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kpr last won the day on June 22 2015

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About kpr

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    Dr Dolittle of 4age

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  1. Ok that was a fail ^ and a few more followed. Did some more runs and wasn't happy how unstable boost was. Put a bigger 40mm gate on it. inc bigger pipe off manifold Was just as bad, if not worse. Probably should have brought a 45mm and may have worked. Decided to try mount the gate on the turbo housing, before buying yet another wastegate Grill weld Grill cut a patch out of an old collector fixed Finally holds boost perfect now.
  2. New clutch finally in. it runs the 230mm ae101 4azge clutch, and there isn't much around for them. heaps for the smaller aw11 /ae92 225mm. ended up going with a toyota clutch plate and exedy hd pressure plate. holds the power fine but unsure how much abuse its going to like. New turbo seems to work all good. full boost threshold isn't alot different. but it seems more responsive at lower rpms. Been having boost creep issues. unsure if the old turbo was doing the same, as never really check it after i changed the manifold and wastegate pipe. should run around 10psi but it was creeping up to about 16psi. 16psi isn't really any drama for this engine. but driving slow doing 4wd stuff, it heat soaks pretty bad and has enough power to do what it needs. so keep it lower. Suspected it may have been the long wastegate pipe. so pulled the bonnet off and made a zoomie test pipe from next size up tube It dropped the peak boost from 16psi down to 13psi. so still creeping a bit, but i can live with that if it means i don't have to pull it apart again Made a new pipe to exit in same location as last one. runs the same 13psi peak as test pipe. old pipe 38.1 tube. new 44.5mm tube.
  3. cv's are meant to be the weakest part of the factory front axle. but cant say i've had any experience myself, since swapped them out with stronger aftermarket ones before i even drove it. but other than that. yes you've pretty much covered it. i went with keep it light, fix any weak points and drive at 9000rpm option also 99% of the time i forget to use the locker anyway, even in old mates viral vid it was only 3wd
  4. Its got a high pinion head in the front from a prado. has a high steer kit in it also. Has a switchable locker up front. welded rear. but yeh with the front locker engaged, it pushes the front a bit more and doesnt turn as well. but i dont think its as bad as most people say. stock cv's probably wont love it much. will be fine locked on the road with the hubs unlocked.
  5. Turbo No# 3 Left - old turbo gtx2863r. Right - new turbo gtx2860r Gen II So new turbo is smaller, but later version, which on paper should flow the same. but spool better having a smaller compressor wheel. Yeah i hate that silicone elbow off the turbo too. but some diddle put a tower in the way. clutch is still broken. so no test run yet.
  6. 175/225lb front 100/200lb rear combined rate 98lb Front 67lb Rear spring rates seem retardedly soft after coming from stuff setup for track. body roll is pretty bad if you throw it into a corner , but i cant go harder spring rates without raising the truck and seems to work well other than the roll im using the 200lb rear spring as a poor mans hydro bump stop, locks out the 100lb spring at end of the travel. if i get around to putting hydro bumps on rear, will probably go to 125/150 or something for less aggressive change over rate Oh and have driven it down the road a few times now. seems to drive all good once get used to the body roll.
  7. 36+1 trigger setup seems to be working good so far. nice smooth rpm plot. Was attempting to check the tune, but fun ended pretty quick. above is a part throttle run, just to check the new trigger setup works thru the rpm range. more than half throttle and the below happens.. Its had a hard life. originally was in my trueno Have also moved the battery to the rear. in an attempt to move the weight rearwards and lower down. I put those ugly spring covers on. as the roost off the front wheels was pumping the whole spring full of a grass/mud combo
  8. So just after getting home from the day above, 2 of the VR sensors in the CAS decided to spit their guts out. Was going to chuck some spares in and attempt some more heat shielding. but all the spares looked pretty pre cooked as well. location of the cas kinda sucks and most of them leak oil. Time to try something else and get rid of the cas altogether. Rangi'd on a stock vr sensor to read the teeth on one of the cam wheels. which is 36 tooth. then welded a single tooth to the cam wheel and used a rx7 abs wheel sensor (they are vr sensors ) to read it. Twisted some wires together and told the ecu to look for 36-1, rather than stock 24-1. boom started first go, timing was way more stable than the stock setup. pinned to the mark rather than the stock setup, which would jump around a little bit. Turns out a nice compact VR sensor isn't really a thing. so grabbed a couple of barrel style Hall sensors. was just enough room to mount a tooth on the back of the cam wheel and make a sensor happen through the backing plate, on the intake side 36 tooth trigger directly reads the cam wheel. mounting this one was pretty easy have temporary wired it up, works good so far. / do a skid
  9. choice. After doing the front. ive dialed in more rear antisquat using the spare adjustment holes. moved the top link down at the chassis end. top link is close to parallel to the ground. now has around 90% anti squat. couldn't really drive it very hard with leaves up front. but once i done the front setup and started driving it faster (70-80k through a bumpy paddock) it showed up what was wrong with the rear. under acceleration it would squat and blow through all the travel, not leaving alot to soak up the bumps. so dialed in the antisquat to compensate. Ideally i'd like to move some weight to the rear so can run a stiffer spring/ valving and dial out some of the antisquat. but it seems to be working ok for now. as for roll steer. offroad havent noticed any. on the road i haven't really driven it with the front 3link setup. but when it still had the leaves up front, the rear didn't do anything silly i would definitely build some adjustment into it if you can
  10. secrets out, its actually steam powered
  11. wastegate pipe = success
  12. Grass has been getting a little long. so time to give it a trim in other news, just been making a few things stronger, chassis panhard mount. added some braces to lower chassis links on the rear. pedal box was flexing the firewall/wiper tray even tho i took in all 9 of the factory bolt holes. added another bracket back to the cross bar. and hung the brake light switch off it grass trails p/s cap is out in the paddock somewhere
  13. Seems to be working pretty good so far. got some softer springs on the way for the front. as its sitting a bit high. Now the front works better than the rear, and has shown up a few issues back there. is a bit harsh going over stuff compared to the front. Have adjusted the top spring lock out, so it stays on the softer spring rate till later in the travel, which has made it a little better. have got a few more things i can tweak, but will likely have to remount the rears for bit more up travel and add hydro bumps, to work as well as the front. thats not gonna happen anytime soon.
  14. Not quite finished, but It goes
  15. Towers done. Paint isn't really the same colour, but i'm sure it will all blend in through the first mud hole Gotta weld a bend to the compressor housing to clear the tower. other than that everything seems to be fitting