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Everything posted by yoeddynz

  1. Find me one cheap Pete with single mass please.
  2. Rivalrx - 1972 Mazda 618 Coupe

    Mean pulse bro. So whens it coming down to the better island? Go for some hoons on Takaka hill!
  3. Bugger. If I'm give up on my duratec then the loom was one but I wanted to keep as I like having a stash if colour coded wire to use. It's not that insulation I've heard about that mice love to eat is it?
  4. Its become very popular as a swap not only in the UK but also the US where many (2.3) Duratecs have been sold. Plus all the Mazda engines available which are even better. Main reasons are that the engine has a very well designed head which flows well without any mods needed plus the bottom end is very rigid and all in a very lightweight compact package. So many of them about over there that they are a cheap way of decent modern power. A stock engine is 145bhp and throw a set of itbs on with an aftermarket ecu and you have 200plus straight away. Add some decent cams, better rods and pistons and you can have a very reliable 250-300. The Zetec is quite different. Iron block for starters, head doesnt flow as well, timing belt, earlier engines dont have the solid lifters that the Duratecs have. Viva stuff!!! Yeah I am after some bits! I'm looking for a dash top in good condition- after all the work Hannah did in fixing this one up its cracked again in the sun Luckily there isn't really anything else I need except possibly a chevette/Viva HC 1256cc engine but I'm better off sourcing one down here eh - getting stuff down from Auckland and all that.... Yeah I'd love one of those boxes and had one lined up in the UK when I was there in November..$260 but couldnt sort out decent freight in time (hence I had started that freight thread a while back) Problem is the boxes are so bloody expensive here (well in Alex terms they are..) @ around a grand or more. So this is why I was going to do an adaptor plate again.
  5. Yeah it's getting quite a lot of "wow I've not seen a viva wagon like that for years!" here too. Parked it up in the kaiteriteri campground the other night when seeing family and some old bloke came up and asked me if I'd sell it to him. He'd always liked them, wanted one but hadn't seen one in years. Then the security guard at the gates stopped me and said he just had to check it out. He had a Victor fd and had never seen a viva HB wagon.
  6. We stripped the engine down and although there was no sign on the head gasket of blowby the head had a .010" warp. Banana shape, low in the middle. OK I thought.. Not too bad. Valves came up fine with a clean. Hannah put the camshafts back in place without valves to make sure the warping was not causing any binding and they came up sweet.. My mill is too short in travel to skim it in one hit and I thought I'd better get a second opinion anyway. Better check the bores we thought. Hannah cleaned them out and discovered this... Not sure but I think it's just corrosion from where the piston sat a while with water in the bore. Took it along to machine shop and yeah they think so too. But costs are now adding up. Having a re- think because the car is just so damn sweet even as it is. Hmm. Could avoid certification and added costs by just fitting a Chevette engine and playing with that instead. Or maybe a v6 again. Got all excited about the prospect because I have all the parts I need so I decided to weigh one again. All up, starter, alternator, manifolds, injection etc the v6 comes in at around 145kg. Really light for a complete v6 but still 40kg heavier than the stock standard viva 1159cc as it sits in the bay. (plus the mazda gearbox is 10kg heavier) So how can I save weight over the front to offset this?... Fibreglass bonnet could be a start. Hmmmm. No rush anyway. Cars projects are playing second fiddle right now. We've been given enough heaps of decking so itching to start on our cabin build up here...
