jakesae101

If you want to upgrade to clubby brakes let me know, bigger 2 pots 330x32 mm slotted bendix rotors new rotors have done a couple of thousand ks. With safebrake braided lines. i also have a set of dba gold cross drilled rotors for the standard brakes that were skimmed and didnt see much use before upgrading. unsure whats happening with my rears yet possibly have something that will happen. You can fit the vented rear rotors from the redline i think it is easy enough they are virtually the same thickness just vented. The clubby ones use the same caliper just a different carrier and a 315x18mm vented rotor the clubby stuff is a good step.

I have a bit of experience with my one to know what helps ive just gone to a 30 profile also 245/30/20 all round tho. Mine is N/A ls1 with a lot of stuff done but making 305kw at the rears Just about ready for cert , just waiting on the last bits to fit the vf 4 pot brembos ive been rocking clubsport bigger brakes for a while but its time for some real ones!

Do the diff bushing insert if you havent its like 50$ and makes a big difference to help traction

They are a press fit into the rotor as far as im aware , if they weren't as tight as id like i was just going to use some retaining compound! The re wording definitely clears that up ill get cracking!

@cletus I have a brake query, I want to convert my VZ commodore to running VE brembos In aussie they machine the centre of the rotor out a couple of mm to fit the vz hubs and run a 2mm spacer that fits in the stud holes (m12 vz m14 ve) as I understand it now we can't modify rotors anymore. I know a few of these kits have been certed here but unsure what to do now. Leon at LVVTA has confirmed that the brackets themselves comply in terms of material and thickness. but im unsure what to do about the rotor situation.

Ive seen people make an F shaped tool or use a pipe wrench around the rim of a crank pulley to turn engines , obviously if you dont care much for the pulley / willing to risk it for the biscuit damage wise.

So im adding in a electric vac pump for some extra brake vac and using all gm stuff using a VE commodore up28 pump and a cruize switch / T that fits on the booster so i can still keep the engine vac, it will just kick the pump on at low vac as I have been finding at times this is a bit average with the cam im running. @cletus whats the go with the brake booster hose from the pump to the valve switch with regards to markings, as I know it has to be specific stuff as im fitting on the other side of the engine bay. will this comply or is there a brand you recommend. https://www.repco.co.nz/parts-service/intake-exhaust/car-vacuum-tubes/goss-powerbrake-vacuum-hose-12mm-bv120l150m/p/A1336107?srsltid=AfmBOorkQdxd87acklBvNoMhLAGIPUn3iLAq8iDkGMswllFl-Qa08vHj

Swann insure my commie and have never said anything on the laundry list of mods

3m VHB tape will hold just about anything to anything, its foam based just make sure the surface is clean. Have used it to stick plates on before and never had an issue.

I find the 3m silicone ones really good i just trim the ends that poke out a bit to fit in my helmet but they are super durable and I find them easier to use than the foam ones and they dont get super grot like the foam ones.

You wearing earplugs when riding? I do now when riding now and my current bike isnt super loud but cuts out lots of wind noise and find that i can still listen to whatever comfortably with my intercom on.

If you want to borrow a colour tune to help with the tuning let me know as i have one although i did most of my tuning by road tune on the mini but it ended up rather close to when i put the colour tune in. Playing with different dashpot oils 30w in it currently, i have the genuine su oil if you want to try some of that

Realistically I need a larger stall than what I have I regret not going to a 25-2800 stall but $$$ after everything was tight but it made a night and day difference to my car with the cam combo ect as I had a number if drivability issues ect. My tuner said my car for some reasons idle tune ect was one of the hardest hes had despite having done the same combo ect

Not the guy in Auckland named Louni? That offers some rather cheap 4l60 rebuilds a mate of mine who did my trans had a horror story or two of peoples trans that had a very short life due to rebuilds not really being rebuilds and some very suspect reassembly. He was basically rebuilding them for what a reputable full rebuild kit costs so you have to wonder what you get for the $$.

