kpr

Members
  • Content Count

    2,545
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

kpr last won the day on June 22 2015

kpr had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4,831 Excellent

2 Followers

About kpr

  • Rank
    Dr Dolittle of 4age

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Converted

  • Local Area
    Northland

Recent Profile Visitors

2,222 profile views
  1. Yeh not bad aye. pity this shitcunt called @dave ripped me off
  2. just nzkw 450 series. stuff at tank end been on there almost 2 years, seems fine
  3. This is running again. with some some mixed results. Makes the same power as the old setup, with almost identical power curve. This is good, wasn't expecting it to make anymore power. runs nice. Swapped in the big inlet cam. As on old setup made another 15kw on same boost, but ran junk. (see top of this page) Ran better on this setup but still rough idle. Now where it gets weird; Had to add a decent amount more fuel, but only had very small power gains over stock cams. Tried all sorts, no dice. Still unsure whats going on. Ended up swapping back to stock cams. One major benefit of the itb setup is how well it runs down at idle. before with the big plenum and single throttle it would stall out real easy. much below 1000rpm and would just die. now it will go right down to 500rpm and keep chugging along. Have also added a simple on/off air bypass solenoid. programmed for idle up on cold start and when fans come on. Also doesn't vibrate it self to bits like the old setup. Still need to fix and tidy some stuff up. plus finish the tune. then im a gonna go destroy the paddock Next up steering servo for full scale rc hilux:
  4. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    OD: 76mm Wall 2mm 2.5m = 3.14kg pir2 halve your weight double your power and prepare to weld it back together when it falls apart : Aluminium
  5. kpr

    diesel spam

    torque at wheels, isn't a useful measurement. depends what gear you are in. they could have got it wrong and thats at the engine. would need 200kw down at 2000rpm to make that at engine, or 250kw at 2500rpm
  6. Handbrake is on rear drums factory. transfer case one that come off is a trailgear setup. will likely redo the rear brakes with calipers that have internal hand brake. run a normal style handbrake leaver between seats
  7. Taking way longer and changing more stuff than planed. Although thats fairly normal with this thing. Fuel filters were in the way of new intake. so have run new fuel lines. mounted new filter by the fuel tank. line splits in engine bay for the 2 rails. reused and remounted the old hard line feed for the return. Not much to look at here. pretty clean under there, because all the dirt is now in my eyes. ali exhaust hanging in there. Pulled the transfer case mounted e brake off. handbrake cable doesn't fit with throttles. that was enough of an excuse to throw that junk in the bin. Its heavy and have hated on it since i got it. will be no handbrake guy for awhile. untill i get motivated to make a new setup. chucked a new driveshaft seal in while was there, since leaky Throttles assembled and balanced ready to go on vac rail finished. air bybass on back. map,bov,fpr on front. some butchery of an old throttle body welded on bottom for throttle linkage throttles bolted on for good. fuel rails and lines mocked up ready to go. yeah i cheaped out on fancy banjo fittings. Moved ps reso to other side of engine bay and redone all the lines, as they were pretty janky before. moving the reso along with new intercooler pipes, frees up the whole corner in front of the turbo for a better airbox setup. that someday may make. hmmm wires, not keen
  8. Im with ol mate @Roman on this one. They are bad at heating the air running normal let alone overspinning and air being sent through for another go. Also the e throttle idea is basically the same as what the factory sc14 stepper motor does . Combined with the sc clutch can control when an how much boost . Not sure how much the sc clutch likes being tuned on at all the rpm, but was switching one on at 4000rpm for a short time and didnt nuke itself
  9. Yeah can get good results in alpha n only. Only benifit using map at idle would be so you can run an air bypass for idle control.
  10. Will be the problem. they sound just like that when have a lean cylinder. will missfire and pop out the intake. Need to do 2 adjustments on 20v throttles. balance each throttle on its throttle stop . then there is a 2nd adjustment so all the throttles start to open at the same time. if they were balanced on the throttle stops and 2nd adjustment wasn't done, soon as apply throttle via throttle linkage they will go unbalanced. Also if they have been removed from manifold at any time will likely need rebalancing. Have had best results ditching as much of the vac stuff as you can. Hook up brake booster leave rest disconnected. Map sensor - not really any point having it on alpha n tune. (ive been out of the ms game for years. does it have a separate sensor for baro correction or can use map sensor?) Fuel reg - leave the vac disconnected, running a flat fuel pressure is far easier to deal with; your tune has no idea of map, so your pressure reg shouldn't either Make sure all 6 ports on the throttles are blocked Basically any air that doesn't go through the throttle plates and into the engine is going to give you a bad day. Running baro correction on the alpha n tune?
  11. You need to balance the throttles. that cylinder will be sucking in more than the rest. I assume you have set the idle by cracking the throttles open? whats the rest of your setup. using any vac? booster, fuel reg etc.? tps/alpha n tune? ecu?
  12. should be fine either way, with the engine you're planning. worst case you will just need to step up to better fuel. tuning with knock detection is key.
  13. Had to go do stuff... Re fuel, compression ratios etc. Probabaly noticed have been avioding giving a straight answer; Because to many variables. 95 probably ok going by what you have said. Should be tuneable. But wouldnt expect to get the most out of it. Same reasons haven't posted to many examples. My 4age have run 11.5 compression on 11psi (turbo) with 98 fuel. But different engine and to many variables to compare.
  14. knock detection is easy enough. I just use a donut style sensor and a small audio amp and headphones. Think it was old mate @Roman dave? that was using laptop mic input then headphones out to do similar thing, via some software. i kinda like the amp idea since aren't changing from analog to digital back to analog. but may not be an issue. biggest thing is knowing what your listening for. some engines with noisy valvetrain it can be a pain in the ass to catch it early. quiet engines are easy. using the ecu to detect knock can be done, but is a pain in the ass to setup and alot of them suffer from false alarms. you pretty much need to knock the engine to set it up also. if your octane/knock limited best to go the audio way. advance timing till have light knock. then back it off 2-3 degrees. thats your timing number.