  7. Well now... I have just gone and bought another Viva. This time its an HB wagon. YES!! I have been after one for ages and ummed and erred over the one that was for sale on Trade me up in Taupo about a month ago for quite some time. But factoring in transport to get it south put me off plus Hannah and I then ended up buying a MK1 Triumph wagon from Christchurch, a car we have always wanted for a long long time but had never seen one for sale at a sensible (read cheap) price. Then Shane, my viva HB mad friend in christchurch offered me his one. Its very rusty but with reg on hold plus a set of Cheviot Turbos I was keen. Hannah offered to go halves on it and that was it. So now we have two very rusty wagons, both circa 1969, to restore. The Triumph is still waiting for our collection. So this HB wagon eh?... yeah its pretty rusty. I had no real idea what it was like but for two photos. Shane brought it up from Chch today and we drove over to Blenheim in my Viva last night to meet him. He was unloading it when we got back from a walk in the hills this morning and my first impression when I slowed to a halt behind it was good. In fact great- it just looks so much cooler in the flesh than I thought it would. The shape is soooo choice. The turbo mags really set it off too. The back was filled up with the doors and the original tailgate. I grabbed some photos then we pushed it into my parents yard. Ha- the look on my parents face. 'FUCK' I had a quick look over it then we went for lunch. Shane and I just chatted Vivas and other old cars. He is a wealth of info on these Vivas having owned something like 40 of them and having done many engine conversions. Anything that is missing he'll sort me out with. After lunch they left to go pick up a Chevette wagon that he has had stashed away in the north island some where. I then took some time to go over the new toy with Hannah and see what we have let ourselves into. Yep- rust. It has rusted in the usual Viva places but is also solid in many of the places I would expect to see rust. Luckily the main chassis rails are not too bad. Drivers side has holes but passenger side solid. The boot floor boot and spare wheel well are great. Weird. The sills are shot, comically so with holes right through inside to out. A smear of filler and she'll be right... The floors are frilly along the inner sill edges. Head lamp areas not too bad luckily- these have welded on front wings so repairs are more time consuming there. Shane has supplied me with a spare whole right front wing cut as the car has a pretty dented one. The roof and gutters are good- just surface rust. Bulkhead good but holes in a few places closer to the inner wings. The very common spot for rust n these is behind the bonnet hinges but it looks to be solid there. Rear valence a bit thin. But it does have a stainless exhaust The engine apparantly runs but really I dont care as its most likely going to be swapped out with something more modern. Maybe I might get it going and driving with it first though. Luckily it has a disc brake front end and a servo. These will help haul back those 54 ponies. I have found a few pieces of the missing puzzle... I love these wheels. In fact I looked for a set ages ago for my Viva before I got the widened steels and couldn't fnd any in 4" pcd. Very rare. One of the few styles of alloys that I think suit these cars. So I am chuffed to bits to have these. two have quite bad curb scrapes so I will have to weld them up and machine them back but nothing major. Curves and sweet wheels.. It comes complete with ICE The dash needs a little bit of amourall... It is now safely parked in my parents carport- having relegatted one of thier manky modern cars out. I think it looks tiny next to what is meant to be a smallish suzuki. My parents think Im a bit nutty. But they know I'll sort it out... We wont start working on this for ages yet. The Triumph will be first in the queue and before that happens we have to get our shed up on the land and move out there. So for now the Viva will wait patiently. I am however quite keen to try out those alloys on my HB so I might fix them up soon. Bed time now as I am exhausted form so much excitement. I wont be back to view any responses (like "you idiot!" and "why that?!!!") from you lot till we get back from more gorse clearing on the bush block on monday night. Until then suggestions and mockery more than welcome Btw- we both love the colour so that will be its future shade- but maybe with a cream roof. Discussion
  8. Id love to build a lightweight sports car based around a mazda V6 I still love this cars sound so much... i've posted it many times but I dont care.
