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About sr2

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  • Birthday 02/08/1956

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    Music, Cars, bikes, boats, family, more family and good Bourbon.


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  1. Love the project. I think your choice of the Hiace drive-train is a great way of adding some life to the old girl without needing extensive suspension, rear end and braking mods. It also keeps the option of converting back to standard when we're all dead and gone, everything's electric and the old Thames ends up in a museum! I ran a few 80's Hiaces some years back, the running gear was virtually indestructible and they had great pulling power for their day.
  2. The standard wiring will be more than adequate. Remember that when running without a ballast the ignition will be receiving approx double the voltage hence a reduction in the amps you'll be drawing. (i.e. watts = volts x amps). It's another reason why HEI coils run cooler and don't necessarily need oil cooling.
  3. Right here we go. I’m not giving you the ultimate performance package I’m just suggesting an option which will give the 'Mighty' standard (ish) Holden Red easier starting, better fuel economy, smoother running and a bit more power (especially with a set of headers). And it will fit under a standard air cleaner to keep the natives confused! Step 1: Find a second hand 9 port aftermarket inlet manifold designed to run a twin choke 350 Holley. They are cheap and there’s heaps out there but don’t be tempted to try the 350 Holley on a Red six. It’s a prick of a combination that eats gas and requires constant tinkering , believe me I’ve tried!. (Hunt around and you’ll find a manifold for under $100). Step 2: Find a 28/36 DCD Weber carb, they are very common and were fitted to 1500 Cortina’s (yes!) BMW 202’s hot Escorts,…etc. Don’t be fooled by the smaller motors they came out on A 28/36 will flow to approx. 270 CFM (a 179 at 5K uses 258 CFM), they run sweet on most motors with little or no re-jetting and the smaller primary delivers smooth low speed running and greatly improved economy. (Carb should cost about $80). Step 3: Get the cordless drill out and re-tap to make the stud pattern fit the Weber, bolt it up, fit fuel, vacuum and acc. linkage and give it the jandal! A few final notes: · A little cutting and welding (or creative pop-riveting) and the EH air cleaner base plate can be made to fit, at a casual glance the whole lot will still look bog standard. · There is a 32/36 DCD Weber out there that will do a similar job, (Looks the same). · The Weber 34 ADM carb of an XE Falcon is another (and slightly higher flowing) option but you’ll need to run the Falcon air cleaner (that will really keep the natives confused!). · Even the mankiest DCD out there can usually be resurrected with a strip, clean and gasket set. Throttle spindles usually show little or no wear and they are a joy to work on. (See my build thread, there’s a few pictures there). · If your aftermarket manifold comes with water heating, don’t be put off. Despite a cold intake charge being desirable the raise in temperature helps the atomized fuel avoid condensing on the longer uneven length runners resulting in more uniformed fuel distribution (i.e. the advantage outweigh the disadvantage). · I have seen standard alloy red manifolds with a plate welded to it filed and drilled to fit a Weber – could be a cheap option if you have access to aluminium welding? · The only Holley I’ve had running well on a Red Six was a 4 barrel 390 – with progressive chokes like the DCD.
  4. You'l love the improvement; let me know if you need a simple carb hack that will still fit under the standard air-cleaner.
  5. I've run both on Holden 6's and to be honest haven't found a difference between the two. Just be remember that the coils designed to be run with points are different to those intended to be run with HEI, (If you are converting to HEI on a standard EH (?) you'll need to remove the external ballast).
  6. Nah mate, they look like a work of art to me. 20 plus years of building and running competition cars and I still insist on hubcentric rims or spacers.
  7. Dropped the head off at a local reconditioners for a leisurely soak in the cleaning bath and a very light skim (I suspect 3 & 4 cylinders had been talking to each other). Have to say I was blown away with how good a condition it was in once all the damn black rich running carbon had been dissolved. Cleaned the valves and gave them a light lap. Enlisted the help of an “Oldschool Holden Spring Compressor” I had lying around which made light work of the double valve springs and all it needs now is a fresh coat of the obligatory “Torana Yellow” paint.
  8. That about sums it up. I think he was pissed with people asking him on his auction if it was a YT, he'd convinced himself it wasn't and was sticking to his guns!
