sr2

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About sr2

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  • Birthday 02/08/1956

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    Music, Cars, bikes, boats, family, more family and good Bourbon.

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    Auckland

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  1. The Hunter came out with a Lockheed Hydrovac brake booster from new?
  2. I worked for APPCO brake and clutch in the 80's. Originally we used to re-sleeve with brass inserts; easy to hone, average wearing but most importantly easy to keep in place with an interference fit. Stainless was the holey grail but was not suitable for an interference fit, at the time we put a lot of R&D into finding a suitable adhesive to do the job - these days it's a no brainer! I'd suggest for re-sleeving to contact Just Brakes in Penrose. Many old Holden parts in NZ are exorbitantly priced, I buy most of my Holden 6 bits from Australia. I've bought a lot of parts from these guys.... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-FRONT-Brake-Drum-Wheel-Cylinder-PAIR-EH-Wag-Ute-HD-HR-HK-HT-HG-26-98mm/273838515012?fits=Model%3AE+Series&hash=item3fc20c2344:g:uLwAAOSw6lVe6b82
  3. Great info there mate, this one needs to be pinned.
  4. LOL, I'd be taking Weber Specs comments with a grain of salt. They have a reputation for being somewhat.... ahem..... "opinionated" to say the least, (looks like they were angling to sell you a new 32/36?). I ran an XE Coon in the early 90's and the 34ADM on it started, idled and ran smoothly - a huge improvement on the stromberg carb on the XA Coon I'd had before. It's hard to escape that this has been a very common swap in Aussie for decades and most use the existing 'Coon jetting. Classic example from the GMH-Torana Forum - these guys know their stuff. http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/75566-weber-34-adm/
  5. Weber Specs charge like the proverbial wounded bull. Go and see Bruce Manon from Manon & Butler Motors in Barrys Point Rd Takapuna, IMOP hes one of the best Weber tuners in the country.
  6. I'd be asking these guys, they are set up to do custom work as well. http://www.znoelli.co.nz/
  7. sr2

    Mitch's 91 BMW R80

    Back to your knitting Nana please!
  8. sr2

    Power files

    Thanks mate, just bought one. Looks like good value for money.
  9. The modern 'Mastervac' style of booster (the XJ40 Hydraulic system is just a weird , overly complicated version of the same principal) is deliberately designed to be separate from the brake systems hydraulics to avoid complete loss of brakes in the event of booster failure. Its predecessor the 'Hydrovac' is easiest described as a 'hydraulic amplifier' that was plumbed in series with the master-cylinder, in the event of its failure (which wasn't unheard of) the result was a complete loss of brakes.
  10. The bleeding process you're describing is called 'surge bleeding'. It has it's uses but is prone to aerate the fluid, particularly if there is a considerable amount of air in the system (e.g. after replacing a major component) and far more likely to occur in an ABS system (there are a lot of small valves/orifices in there). Aerated brake fluid has had air dissolved in it under pressure (as opposed to air bubbles) and is your 'bleeding enemy' (apologies for the bad pun!). I'm in favor of a more gentle approach; release the bleed nipple with the pedal in the rest position (i.e. compensation port uncovered), have the 2nd man (or the Mrs) smoothly push the pedal to the floor, tighten the bleed nipple, release the pedal and allow to rest for a few seconds - repeat until fluid is clear of bubbles. The air should come out in bubbles, if the fluid looks frothy of milky you're aerating it and things will only get worse. Never re-use fluid when bleeding even if it is new and clean, always allow it to rest for a few days - it takes quite some time for the dissolved air to separate. I'm by no means an XJ40 expert (years since I've worked on one) but don't get sidetracked by the hydraulic booster, it only provides mechanical assistance to the pedal and is not connected to the hydraulics in the braking system. In essence it does the same job as a vacuum suspended mastervac. Hope this helps.
  11. LOL; I can't lay claim to that one but rest assured I share your pain!
  12. We probably need to agree to disagree on this one, I'm not sure what you mean by 'deadband'; if there is excessive pedal travel surely it should be addressed - not just disguised by fitting a larger diameter master cylinder? I originally worked for PBR in Australia in the late 70's and then set up booster repair centers and trained staff for APPCO Brake and clutch in the 80"s. After moving to more lucrative forms of employment I've spent over 25 years building and running competition cars and have been involved in designing and setting up and testing brake systems in multiple cars. Over all those years I have never seen an increase in master-cylinder displacement being touted as an improve all remedy?
  13. If you have an issue with too much pedal travel fitting a larger diameter master-cylinder is simply a shortcut fix to address the symptom rather than the underlying problem. If I may reiterate my previous post a Mastervac servo does not know what its connected to, a 17% increase in foot pressure will be noticeable.