  9. Hmmm. no photos working? . will fix... Fixed.
  10. So because its near the end of the year and I wanted to finish it off by showing Hannah a lovely time we went to the wreckers together. Again. Honestly.. she does love taking cars apart. It is fun. So yesterday while out in the wagon I popped into my local wreckers to browse for engines..as ya do. They made me an offer I couldn't refuse on a Duratec from a 2001 Mundano. $150 for whatever I need from the car because the engine was unknown and that's what it was worth to them to sell to the Middle East (where pretty much all their engines go). We checked it turned over fine with no horrible noises and it seemed fine. I thought it was worth a punt as I could on sell the gearbox and it it all turned out bad I could make money back on the alternator and starter etc. So I paid the money before I changed my mind and came back with Hannah near the end of the day our trusty old van filled with tools. I wanted to get as much of the loom as possible. Even though I will most likely run it all on speeduino with those ITBs it would still be nice to have the option to go somewhat factory (except I'd bin the horrible plastic inlet for a home made nice alloy one!) There were also some other bits we wanted. The dash cluster is quite nice. A bit modern but still good to have in case. Hannah fell in love with the cup holder. Yeah.. seriously. It is quite cool the way it pop outs and would be so neat to build it into a centre console really neatly. So that had to get removed too. So some photos of the afternoons work and later in the evening in stripping the engine... The Mundano in question. Sans heart. Looked it up on carjam and the car has done only 136,000 kms. Barely run in. Or trashed within an inch of its life with no oil changes and spun bearings. Who knows. Its a gamble. Its had two owners. Fun times for all.. One engine and box... Back home and out with the old hoist.. Uglyness with all the crap on... I started removing bits. The exhaust cover came off and revealed a not too shabby looking set of headers! I reckon they might even sit in the bay without much hacking needed. Time will tell but at the very least I have a decent flange and start point to build my own if needed. I pulled the remaining bits off. Power steering pump, FWD engine mount. Left it as a complete engine including the very very heavy dual mass flywheel. Lowered it onto my scales and it came up at 120kg. No starter but the hoist chain on top would easily equal the starter. I think the single mass flywheels are about 10kg lighter. Here's the horrible boat anchor flywheel I speak of... I had weighed my complete spare Viva engine setup a couple of months ago. That lot came to 106kg. So there we have it- if what ever inlet setup I use stays close to the weight of the stock Duratec (horrid) plastic affair I am reckoning on adding no more than maybe 10kg over the front axle. I can handle that. Other things to consider are how far back I can mount it and how heavy an mx5 etc box is. But its all pretty close. The alloy sump will need cutting and shutting and I'll need to fabricate a new thermostat housing to get the stock one out of the way. But as it sits its already looking like a neat unit. I love the fact the inlet is on the passenger side so I'll have plenty of room for what ever inlet setup I decide to fabricate. Here it is sitting ready. Waiting. Next thing is to spin it over and see what the compression figures are. The strip will continue. Oh and the dash. I quite like its gauges. I might use it in bits. Maybe. I have a fondness for the old strip speedo but I did like the gauge setup I made in the last Viva. Back soon with more engine photos to delight you all.
  11. In more recent news.. these turned up in our mailbox couple of days ago. They're off a Toyota 4AGE 20v Blacktop engine. About 3mm larger diameter bore than the ITBs from the earlier silver top engine. They have a taper bore and seem very similar in dimensions to the SBD units (though not quite as sexy..) http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Duratec/Fuel Injection Kits, Backplates.htm I wanted these Toyota items as they don't have built in injectors points plus they have a decent enough size bore to suit larger engines compared to many of the bike units..I am aware one can go too big on ITBs and create slow flow rates at low revs and with this in mind these ones would really be best suited to a larger engine, 2.0- 2.5. I think the 20V gets away with it because there are three inlet valves and good flow at high revs are needed for those engines to breathe properly. The Mazda V6 has a neat injector setup Id want to keep if I went down the V6 route again (however I'll need to find another set if I go that way) If I go with a four pot then I'm good to go. I'd like to trim these down a little and fit them with the injectors below to keep things really neat. Make an adaptor plate to take the ITBs and also have bosses to insert some injector into. Anyway- its nice just having them sit about looking good. Hannah and I had to visit Nelson for shopping today. We popped into a wreckers and had a look at some motors and did some measuring/photos. Hannah jotted the sizes down. I'm very romantic like that. I like to show a lady a good time...in a wreckers yard, full of old engines. It was very exciting.
  12. WLDRX2's .......Rx2

    I know its against the norm but I now prefer the shape of the Rx2s over Rx3s- even after having owned the 3 coupe. The shape of a 2 is so much better in proportion. And normally I'm not a big fan of 4 doors but the 2's pull it off. I would lovvvvvvvve a Fiat Dino coupe and both being Bertone designed I can see the similarity between them and rx2 coupes. Beautiful. Who polished the carb body?