Fantastic result! Its about a 750 to get your factory one restalled they can only get them to around 21-2200.

They were on 9 thats half way i think? in my car but that was on fe2 suspension and whiteline bars my bcs are on 6 from full soft and its pretty much where i want it but my trans is a bit more vicious than stock so the shifts cold are pretty firm shall we say so you get some pretty rad wheel hop.

Hopefully those new shocks make a good difference!

Have had a good run with sealwell cubes tbh and they dont seem to jizz anything up. Has managed to keep my mini retaining its coolant after a few small issues

The bottom one can also be found on the late vz dbw ls1 cars , talk to Chris at Prestige tuning and Motorsport as he has removed a bunch for mafless tuning.

If you want some adjustable rear shocks to play with my tein ones are coming out soon for me to put in a set of bc gold adjustables all round.

If you haven’t watched already corn fed boost on YouTube has some fantastic turbo holden 6 content!

im running a DW65A making over 300RWKW the stock one was good for 250 N/A no problems but the DW65A is a drop in to the stock commodore carrier.

Have you considered fixing the small stuff and taking it to a more friendly place for old cars, You are in the hutt? All fleet services were doing my mini for the old owner and it has the same underseal.

Well the test drive showed a bunch of issues The cooling system The heater wasn't getting hot and was getting some high temps showing on the gauge as it turned out I had a huge airlock in it from draining everything out which lead to the discovery of the heater tap on the new motor was leaking. They are shit and all the repos also seem to leak so I just fitted the one off the old motor that is on all the time. The gauge was still showing hot now I had assumed the senders would be the same and I had put my thermocouple on the rad ect and it wasnt super hot so swapped the senders and low and behold its running the same as the old motor so thats fixed! The Carb Now it was running a bit average the first test drive and the second one was terrible, pulling the choke out seemed to smooth it out so I got the haynes manual out and got it running to roughly where the lift test works. I found a couple of issues also, the dashpot was low on oil and the float bowl lid had no gasket so it was leaking fuel onto the exhaust! so I swapped my old carbs lid on as I knew the float would be set correctly and took it for another road test and gave it a few 1,2,3 rips adjusting it a flat at a time till it felt ok I was still getting a bit of rough running so took it for a good hoon on the motorway and the back roads and it cleared up, im assuming that because it had been so rich that the plugs were fouled and now its running great. pulled a plug and looks good to me ! Some more adventures to come !

Well Saturday came and I had a mostly free day from work and kids, my mate came over in the arvo to give me a hand and after about 7 hours of faffing about we had it in and running. Few small hiccups along the way mainly getting the suspension apart to replace bushings ect proved hard and the big hammer came out, and the exhaust just clears the larger remote box just, have to get everything in the right sequence and man its way way more solid even without the extra mount I put in compared to the wand setup. Once we had it all in i found that the timing was 180 out and we ended up bumping it with a plug out to find the compression stroke and got it running by ear, we found after that the later 2 piece rad brackets and shroud bolts up closer as it appears the front pulley is different but it will in fact rub and sound a bit like knocking after we fixed that by removing a bolt all was well. By this point I was exhausted and dehydrated and just couldn't work out ignition timing but we got coolant in it bled it up and did an oil change, id also routed the choke cable wrong so in the clear light of the next few days I made a list and finished it all and tonight got the timing spot on I was only about 4 deg out. Tonight I finished that list by re doing the timing and one last check for leaks and it runs pretty dam good , minimal choke needed to start up and idles ect nicely no smoke and great oil pressure. Time hopefully for a test drive tomorrow we ran the gearbox through all the gears with it up in the air so cant wait to feel the power increase of the extra 150cc has afforded me, im pretty happy that in under a month from breaking it ive managed to locate another engine and do the swap and have it ready to roll again as my main concern was id just leave it as is and not find time to get back to it.