Unclejake

I haven't watched this but it might help? I built a dizzy tester a while ago but I think our friend @KKtrips has it now, and he knows more about distributors than most (mainly because he's as old as a mountain)

grimmermotors.co.nz might be able to help, but that's just from a Google search. I do not know them and can not say if they're any good or not sorry. Distributor rebuilders are a dying breed, but in truth a dizzy isn't very complicated if you take it logically and carefully. Sourcing a new diaphragm might be the hardest part of the job

Oh wow. Now that I look at them online - reconditioned injectors aren't particularly expensive. ~ NZ$500 for a set of six (exchange). I know there will be a few hours labour involved, but it could be that a set of injectors will pay for themselves i fuel savings within a couple of months, and may potentially extend the life of the engine. Thanks for the pro-tip.

Incredibly, the local mechanic has all the gear to rebuild injectors on Island so I'll ask him to get that done, but I suspect the pump will need to go to the mainland. There's no intercooler currently. I have all five of the below symptoms Here are the 5 most common symptoms of faulty diesel fuel injectors. Trouble starting the vehicle or uneven idling. The engine cranks but doesn't start unless you crank it for a long time. ... Misfire. ... Smell of fuel. ... Dirty emissions. ... Increased fuel consumption and poor miles per gallon

Chur bo. Exhaust smoke is black once the vehicle has warmed up a bit, but white on start-up (figures the glowplugs are stuffed so new ones are on their way) I smell burnt oil with a tail wind so figure compression is down a bit/broken rings? The boost gauge pipe runs off the intake manifold I did a little reading last night that suggests too much fuel (i.e. a rich mixture) is extremely bad for turbo diesel as it creates lots of piston crown heat. Diesel is obviously very different to petrol! It's possible that the previous owner turned up the fuel pump to get more power (it's got HEAPS of power). He also fitted a 2.5 inch straight piped exhaust (very badly) which has been replaced in the last few days as it was so shit. This Land Cruiser drives very, very well now that I've messed around with steering and exhaust systems. It's astoundingly comfortable off-road. I absolutely LOVE it and will keep paying the fuel bills if I have to, but I'm worried that the prodigious fuel use is a symptom of something else more sinister... and the last thing I want is to damage the engine

Chaps, I know very little about diesels and even less about turbos. I recently bought a 105 series Land Cruiser with a factory 1HZ n/a six cylinder engine and 410,000kms. A previous owner has fitted a turbo from an 80 series Land Cruiser. The boost gauge shows a maximum of 10psi boost under hard driving, but more like 6-8psi in normal cruising. I assume the original n/a injector pump is still in place Issue: The vehicle uses significant amounts of fuel. ~ $180 per week which is about double what my other trucks use for the same distance travelled Question: Will 'turning down the boost' make a significant fuel saving or do I need to consider a 'turbo' injector pump? There's a rotten 60 series Land Cruiser turbo rusting in a paddock near by. I could probably rob it of its injector pump (if it fits) if that's a worthy task

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I tend to agree that a well placed radiator is a preferable option to forced electric airflow. I should be back on Chatham 20th April. My Dyna has a factory air conditioning radiator mounted under the cab. It lies almost horizontal. I'll try to get a photo so you can see if that position could work for you. I had good results with a Davies Craig electric waterpump on my race car. I also used Redline WaterWeta in the coolant.

I don't want to hi-jack your thread mate, but here it is anyway. I don't know the details apart from that it was a 6 cylinder Patrol/Safari and he went mental

I'm off Island for ten days so only have a couple of pics handy, but here you go.. What you've built is EPIC. It'd be perfect for Chatham and wouldn't need to be legal to be used on Island. I am very impressed MrPog. My little brother has recently put a Chev cab and wellside on a Patrol chassis... but he got a bit carried away and made it 6x6 My Dyna needs new (lifted) springs... but that's hard to arrange from a distant Island. I love the truck as it's incredibly strongly built, has virtually no electronics and is easy to work on.. but the ride is shit. New springs will hopefully help if I can ever take it off the road for long enough to get that done

FYI: the triple cab Wild Rides Dyna (Toyoace) lives on Chatham Island now. It's a complex beast and not without its issues, but it does drive very well P.S. There's a factory double cab, leaf sprung 4x4 on Chatham too. I know because it's mine

I've had pretty much the same issue with my Toyota truck and solved it (temporarily I concede) by fitting air shocks pumped up to 150psi . That raised the vehicle enough that it doesn't hit the bump stops now

@MaxPower, that was an incredibly generous thing for you to have done. Thank you. There's heaps of landcruiser springs around here, but I glanced at a couple and decided they wouldn't fit. I will have a better look in the weekend. perhaps I was mistaken. My 4x4 Dyna front springs are 1,160mm long, 72mm wide, with 2 x 9mm (at centre) parabolic leaves and an eye bolt i/d of 23mm Rear springs are a bit of unknown

No jets here bro... but perhaps the Convair uses A1 anyway? I dunno. I'll have a yarn with them

Not without more fuel line. The sun is out , it's nice and warm.... so the heater is working now, which is good. It's just a bit of a shame it doesn't always work when it's cold