  13. Edit; It seems to be that many images I had hosted by Imageshack are missing. I have tried to retrieve them back but they are gone gone.. curse word. Plus Imageshack now want monies to host photos. Then Photofuckit decided that after years of free hosting service it will start charging $400. So please excuse the missing photos as I slowly swap in replacements Hello! I have owned this little Viva for a while but only finally got around to actually working on it. I have finally started getting a proper move on with it in the last month or so. Getting excited about having it ready for summer shows. Last year while still living in England I bought an old rusty Rx7 from a friend who owns the oldest Mazda dealership in the UK. It was a rare Elford Turbo series 2 rx7. The Elford Turbo was a Mazda approved conversions by a dealership in Bournemouth. It only runs at 5psi- enough though to add 40 ponies and a load more torque. Which is nice. The Rx7 behind our faithful old BMW 525tds wagon, the rust, the engine... Here is some info on it... not a lot out there really. http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=UDHl8kXiaccC&pg=PA59&lpg=PA59&dq=elford+turbo&source=bl&ots=QcnD4WApUs&sig=FgrchpIzSVOqfgOqTtjaP1GsDDM&hl=en&ei=KlDES9HbK47AMtWs5K4O&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAUQ6AEwADgU#v=onepage&q=elford turbo&f=false He had rebuilt the engine fully using all new parts (handy when you own a dealership eh) a few years back but the body work had become tired so I got the car at a very nice price. Engine is barely run in. By the time I had sold loads of other bits and pieces from the rx7 (koni shocks, springs, interior bits) I made back enough money that all the parts I needed only cost me £50!!! £50 for a rebuilt engine...I was very happy. So all the parts went in a container back to NZ. I had also got some spax shocks before leaving- spax were just 5 miles up the road from where I lived so it was rude not to. My Viva started off as a standard deluxe with the little 1100 engine. This just had to go. It was burning a lot of oil (about a pint every 100 miles) and was no fun at all. I then fitted a 1660 ford xflo from an escort. I rebuilt it with a sport cam, brand new weber32/36, brand new 'Bestek' electronic ignition setup. Ford engine going in... Engine mounts lined up nicely.. It ran very well indeed but still felt a tad agricultural compared to the rotary engines I had become used to. While I was fitting the xflo and the engine bay was empty I slung a rotary in there just for a look. I knew as soon as I slung the 12A into the bay that a rotary would be a nice conversion. The gearbox mount sat bang in the middle of the original g/box support and there seemed plenty enough room in the bay for exhaust building etc. Good clearance around the tunnel. So after a while of driving around with the xflo I decided to crack on with the conversion to rotary. I sold the ford engine to a fella with an escort looking for an engine. Got really good money for it too! He came round and after seeing the engine run helped me pull it out... I bought some goodies from a fellow Vauxhall nutter here in NZ including an 1800 axle, big 3.3 Vauxhall Ventora front discs on modified lower arms, a brake servo. I got these seats as I just couldn't get along with the originals. I don't really like the idea of losing my neck from someone rear ending me. It does and probably will happen so head rests are a must for me. So out with these old seats... Then in with these Momo seats. They are out of an Alfa GTV and match almost perfectly!- I'm really happy because its not often I see modern seats with the 'fluted?' style of cover to match the rear seat. Colour match is almost spot on too! I have now removed the seats and my original mounts as I will have to redo the mountings for when it comes to being certified. I have also had to deal with some rust. Just a bit on one arch. I cut it out and welded fresh steel in. As always it turned out to be worse than I first thought so I'm glad I've done it now!!! Its all painted now. There is one little bit on the offside wing, a little bubble, that I am going to leave. I'll paint behind it with epoxy paint and see how long it takes before the skin breaks. I don't want to touch it now because I'll never get a decent match on the paint for that area. I shall treat it as a little experiment as interested to see how long it stays confined/encapsulated by the paint.
  14. Very nice. New door aperture liner thingee (or what neal said). I's it the cloth type? Damn I miss those seats. Been looking at some more in England for my wahon (never seen them come up for sale in nz) and they still ain't cheap. £400 for tidy ones like those. Next.
  15. My first question is- I will have to mount my seats in following the LVVTA rules thingee. I will use the right sized surface area steel plate on top of the floor but on the underside can I use big washers between floor skin and nuts or will I have to sandwich the floor with two plates of the same size? And it mentions that welding of seat brackets must be done by a certified welder or the certifier has to be shown relevant proof that I can weld to those standards? Come again? Photos of certed seat mounts would be great to get some ideas. The seats are like most Recaro style rails- just 4 bolts straight down. Rails sit flat on floor at front but I need to build something about 50mm high at back as floor is that much lower.
  16. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Oh yeah.. A Dro on a mill would be ideal for this!
