mjrstar

Does it have a coolant passage through the throttle body?

If you want to run that butterfly thing, just bore a hole / holes in the butterfly and have either open /closed.

Great progress! This may not be all that relevant, but I have found on my Honda due to the way its used, there is far more side loading on the exhaust from cornering forces than vertical load from its own weight. This is something that wouldn't be a problem for a road car, but for a track machine you don't want to underestimate how much side to side loading will be applied. / like sheepers says get version 1 up and running with whatever stock body mounts you have then fine tune it down the track.

Probably a dumb question, but have you checked pressures on the newly fitted tyres? Tyre shop will often leave pressure very high when I get tyres done.. They'd need to be within a few psi to keep the system happy. not just flat, for example the system may be unhappy with 2 tyres at 40 psi and the other 2 at 32 psi.

I'm probably going to suggest not to sand blast, especially if the material is porous as it can lead to contamination, maybe give it a good heat up with a heat gun to see if you can bleed out any nasties..

Sweet as, do you need regulator & flow meter too? I have just rangi'd up a tacking band to suit 3" for you to use so that better be your exhaust tube size..

I would get the bits as clean as you can, including a good scrub with some solvent. Then find a fabricator / someone that have a crack at it with aluminum tig. It is at least pretty thick so there is a decent chance of a successful repair.

If its not too far out of your way you can come & grab my bottle if you want, I probably have a handful of 3 inch pie cuts you can have too.

This has had a replacement engine yeah? I'd be checking front knuckle wiring wherever it terminates back to the body if it's been apart for axle removal etc..

Oooh I wonder if the coil stalks are the same length on different engines, might be able to extend the spring a little if the spark is having to take a jump to get to the plug.

I'd check the fuel rail for internal corrosion, if the car has a stock fuel rail which isn't anodised inside and has been run on ethanol it can cause pretty nasty corrosion and a partial blockage. I have seen a single piston meltdown in an evo caused by this. The piston has been torched somehow, and the edge of the valve recess is most prone due to material thickness, as mentioned before the head was pulled. So at some stage in its life that cylinder has seen more air (or more likely less fuel) than its other 5 Brothers. What you don't know is when this was.. First up is get yourself 6 milk bottles and take a leaf out of @Roman 's fuel injector science (cool idea) to rule out fuel delivery in its current condition. Does the car run ballast resistor for injectors? As dodgy impedance across one of those would affect duty cycle.

The clock spring in my EK was a pretty fragile ribbon cable sort of thing, that's the first place I would look. We'll that any any other yellow (or was it orange) electrical plug you might have played with.

I would say over 5hrs of weld time depending on preferred flow rate.

How much gas do you think you'll use? Bunnings argoshield / mig gas was popular here, personally I run a 5kg owner bottle co2 for mig, and an F size ezyswap argon on my TIG ..

Good point, hadn't considered that but would be worthwhile.

OEM likely to be pretty meh at the rpm's you are talking... Quick Google suggests options for supra v series and Toyota c series. But nothing obvious for t or j. Maybe h pattern dog box is the option. https://www.jackstransmissions.com/transmission-parts/v160-supra-parts/1-6-carbon-fiber-synchro-set-v160

Is there a carbon synchro upgrade available?

Clutch friction plate mass. My old evo freshly built box simply would not shift at high rpm,it had the "big" evo 9 clutch and flywheel. (junk) The less work the synchro has to do (by changing speed of clutch friction plate between gears) the quicker you will be able to rip a gear.. The other thing that helps is closer ratios - same deal, synchro is going less wok as the rpm change between gears is less.. So many people overlook the ability to rip gears at high rpm in thier race cars.. It's critical in my opinion. I run dual cone carbon synchros in my Honda box, coupled with a lightweight friction plate and close gearset, and it's at the point where people ask if it's running a sequential box, it's just so fast. Someone like ATS will a carbon clutch, which is basically a carrier hub, then a sheet of carbon with a spline inside it as the friction plate. Ultimate lightweight..

Have you actually taken a radiator temperature? If the radiator isn't scorching hot then airflow isn't the issue. Mates old lotus 7 replica thing had hot engine, but you could touch the radiator, so was clearly a coolant flow issue not an air flow issue.

^^it is starting to look like sheepers prediction, or maybe a bit of piston melting near the valve recess edge. Put air down the spark plug hole, with valves on compression stroke, see if air comes out the crankcase breathers or manifold.

To build an ap4 spec car you'd be throwing away a lot of the gr yaris, guards, suspension, gearbox, diff , axles, brakes, interior etc.. So perhaps it does?

I guess that'll be why he's still in the evo at the nzrc events.

Oh yeah look at all those doors! My mistake. I only caught the back half of the conversation at a recce for a rally stage a couple of months ago (he was running his evo at that event) , but I think it is destined for 3 cylinder treatment down the track?

Maybe he needs to send it to garage 4age and get some turbo delete and a 16v head with patented peach can or noodle induction system? Sure it's a 20v but I would hoon though..

Unless you are a very quick learner I'd suggest that a first attempt at aluminum tig on a radiator with made from scratch tanks, variations in thickness and the slightest pinhole likely to cause a major irritation is going to be tricky to say the least! Best of luck for whichever route you choose.