187inc

Love your perseverance man! A lot of love and learnings going on. One tip for the spot putty (pinholes/chips/whatever) is to buy a pack of single sided razor blades, and holding perpendicular to the panel, scrape the excess putty away (once its hard) The less you have to sand the flatter it will be come clear-coat time.

Thanks that's exactly the clarification I was looking for. Definitely doesn't sound worthwhile.

Ball joint spacers.. looking at replacing the rear leaves in the Hilux with some slightly higher heavy duty ones (40 or 50mm max-more for load capability than lift). If the front end is drastically lower once this is done I was thinking about winding the torsion bars up to get the front end closer to the rear height. I've read ball joint spacers are popular to correct the angles which winding the T-bars up will create, and prevent the ride from becoming harsh. Are they legal? They would only be maybe 25mm. Edit: 2003 4WD Hilux if that matters.

Seen a couple of prices around 150 for clean/test/orings etc, new seem to be nearly 100 each.. will have another search around but not all too familiar with what I'm looking for and there's a myriad of options out there.

Hey guys, this is very much below the scope of this thread, but thought it would be a good place to ask.. I'm thinking about getting the injectors in my daily cleaned & tested, there's nothing wrong with the way it runs but it's getting on now and has likely never been done. Is there anything else I should look at doing at the same time? (Done plugs leads etc) Just want to keep the old girl happy. '91 Laser Tx3, 1.8 dohc.

Just did a trip Akl -> Hawkes Bay & back in our '05 v6 Highlander, managed to get down to 10.1 L/10km which I was pretty happy about, 4wd/AT Tyres, 2x people 2x mountainbikes & tonnes of gear. Was being mindful of the right foot though, minimal overtaking etc. Went up once we were there, gravel road adventures etc

Just binge-read through pretty much your whole build, very jealous of your skills! looks like its going to be awesome once its done. Keep it up!

Hey guys, I apologise if this has been asked/answered a million times.. Asking on behalf of a friend who has just bought a car. Its certed for lowering and larger than factory wheels, the wheels are munted and he's thinking about buying some of the factory wheels as they are cheap and plentiful. Will this be an issue cone Wof time? Can you prove that they are factory diameter/width/offset and avoid having to re-plate? Thanks in advance.

That sucks for the driver, not only what happened but the way the company at fault treated him also, but.. Why would he not have personal income protection? I thought that was the first thing you get when self employed to avoid having to "borrow off friends for mortgage payments"?

Get em clean as you can and 2k epoxy them. usually grey/some you can tint darker if you're really fussy.

Maybe some crud stuck in one of the lines? Wouldn't be surprising for a ride that old that's been sitting around.

I hope your mate told them where to drive a shaft..

Do they have some kind of texture you are trying to preserve? If not, just sand them. If they do- just sand them. Can get creative whilst painting (thicker paint/lower pressure/great distance) to get a textured effect.

Man I'd sketch out about having the float bowls sitting right above the exhaust manifold aye.. Make sure your gaskets don't leak! Making it out of alloy might prevent some heat soak from the exhaust runners too? I used the fuel pump from the R1 the carbs came off, is self regulating and quiet (mounted with rubber isolaters).

Got 40mm R1 mikunis on my Pinto, runs pretty well, might go down a jet size/play with mixtures or find someone who knows what they're doing. RE: vacuum, I bought one of danst engineerings' "balance bars" and tapped into each intake runner from the manifold. So all 4 go into the balance bar, the out of each end of that I have one fitting going to vac advance and one to brake booster. Will try and find a pic.