn59

Race car paint has "orange peel" finish for the same reason, supposed to improve flow by disturbing the layer of air that "clings" to the surface. Some discussion here http://speed.academy/10-myths-of-cylinder-head-porting/ https://forums.mightycarmods.com/forum/technical/tech-talk/798217-porting-clearing-the-elephant-in-the-room-about-rough-vs-smooth-vs-dimples

Cool, forgot that later Maxis would have got the "metric" HIF44. Great find for @kws, he should be able to whip up his own extractors to go with it.

Looks like you've got the holy grail, twin 1.75" carbs on E-series manifold. Are there any numbers on the carbs? E-series has 4 ports, B-series has 2 ports.

Is that a result of better thermal efficiency , or just the extra power allowing a lighter right foot?

No, I think the detailed production records were lost when the Zetland factory closed. Hard to work out from chassis numbers, as each variant was numbered from 1001, so yours is the 572nd Deluxe 1750 manual Coupe. Production was about 200 cars per week, roughly 40% were Deluxe, and 40% Coupes, but I don't know the % for engine and trans. You could probably use a spreadsheet to make a guesstimate. Because your chassis number doesn't start with a "Y", it's probably NZ assembled. If you have the original rego number, you will be able to find out the date first registered, the build date would probably be only a few weeks before that. Honda have some NZMC records, but I don't think it includes any Marina info. Could be worth asking on FMM forum, or on one of the Aussie Leyland facebook groups.

I certainly never paid anything like that for freight from the US for similar size packages.

If you get desperate for a rev counter. US$80 (approx NZ$115) + $157 shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/RVI2435-01A-13H6796-Smiths-Tachometer-Austin-Marina/163646571445?epid=6027593855&hash=item261a1883b5:g:N90AAOSwZKlcLqOJ

No speed info getting to the computer. Read a bit about it here https://www.2carpros.com/questions/wont-shift-out-of-1st-gear-please-help

Both. Lucas changed from inductive (RVI) to single wire (RVC) in the early 70s, and it appears the Marina started with RVI then changed to RVC. The wiring harness should have the bullet connectors for a RVI, or a wire with a spade connector for the RVC. A GENTLEMAN’S GUIDE TO SMITHS ELECTRONIC TACHOMETERS Wiring a Marina Tachometer