mjrstar

Generally there should be 12v at the injector with the ignition on and they are fired by pull to ground through the ecu. So maybe find the positive side, and see if it has volts back to an engine or body earth. I haven't followed this too closely, but are the injectors good known units from a running car. It is possible to 'varnish' or crud up the injectors if the were the ones sitting for years from the wrecker motor? Does tacho come off the stop when cranking, if so I'd shelve other work on the dizzy etc.. Wife's old corolla I didn't know had an immobiliser, it looked like a boring old black key with no buttons or anything on it. I had a spare key cut that turned out to be good for unlocking the door and making the engine turn over. Hence suggesting about the key thing. /put some petrol in it. Or you have missed an earth terminal off under the manifold near the starter motor.

Wife had one of those for a few years, great car, they have rfid or whatever in the key and will turn over with dead/broken key but not start.. Otherwise power feed / fuse for the injectors would be where I would start. Most likely with a screwdriver on the injectors to listen to them click or volt meter to see them energized. I know little of the automatics but I would suspect that it wouldn't turn over at all if the inhibitor switch wasn't met. / put some petrol in it.

You re-make a nicer looking version of those plastic push in bits out of aluminum with a dash fitting jammed on the top. I had after posting considered the o-ring option Richie von Snoozin suggests which I think could well be a nice addition.

Assuming you are only looking for the look of stainless braid rather than any performance gain on the non pressurized side, you'd probably get away with some rubber lined stainless braided hose and clamps. Personally I'd run a rubber hose for this application and call it job done. Another option would be a machined stub that presses in with the - 3an or whatever nipple you desire threaded /welded to that, perhaps cooled slightly to make it an interference fit on installation.

Maybe not so much for a road car but one thing that intrigued me for a rwd race car like a starlet or escort would be to drop in a sprint car style quick change rear end.. There will be a reason I haven't thought of why this is a dumb idea, but man you can pour some cash into shortening an oem diff if you are outsourcing all the work.

Sweet, I thought you might get away with the shorter easier to find axle?

Does a 6 stud to 4 stud hubcentric bolt on adapter solve your problem? That's what I did on my kp with hilux diff. I used a land cruiser disc and rx7 caliper in the braking department then used 2 left hand side r30 skyline handbrake cables.

Greetings fine sir, Probably a dumb question, but do you run clamps on the push lock fittings? I originally didn't when I first started playing with push lock stuff but I do now... There are a few options like a single use crimp style or these clip type ones I have as snipped below..

Great progress, I don't have much to add but I found installation and removal of the bitch pin (shift linkage roll pin) on my b series honda was easiest with a small g-clamp and a torx bit that would locate down into the pin..I taped a socket to the g clamp foot for the pin to exit in to.. Also don't overtighten the through bolt for the gear lever where it attaches to the shift linkage..

Input signal will be the same, I run an eg ecu, in my EK with dc2 engine and an Ep3 instrument cluster. It's all electrical Lego.

Also Ling, my Honda yesterday over about 2min 45 seconds at Golden cross hillclimb. Rpm plus iat and speed. Also I have a pair of used 225 45 15 nankang ar1 for free if you want them.

Reads a little high on the top end, like passed 9000rpm maybe where 9200 would hand out if it existed, and my data log would show more like 8950..

I have the digital output from my ek civic ecu, tacho is probably within about 300 rpm I reckon.

Interesting, I saw that thing in an earlier picture but assumed it was just a cover thingee.

I threw those bits away(they only bolt on) and stitched on some box section with captive nuts. Cheaper and better than me trying to find replacement bits and then them breaking.

Hang on a second I thought I was the plasma man. Can there be more than one?

What's the deal with the massive hole in the inlet manifold? Is it some oil breather type thing?

Along similar lines but maybe build a massive g clamp out of scrap steel an pull against the far side of the engine? Or a bolted plate to something solid on the engine..

Careful on the bigger front bar. My mx5 had snapped the tinware (lightweight folded section) that the shackles bolt to.

I have had a set of second hand bc's in my hillclimb civic for ~40 events now. They have had a bit of a beating and are holding up well, only thing is with my weight reduction I have to run the rears on pretty much the softest setting, and I swapped to a softer rear spring. Would buy again for the price. Take that TOTP / no context.

Nah not on top of the bead, just nicely snugged in behind it. Worm clamp will get a more even clamping force over those t bolt style which seem to pinch.

In my experience your leaks would disappear if you threw away those cool looking clamps and just used budget worm clamps. The t-bolt clamps can work OK-ish when you gave a barb or bead to shoulder to snug up against but seem to be near useless when clamping over a bit of parallel tube.

D series honda and 1ggte also run 75mm pistons. / spam

What you are saying is that you have the parts to do a K swap yeah?

I have been using these for a few years now : https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802342-StartingLine-Gravity-Spray/dp/B000KSTFJO Which have given me pretty decent results. Small gun was handy for hard to reach areas such as the rollcage too.