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About sr2

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  • Birthday 02/08/1956

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    Music, Cars, bikes, boats, family, more family and good Bourbon.


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  1. Good to hear re the public liability insurance, it's becoming a minefield out there. The other one that's out there to trip you up is Worksafe who have been getting very aggressive - to say the least! (I've been working in the industry of late). I wouldn't be surprised if Worksafe classified you guys as PCBU's (I'm presuming you're not employees?),could be worthwhile checking what policy's re duty of care need to be in place.
  2. Hi mate, not trying to beat up the messenger (wouldn't want your job for all the tea in China!) but it does raise a question. I'm interested to know if you are given any specific guidelines or is the subjective "you can usually tell just from looking at something whether its shit or not" that you have to rely on? If so that's a huge amount of potential personal liability you have to shoulder and the obvious question is do you guys get any public liability cover?
  3. Yes you're correct. There are 3 different VH40 slave cylinder sizes, they all run the same 7 1/2 inch vacuum diaphragm. Smallest is the VH40EL at 9/16"; at 20' of vacuum it can produce 1825 PSI. Largest is the VH40D at 7/8"; at 20' of vacuum it can produce 840 PSI. Middle ground is the most common - VH40, VH40AJ, VH40AL, & VH40L; at 5/8" , at 20' of vacuum they can produce 1470 PSI. They are also fitted with simple and compound type control valves which vary the cracking pressure from 20 to 35 psi. The good new is that 9 times out of 10 it will be 5/8" bore, ther
  4. Sounds like they are in series, if so the 5 amp fuse won't protect anything. (i.e. the 2 amp fuse will always blow first!).
  5. I'm struggling to understand your question but with two unequal value fuses in series the lowest value will be the fuse that breaks the circuit and when in parallel it will be the highest.
  6. Thanks guys, sounds like it's as I suspected.
  7. Hi Guys, a quick question. I'm working on a brake & booster upgrade on a mates classic, a 318 VF Regal Coupe he's owned for 30 plus years - it's a babe! I'd like to use copper nickel brake lines (sometimes called cunifer or cupro-nickel) for their corrosion resistance and installed well they look heaps better than bundy tubing. Question is, I know its OK to use in Australia and I would be very surprised if it wasn't OK for NZ but is there any documentation available to confirm before I put a heap of time into making up new brake lines? Cheers, Si.
  8. You're not the first to have 'issues' with Autoblast. A good mate had an underbody blast & paint on his classic a year or so back. When the transmission shat itself a week later we discovered blasting media in the trans oil. Shortly after we discovered their "all care and no responsibility" policy!
  9. sr2

    FiTech EFI

    LOL, you may have a good point there! Luckily with the recent gun buyback by our glorious leader there are no irresponsible AR15 owners in NZ and all firewall penetration's are drilled to the correct diameter and fitted with the appropriate grommet! On a more serious note I have to admit that after 20 odd years of running Autronic ECU's in our competition cars the majority of failures have been from wiring issues i.e. vibration, heat, rubbing, chaffing etc.
  10. sr2

    FiTech EFI

    My 10 cents worth if I may. My brother runs the well-known (in Tarmac Rallying) Cheetah race car and yes there are a few decades of sibling rivalry between our two teams – you’ve got to keep these bloody older bro’s in their place! His current motor of choice is a 420 cubes plus Dart “small block” running AFR Heads with the best internals he can source. It’s cam’d to be a torque monster with the standard joke being that despite having a 6 speed Richmond behind it you only needs 2 gears for most Targa stages, it’s just simply buckets of useable power everywhere. Up until 18 months a
  11. I couldn't agree with you more mate; hard not to dispute that the NZ LVVTA 'old boys whiskey club' would be both loud and vocal in their objections. In my opinion if the ratio's & engineering (i.e. design, materials and construction) were of an acceptable standard the linkage would be no more complex than many production cars (the RHD E30 or Mk 1 Escort springs to mind).
  12. Am I right in presuming it's the L300 m/cyl?
  13. Sorry - I'm a little late to this thread I'd be wary of not having the compensation port at the highest point of the master-cylinder. In the years I spent in the industry I can only remember one OEM setup where this did not not apply - the very early vertically mounted 'tin type' mini was a dog in more ways than one, it was quickly replaced with a conventional setup. Yes if you bench bleed before installation (as you always should) there's every chance you'll get away with it but don't forget the compensation port is open to the atmosphere when the pedal is at rest effectively leav
  14. The new m/cyl looks great. Do me a favor and pull the mastervac check valve out, poke the longest finger (or didget!) you posses in there and let me know if there's any residual brake fluid there. if there is PM me and I'll talk you through a booster rebuild or you can bring it (and a bottle) to the world famous sr2 mancave in Milford and we'll do it in person.
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