Unclejake

Thanks heaps to all of you for the advice and goodwill. We tried magnets, but yeah, but nah. After a bit the owner was prepared to take off the other hub and.good axle (which turned out to be a breeze) and incredibly fortunately for us there was a straight aperture through the diff head, so after scavenging some rusty re-bar from a paddock (and a mallet) we eventually managed to get the broken axle out. It was a mission due to the flailing end having torn the internal diff housing in a few places, seriously constricting the axle's exit path. There were roller bearings everywhere. The wheel bearing probably collapsed, and then the axle shaft broke. Lordy. Runamuck is correct. Everything (apart from gathering food) is harder here. Thanks again all. It's genuinely appreciated

Thanks Max. The diff is what I'd call semi floating axles with no diff head cover. It's a 2001 build that has been on Chatham Island since new (200,000kms ago) so everything on it is hard work! It's a five stud flatbed

70 series Land Cruiser. A rear axle has snapped roughly where the inner axle/wheel bearing was. It's a live, solid diff. We have very limited tools, but can probably get access to a welder if we really tried. Does anyone have any advice for its extraction? Ta

Looking for a ~ 3m3 tipper to use on a steep building site for few weeks in south Wellington (mid April to early May). Has anyone got something that'll carry about 3 cubic metres that they'll rent to me? We don't have to use it on-road, but it'd be be a bonus if we could. 90% of what we do will be off-road, but it's steep and slippery so decent brakes and a good parking brake are essential. We could manage with a loader if no trucks are available Thank you

WRT petrol smell: The fuel tanks have a tendency to rust out at the top. The solution is to remove the tank (easy job) and then probably use the POR15 tank sealer product (which is expensive but genuinely good).

I can help, but only until November, and unfortunately the rent isn't cheap. Landfill Road, Owhiro Bay. The better news is that the workshop is quite well equipped (drill press, lathe. press, compressor, workbench, vice, power, lighting, toilet etc.) If you want to know more PM me your number and I'll give you a call

There's also some other products similar to the Wurth canisters (which are indeed awesome). Total Bodyshop in the Hutt stock one that I've used, but I can't remember its name. You'll need a special gun for either though... which I can lend you if you need, but they're only $46 new

It'll take me a while to get photos as they're on a hard drive that's not where I am, but yours (in the last few photos) looks a bit worse TBH... but not all that much worse. Do get your head up inside the rear wheel arches and check the rear screen drains for rust/blockages. It's a hard one to spot sometimes. The only other tip I could give you is to fit new seals to the windscreen wiper stalks (in 5 years when it's going back together.... LOL!). They're cheap as anything but do fail.... and as you know getting the heater and dash out is a HUGE mission

Holy moley man. That is seriously cool... and for what it is it looks remarkably rust free. The front jacking points are usually toast. So much win! And is that a Lexus LS I spy?

Approved Also: Aidan may have a 3.9:1 diff head for it as it's most likely got a 4.1:1 in there now

That was me waving at you on Owhiro Parade BTW. XX

Will also most likely attend for the first 15 mins (unfortunately I have another meeting @ 7.30pm)

Sorry for such a tardy response. I have hardly been on OS in November: WRT timber dropsaw: I have a 305mm De-Walt on an EPIC stand that I am not using again until late January You're welcome to it Beav. It's at my south coast lock-up, but the stand is big so perhaps it's best I drop it to you one week night (on my ute). Holla at me WRT metal cut-off saw: Can assist with a 400mm unit should you still need one Kicker. Collection from Owhiro Bay on a week night (next to Pinkies), or perhaps if you're close to Beaver I can kill two birds etc. with a delivery In all cases - no payment or koha expected. You're both fine chaps and it's just the OS way... but please PM me and be prepared to wait a couple of days for reply ... or text if you have my number for a quicker response. Sorry, just lunacy busy at the moment

I haven't read the thread, but the common way when I was racing was to shim the diff to make it super tight. Google should help

It looks like an early Ford box to me too, so Bryan will be spot on. It's unlikely to need a rebuild if the lever is just refusing to move. Remove the top hat and you'll see the selector shafts. The 'magic wand' gearlever has a tapered ball on the end of it and pivots inside a bushing part way up the tophat. It's probably just got itself jammed between two of the selector shafts. If you're brave you could just hit the base of the shaft with a hammer, but the ball tips are fairly brittle so it's probably best to remove the four bolts and have a proper look