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About sr2

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  • Birthday 02/08/1956

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    Music, Cars, bikes, boats, family, more family and good Bourbon.


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  1. Thanks guys, sounds like it's as I suspected.
  2. Hi Guys, a quick question. I'm working on a brake & booster upgrade on a mates classic, a 318 VF Regal Coupe he's owned for 30 plus years - it's a babe! I'd like to use copper nickel brake lines (sometimes called cunifer or cupro-nickel) for their corrosion resistance and installed well they look heaps better than bundy tubing. Question is, I know its OK to use in Australia and I would be very surprised if it wasn't OK for NZ but is there any documentation available to confirm before I put a heap of time into making up new brake lines? Cheers, Si.
  3. You're not the first to have 'issues' with Autoblast. A good mate had an underbody blast & paint on his classic a year or so back. When the transmission shat itself a week later we discovered blasting media in the trans oil. Shortly after we discovered their "all care and no responsibility" policy!
  4. sr2

    FiTech EFI

    LOL, you may have a good point there! Luckily with the recent gun buyback by our glorious leader there are no irresponsible AR15 owners in NZ and all firewall penetration's are drilled to the correct diameter and fitted with the appropriate grommet! On a more serious note I have to admit that after 20 odd years of running Autronic ECU's in our competition cars the majority of failures have been from wiring issues i.e. vibration, heat, rubbing, chaffing etc.
  5. sr2

    FiTech EFI

    My 10 cents worth if I may. My brother runs the well-known (in Tarmac Rallying) Cheetah race car and yes there are a few decades of sibling rivalry between our two teams – you’ve got to keep these bloody older bro’s in their place! His current motor of choice is a 420 cubes plus Dart “small block” running AFR Heads with the best internals he can source. It’s cam’d to be a torque monster with the standard joke being that despite having a 6 speed Richmond behind it you only needs 2 gears for most Targa stages, it’s just simply buckets of useable power everywhere. Up until 18 months a
  6. I couldn't agree with you more mate; hard not to dispute that the NZ LVVTA 'old boys whiskey club' would be both loud and vocal in their objections. In my opinion if the ratio's & engineering (i.e. design, materials and construction) were of an acceptable standard the linkage would be no more complex than many production cars (the RHD E30 or Mk 1 Escort springs to mind).
  7. Am I right in presuming it's the L300 m/cyl?
  8. Sorry - I'm a little late to this thread I'd be wary of not having the compensation port at the highest point of the master-cylinder. In the years I spent in the industry I can only remember one OEM setup where this did not not apply - the very early vertically mounted 'tin type' mini was a dog in more ways than one, it was quickly replaced with a conventional setup. Yes if you bench bleed before installation (as you always should) there's every chance you'll get away with it but don't forget the compensation port is open to the atmosphere when the pedal is at rest effectively leav
  9. The new m/cyl looks great. Do me a favor and pull the mastervac check valve out, poke the longest finger (or didget!) you posses in there and let me know if there's any residual brake fluid there. if there is PM me and I'll talk you through a booster rebuild or you can bring it (and a bottle) to the world famous sr2 mancave in Milford and we'll do it in person.
  10. The Hunter came out with a Lockheed Hydrovac brake booster from new?
  11. I worked for APPCO brake and clutch in the 80's. Originally we used to re-sleeve with brass inserts; easy to hone, average wearing but most importantly easy to keep in place with an interference fit. Stainless was the holey grail but was not suitable for an interference fit, at the time we put a lot of R&D into finding a suitable adhesive to do the job - these days it's a no brainer! I'd suggest for re-sleeving to contact Just Brakes in Penrose. Many old Holden parts in NZ are exorbitantly priced, I buy most of my Holden 6 bits from Australia. I've bought a lot of parts from th
  12. Great info there mate, this one needs to be pinned.
  13. LOL, I'd be taking Weber Specs comments with a grain of salt. They have a reputation for being somewhat.... ahem..... "opinionated" to say the least, (looks like they were angling to sell you a new 32/36?). I ran an XE Coon in the early 90's and the 34ADM on it started, idled and ran smoothly - a huge improvement on the stromberg carb on the XA Coon I'd had before. It's hard to escape that this has been a very common swap in Aussie for decades and most use the existing 'Coon jetting. Classic example from the GMH-Torana Forum - these guys know their stuff. http://ww
  14. Weber Specs charge like the proverbial wounded bull. Go and see Bruce Manon from Manon & Butler Motors in Barrys Point Rd Takapuna, IMOP hes one of the best Weber tuners in the country.
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