sr2

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About sr2

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/08/1956

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    Male
  • Interests
    Music, Cars, bikes, boats, family, more family and good Bourbon.

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    Auckland

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  1. I'd be asking these guys, they are set up to do custom work as well. http://www.znoelli.co.nz/
  2. sr2

    Mitch's 91 BMW R80

    Back to your knitting Nana please!
  3. sr2

    Power files

    Thanks mate, just bought one. Looks like good value for money.
  4. The modern 'Mastervac' style of booster (the XJ40 Hydraulic system is just a weird , overly complicated version of the same principal) is deliberately designed to be separate from the brake systems hydraulics to avoid complete loss of brakes in the event of booster failure. Its predecessor the 'Hydrovac' is easiest described as a 'hydraulic amplifier' that was plumbed in series with the master-cylinder, in the event of its failure (which wasn't unheard of) the result was a complete loss of brakes.
  5. The bleeding process you're describing is called 'surge bleeding'. It has it's uses but is prone to aerate the fluid, particularly if there is a considerable amount of air in the system (e.g. after replacing a major component) and far more likely to occur in an ABS system (there are a lot of small valves/orifices in there). Aerated brake fluid has had air dissolved in it under pressure (as opposed to air bubbles) and is your 'bleeding enemy' (apologies for the bad pun!). I'm in favor of a more gentle approach; release the bleed nipple with the pedal in the rest position (i.e. compensation port uncovered), have the 2nd man (or the Mrs) smoothly push the pedal to the floor, tighten the bleed nipple, release the pedal and allow to rest for a few seconds - repeat until fluid is clear of bubbles. The air should come out in bubbles, if the fluid looks frothy of milky you're aerating it and things will only get worse. Never re-use fluid when bleeding even if it is new and clean, always allow it to rest for a few days - it takes quite some time for the dissolved air to separate. I'm by no means an XJ40 expert (years since I've worked on one) but don't get sidetracked by the hydraulic booster, it only provides mechanical assistance to the pedal and is not connected to the hydraulics in the braking system. In essence it does the same job as a vacuum suspended mastervac. Hope this helps.
  6. LOL; I can't lay claim to that one but rest assured I share your pain!
  7. We probably need to agree to disagree on this one, I'm not sure what you mean by 'deadband'; if there is excessive pedal travel surely it should be addressed - not just disguised by fitting a larger diameter master cylinder? I originally worked for PBR in Australia in the late 70's and then set up booster repair centers and trained staff for APPCO Brake and clutch in the 80"s. After moving to more lucrative forms of employment I've spent over 25 years building and running competition cars and have been involved in designing and setting up and testing brake systems in multiple cars. Over all those years I have never seen an increase in master-cylinder displacement being touted as an improve all remedy?
  8. If you have an issue with too much pedal travel fitting a larger diameter master-cylinder is simply a shortcut fix to address the symptom rather than the underlying problem. If I may reiterate my previous post a Mastervac servo does not know what its connected to, a 17% increase in foot pressure will be noticeable.
  9. Finally located your build thread, (love your sheet metal work by the way; being very average with bodywork I'd take my lathe over a hammer and dolly any day!). The difference between 3/4" and 13/16" is close to a 17% increase in bore size, i.e. swept displacement. As a rule of thumb you'd notice a harder pedal requiring more pressure but with less movement, in some applications not an issue but in others it could be a problem. It looks like you've chosen Dynalite calipers (?) for the front; they are a great value for money caliper and are aimed at street upgrades where in most cases the standard master-cylinder and rear brakes can be retained without compromising pedal travel/effort and most importantly brake bias. Good choice, interested to know what rotors are you running with them? Remember that a Mastervac style brake servo doesn't know what it's attached to, all it does is look at the linear compression on a synthetic reaction disk and adjust the amount of pedal assistance accordingly, rule of thumb is always a larger m/cyl = more pedal effort. My advice would be to look at retaining the 3/4" Master if at all possible, rule number one with brake mods has always been to only change one thing at a time. If due to economics or availability then take a leap of faith with the 13/16" but it will be a considerable change. Cool car, hockey stick mirrors rock! Edited to say I re-read you thread and picked up on the rotors.
  10. Had to settle for VHT Yellow; close but not the genuine Yella Terra Torana yellow. Only had some Chev orange rather than Holden ‘rocket red’ for the block but Rigamortice and myself are firmly of the opinion this motor is not an ornament; with a 3” bore, a 3” stroke and a historic 70’s heads to die for this classic 186 bitch needs to run!
  11. Hi mate - just had a big hunt through the HS6 spares bin. I’ve got 3 brand new ‘old stock’ that are waiting for a Holden Red 6 project (see and another rather worn out 3 that are waiting for me to buy a decent single phase mill for the legendary sr2 man cave; the intention is to convert the worn out HS6’s into ‘stealth injected’ throttle bodies (i.e. hidden fuel rails, injectors,…etc.) so I can eventually inject my favourite Red six while retaining the ‘sucky noise’ and the sexy visuals of 3x 1¾ “ SU’s).I do however have enough 2nd hand bits to put together a carb for you; no expense mate, full respect for your project – I’m a sucker for clever and innovative solutions for problems that never existed in the first place! We’ll just have to wait for this damn level 4 lockdown to be over. One proviso however is that it will be a mismatched collection of bits with flogged out throttle spindle bushes (the Achilles heel of the SU), they are expensive to refurbish. Out of the square all I can think of is injection, injection, injection,… A few years back I got roped into helping with a carb to TBI conversion on a Holden Red powered, (there’s a familiar ring here) & seriously out there Series 2? Landy bush- truck. The idea was to fit an EA single point injection with a Link ERCU calling the shots. (I mentioned this in another thread so apologies if I repeat myself). The Achilles heel of the EA single point injection was the archaic Denso ECU, the actual throttle body setup wasn't bad at all. I fitted one a few years back to a Holden Red powered Landrover bush truck with an early Link (fuel only). I did however have access to someone familiar with Link ECU’s who provided a wiring diagram and did the tune (I did all the plumbing, wiring and fabrication). The EA TBI comes with a built in fuel pressure regulator and throttle position sensor and from memory all we used was a map sensor, lambda, inlet temp and a simple rpm feed from the distributor. The improvement in power, cold starting, idling & economy were hard to ignore. I got the idea from a 13 year old post about fitting a similar setup (with a Megasquirt ECU) to a petrol powered landcruiser. The beauty of the EA single point injection throttle body is that you can run it downdraft, sidedraft or even updraft and it won’t know the difference! http://www.mq-patrol.com/wiki/engine-p40/efi-conversion/ The big thing you’d have access to is the experts on the Oldschool ‘DIY Fuel injection thread’, I sure those guys could help?
  12. Good point, there's also a few Aussie released cars that ran side-draft Strombergs?
  13. I'll have a look over the weekend, may have to wait for the level 4 lock-down to end before sending.
  14. I've got a collection of HS6 carbs (they look sooooo good on a Holden 6!). I can have a look and possibly will have a spare you could grab. Where are you?