kpr

such update

you mean this one

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1o7qb07Phu7HxqyE9XOgbre_5yKalDwV7 well that doesn't embed - video of said car doing dyno run ^

Gates is garbage

Pretty sure they have an oil cooler on it. this one had some kind of aftermarket sump also. Their other car runs a stock engine, but doesn't look like i saved any logs off that one. Increasing the relief pressure doesn't seem like it would make it hold pressure longer.

peaks at 74psi, drops to 66psi at 8500rpm. This is off one with aftermarket cams, unsure if stock oil pump. is the only one i can find a log off i would expect be lower over all once got some more oil temp in it. is only 75c in this log. Is only 1psi in it between 8000 and 8500rpm, so isn't falling off a cliff

How much does the oil pressure drop in the top end? have noticed the ones ive tuned the drop a little up top, but nothing to significant. usually limit them to low 8000rpm and seem to survive a 6 hour lemons race. may have some link logs have saved off dyno runs, can look if your interested

Forgot to say; for reference, without the cam belt on you should be able to move the vvti pulley by hand very easily. first few times through its travel will push the oil out. but if binds up before coming to a hard stop, loosen the bolts off and slowly tighten them up a bit at a time, while moving the pulley back and forward. should move 30 deg as you say (60 crank degrees)

have a tune here off a running vvti 2jz, vvti offset 172 and trigger offset 200. I would be double checking the cam timing isn't a tooth out. when setting vvti offset, try set it a number or 2 higher than what its reporting in the cam angle test. as it can walk a bit. once you get it working log the vvti target vs the vvti position. Put zero in the vvti target map. if the position is hanging higher than the target when target is zero, you can wind the offset back. but keep it reading a touch above zero. as can get unhappy if the cam angle trys to go below zero

Actual shitcunt

There are a couple ways to do it. Jz engines run a missing tooth crank trigger wheel and 3 tooth wheel on the cam with vvti. this works long as the swing of the vvti doesnt go through the missing gap on crank trigger wheel. so the 2 sensors do both the injection/igntion etc and vvti. Oher stuff like honda k series run a trigger wheel on crank and a one the non vvti exhaust cam. which does the injection/igntion. then they have another sensor on the vvti inlet cam, for the vvti cam position. so is 3 sensors i run a 3 sensor setup on mine

Feeding the oil to the vvt/i pulley from the solenoid is probably the biggest hurdle. adapting pulleys to a vvti pulley is a decent amount of work, depending what parts you can find that play happy with each other, but not a huge deal if you can machine stuff. If running vvti you will need cam position sensors and trigger wheels on the cams themselves . if running a basic vvt system these arent required. Personally i probably wouldn't attempt it on your engine configuration. having the exhaust cam driven off the intake just adds to the above. making an engine swap a whole lot easier job even if you are attached to you current setup. Also as above. if the stock cams are quite small wont be a big amount to gain. if can combine with bigger cams it allows for gains while retaining a nice running engine for example this is my 4age with little stock cams and vvti. only small gains to be had fixed timing vs vvti same engine with 284/278 cams

Can you do drive through on the fries ?

Yeah hilux is setup to have the widest powerband possible, rather than huge numbers. it maxes the 2860 out pretty easy. havent have a 2860 and g25 on same engine. but the g25 looks to come on 500rpm or so later than a 2860. with the vvti and different cam combo i was able to get the 2860 to come on 600rpm sooner. so should be able to get the g25 to come on like a 2860 on a normal 4age. probably even better since is more of a feat to pull the boost threshold down from 4000rpm to 3400rpm. than it is from 4500 to 4000. since 4ages dont really do much down there. So having something that will come on sub 4000rpm and easy make 300kw, would be weapon in an ae86. cool thing is, since it will be happy to make the power at high rpm, can run a boost ramp to make big power up top, while keeping the cylinder pressures down. long as the maxchinarods stay in the block rpm wise, decent power wont be that taxing on the engine