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About spiderwebfx

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  • Birthday 30/09/1990

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  1. Is it one of those if they are there, they have to work things? Like a spare wheel, if it's there, it has to be bolted down.
  2. No problem, it's much easier to do from each individual items side and far more reliable as well. This is what we do to all of our mobile phones, laptop and wireless printer in our workshop. All up, we're at about 15 different items on WiFi. We do have a non-provider issued modem (Draytek) though as we run a VPN also, so this does allow us to have more devices connected whilst still maintain performance.
  3. Are you setting up static IP's from the router or on the individual devices? If you do it on each individual device, you would be limited to over 200, not 8. It would also prevent router from resetting those ip's if it gets reset.
  4. Mine was made from 6mm steel plate with 18mm(possibly 20mm) steel rod used for the spacers. (Welded together) Past cert without issue.
  5. Most ones supplied by the retailers selling aftermarket wheels are plastic. Some are alloy but very few. Why not try ringing a local wheel shop with the ID of the wheels, ID of the spacers, and the OD's of the spigots, and see if you can just buy them. They're normally only $7-$8 each anyway. If you don't feel like calling, PM me your measurements and I can ring and ask tomorrow for you
  6. Tyres should be fitted from the front side of that rim. It's typical of a cheaper wheel to have the well so far from the face, but obviously it's deeper at that end to cater for it. (Not saying it is a cheap wheel, but the likes of Advanti do this on almost all their rims. JWL used to mean something, (it still does in most cases) but then Chinese copies happened, and now they seem to be on almost every wheel anyway. In terms of quality, I wouldn't say that rim is chinese. If you like at the back in the centre, it's formed around the stud holes. All chinese stuff I've seen has a round mounting face as it's cheaper and easier to do. I'd be looking at what @kyteler said and it's possibly from Performance Wheels Australia
  7. Done, a few hours of messing around, but it now works. I have an Auto Meter tacho internals on the back of my S12 cluster. I'll get the tuner to fine tune it tomorrow while it's getting it's tune done. Cheers for the help.
  8. Yeah, I thought about using a S14 one or something, but I can't find anything locally I can grab today
  9. Yep, very similar to that. I may of just found an Auto Meter Auto Gage series one. So will hopefully go pick up shortly.
  10. I have thought about doing that. Only problem is I haven't been able to find an rpm gauge i can try it with
  11. Unfortunately the above method didn't work. Any other suggestions?
  12. Howdy OS'ers Hoping some of you here may be able to help me with something. I've put a Link ECU into the S12, and am trying to figure out how to get the tacho to work. S12 Silvia, originally CA20E, now has S14 SR20DET and Link Monsoon ecu. I was having a read through this thread; But tbh, I don't really understand it. So the Link has a 12v output. I'm not exactly sure on the S12 tacho input signal type, but attached is a photo of the circuit board (R9 is the first resistor on the tacho signal wire). However, I would prefer to do it with the relay option as I don't want to risk damaging the board. I used to have it driven off the S14 coils by using four diodes (1N4004) on each signal wire (from the ignitor chip) into one, then straight into the tacho. This worked, but my tuner has said he'd prefer not to have anything that can interfere with signal on the coilpacks, and I've also converted to S15 coilpacks if that matters. If it's relevant, the larger of the resistors with writing is 82ohm 5% 2w (R1) and the smaller (R2) is 43ohm J 1w. (Not sure what J means)
  13. Pretty much all these pens are. Go to Bunnings and buy paint pens in whatever colors you want. Although $2.50 for 2 pens is cheap.
  14. @Mr Vapour, that sounds like the sort of thing I'm after. I'll flick you a PM now.
  15. Thanks @tortron I'll give the oven cleaner a go first, if no dice, I'll go with brake fluid.