jakesae101

If you want to upgrade to clubby brakes let me know, bigger 2 pots 330x32 mm slotted bendix rotors new rotors have done a couple of thousand ks. With safebrake braided lines. i also have a set of dba gold cross drilled rotors for the standard brakes that were skimmed and didnt see much use before upgrading. unsure whats happening with my rears yet possibly have something that will happen. You can fit the vented rear rotors from the redline i think it is easy enough they are virtually the same thickness just vented. The clubby ones use the same caliper just a different carrier and a 315x18mm vented rotor the clubby stuff is a good step.

I have a bit of experience with my one to know what helps ive just gone to a 30 profile also 245/30/20 all round tho. Mine is N/A ls1 with a lot of stuff done but making 305kw at the rears Just about ready for cert , just waiting on the last bits to fit the vf 4 pot brembos ive been rocking clubsport bigger brakes for a while but its time for some real ones!

Do the diff bushing insert if you havent its like 50$ and makes a big difference to help traction

They are a press fit into the rotor as far as im aware , if they weren't as tight as id like i was just going to use some retaining compound! The re wording definitely clears that up ill get cracking!

@cletus I have a brake query, I want to convert my VZ commodore to running VE brembos In aussie they machine the centre of the rotor out a couple of mm to fit the vz hubs and run a 2mm spacer that fits in the stud holes (m12 vz m14 ve) as I understand it now we can't modify rotors anymore. I know a few of these kits have been certed here but unsure what to do now. Leon at LVVTA has confirmed that the brackets themselves comply in terms of material and thickness. but im unsure what to do about the rotor situation.

Ive seen people make an F shaped tool or use a pipe wrench around the rim of a crank pulley to turn engines , obviously if you dont care much for the pulley / willing to risk it for the biscuit damage wise.

So im adding in a electric vac pump for some extra brake vac and using all gm stuff using a VE commodore up28 pump and a cruize switch / T that fits on the booster so i can still keep the engine vac, it will just kick the pump on at low vac as I have been finding at times this is a bit average with the cam im running. @cletus whats the go with the brake booster hose from the pump to the valve switch with regards to markings, as I know it has to be specific stuff as im fitting on the other side of the engine bay. will this comply or is there a brand you recommend. https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/intake-exhaust/car-vacuum-tubes/goss-powerbrake-vacuum-hose-12mm-bv120l150m/p/A1336107?srsltid=AfmBOorkQdxd87acklBvNoMhLAGIPUn3iLAq8iDkGMswllFl-Qa08vHj

Swann insure my commie and have never said anything on the laundry list of mods

3m VHB tape will hold just about anything to anything, its foam based just make sure the surface is clean. Have used it to stick plates on before and never had an issue.

I find the 3m silicone ones really good i just trim the ends that poke out a bit to fit in my helmet but they are super durable and I find them easier to use than the foam ones and they dont get super grot like the foam ones.

You wearing earplugs when riding? I do now when riding now and my current bike isnt super loud but cuts out lots of wind noise and find that i can still listen to whatever comfortably with my intercom on.

If you want to borrow a colour tune to help with the tuning let me know as i have one although i did most of my tuning by road tune on the mini but it ended up rather close to when i put the colour tune in. Playing with different dashpot oils 30w in it currently, i have the genuine su oil if you want to try some of that

Realistically I need a larger stall than what I have I regret not going to a 25-2800 stall but $$$ after everything was tight but it made a night and day difference to my car with the cam combo ect as I had a number if drivability issues ect. My tuner said my car for some reasons idle tune ect was one of the hardest hes had despite having done the same combo ect

Not the guy in Auckland named Louni? That offers some rather cheap 4l60 rebuilds a mate of mine who did my trans had a horror story or two of peoples trans that had a very short life due to rebuilds not really being rebuilds and some very suspect reassembly. He was basically rebuilding them for what a reputable full rebuild kit costs so you have to wonder what you get for the $$.

Fantastic result! Its about a 750 to get your factory one restalled they can only get them to around 21-2200.