Unclejake

That's a new one on me (read: I can't see how you would get any idea of a leaking intake tract from the crankcase, but it could help confirm a PCV issue I guess)... but another diagnostic exercise would be a plug cut - i.e. go for a drive with a tool kit. Replicate the problem and immediately cut the ignition, put her in neutral and coast to the side of the road. Pull out all the sparkplugs and have a look at them for signs of wetness, fouling, overheating, lean running etc.

I didn't know they had gear cam drives. That's very cool. A vacuum leak around the intake manifold or a faulty positive crankcase pressure valve miiight give the symptoms you're seeing, but it'd be a hard thing to test for as it sounds like the engine has to get to a certain load to replicate the fault. I'd get it onto an oldschool diagnostic scope. I use to be able to read them but haven't touched one in decades so I won't pretend I know how now. I also know nothing about injection, but lots of others here do. It seems something at 4k rpm is either preventing the right fuel/air charge going in, being ignited (perhaps the dizzy isn't retarding when it needs to), or hot gas getting out... so an exhaust problem isn't completely impossible, but it does seem an unlikely source of the issue as there shouldn't be any moving parts downstream of your exhaust valves.

I'd be wary of a vacuum leak too, but one you don't see until vacuum is up to a certain range. If it's ignition you'll be able to see the problem on a scope (even under no load) as you'll see the spark trail off at 4k RPM Another culprit could be a cam chain tensioner... and perhaps it's even worth trying the engine under load with the gas cap off (to eliminate a fuel tank vacuum problem)

Fabulous work by you and your people Tim. It looks amazing.

The oil pumps are external on those motors Mof.... but good point. If it was the fuel pump that was removed then..... Ha! P.S: the oil pump works off a scroll driven by a helical segment of the camshaft. The factory fuel pump also runs off the cam, but is activated by a lever running on a cam lobe

As soon as I saw the thread title I thought: 'torn diaphragm', so well done for spotting that K Dot. These engines run like a dog when those diaphragms fail. The next most obvious culprit would be float setting or a bad float needle valve... but it sounds like you've got it under control. Good luck and hopefully she fires right up so you can spend hours trying to adjust the mixture correctly! If she doesn't run well a vacuum leak may give you the symptoms you are seeing, but this one sounds more like a wet fuel delivery problem (rather than an atomized fuel delivery problem) IIRC you should be able to take to top off the DGV carb (after the engine has run for a little bit, albeit roughly) and you should see fuel in the float bowl. If you don't you have either messed up the float setting or have an issue somewhere between the bowl and the fuel tank

Hey Snoopy old buddy. Good to see you here. I'm still sad you lost your hard-drive and all your Grateful Dead songs, but your immense classic vehicle knowledge will be invaluable to people like Lumby (and many others)

The terminology sure does get confusing, but a GT40R is a 'high performance' coil that is designed to work with an external ballast resistor. That means the coil gets all of the available voltage when the starter is being cranked, but once the starter stops being spun the voltage to the coil returns to whatever the external ballast resistor delivers the coil (I thought it was 6v but I've never looked it up so your 9v will probably be correct). I also thought (as SR2 wrote) that the GT40 had an internal ballast resistance, but I have no idea how that works. A high performance coil like a GT40n isn't any advantage to a normal engine, but it won't hurt much either. The worst case is that it'll feed 'too much' high current to the ignition system and wear out ignition system components (points, capacitor, spark plugs) a little faster than a 'standard' coil. I ran a GT40, a GT40T, and a couple of other coils on my Mk1 Cortina race car ... and never noticed a lick of difference TBH.

Absolutely. See above. You will not get far before your points arc, pit, and stop working. P.S: a coil will 'burn out' if the ignition is left on inadvertently when the points are closed for a period of time. Apart from that they were at least moderately reliable as they're no moving parts and they're basically an oil filled canister that has some wire in it. You can do quite a few ignition system diagnostics with a timing light, even if the engine isn't running

And to add to the above wise words; a coil run without ballast (internal or external) will fry your points in short order. I've stuffed points in less than 15 mins by bypassing the ballast resistor (but a quick sand gets you operational again to limp to the nearest points stockists). Others may have gotten months out of points like that though.

Jesus. I had a wagon too. I fitted the 2.3 myself and it had great torque. You scare me sometimes. /Sorry for the Spam Feral Fabrications. Keep an eye on Pre65 Racing Saloon rules. They may allow a '69 body in there now. I dunno. They were talking about it when I retired from racing a long time ago

Polybushes have no place in a race car mate. I tried them and they failed very fast. You want rubber (if you can get it). You'll have better traction and more money at the end of each season. What year is the car?1969?

I'd be talking more to Kelford mate. They absolutely know what they're doing...but no one is infallible. They may have made a small error on an already pushed envelope From the photo (only) I have a theory as to what's happened, but I won't share it here as a single photo isn't anything like as good as actually looking at the valve stem to adjuster contact patch/witness marks. Kelford have a good reputation so I reckon they're your best shot by far.

Apart from not being able to turn or drive in a straight line was it good though? LOL!!!!

Ta. I saw those Spartan lockers when searching online yesterday. It's good to know (from the chassis plate) that my truck should have a ~4.3:1 rear diff with the same crown wheel diameter as found in some Patrols, but I'll need to look inside it to see if it has a LSD clutch pack. There's heaps of rusted out Safaris and Terranos here so used parts should be easy to get locally. My old Patrol had a factory locker (air/vacuum operated). I may get lucky enough to find one of those in a paddock... Here's hoping.