Unclejake

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Unclejake last won the day on March 30 2016

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About Unclejake

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    Clean shirt, new shoes...
  • Birthday 24/03/1937

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  1. Unclejake

    Fj40 chassis rust

    Correct. The FJ45 is on Chatham Island
  2. Unclejake

    Fj40 chassis rust

    Personally, I'd just brush on some POR15 Chassis Coat (available online from Total Body Shop) and be happy. It looks sound enough that I'd drive it. There's an FJ45 sitting in a paddock nearby me too, but it's pretty had it and the owner probably wouldn't sell any parts (the freight would he hideous anyway)
  3. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    ~ $5k including GST, but only to Timaru or Napier You wanna shag my ex? Already!
  4. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chevrolet C3500

    I give up. I've bought a boring Jap 4x4 double cab from Auckland and am suitably ashamed. It was fun pulling big Yankee iron to bits (well sometimes it was fun), but it's going to take too long to get this mighty beast operational and I just can't wait three months to be mobile in my own wagon (having said that the PoS I did buy won't be here until the end of April) Fuck you AllTorque. You were right, but I'll never admit it publicly. LOL
  5. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    Yup. It was QAM I spoke to I'm also in contact with another dude who has a complete running engine (still in a vehicle). I await details and price from him.
  6. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    When it's in the too hard basket. P.S. Shipping a vehicle like the Chev here from Napier is ~$5k, so just by the fact that this one is already on the Island makes it worth more to me. That and that it's fucking cool, and fucked, and cool, but mainly fucked. It's the OS way brother
  7. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chevrolet C3500

    I chatted to an engine reconditioner in Hasting this morning. A line bore (to straighten up the crankshaft tunnel) is about $1.5k plus shipping (so > $2k) so I'm now looking for another block. The re-builder may have a contact for one in Hastings (which would be easy). He'll let me know soon. There's also a short-block rusting away in a paddock here, with the pistons completely corroded to the bores. I better go have a look at it. There's a slight chance the bottom end could be OK. Who knows.... but it's off to a grubby, windy paddock for me. Again! LOL
  8. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chevrolet C3500

    I wouldn't recommend waterblasting a block with the cam and lifters still in, but I didn't have any other way to get it cleaned so I spent 45 minutes pumping bore water onto a ute, then borrowed a petrol blaster and a hose. Gravity feed to the blaster wasn't the best, but at least the block is clean enough to see a bit better, but probably still oily enough not to rust much overnight. The blackened main caps tell a story of no bottom end oil flow and spun bearings. I am not sure which happened first. I reckon I'm going to order a set of gaskets, bottom end bearings, a timing chain and just slap it all back together.
  9. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    $1.80 and no RUCs
  10. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    I don't know, but @$3.20 per liter I am unkeen on a petrol anything
  11. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    Crate motors are about $6-8k USD plus shipping, so they are an option. Just not a a particularly cheap one. It'll cost < $1k NZD to send the engine I have to and from the mainland from Chatham (including getting it from the port to an engine re-builder). I usually like doing things properly, but in this case I may just have to risk doing a slap together job here on the Island as the costs of doing it properly may be more than the truck is worth (and I still need to sort brakes, suspension and ignition system)
  12. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chevrolet C3500

    Three of the five main bearings looked like this. It's the reason the motor was so tight to turn over, and probably caused by an oil line falling off a couple or months before the vehicle got parked. There's no blueing on the crank but the crank journal is slightly scored, as is the crank. The three mains that spun bearings are the three centre ones. These blocks are known to crack at the crank webs of the three central mains, but with a visual inspection I can't see any cracks. I'm pretty sure the bearings are original size (I need to look up the numbers to be certain) I'm off to find a 1,000 litre water container and a petrol water-blaster to try an clean the block up a bit more. The headgasket where the pre-combustion chamber had rotated shows milds signs of soot past the fire ring. I know the previous owner changed the heads some time ago. The engine bolts were either so tight I needed a trolley jack handle over a strong arm to budge them, or were finger tight. There was no in-between. Ha! I need to decide if I'm going to fix this properly (which means sending the disassembled long-block to either Napier or Timaru for a line hone, crank grind, head job and re-bore), or if I'll risk just chucking a fresh set of bearings at it (and not even bother plasti-gauging it) and re-use the existing pistons and rings. I'll ponder than over a beer later in the week
  13. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    They may be cracked, but then again they may not. We will see.
  14. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chevrolet C3500

    If it looks like the engine is recoverable I might just splash out an a caliper rebuild kit too. Oh, and about a kilometre of brake line, some flare nuts, a few balljoints, a Pitman arm with a BJ that activates the drag link after less than half a rotation of the steering wheel, a hell of a lot of POR15 and about 100 other things. LOL Freight will be a killer, but stuff for these full-sized GM pick-ups is easily available and usually remarkably cheap (compared to Lexus bits anyway).
  15. Unclejake

    Unclejake's '95 Chev discusion

    By the look of them they can't drop down as the block would prevent it, but I haven't peeled off the headgaskets yet. Two of the pre-combustion chambers (thank you for identifying them) had rotated on one head. The other head looked OK, but it's all still filthy so needs a proper inspection once clean