  17. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Oh and yeah.. If I had access to cnc measuring gear etc I'd do it that way too. However.. For what is a pretty simple few bits to make up plus the fact it will be as accurate as you can be bothered to make it this way is pretty easy for anyone who has access to a lathe. Certainly do make records, as shall I, so we can help others out if they want to make an adaptor.
  18. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Problem with vernier calipers is they don't locate perfectly in the holes. However.. If you scribe the X marks onto the plate using dividers you could then measure them properly using calipers.. Certainly close enough to be accurate for the purpose. I'll add another thing I forgot to mention in my last post...
  19. Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate

    Go back to simple basic methods. Get it spot on. No room for error.. Your first motion support bearing will get trashed if its out even a small amount. So I have drawn some superbly beautiful and elegant drawings for you based roughly on how I did mine. I hope this doesn't come across as know it all. Hopefully others who read your discussion thread might find this info useful because it's much the same for all adaptor plates. Step one. Big plate of metal. I chose 10mm alloy and machined steel inserts for any threaded hole. However I think Steve's use of steel instead is simpler (and cheaper) with his adapter only weighing 2.5kg. Drill a tiny hole, say 1mm, right through the centre thus giving a reference point on each side because you'll be marking each side separately. Step two. Don't trust Internet measurements for bell housings. Do it yourself. Machine a tophat sleeve that fits tightly between the input/first motion shaft and the release bearing support tube. This will stop it wiggling about so you know your measurements will be correct each direction. Machine a hat that fits tightly over the end of the input shaft. Using a small centre drill bit, drill a tiny hole in the centre. Step three. Machine a cap for over the crank end (I can't remember now if there is a pilot bearing hole in there or not...if so then machine something to fit in that hole. Drill a centre hole in which ever you make. Step four. Spin the tops off some spare bolts in the lathe. Whilst still in the lathe drill a tiny hole. Step five/six. Measure things. A big pair of dividers is ideal. Measure centre out and between the bolts. Step seven. Transfer your measurements. Double check. Drill and be happy. Once you've drilled them you can cut out the general shape and check it. I guess if you're not sure do one on some three 3mm plate first. For my plate into the mazda engine several of the bolts that go into the block needed large counter sunk heads as they sat right under the bellhousing flange. You need to clamp the plate down hard on a mill or large drill press and centre it perfectly over the hole before you countersink. If not clamped it will move and it's the tapered head that has the final say in location. If its out it'll force things out or just not seat right. If it's all good save those measurements for your future reference! I failed to do so and will have to go through all this again if I decide to V6 my wagon (so bloody tempting because they are such lush sounding wee engines) Alex Edit: something to note.. Make sure you measure across a flat plain. Ie the centre point is the same height as the bolt head face. If there is any difference in height there will be a error introduced as you transfer the measurement onto the flat plate. Easy enough to raise the bolt or centre cap to make them level.
  20. It's the mazda L series. Nc Mx5 and last gen mondeo. Only ford are continuing using them whereas mazda have since moved on. The1. 8 and 2.0 are about 100kg all up. Only RWD boxes that fit are Mx5 and some Ford pickup boxes. There are bellhousings available to suit type 9 and t5 boxes. But at £200 I might as well get the 5 speed Mx5 box with the great ratios and avoid the type 9 yuck (I can't afford a type 9 from a 2.8 capricorn.. All gone expensive. I had one too and sold it on cheap...:-( https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_L_engine
  21. Apv van? Cheers for info. Am I right in that the vitara boxes have a removable transfer case? In other news it's looking more like heading down the duratec route. Found some cheap Mx5 mk3 5 speed boxes to suit. Great ratios., great boxes. Bolt straight on. Even better is the amount of cheap nc engines! Search continues.
  22. Has been done. I remember reading a neat article in ppc mag years back. A fella mounted a turbo under his pug gti at the back. Alloy outlet pipe running forward to engine bay had external fins and acts as an intercooler. Requires scavenge pump for oil return. Future ideas.... As for batteries etc... One day maybe but expensive and heavy. Plus I prefer the look of something like this to a battery or electric motor...
  23. It's not power I'm worried about.. It's handling. Less weight over the front really helps the turn in and for easy nippy driving.
  24. One thing I love about the idea of a duratec is the inlet manifold being on the passenger side so allowing heaps of space for decent length throttle bodies.