mjrstar

The "full" mark is for when the engine is at operating temp? Is the cap on the expansion tank allowing air back in during cool-down to replace the volume of coolant headed back to the radiator?

I'd say the results of elevating the expansion tank would be negligible. Is the filler neck definitely compatible with the cap? Also when cold there is not really a requirement to have a huge amount of excess coolant in your expansion tank, its possible now that you have a larger volume of coolant you need to either start your expansion tank level off much lower when cold or run a larger expansion vessel..

Sounds like its not consistent pulling back from the expansion tank. I would look at the radiator cap seal and any potential for loss of suck from the vent hose when cooling down. The first thing i would do is carefully mark the expansion tank level when 100% cooled down and see if it returns to that level after a heat cycle.

Trans cooler /heater probably...

I was thinking last night with the brick shape of the truck you might actually have negative pressure at that side grille. You could try just reversing the fans as is to draw air from the underbody and punch it out the side grille (maybe minus the flutes). Pretty simple trial.

The fan(s) will be significantly more efficient as a push setup than a pull, especially as ram air effect pretty much doesn't exist in your case. Grab an a4 piece of paper and block off 1/2 the fan on the suction side.. Then try and do the same on the discharge! When you restrict the suction side even a little bit (with a radiator matrix) the efficiency drops off dramatically. The fans will likely be a litte louder when setup to push though. You could also consider a sandwiched setup with one push and one pull if that helped with packaging.. If you are stuc

I assume there is at least one push fan we can't see? EDIT: yip i see your reply.. I feel there is not sufficient positive air pressure on the 'in' side of the radiator to force the air to turn 90 degrees with any sort of vigour.. I would tape some icecream container or similar bits to the side flutes to better catch/direct air and see if it makes any difference. Then send the info to @roman to graph for us. Also a pull fan is always going to be a bit meh without a full shroud as it will want to spill/ drag the easy air from the area at the blade tips.

Oh hey are these windscreen banners an actual thing? Asking for a friend of course not to go on my Pos racecivic.

Oh hey, I had a mission on a Ford territory a while ago, with a pile of fault codes.... It ended up being an intermittent voltage drop across the relay which fed the ecu.. Luckily the electric window relay was interchangeable.. Something to consider..

Seems pretty light, my ek civic with not much interior, and a die cast aluminium engine block is 990kg. Although there is a few bits of rollcage materials I guess.

There are Honda guys running big vtec eliminator cams and they do see decent gains with a well sorted ITB setup. Which would closely replicate your wild 4age!

I don't like your chances of getting enough wrap on the crank pulley, and if you can the belt life is going to be compromised. Well unless you shifted the power steer to where the dizzy is.. I would multi belt that setup with one belt for alt, and water pump and one for the p/s.

Vise grips on the stem then whatever size 1/4 drive socket as that valve cap has / had a hex. You may be able to salvage the stem..

Aah yes vision, I have a wheelchair spec agm vision battery for my Starlet, it must be 6 or 7 years old and cheap as chips, it performs well.. I have this one in my mx5, it could be my install or cabling, but it's a little bit weak in my opinion.. https://yhipower.co.nz/catalog/vision---hp-102378.htmx?selectedProduct=856

If you have no parasitic load and a car you don't use regularly (like a race car with an isolator) the likes of a shorai are great.. I have one in my honda. Easily 3 months of ignoring the car and it'll fire up.. For a daily drive with stereo or alarm I would steer clear, due to the risk of bricking an expensive battery with a deep discharge...

Pretty sure airbox (maybe wheelie bin) on the end of trumpets ( I'm thinking those road cones you threw into the paddock) should net around 200kw.. This has been cool to watch / read, and the road cones showed real potential but then fell very sharply. I was sure they were going to punch a new all time high number..

There only looks to be the inhibit switch (probably a separate position switch that was on the selector mechanism) and a 7.5a fuse in the start / crank circuit. There is also the main efi relay for the likes of energising the ecu and fuel pumps etc.. But it should crank (but not fire) without this main relay energised.

You are obviously a smart cookie, as far as upping the boost, there is potentially an easy/ cheap option by fitting an external spring on the waste gate actuator.. So long as the diaphragm has the grunt to overcome the spring. This is effectively kind of like taking apart an external gate and swapping in a heavier spring.. The other option is to take it for a gentle drive with the waste gate actuator hose removed, this sounds like a disaster waiting to happen on a small capacity petrol but on the big diesel donk with that size turbo free boost may not be that bad.. It m

Take it for a quick drive with the alternator disconnected, and a good fully charged battery. That should confirm if the ecu is telling lies.

Yeah energy suspension has a full bush kit for all suspension arms at a reasonable price.. Ex usa The ones on my car were actually not too bad so may have already been replaced but did the re-bush anyway..

Check out the floppy diff mounts when you have it jacked up for the clutch replacement.. I don't know much about the oem running gear but did note the diff mounts on mine at 336,000km were pretty poked, and did not help with the gearbox shift quality, as 3rd gear wasn't where you left it when on/off the throttle.. /time for a 4g63t

I only have them in one size, and I don't think the gas flow is quite as well optimised as a conventional cup. Ideal for aluminium where you need minimal stick out, and to be honest I'll often just leave them on for stainless etc..

This will be the bit I was looking at, and scratching my head. Ididn't think about a long downhill, I assumed it was all idle.. It might be worth reviewing the fuel cut on over-run to see if its enabled, and maybe switch it off for a test..

Sounds like it could be a vct tuning error, my tuned xr6t is well on song at 2200rpm, an will happily pull the trailer with racecar up the bombays in 6th at 1500rpm.

I can email @Roman the converted Csv files if required..