kpr

So turns out after talking to another injector supplier, bosch dont group the injectors by colour anymore. If that means they make them more even now, or they just cut costs and dont bother at all, i dont know. so old mate was selling old stock. annd my plan to buy more yellow ones was a fail. So was either buy a flow matched set and waste 400 bucks worth of injectors. or test everything i had and hope for the best. which i done the latter. ended up with; 4x lower flowing set, with 1.5% difference - now in trueno 4x higher flowing set with 2.6% difference - now in starlet. the old grouping in the starlet was basically the same % Not terrible, the 2 red still the highest flowing but they come together fairly close at low duty. At 100duty they are all over the shop. so just flowed them where they will be used Back 1 million years ago i put a wideband in each cylinder in the starlet. the front cylinder was leanest and 4 was richest. I have no idea if it was even running these injectors back then, or if cyl1 just gets more air. but i'm now running the injectors in order, most flow number 1 least 4. Anyway, trueno. It runs now. gearbox seems to be leaking out the front which is super annoying. as its a complete dick to get in and out of the car and i hate mechanicing. I didn't notice it until drove it about 10m to the dyno. Will run it up to see if everything else works before pulling it apart / hope it self heals Exhaust is quiet and runs like a nana for having 300deg cams. so thats a win

Yeah 5g is worth a zing. if spinning it up to 9k

yep, thats where i would be taking it off

Back in the day when it was just the Lm1 and few other products, innovate stuff was good, was a forum and the guys that made the original products were quite active and helpful on there. they knew their stuff. was a good tuning forum in general also. Then yeah they got brought out and the og dudes left. the forum turned into a steaming turd and got shut down. so support wasn't a thing anymore i still have my old lm1, that gets brought out now and then to compare against the spartan with adv. advantage on the lm1, it actually tells you when the sensor is trash or some other issue. rather than just a false reading. has the lcd screen to compare against what ever you have connected it to

/ Update. Yea i did nothing but bolt the on headers and sat the intake on, to see what it would look like finished with loom

Loom basically done. changed some of the split loom after this picture. as the ali special stuff is super thin, crushes and looks horrible. Coil / hot side stuff is heat sleeved. the xlr connector down bottom by ecu plugs is for dyno wideband connection Getting pretty close to first start up. shimless buckets showed up, so top end is all together properly now. e throttles and stuff all work. engine turns over and has oil pressure. Just waiting on a few more bits, then rest can go together made this dipstick tube that doubles as the oil return for the vvti Have room on this setup, since no fuel rail in the way. so the lines do a sneaky sneaky around the back Had a bit of a shitfight buying injectors, not naming any names NZAIRFITER / DSR TURBO massive sharn what happened. But bosch group the flow rates of their 980cc injectors with a little dot on the side , red, yellow, blue. I asked for them to be checked before sending them out. Yeah nar sends 2 red, 2 yellow. red ones can flow up to 7-8% more than the blue and yellow somewhere in between. I wont bore you with the details of the bad customer service, but was basically stuck with them. please dont buy anything of this guy The link can do pretty cool injector test. so ordered some measuring tubes off aliexpress and rigged up this abortion with one of the bike rails. conveniently they have clips to hold the injectors in the rail and i can run deadhead setup on my fuel system. This is all attached to the fuel system and ecu in the car Test run on the bike injectors. they flowed nice and even. pretty good for some 10 year old injectors that have been kicking around the floor of my shed. but they are a touch small to run as single set of 4. the bike runs 8 injectors with the 980's in the rail wide open test (100% duty) for 30 sec. (double the time about 900cc/min) red, red, yellow yellow Just as bosch states the 2 red ones on left flow more than the yellow on right. about 4.5% difference. real world (roughly) if you tuned the engine at 12.5:1 afr. you would have the far left running at about 12.3afr and the far right running at 12.7afr. not great, not end of the world. unless you got unlucky pair that far right injector up with a cylinder that wants to run leaner than the rest. Next with little math i simulated the engine running at about 8500rpm for 1 minute at about 40% duty. since this engine will never see anywhere near 100% duty. though may get lucky and they would flow closer to each other at lower dutys Still about 4% different down at that duty. Yes the math doesn't math, as they should be flowing around the 360cc (360ml) mark, going by the wide open test. The next day after the petrol fumes wore off i realized i didn't account for the the inejector deadtime. so real world with the right deadtime numbers, that would be at about 28% duty. Done another test at 80% duty also, with similar results, about 4% difference Will order a pair of yellow dot injector off someone who is less retarded, as thats whats in the starlet. flow all 8 and match up 2 sets for both cars. so not all is bad, the starlet might get a set of better matched injectors out of it as well