  9. Time to strip the head down. Suddenly I realised I’d lent my valve spring compressor to that guy we all know who never has his own tools (and we always forget his name), who never returns tools……….grrrrrrr! As I’ve said before, combining the lack of an appropriate tool with a good mig welder and the obligatory collection of scrap steel under the work bench is the mother of many a good man-cave invention. Found an old screw Clamp…a bit of cutting and welding. A lick of paint…….. And the custom (i.e. beer, bullshit & bad manners) “Oldschool Holden Valve Spring Compressor” makes its debut.
  10. Tophats are fitted to rotors with a cap screw and a lock-nut, usually a distorted thread type or similar due to the high temperatures involved. In 22 years of motor racing I've yet to see one come loose. If one ever did you'd notice through the steering wheel very quickly, I don't think you have a safety issue there. The main thing I would be concentrating on would be that your tophat was hub-centric on the hub and the rim was hub-centric on either the tophat or the hub.
  11. The "adaptor' is called a tophat, as a rule of thumb they are usually fitted with 6,8 or 10 bolts. As long as it's not a floating setup 6x 6mm is fine, the torque is not transmitted through the shear of the bolts it's transmitted through the friction from the two surfaces being clamped together. Nothing wrong with the tie wire's at all (everything on a race car tries to undo itself!). By the look of the radial surface cracks they've done some work and had some heat in them.
  12. I’d been keeping any eye on a bloke in Whangerai who had been trying to sell a 186 on TM while doing his damndest to scare off any potential buyer by abusing anyone who had the audacity to ask a question on his auction. God I love those grumpy old traders! He was insisting that someone had painted the standard head yellow and refused to post any pictures of the inlet ports. After some months of his relisting I finally put the poor deluded old sod out of his misery by buying it for $300. An early 2-hour drive had me rolling down his driveway at 8 am in the morning, one look at the inlet ports confirmed it had at least a stage 2 Yellow Terra head. When I suggested that as an honest principled rogue, I felt a moral obligation to throw a little more coin in the pot he started accusing me of being a ‘lying young upstart that was talking through a hole in his f***ing head’. As I beat a hasty retreat up the driveway waiting for him to set the dogs on me (with the booty in the back of the van) I had to admit that at 63 years of age, despite the verbal tirade it was great to be called ‘young’ – ya gotta love those grumpy old guys! Couldn’t wait for to to get the head off but work pressure had me waiting for the weekend. As I said in the 1st post of this thread ‘sometimes you just get lucky’ - I stuck it in the engine stand, flipped its lid off and discovered a rather virgin stage 3 Yella Terra covered with the type of carbon that only prolonged over rich running can ever produce. Double valve springs and classic 70’s inlet porting. And just relish in the vintage YT valves! Once cleaned up the flat top 30 thou over pistons felt firm in the bore so Rigamortice and I made the call that we’ll clean up the head, sort out the appropriate sump/pickup combo and see how it runs.
  13. Thought it was time to clean up Rigamortice’s vintage Kel-Co manifold to get the DCD Weber back where it belongs. Couldn’t resist the temptation to cut off unwanted bits, file off casting marks and give it a blast in the new blasting cabinet (only a baby one but all I have is 12 cfm). Have to say I was pleased with the results. I’d been thinking about building an engine start-up cradle for a while, found some old castors, raided the obligatory under bench scrap steel pile and started cutting and welding,……… and cutting and welding,……. Once again happy with the end result, particularly the “Hillbilly headers” fabricated from parts saved from the rubbish bin. I just had to incorporate the “inglorious welding” I found on an old muffler! And how could you not love the 1950’s JAP fuel tank. As an added bonus you can even run motors up on it! (My favourite Torana 2850cc 9 port, stock standard but what little rever – Brock discovered them before anyone else). First 2850 start-up on the new cradle
  14. As those who are more familiar with us will know both Rigamortice and myself have a great affinity for the environment and take climate change (i.e. the thing we used to “call global warming” before it got cold again!) very seriously. Stricken by remorse and overwhelmed by guilt over the tons of negative carbon credits I’ve released on the global economy through years of motor racing, driving cars for the love of it, and behaving like a typically irresponsible older ‘Oldschool’ member I have acquired an EV! You may scoff at the fact that it’s a clapped out old warehouse sweeper with buggered batteries saved from the scrap heap but to Rigamortice and myself it is a powerful symbol of our indefatigable commitment to a green and politically correct future. With help from my brother providing advice, encouragement and the Wild Turkey may I present the definitive green, negative carbon credit, EV solution to taking the wheelie bins out when you live down a long driveway, (what could possibly go wrong!). Commentary and camera work courtesy of the ever lovely Mrs sr2.