kpr

Hall effect style tps should give a more linear reading?

Ive never had that much trouble with them, other than randomly dropping connection and the likes. should be easy enough to connect and grab the tune. datalogit software isn't that bad to use considering old tech. same goes for the pfc's themselves. Old tech and have some quirks but can still decent results on mild ish basic setup. the one in the graph was pfc like every second fd rx7 seems to have

Just be careful. power fc the base map is super aggressive timing wise. which is a bad day on a rotary. keep off boost and generally be fine. Get your hands on a interface box (datalogit or fc hacko) and pull the tune out of the ecu and I can have a look at whats in there

yeah thats pretty big turbine inlet size. sounds like g40 size This one was a stock engine fd with 6262d pulsar t4 exhaust housing. ( basically garrett g35- 900 ripoff) nice to drive on the street. Something like this would likely fit your manifold. its next size up exhaust wheel with the same size compressor as the one in dyno graph. would obviously come on a bit later

what flange does your manifold have. Since rotary's are horribly inefficient you want something fairly big, on the exhaust side at least. they spool a big turbo easy and will be easier on the engine with less exhuast manifold pressure. esp on the crappy fuel up here.

probably not much to worry about. just few more revs, then you can inspect the combustion on the top of the pistons, through the hole in the side of the block.

Sometimes 5 deg doesn't do much/ anything especially if its real close to where it needs to be. probably need to try 10 - 20 deg to make up the difference it was before. On the dyno it was coming back together with no fuel imbalance at high ish rpm. still does the same ?

mahi dawg

Got the driveshaft welded together. Dropped it off to engine guy to get balanced. Decided to check the axles before putting them back in diff properly. gave the faces a skim which were a touch off. Checked the pcd. 3 out of the 8 studs were a touch off so corrected them. over all they were pretty decent considering i didn't have a way to do them super accurate back in the day. Also they had 2 spare holes on one side from the original 5 stud pattern, drilled 2 more 180 out from them, in an effort to make axles less out of balance Math slightly off on my coil over mounts, so car is a little lower. I could just wind the coilovers up, but thats an illegal move in northland

yeah

The reverse swing wilwood pedal box in my starlet i have to run 5/8 cylinders. even 3/4 was to big. from memory its 6:1 pedal ratio

Got back to the driveshaft, now that I have the right uni's and diff sitting in correct location As said a while back, front had 0.7mm runout on the tube, with some big balance weights on the low side. Now with both ends running true, has about 0.2mm now. but seems like the tube is oval more than anything Just need to weld it properly and front half should be good to go. The rear half was basically the same. Its like mr toyota's machine was slightly on the piss. the part that spigots into the tube is slightly offset. The uni end on the front half was a diddle to get right. since isn't anything to reference off and any way to hold it. as had already cut it up. So the rear I done some weird stuff, so could true up the ends Got it in the lathe with the ends all running true, so was just a matter of somehow machining the spigots to size, without the the shaft falling apart since the spigot goes down into the shaft, drilled some holes to locate the end. then tig'd the tube to the end of spigot which meant i could machine down /off the factory weld while the shaft is still 1 part. giving me a spigot that runs true chopped the ends off with grinder, then managed to get them in the 4 jaw backwards to tidy up the face. Next step will be; square up the tube in lathe, then wack the ends in and should align itself. that or turn into a shit show

Got this junk all welded together. new pinion seal in. Took awhile to get it all bang on toe wise. grinding some V's in the case and laying some welds into them, got it pulled back into spec. Then realized after i poorly painted it, with almost zero prep. The car has no bump stops. well it has bump stops in the coilovers, but the diff would be inside the car before they made contact. even if setup right, adjusting the body adjustable coilovers would effectively move the bump stop location around. so welded some pads to the diff, that line up with whats left of the factory bump stops. The top arms hit the diff at pretty much the same time as the diff center his the floor. so the idea of lowering the top arm mounts didn't become a thing. Nothing had any signs of contact from when it had no bump stops. but pinion was pointing down, which makes clearance better but driveshaft angle bad. Likely have a little less travel now everything is setup right ,driveshaft angle wise. but still should be enough. full bump straight up is here, will be a touch more when cornering. ideally the bumpstops even further inboard would be better, since that allows more side to side up travel. and it's only stuff in the middle that wants to make contact. ride height is about here. Everything fits together nice. so should be good to go together properly. I might change some stuff with the brakes and lines, but worst comes to worst will be just a couple of tabs to weld to the housing.

Stock 4 link and panhard setup will stay. It has turreted rear for the s13 coilovers, but not planing on modifying the body anymore. The diff case has been bent for camber, i may take a little out of it. but otherwise just tidying up whats already there with a few tweaks It always put the power down better than the starlet. So will probably struggle to get a wheel going NA. it would have been about 220kw when was turbo. I should probably push it outside and clean the 10 years of filth off it. but i assume it still looks like it did in back in 2011

got them zing'd together and the old mounts cut off diff housing The bits in the middle, are just some pipe i machined to keep everything square and spacing correct, while welding. Will get them tacked on the housing, then see if i can do anything with the top mounts. would like to low them down, to correct the top arm angles a bit. depends if there is any spare clearance between the diff housing and the links themselves, as the top mounts sit behind the center line of the case