shizzl

Sweet, thanks @RXFORD

How critical is tyre load rating at cert time? my ute on carjam has a gvm of 1999kg but will never see that weight in its lifetime, definitely not going forward anyway. the only tyre I can find that is going to work has a load rating of 82v. Which I’ve deciphered at 487kg most other tyres in the same size are not 74-78v a stupid balloon tyre or LT won’t work whatsoever

If I was rich I would for sure chuck on a set of SSR meshies. Don’t reeeeally want to sell the MS-01s to fund that

Thinking of a wheel change to 15s if I can find some. open to suggestions, just nothing modern.

I’m going to just leave this here as @RUNAMUCK would say, pissing cheese

Caught up with the boys at Sprint RE today. engine goes together tomorrow. It’s looking so good too. o ring groove is perfect and still uses a stock Mazda water seal. ports cleaned up and matched, rear plate was replaced, housings port matched and tidied up, water jackets filled. ida has been stripped, cleaned and rebuilt, fuel bowl modded too. Jason, Chris and Ryan are bloody good buggers too. rear calipers were sent away to Stirling to be rebuilt, and I dropped off the new rotors. all new rod ends and pitman up front, new ball joints . bump stops added and a couple of sweet alloy A Arm pivot covers fitted. can’t wait to get this on the road now. oh and check out this pic of the OG ute that popped up on FB. Never seen this one before

Right o lads. I’ve been chatting with a couple of guys about this topic and keen to know the answer to report back. is it legal here to “flip ball joints” .. relocate the ball joint above the lower arm using a spacer on top of the arm and a spacer to fill the void the ball joint took up. Obviously using higher grade bolts. im sure I’ve seen this posted somewhere but search results net zero. thanks in advance

A TIKing time bomb?

Wasn’t so much the pinning, but the fact that the water jacket in the housing wasn’t filled/blocked off. So the sealing surface was super narrow and probably never sealed at all from the start. so Jason will rectify that and machine in a new water seal groove so the inner seal isn’t cut like these traditional time bombs. what he explained was awesome and should be standard practice.

I’d have more hope dumping into the Waikato river for a week

One of Mad Mikes mates. bit average way of sealing around the J port. Atleast it’s going to become a great little J once Jason fixes it up

Found the no run issue. coolant seal failure , caused by minimal to none existent sealing around the J port/devcon fill area. everything is coated in a grimey rust. one of the oil control rings were stuck so most likely pumping oil into the housing too. Jason and I came up with a game plan. acid dip the lot, clean everything out and inspect side seal clearances, apex groove clearances, fill the water jacket within the housing, machine in a o ring groove into the housing. paint the plates and housings, reassemble and looking frickin sick. all bearings, plate surfaces, e shaft and housings are in great condition apart from the rusty sludge. im glad it never ran, it probably saved it. will likely ditch the new apex seals for Mazda seals if the groove tolerance is too high. it’s in safe hands now though. Won’t be cheap, but will be much better

With moving out of the shop and starting the new job, I’ve made the tough decision to send the ute away So long…. to Sprint RE.. gave them quite the list of things I’d like to have done, along with a few of Jason’s own ideas. that will give me a much shorter list of things to do before cert, like washer bottle hose, wiper wiring, new brake discs, wheel alignment, 15s and bumper mount brackets to the chassis.

If you take a typical jap ute, and remove the body to use to put a pre 50s body on it, do you keep the plates and tags to that chassis, or is the reg process stay with the body? seeing as most pre 50s bodies are usually deregd.