spiderwebfx

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About spiderwebfx

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  • Birthday 30/09/1990

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  1. spiderwebfx

    For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

    Most ones supplied by the retailers selling aftermarket wheels are plastic. Some are alloy but very few. Why not try ringing a local wheel shop with the ID of the wheels, ID of the spacers, and the OD's of the spigots, and see if you can just buy them. They're normally only $7-$8 each anyway. If you don't feel like calling, PM me your measurements and I can ring and ask tomorrow for you
  2. Tyres should be fitted from the front side of that rim. It's typical of a cheaper wheel to have the well so far from the face, but obviously it's deeper at that end to cater for it. (Not saying it is a cheap wheel, but the likes of Advanti do this on almost all their rims. JWL used to mean something, (it still does in most cases) but then Chinese copies happened, and now they seem to be on almost every wheel anyway. In terms of quality, I wouldn't say that rim is chinese. If you like at the back in the centre, it's formed around the stud holes. All chinese stuff I've seen has a round mounting face as it's cheaper and easier to do. I'd be looking at what @kyteler said and it's possibly from Performance Wheels Australia
  3. spiderwebfx

    High-voltage Tacho and Link

    Done, a few hours of messing around, but it now works. I have an Auto Meter tacho internals on the back of my S12 cluster. I'll get the tuner to fine tune it tomorrow while it's getting it's tune done. Cheers for the help.
  4. spiderwebfx

    High-voltage Tacho and Link

    Yeah, I thought about using a S14 one or something, but I can't find anything locally I can grab today
  5. spiderwebfx

    High-voltage Tacho and Link

    Yep, very similar to that. I may of just found an Auto Meter Auto Gage series one. So will hopefully go pick up shortly.
  6. spiderwebfx

    High-voltage Tacho and Link

    I have thought about doing that. Only problem is I haven't been able to find an rpm gauge i can try it with
  7. spiderwebfx

    High-voltage Tacho and Link

    Unfortunately the above method didn't work. Any other suggestions?
  8. spiderwebfx

    High-voltage Tacho and Link

    Howdy OS'ers Hoping some of you here may be able to help me with something. I've put a Link ECU into the S12, and am trying to figure out how to get the tacho to work. S12 Silvia, originally CA20E, now has S14 SR20DET and Link Monsoon ecu. I was having a read through this thread; But tbh, I don't really understand it. So the Link has a 12v output. I'm not exactly sure on the S12 tacho input signal type, but attached is a photo of the circuit board (R9 is the first resistor on the tacho signal wire). However, I would prefer to do it with the relay option as I don't want to risk damaging the board. I used to have it driven off the S14 coils by using four diodes (1N4004) on each signal wire (from the ignitor chip) into one, then straight into the tacho. This worked, but my tuner has said he'd prefer not to have anything that can interfere with signal on the coilpacks, and I've also converted to S15 coilpacks if that matters. If it's relevant, the larger of the resistors with writing is 82ohm 5% 2w (R1) and the smaller (R2) is 43ohm J 1w. (Not sure what J means)
  9. spiderwebfx

    Tire Lettering 'Pens' & painting Q's

    Pretty much all these pens are. Go to Bunnings and buy paint pens in whatever colors you want. Although $2.50 for 2 pens is cheap.
  10. spiderwebfx

    Removing paint from plastic mud flaps

    @Mr Vapour, that sounds like the sort of thing I'm after. I'll flick you a PM now.
  11. spiderwebfx

    Removing paint from plastic mud flaps

    Thanks @tortron I'll give the oven cleaner a go first, if no dice, I'll go with brake fluid.
  12. spiderwebfx

    Removing paint from plastic mud flaps

    Na, nothing like that. The existing paint is pretty rough / flaky, I've got most of the flaking paint off but I'm hesitant to paint over whats left in case it peels later on.
  13. spiderwebfx

    Removing paint from plastic mud flaps

    I got a plastic mud flap kit in from Japan for my S12. They have had a real shoddy paint job on them. Whats the best way to remove the paint and start again? Can I use paint stripper, etch prime, then paint, or will the stripper damage the plastic? They're OEM ones from the 80's. Will a bead blaster work, or is that two aggressive? I'll post a photo up soon if that will help. Cheers, Chris Edit// just read the technical data for CRC strip-off and it says not recommended for plastics...
  14. spiderwebfx

    Tyre tread pattern vs width

    4.5" to 5" is standard for 165 wide tyres. Can put 185's on without a problem though. Answers to questions; 1. Yes - the wider tyres will drive much nicer than the 165's. + you have way more options available to you. 2. Assymetric tyres are pretty much the way of the future with tyres anyway. Some brands are coming up with split compounds, and they can fine tune parts of the tyre for different thing. (Such as outer shoulder firmer/more solid for cornering, but inside half the tyre more for everyday comfort sort of thing) 3. Na, you can get a rough idea on it's water dispersion capabilities but thats it. I'd recommend going to the 185/70R13. As far as options go, #1 recommendation would be a Michelin Energy XM2, but they're priced pretty high for a 13" tyre (retail $150+gst). Well worth it though. Otherwise, Yokohama AE01, or Toyo NanoEnergy3. Also, speedo difference will be less than 1%