shizzl

Photoless updates are pointless *sigh* but she’s been at SprintRE for the last 8 weeks. the new engine looks epic, and is ready to fire up. stopped by today to catch up with them. exhaust is complete and looks so damn good. looking forward to hearing it on Friday . had many curveballs get thrown around so far, mainly with the faulty Wilwood master and the fact that StealthRide don’t seem to acknowledge emails or follow up with warranty stuff. Wankers

Just build your own deck to suit your needs. ones like m2 overland etc are awesome but so expensive. if you find correct sized deck that doesn’t work, just relocate the mudguards and relocate the mounting points , it’s actually not hard. often it’s better to just throw an extra couple of grand to a more suitable already set up unit. i would stay 10 fathoms clear of that towbar set up off the deck.

Sweet, thanks @RXFORD

How critical is tyre load rating at cert time? my ute on carjam has a gvm of 1999kg but will never see that weight in its lifetime, definitely not going forward anyway. the only tyre I can find that is going to work has a load rating of 82v. Which I’ve deciphered at 487kg most other tyres in the same size are not 74-78v a stupid balloon tyre or LT won’t work whatsoever

If I was rich I would for sure chuck on a set of SSR meshies. Don’t reeeeally want to sell the MS-01s to fund that

Thinking of a wheel change to 15s if I can find some. open to suggestions, just nothing modern.

I’m going to just leave this here as @RUNAMUCK would say, pissing cheese

Caught up with the boys at Sprint RE today. engine goes together tomorrow. It’s looking so good too. o ring groove is perfect and still uses a stock Mazda water seal. ports cleaned up and matched, rear plate was replaced, housings port matched and tidied up, water jackets filled. ida has been stripped, cleaned and rebuilt, fuel bowl modded too. Jason, Chris and Ryan are bloody good buggers too. rear calipers were sent away to Stirling to be rebuilt, and I dropped off the new rotors. all new rod ends and pitman up front, new ball joints . bump stops added and a couple of sweet alloy A Arm pivot covers fitted. can’t wait to get this on the road now. oh and check out this pic of the OG ute that popped up on FB. Never seen this one before

Right o lads. I’ve been chatting with a couple of guys about this topic and keen to know the answer to report back. is it legal here to “flip ball joints” .. relocate the ball joint above the lower arm using a spacer on top of the arm and a spacer to fill the void the ball joint took up. Obviously using higher grade bolts. im sure I’ve seen this posted somewhere but search results net zero. thanks in advance

A TIKing time bomb?

Wasn’t so much the pinning, but the fact that the water jacket in the housing wasn’t filled/blocked off. So the sealing surface was super narrow and probably never sealed at all from the start. so Jason will rectify that and machine in a new water seal groove so the inner seal isn’t cut like these traditional time bombs. what he explained was awesome and should be standard practice.

I’d have more hope dumping into the Waikato river for a week

One of Mad Mikes mates. bit average way of sealing around the J port. Atleast it’s going to become a great little J once Jason fixes it up

Found the no run issue. coolant seal failure , caused by minimal to none existent sealing around the J port/devcon fill area. everything is coated in a grimey rust. one of the oil control rings were stuck so most likely pumping oil into the housing too. Jason and I came up with a game plan. acid dip the lot, clean everything out and inspect side seal clearances, apex groove clearances, fill the water jacket within the housing, machine in a o ring groove into the housing. paint the plates and housings, reassemble and looking frickin sick. all bearings, plate surfaces, e shaft and housings are in great condition apart from the rusty sludge. im glad it never ran, it probably saved it. will likely ditch the new apex seals for Mazda seals if the groove tolerance is too high. it’s in safe hands now though. Won’t be cheap, but will be much better

With moving out of the shop and starting the new job, I’ve made the tough decision to send the ute away So long…. to Sprint RE.. gave them quite the list of things I’d like to have done, along with a few of Jason’s own ideas. that will give me a much shorter list of things to do before cert, like washer bottle hose, wiper wiring, new brake discs, wheel alignment, 15s and bumper mount brackets to the chassis.

If you take a typical jap ute, and remove the body to use to put a pre 50s body on it, do you keep the plates and tags to that chassis, or is the reg process stay with the body? seeing as most pre 50s bodies are usually deregd.

With closing my business, I get to clear out a lot of my shop space. so will have around 50% of the shop available to let out. i only have the 2 utes in there, the hoist and a couple of workbenches. May have access to compressors, bead roller, shrinker/stretcher,English wheel, hoist etc. I also plan to get rid of the container from the yard, so have that space available for trailer/boat storage. ill give it 4 weeks to let out. can do a deal on one space or multiple spaces. Prefer not to have it overcrowded again. flick me a pm or txt 0276676643

So this is where I’m at with the back end of the ute now. fuel cell has been mounted below the deck on a cradle that bolts up from underneath. a fuel pump will be mounted to the side of the frame and a alloy bash plate /tank protector folded up and screwed to the cradle. just have a couple of things to finish off under here before the flooring can go back in. I noticed that I tacked in one of the tub cabs back to front so that needs to be changed ffs. I pulled the seats out of it today, need to paint the doubler plates and take photos of the sheet metal etc before they go back in. while the seats are out I stripped them right down and will put the tan covers onto a black set I have, cos the passengers seat is full electric not just e- slider , I’ll also wire up the heated seat pads (uppers only). Cos why not. I also figured out how I will do the front driveshaft hoop, it will mount from the chassis not the cab. I’ll get this done when the exhaust is redone. then I got sidetracked and started looking at the bag stuff on the 2nd chassis. should really sell this one to “declutter”.

All good things must come to an end. today was a one of those sad days. i sold the old girl and she’s off on her new adventure in Taranaki. ill miss it, but 600kms of use per year didn’t justify having it around. i know the ute will get driven more than that with plenty of weekend cruises and meet ups around the place. the hunter only ever left the shed to get raped around a course or down the drag strip. so long little buddy

Make offers of much greatness. they have a set of 225/50 semislicks on them.

I did think of that just after I replied. although the chromies are $3-400 more

If I can find a chrome trim ring to fit a black smoothie then I’d be all over it like butter

Modgies have been for sale for aaaaaagggeeessss. i have no 6 stud to fit them in anymore

Like this?