zep

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About zep

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  • Birthday 01/06/1985

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  1. I've finally got all the chrome off my test light surround. I'm going to take it to Lucentt today to be coated. I'll be super stoked if it comes out good - hopefully I end up being able to use it as the final version.
  2. One thing I need to figure out is how to get the compression ratio I want. I know I want to use a 4ZE1 (2.6) head on my 4ZD1 (2.3) as they have much larger ports. I know I want to run approximately 8.5:1 compression ratio. There are two different E1 heads, "open" chamber (74cc), and "kidney" chamber (58cc). Bear in mind that I am calculating the following with custom pistons at 0 deck height: If I just bolt on the open chamber head, it will give a 7.8:1 compression ratio with the flat top, 0 desk height pistons. Solution, shave the head down (or add material to the chambers) to 67cc. The kidney head I can buy brand new online. If I bolt that on it will give around 9.5:1 compression, so too high. I can fix this buy specifying a -8cc dish in the pistons. As I write this, I'm leading towards the kidney head as if something goes wrong in the future, I won't have the search out an open chamber head and modify it to get back to where I was. I'm not sure if there is any difference in the casting of the heads, otherwise. Kidney: Open:
  3. Let's do this one more time. This morning I received a full SuperPro bushing kit. And it's missing just one swaybar linkage bushing - who ever packed them put them in loose and the box ripped in transit. Hopefully can get one sent to me asap.
  4. zep

    Zep's gem'

    Cheers. It's a conundrum getting this paint off. Lots of things will get paint off of chrome, but I need to be careful that whatever I use doesn't touch any of the now de-chromed plastic! Should have removed the paint first!
  5. Just another post where I bought a thing and did no actual constructive work. Injector Dynamics ID1050x - if you're looking for these, Possum Borne Motorsport seemed to have the best price locally.
  6. If you've been following my thread about plastic chroming: then you'll know I've been trying to dechrome and rechrome my plastic (ABS) tail light surrounds. It's been a bit of a saga, but I have some positive news. Before the lockdown I gave a test part to an electroplater in Onehunga to try and strip the chrome off without damaging the plastic. I never heard anything and assumed that nothing had happened, so I rolled down at lunchtime today and get it and figure something else out. Turns out he'd given it a go and it started to work fairly well. The main issue was that the surrounds have a significant amount of paint on them, as they were fully chromed from the factory but painted over leaving only the edges exposed. The chemicals he was using wouldn't penetrate the paint to get to the chrome, so I need to fully paint stripped and give it back to him. Compare these two images, the first is the back of the surround where the chrome was thinner and had no paint; the second is front that has some paint - you can see where the chrome is starting to come off but the plater dude didn't leave it in the solution long enough because of the paint issue. I'm pretty confident that once I've got all the paint off, it will not be too difficult to get these back to pure plastic. (I'll upload a pic of the back prior to the stripping after I next visit the garage). Any tips on paint stripping that will be safe on plastic? I've heard DOT 4 brake fluid should be okay, as well as oven cleaner with caustic soda. The only other news is that I finally went into work where I had some stuff waiting for me in the in-tray. Nothing totally exciting really, stuff from the wreckers in Aussie: a non-butchered (due to fitting the boss kit) ignition surround and some good condition door handles. Mine were in a bit of a shit condition and the place I got my bumpers restored at wanted $150 per handle to fix and couldn't guarantee how well they would come out - these were $35 each and look pretty good.
  7. It seems that I got prematurely excited about not having to modify the sump. The engine is sitting on the mounts but the sump is just touching the steering rack. That leaves me with two options. Lower the rack by 10-15mm, or cut and shut the sump. I'm leaning towards the second option. This is mainly because the steel bowl of these sumps has a fun tendency to sit super low, around 20mm lower than the bottom of the x-member. Lot of people just deal with it, but my x-member is not much higher than 100mm off the ground, so that's too low for me. Since I'll have to modify the bowl and the pickup, may as well just sort the rest of the sump while I'm at it. The other, less terrible but still annoying issue is that the 'wing' on the bowl does not leave much room for the dump pipe: So if I'm modding all this stuff then I may as well chop the side off. I can make it up on the other side. I've got a fair idea of what I need to do; if only I had a fair idea of how to weld things
  8. I found a workshop manual that clearly lays out the two different sumps. The 4WD one looks to be quite a bit lower. I could potentially space the engine up, wouldn't be difficult. I've also heard, though, that this sump leaves little space for the exhaust, so spacing it up would probably reduce that space.
  9. Engine is now sitting in the garage. I've spoken to a few of the Aussie 4Z engine boys about what I picked up and they are mostly confused. It seems that there is some difference between the Isuzu and Holden 4Z engines. Basically, none of then Aussies have ever seen a 4ZD1 with an alloy sump, they typically have steel sumps. The 4ZE1 (which is essentially the same block but taller and wider bores) usually has an alloy sump. My 4ZD1 has an alloy sump. A normal E1 alloy sump looks like the one in the back of this next picture, and you cut and shut it as shown. My D1 alloy sump is basically flat. Two of the Aussies had never seen a sump like that before, and one thinks it might be similar to very early E1 sumps. Here are some pics: The hopeful part about this is that I might not need to modify the sump, it should clear the steering rack. However, the third Aussie thinks that the bowl might sit too low and I might need to reduce its height and shorten the oil pickup. My thoughts are that that is more difficult that using my other E1 sump (pic 1) and doing the cut and shut. Anyway, need to drop the engine into the car to see how this mystery sump fits around everything. Pic of engine looking nice and grotty. Dude who sold it to me says it wasn't blown when he got the car, but that the fuel pump gave out or something. It turns over by hand super easy which provides some hopefulness.
  10. zep

    Zep's gem'

    Hopefully works now. Too good to be true thinking you can copy/paste into the reply box eh?
  11. zep

    Zep's gem'

    Ah shit, I was just copying the image and pasting it in the forum, assuming that the forum would auto pull them over. I'll fix that.
  12. Hightailed it down to Whanganui via New Plymouth over the weekend to extract a 4ZD1 engine out of a Trooper. It's 2.3 litre and about 110hp in stock form. Will bolt up to my standard Gem 5-speed and into the bay with the Gem engine mounts. Will probably use the 4ZE1 (2.6) head on it as it has better combustion chambers and way bigger ports. Thanks @alfalfa for helping out.
  13. zep

    Zep's gem'

    You know it. I'm having second thoughts about whether or not it's going to work. I need to get the engine sitting in the bay to check the actual space I'm working with. Hopefully can do that after I get it this weekend. The only other update is that I took a piece of chrome plastic trim to an electroplater to attempt to be de-chromed so I can have it re-chromed. This was in March. They haven't tried to do it yet. At least they haven't lost it. Anyone have any suggestions for de/rechroming plastic in Auckland?
  14. Removed the random flow paths
  15. zep

    Zep's gem'

    @kyteler Literally the only reason why I did that was so it doesn't just look like a large piece of flat sheet metal. You are right, it will funnel air out the sides that will be more useful going through the radiator. Will close it up, and it makes it easier to put together anyway.