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About zep

  • Birthday 01/06/1985


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  1. Thanks. I'll do a bit of searching and see if this is a common issue with this kit (although I'd imagine they are all similar).
  2. For my daily - how can I determine if a strut spacer lift kit will be certable? I'm looking at this one which seems to be well designed and includes subframe spacers to ensure the alignment is not wrecked, as well as adapters for the longer brake hoses, etc. https://lpaventure.com/collections/outback-2010-2013/products/lp-aventure-2-lift-kit-2010-2013-outback The installation PDF in there has heaps of install pics.
  3. I've been waiting for this picture for a long time - we started talking about these cams during the first lockdown last year, so I'm glad that they're finally here! One of these 4 blank cams - which haven't ever been made with this much juicy lobe for a 4Z engine - is mine. I mentioned above that it is getting the "Brawler" grind. Hopefully that's not too far away.
  4. @Abarth and I hit up Pick-a-Part and Zebra yesterday and I managed to get a Subaru e-pedal. It doesn't have the look of the plastic lattice motorsport ones, but I think it's still good, and the shape is non too dissimilar to the stock Gemini one. I am still debating as to whether or not I try to cut and shut the Gemini pedal to the Subaru arm, keeping a stock look. Either way, it looks like it should not be too difficult to mount. The biggest issue I can see is that the pedal to mounting point distance on the Subaru unit is about 30mm deeper than the Gemini one - I need to have a better look at the firewall in the car though, see where everything fits.
  5. Maxspeeding rods are $325 on eBay, versus $490AUD for Spool rods. I'm kinda leaning towards Spool as at least they will have proper support if something is a bit funky.
  6. Thanks for the tip. I'll do a bit of reading.
  7. Hello everybody and welcome to another installment of Guess what expensive thing zep just bought! Today we're really ramping up the costs with a really fast spinny thing. No, it's a not a fidget spinner, and no, not chatter rings. What could it be? Third time's a charm and you guessed it, a Borgwarner EFR6758 T25 0.64 turbo charger! This is not a huge turbo but it's the biggest I've owned! I went with the lower A/R to get maximum low down boost. The wheels are 67mm on the compressor and 58mm on the turbine. It's rated for between 250 and 500 hp, so more than enough room to play with. I guess this is a better time than any to outline my plans for the engine. As you would have read, I've ditched the G161z and am upgrading to a 4ZD1, which is a 2.3 litre 4 cylinder - still Isuzu, it comes out of a Trooper. The 4Z engine series are essentially a new version of the G series, the main difference being that they are belt rather than chain driven, and of course come in larger capacities (2.0, 2.3 and 2.6). There has and continues to be a lot of development for both the 4Z and G series engines over in Aussie. For the 4Z, most of it is happening around the 2.6 4ZE1 but it applicable to all engines. My engine will be a 4ZD1 with a 4ZE1 head, which has much larger ports than the D1 head. The head will also have Brawler light weight high-ratio (1.8 I think) rockers, Brawler light weight valve springs and retainers, and a brand new, super hard billet cam with a Brawler grind, both of which are newly developed. The high ratio rockers are designed to work in tandem with the new cam grind. For now I will just keep the stock valve sizes, which are 38mm and 44mm, but will make sure the ports flow well. The bottom end will have custom CP pistons, also made in conjunction with Brawler, to bring the compression up to about 9.0:1 and make sure the valves have plenty of space to play with. For rods I'll use MaxSpeeding or Spool, not sure yet. No plans for the crank, is it worth mucking around with it? Obviously I will be running this turbo on the exhaust side, and the inlet is a 66mm Bosch throttle body. A crank pulley mounted CAS will provide the signal and four LS1 coils will give it spark. Everything will be controlled with a new LINK G4X Xtreme, which might just be the focus of the next installment of Guess what expensive thing zep just bought!, so keep that in mind!
  8. The 4 linking project begins! After a whole lot of research into building a 4 link from scratch, I ended up taking to a dude in Aussie who has built a few rally Geminis. His suggestion was to buy a kit from Group 4 Fabrications in Ireland. He's given me all the info on exactly how to go about mounting it correctly so I'm pretty stoked that this has shown up.
  9. So it looks like I might have been a little to quick to pull that pedal out. The thing is, e-throttle pedals have two APSs (Accelerator Position Sensors), they both read the same thing but are used for contingency so it can't get stuck on or something. Essentially, the ECU reads both sensors and if they are the same it says "go". They are both 0-5v. The Hella units are not designed in this same way. They have one APS that is 0-5v, and another PWM 12v output that is not supported by either Link or Haltech. The workaround is to split the single APS output from the pedal into two wires at the ECU, essentially sending the same signal to each. However, this eliminates the contingency. I've had a stuck accelerator pedal before and it's not fun. In light of that I think I'm going to try and find a Bosch unit that has the correct outputs. There seem to be plenty - I've already seen some on eBay that are cheaper to buy and ship to NZ than it is to get from Pick-A-Part. I hope my mistake has been enlightening for others! Otherwise, I'm just dropping this wiring info for the Bosch throttlebody here:
  10. If you read the tech forum you'll know I was trying to figure out where I could score a drive-by-wire throttle and pedal without having to pay over $500 for new Bosch motorsport units. On the weekend I went to Pick-A-Part to look for some rear calipers, but ended up finding exactly what I needed for the throttle setup. Turns out that almost every Euro from 2000 onwards has the right setup - the 68mm Bosch throttlebody. There are a few variations in them as some have water passages, etc, so I ended up removing about 4 or 5 before I found one I liked, which came from a Volvo V50 (2004-2012). It has no water lines and is pretty tidy. I wanted to get the pedal from the V50 too, but with the seat in the way and unmovable due to lack of power I couldn't get up under the dash properly to remove the bolts. Instead I found one from a an earlier (2000-2007) V70. It's made by Hella but looks suspiciously like the Bosch unit of the same era. I'm pretty sure the V50's pedal was a Hella also, so I am assuming these should work well together. Like the throttlebodies, there were quite a few pedal options from different euro cars, especially VWs, but some had weird mounting patterns etc. I took this one mostly because of how similar it looked to the Bosch unit, with the plastic lattice bracing in the arm, rather than a thin metal arm. The plan is to get a Link G4X Xtreme or Fury to run these.
  11. @cletus I saw in another thread you mentioned that Wilwoods with integrated handbrakes have failed the cert test. I wonder if you had heard or seen anything about these: https://fastlanespares.co.nz/products/wilwood-powerlite-caliper-with-handbrake
  12. Thanks. I've checked the manual and it seems easy enough. I wanted to use regular bushed joints at each end to fully reduce the harshness. I guess that I could always swap them out for heims if the thread is the same.
  13. When building 4-link bars, how do I determine what bush ends are legit and what are not? Also, are there per-determined widths that they should be? Most seem to come in 2.5" and 3". What about the centre bore/bolt size? Some are forged and some are welded: vs
  14. Apart from the wheels, what other items do the new certs have photos of?
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