I hear the sq one doesn't feel amazing. as it turns it into a short shifter as well.

wires, fun times. Waiting for some more china stuff to finish it. but got a good part of it done running split loom for the main part, since 99% chance will change things at later date. so needs to be serviceable most of it will be hidden, rather than a showpiece Trigger bracket on Made adapter to put oil pressure/temp sensor, in oil pump bung. ideally would be post filter, to be most accurate of what engine is seeing. I did think about making a block instead of the vvti banjo, with a port for the sensor, but wasnt that motivated. Is only really there for a tuning aid anyway. running aliexpress denso style plugs, on things that need plugs, they seem decent and cheap plus if get keen, can make a bracket for them to clip onto. yeah i deburred that hole

Finally brought an ecu. wanted to try one of the new g5 links. but couldn't justify the price, and no real need for it. So got a g4x xtreme, as is lowest model that can run e throttle without and external box Speaking of external boxes. not a fan of any extra gauges, dashes, keypads etc. and for the most part they just tell you when your engine is already blown up. So made some brackets that tuck the ecu and fuse box out of sight. yo dawg i heard you like brackets, so i put a bracket on your bracket paired up with the $40 dollar aliexpress fuse/relay box. which is actually pretty choice, unless it catches fire. It come with a lid but doesnt fit behind kick panel. so can stay open

Assume you probably dont want to buy 6x new injectors at about $100 each. But if you do get some 980's in there - 0 280 158 040 being able to move the injection window around with the lower duty, actually makes more power on my engine over 9k.

wideband sensors are easy to break. hot sensor on cold engine start. (moisture hitting hot sensor) Impacts or bad vibration. are the main killers. have killed a few in exhaust probe in peoples wobbly exhausts. when used to road tune stuff back in the day. Make sure wideband doesnt run with engine off. then put a new one in and carry on, Also, the adv sensors seem to take a hiding. have been using the same sensor for a couple years on dyno. It regularly gets checked against cars with onboard widebands, to make sure both are reading the same.

/update .

Brake hoses for rear finally showed up, so could finish the diff. It runs fwd corolla rear brakes. so looking at my daily junker 20v. looked like the lines on that would do the trick It had that janky setup on it before. since they are slider style calipers really should have flexi hose at end. made these little brackets on the mill lathe, to hold the end of hoses with a factory clip bit more trimming and tig to diff. which was a super fun time to do in place. not the prettiest thing, but stuck. TOYODA cut the stock hard lines down, some bending and new flair on the end. While no fluid in the system. Threw a new seal kit in the front calipers. pistons were amazingly mint and they would have been fine without a rebuild. I probably got them off @GARDRB back in the day, guess he done better back then. Put some fluid in and bled. No leaks and have brakes again.

Wanted to make sure had some form of clutch before going too far. turns out the one i modified was cooked. no drama was a bit of a test run. Actually managed to get one the same and showed up in a few days. was a dick to bleed and still isnt quite right, but stuff that requires engine out seems all good, so deal with it once its running New one in and fuel lines done, The firewall and pedal box was flexing a lot. im not sure if ae86 has some other bracket setup for the hydro clutch. but anyway made a bracket to tie that side of pedal box to the firewall/ master I usually come off the main oil gallery for the vvti oil feed. but its 3/8 bspt and needs to be banjo fitting. not really a common thing, 3/8bspt to an banjo so made one

^ no one ready for that