kpr

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kpr last won the day on June 22 2015

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About kpr

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    Dr Dolittle of 4age

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  1. kpr

    kpr's kp60

    kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string
  2. The hydramat seems to work amazing. But wouldn't bother doing both, either just run a hydramat in stock tank, maybe with some fuel foam. or do a good drop section or surge tank. which ever is cheapest / easiest. The hydramats are pretty pricey, but worth looking at if it makes your life easier
  3. Tested plenum on kp, looses power with side panel on. after cutting stuff up, seems taper tubes or slot aren't a restriction, as does the same with them removed. have come to conclusion kp engine doesn't like a plenum, or at least one this size. possibly the bellmouths need more space to the roof of plenum. either way cant do much about it. so going to weld it up and see what it does on hilux got bit more done on throttles, bosses welded on vac rail. Throttle plates etc modified and back in. linkage rail re-drilled. pretty much everything needs modifying / butchering to get the throttles close enough together. Found a plug on aliepress that vaguely sounded like the right one for the tps. after a few dollars and the usual wait it actually fits Dug out this smaller 55amp alternator, fits on current lower bracket, will fit up close to block once have added more adjustment to top bracket. Was pretty toasted, so chucked some new parts at it. Never really attempted to rebuild an alternator before, was pretty easy Even found a sightly bigger pulley in my pile of junk alternators,
  4. Any suggestions for a AC DC Tig, around the 200amp mark. willing to spend up to about 3k for a decent machine. Currently have and old 160amp mitech ac/dc/plasma. its getting pretty tired and need more power for ali welding.
  5. Spent another day machining stuff. Finished tapered tubes. Machined more off the back of trumpets, as was pointless weight. Made some bosses to make a new vac chamber which sits on the under side of the throttles. Cant use plastic bmw one (in bottom picture) since have moved the throttles closer together
  6. Got another throttle body adapter plate made in ali this time, thanks to @Stu . Plus some more throttles, which still need more mods, but done enough for test fitting. Been working through some clearance issues. chopped up and shortened water outlet as fouls on the front throttle, it welded horrible because old cast ali, but should be good enough. alternator is in the way, think have a solution sorted with a smaller alt and modding the bottom water pipe so it sits closer to the block. Blah, pictures:
  7. kpr

    kpr's kp60

    conclusion: bmw throttles make no more power. injectors in bmw throttle instead of head, no change. have revised throttle linkage setup. still not as good as the setup on the 20v throttles, but a whole lot better But have gone with this setup as it heat soaks less. both the throttles and the fuel rail are isolated from the head, with a thermal gasket and 25mm bit of plastic. should be bit more consistent, since hot air and fuel suck Also found that cylinder 1 was running a touch leaner than the rest, after checking afr per cylinder. so have added a fuel trim to add a bit more fuel on cyl 1,
  8. Made a start on the plenum I tested the trumpets on the starlet. red line is straight pipe the same length as the bellmouths (blue). Pretty much no difference till airflow demand is high. after that the bellmouths win. Down on power about 10kw to what starlet makes due to runner length. Some goose put a massive suspension tower in the way, so stuck with this length on the hilux
  9. just using short silicone hose on my na setup, works fine. will do the same on this missing the hose clamps in this pic
  10. If you like a sloppy mess
  11. Why are the starlet itb's in this thread? Because the the inlet manifold on the hilux sucks. Not power wise, it seems to work good. but it vibrates, cracks and the big plenum doesn't work with what im trying to do. stalls out easy and any kind of cam setup other than factory, even cam timing changes on stock cams makes it a whole lot worse. wont idle on all cylinders and stalls real easy. not ideal for 4wding itb's will solve the big plenum issue, also will be able to isolate the plenum from the engine with some short silicone joiners. to solve any vibration issues. So had those bellmouths in above picture from another project, recycling; extended them by welding some thick wall tube onto the bottom machined a taper into them to suit the 52mm throttles and slightly adjusted the bellmouth so has bit more of an elliptical shape. machined some of the excess off them. could have taken whole lot more off but was over it by this stage. will probably test them on the starlet before welding them into plenum
  12. kpr

    kpr's starlet

    @Truenotch Filter vs no filter. cant remember which one is which, but yeh zero loss @Roman red is my normal cam timing. blue is the inlet cam retarded 8 degrees. had a play with the exhaust cam. advanced it 5 deg, then another 5deg. pretty much no change other than a few bumps here and there. maybe slightly better all round with my normal setup, but seems pretty numb to changes. my normal settings im maxed out on both cams, any further pistons will eat valves i do have a vibration issue with either a wheel or wack axle that screws with the dyno and gives inconsistent results, right up top at around 180k i need to fix. / start running it up in a lower gear.
  13. kpr

    kpr's starlet

    from the cam timing testing ive done (need to revisit on dyno) can get pretty aggressive on the overlap, inlet advance and exhaust retard. gain a stack of power everywhere usable under peak, with minimal if any loss in peak power . side effect being power drops fairly fast after peak as can see in my dyno sheets. going the other way it will try hold onto that peak power for another 500rpm or so. Inlet had most effect. exhaust done similar but maybe only half or less effect so yeh pretty much nothing new there ^ . if you have vvti /vvt you can have your cake and eat it too. many years ago i attempted to retrofit a vvt pulley off a 20v onto a 16v, its possible but gave up on the idea.
  14. kpr

    kpr's starlet

    I heard muttering in the pits that the resonant frequency of the 20v's effects the timing gear, resulting in inaccurate time slips. the smoke theory does make more sense
  15. kpr

    kpr's starlet

    while we are on the subject, remember that time at meremere a NA 16v beat a turbo 20v. @Stu