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kpr last won the day on June 22 2015

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  1. @Dudley was trying to keep it under wraps bro. but since you blew my cover
  2. heres an update,
  3. Not sure if will ever do bigger exhaust, because old man quiet daily driver. but it would be nice to grab those gains down a 4000rpm. I may modify the stock airbox to try gain back some of the losses with it on. just need to find one to butcher. bigger feed pipe and modify the entry to a big oval shape cone. so it feeds the bottom of the box and effectively makes it bigger at the same time
  4. Its a glass pack muffler. well a fire extinguisher actually.. In an attempt to let the front part of the exhaust do its wizardry. have had good results doing it in the past, but ideally it would be longer. Have been trying to see how small can go on exhaust, but the more stuff i try, the less likely there looks to be a substitute for the 3"
  5. So I dyno'd this junk and it made 102kw. Sometime later i did a couple of tunes on fwd blacktop's. one had pon cams, one had some big kelfords. both made 108/109kw. with a big hit in the midrange. and midrange numbers already seemed disappointing stock, compared to my 16v stuff. So decided to do a little r&d on mine this worked but vibrated like shit so made this and these With the peashooter exhaust and factory airbox still, it made 108kw. with a stack more midrange than the cam'd engines red is before any changes with the airbox removed and exhaust dropped off after the new pipe. it made 112kw and picked up the bottom end more So yeh trying to convince one of the guys with the bigger cams to try the parts see if will pick up the midrange they lost video version:
  6. Two tone and wheel game on point
  7. Re c series gearboxes. Have pulled many apart. The janky way works fine. Just need to split the case and have about 10 to 15mm gap to work with to get 2x m8 bolts out that hold the reverse selector thing? Then will come apart. Otherwise doing it the proper way, getting 5th gear off can be a pain. But the later boxes seem to have jacking bolt holes. which makes things not too bad.
  8. Haven't done any real development on 20v. but the ones Ive dyno'd have been far from impressive. especially through the mid range considering they have vvt. but again with the right bits should wake them up. the green line is my stock ish 20v. some minor tweaks to head, aftermarket ecu and decat. otherwise stock. factory on stock ecu i would expect them to be under 100kw. This one is a kick in the teeth to 20v (red). Modified bigport head with stock little cams smaller than 20v, no vvt, 20v throttles, good header & exhaust. more power everywhere
  9. Yeah i'm pretty sure it will have very similar results. Kinda shows its all in the runner length. itb's not going to make much more power unless the runner length/size can be improved on. In 4age's case thats a big yes, but most people dont. Itb's make the engine run a whole lot nicer than the single also This graph is picking holes in other peoples stuff... blue; current junker bigport 193b engine red; smallport with with itb's, headers, exhaust 193b cams (so same bolton wise on paper as junker) purple; 20v blacktop stock headers, some kinda different trumpets, exhaust, tomei poncams
  10. yeah valves ,chambers, exhaust side the same as smallport After being modified the port is pretty similar from the valve back up to the port divider. short turn is basically the same. so mostly only the dead space before the port divider being the major difference . which doesn't seem to be an issue. Seems the issue is, people think its an issue and make manifolds to suit the big opening. which will result in power loss esp in the bottom end. the bigport heads have a lefty and and righty port, which is how it gains the bigger inlet area. this kinda runs down past the port divider a bit. This and a few other little bits is why i say the smallport should edge it out, as can get a nicer shape without adding material Im talking the early modified head here. The late bigport head could be improved upon, but will always be the worst choice factory or modified. unless the port is filled and reshaped.
  11. Cant say i've used it on ms. but just because it supports a knock sensor / detection. doesn't mean its anygood. and its up to the end user to set it up correct. in most cases to will have to run your engine into light knock to map out the knock thresholds. Its not something that will help you tune your engine. or would i rely on it if you tuned your car for say 98 and threw in some 95. personally i dont use it on any of my stuff. just tune it for the fuel you are going to use and be done with it
  12. Closest thing to a stock 4age ive had on the dyno. if you can call a 20v a 4age, is my blacktop 20v. has a little bit of a port and chamber zing. link ecu and decat, otherwise stock. makes 102kw. I would expect high 90's from it if was stock. I did another one the other day similar spec with pon cams 107kw. The least ive made on a 16v is 94kw. which was the late bigport head, but lots of little things add up that aren't stock. the fancy exhaust side. tune set on kill. limited accessories etc. would say well into 80's stock If someone has a 16v 100% stock id happily run it up for cheap, because would be interested myself
  13. So bigport head vs smallport The smallport head has bit less work and 10 year ago me porting. so at a disadvantage. I think it will have a little bit in it over the bigport if same same. But pretty interesting to see how close they are all the way through. same bolt-ons & cams. blue smallport red bigport
  14. Will Just want some form of bypass around the charger as you say. I ran a sc14 pre throttles (itbs). used the factory toyota stepper bypass and the link controlling it when wanted boost. But sure you could do a mechanical version of it to achieve similar thing.
  15. Probably all denso ecu's have leaky cap syndrome around those years
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