shizzl

Well she got washed and dropped off to the certifier. this paint just blings off in the sun, love it I know there will be a couple of things that I only noticed when I dropped it off. Couple of grommets around the front brake lines and 3 P clips instead of the factory metal fold over tabs. and I wasn’t aware that you need receipts for braided fuel line. of course I never kept that, so I just purchased 4m of -6an ptfe that I’ll swap out just to not be a Kent. for a hardcore hotrod guy he actually thinks it’s awesome. But he did also rate the hunter. hoping the list doesn’t get too big. Did supply a flash drive of the build photos for the seat mounts, handbrake set up and anything else that was cunty to remove or covered up.

So I run a S4 alternator in the ute, wired it up as many others had mentioned, but gave been plagued with a parasitic draw since day one. .588 draw I have a brand new optima battery in it and took time to go through a draw test. it showed nothing until I decided to pull the wire out of the back of the alternator. I’ve been told to connect the sense wire to the B+ post. I believe that this method makes the alternator constantly excited which draws power. is this theory correct? with the wire pulled it dropped the draw right down to like .078 from memory. it still charges at 14.2v like that. but I need to know the correct method to complete this so I don’t kill it. am I correct in thinking that the “R” terminal (top of the T plug” should be wired to accessory power (key on). I did have a battery light wired into the light terminal but sprint have binned that and run it through the haltech dash somehow.

That pretty paint makes me nervous just looking at the photos . this is going to be killer. are you planning on having it done for ReUnion?

Managed to borrow a RX3 upper console for mocking up . the upper section fits perfect however it’s too wide to use without the lower section. and because I can’t design and print anything to save myself, I decided to design a console that replicates the RX3 unit. Made it out of balsa at the moment but will be filled, sanded and internally braced before being covered. quite like how it’s turned out so far. thinking of moving the can pad down into the upper panel and putting in a double din CarPlay unit.

Forgot to add pics of the fuel hatch set up. so inside I plan to 3d print an insert that sits on top of the tank, this will hold a few 50ml shots of oil for premix. Should be able to put atleast 2 full tank fills worth in there. Maybe more. ideally I don’t want to have the oil and measuring cup in behind the seats.

Pre cert wof complete. bit annoyed tbh as the non cert things it failed on should have been done at Sprint after they replaced the steering components and brakes. The master cylinder bolt is my main concern as it’s not the same bolt that I had in there. It now has one that’s not long enough and no nyloc/locking device. i do have to dig out the id plate, can’t remember where i put it in the shed. It’s all easy small things to tick off though which is good.

I need to pick up my battery tomorrow so I can finish the front panel. then it’s booked for a pre cert wof on Wednesday. Only thing I can see it being pulled up on other than the cert stuff, is the brake performance. if it is actually terrible, I’ll just go back to a stock booster set up.

Finished off the rear floor panel. Finally. i decided to just panel it like the rest of the inner panels rather than a timber floor. added in a boat hatch to access the fuel cell. I can also sit the premix and measuring cup in there which is a bonus. who knows, i may end up putting a raised flat floor in it one day if I ever decide to use it as a ute/wheelbarrow.

Awesome, cheers Matt thought is was 40mm compression too. its currently 75mm, so that will change a little. Front is 55mm, bumpstop is just over halfway outward.

I’m sure I’ve read this somewhere in the CCM, but haven’t been able to find it again (tonight anyway). what is the minimum suspension travel required from normal position? is it 40mm from the bump stop to chassis? I know the rule for droop. does this also apply to the front bump stop clearance? im sure I have had this info in a screenshot somewhere.

Looks so lush and comfy. is the market not horrendous over there like it is here for those?

Super sexy finish mate

Goddam that’s a nice motor

You can feel it build pressure and just goes very hard. Pretty sure the pedal ratio is better on paper too. once you reach that point you need to really get into it

I ran the Hunter in boosted so was used to that, same with my stock cars. this is exceptionally hard. It’ll stop if you bend the firewall haha i may give Stirling a call as they were the ones who rebuilt it when it had a factory seal failure and Stealth Ride didn’t want to know about it. could be something to do with that once bled up