sr2

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About sr2

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/08/1956

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    Male
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    Music, Cars, bikes, boats, family, more family and good Bourbon.

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    Auckland

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  1. Some six months or so ago, after considerable research, (drunken chewing of the fat with our mates) and in depth self-analysis, (a Bottle of 101 Wild Turkey) both Rigamortice and myself came to the inevitable conclusion that the ideal carburation solution for the new 208ci “186 X2” had to be the period correct set of 3x 1¾ HS6 SU carbs on the vintage Speco manifold. We will however run the motor in and get the dodgy legals done with the tried and proven Weber DCD setup. (Anyone after a triple set of 40 DEOCE’s and a 9 port manifold – just ask). I did a quick dummy assembly with a spare motor for a bit of man-cave decoration.
  2. You'll have to let on, the suspense is killing us! I'm hoping it will be a totally impracticable and at the least able to be described as an unwieldy one of a kind solution to a problem that that never existed in the first place.
  3. LOL; sounds like you're setting me up for flogging someones mooring?
  4. Thanks for the encouraging words, there are no rules here other than different strokes for different folks. I'm so enjoying the originality of your build. IMOP please don't just go for yet another SBC Chev or Ford or even the venerable side-valve V8. To keep in character with what you're building you need to think out of the square, how about a sidevalve Super Snipe 6 (ask your Dad), a straight 8 Packlard/ Hudson etc., a Chev Blueflame or even an old GM Gimmy diesel? Either way the bottom line is it's your build and your choice so don't listen us lot, the choice is entirely up to you. As a die hard fan of totally impractical solutions of problems that never existed in the first place I'm head over heals in love with your "ultra rare" carb setup. When Holden mistakenly put two carburetors on the X2 HR 9 port head ( trying to divide 2 into 9 was not their brightest idea, and it got even more ludicrous with the 153624 firing order) the Aussie aftermarket crowd furiously entered the fray! What you have there is pure gold, don't ever expect it to work properly (unless with overly rich jetting) but in all my years of messing about with Holden 6's I've never seen one before.
  5. I couldn't agree more mate, I still think getting "triggered" has something to do with shooting possums!
  6. Just found a genuine J.P. high volume oil pump still in its original sealed wrapping, snapped that one up quick!
  7. One of the pleasures of chasing down Oldschool car parts has to be the people you meet. I scored these timing gears off an old guy who was building a replica of the Torana he used to circuit race many years ago. Talk about a wealth of knowledge on modifying Holden 6’s, he was more than happy let me pick his brains for an hour or so when I collected them. (Thanks Grant, you've not only earned my respect - you rock!).
  8. I’m always chasing after new “old stock” parts and never cease to be amazed by what’s still out there. I picked up these brass frost-plugs on Trademe, I’m guessing they’re early 80’s? What I really love is the cars listed on the back of the packet, after surviving all these years it’s almost a shame that I’ll be breaking the seal and using them.
  9. A 50 plus year old cast iron block accumulates a lot of and corrosion (and crap) to say the least. Time to trust the old 186 X2 block to the caring hands of Kiwi-Strip in Avondale. What can I say; the place is a piece of history, these old boys simply rock. Picture a dilapidated old concrete building down an unsealed, pot-holed driveway at the far end of Patiki Rd.; less than meters from the mangroves, guarded by two ferocious miniature poodles and overseen by an old girl straight out of the ‘Blue rinse set’ (it’s almost Monty Python!). Once inside your senses are overwhelmed with the chemical smell of paint strippers, rust and acid while men with gnarled hands and protective rubber aprons use overhead gantries and fork hoists to lower everything from old joinery to car bodies into huge steaming baths of caustic chemicals, acidic solvents and preservative solutions. The place would make a fantastic set for a horror movie, (and they never found the body………etc.!). As always they did a great job at a good price, considering the block will be stroked and bored out another 500 cc having the water ways clean should help with the cooling.
  10. Just a big thanks to the guys at Auckland Panel and Paint who have been storing Rigamortice for the duration of the house renovations. Great to see a very modern high-tech panel shop that still has a corner for classic cars, their level of workmanship is up there with the best.
  11. sr2

    Electric fan sensor placement

    For monitoring engine temperature (i.e. to control a gauge) the sender needs to be mounted in either the top radiator hose or preferably in the thermostat housing. Reason being is that the objective is to show the temperature of the water coming from the engine not the radiator. The sender is essentially a temperature controlled rheostat. The job the OP’s ‘electric fan sensor’ is required to perform is to switch on the cooling fan when the supply of cooled water from the radiator (i.e. the bottom hose supplying the engine) is insufficient to allow the thermostat to keep the engine at the optimum stable temperature. Put simply the fan sensor switch is there to regulate the temperature of the water the radiator is delivering to the motor, not the temperature of the motor itself. Temp gauge sender in the top rad hose (or thermostat housing) and radiator fan temp switch in the lower hose. Hope this clarifies the issue.
  12. Yes, we're all speculating here but you could well be right. My take was that I've only seen style of 'production line porting' and the sleeved head bolts from Yella Terra?
  13. LOL; point well made and most certainly taken!
  14. Hi guys. Suddenly it’s well over a year since my last post; please rest assured the reincarnation of Rigamortice has anything but vanished into the ether. When browsing the many and varied projects on this esteemed website it becomes rapidly apparent that an affliction shared by many Oldschoolers (apart from an inclination towards inebriation and a well-developed appreciation of totally impractical automotive projects) is a tendency to suffer from periodic bouts of what can only be described as the ‘dreaded and infamous home-handyman-itis’. Whereas the rest of the world engages the services of builders, plumbers, sparkies, painters, etc. some of us are burdened with an irrational compulsion to do it the hard way. I’ll have to come clean and admit as a fellow sufferer I have been on a bender and have sunk to a new ‘home-handyman-itis’ fuelled low, (someone please book me into rehab!) . While Rigamortice has been languishing in the luxurious comfort of the storage area of a mates panel shop I have demolished every internal wall in our house, designed a new modern floorplan, replaced 90% of all wiring and plumbing, installed a new kitchen, a new bathroom, heat pumps, insulated everything, installed state of the art data, audio visual, CCTV, alarm/access, …..etc. (Have to say the Brownie points with the ever lovely Mrs sr2 are looking good!). The icing on the cake will be the yet to be built machine room off the main garage that will free up space for Rigamortice’s impending surgery. Do not lose the faith my friends, project updates coming soon!
  15. sr2

    How to remove a brake booster permanently

    The correct way to compensate for removing a cars brake booster is to either increase the swept area of the caliper pistons or reduce the bore size of the master cylinder; the latter being the preferable option. The trade-off for the increase in pedal leverage is an increase in pedal travel. Remote in-line boosters (hydrovacs) are another option but you'll need to fit two, you'll be stepping back to 1960's technology and they will still take up a lot of space.