kpr

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kpr last won the day on June 22 2015

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About kpr

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    Dr Dolittle of 4age

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    Northland

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  1. if the preload is the same, will be same height. 10kg spring is a 10kg spring no mater the length. the longer spring will be made out of thicker material to compensate for length.
  2. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    looks like a straw. and from a quick google, amongst all the usual shitfights general consensus is they are "loud"
  3. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    Yeah i mentioned that earlier. (Not the holden bit..)As well as Trial and error , unless you know someone with same setup or can do the science. Bit different in his situation, but generally on a na engine that your trying to make power on. will have a big exhaust , cams , so yeah mufflers if want to use it on the street. And adding mufflers in later sucks
  4. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    Haven't tried anything like that. mostly straight though absorption, or multipass chambered. one im currently using is a combo of both seems to do a pretty good job on a cam'd 4age . its pretty big, which helps the cause. pics in link below. isn't pretty because is made from parts of the previous one that fell apart and junk had hanging about
  5. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    i usually make my own, so haven't looked into it much. but try adrenalinr. think they will custom make if they don't have what you need. otherwise if you have some room loop 2 together. its really a bit of trial and error sometimes. as holdenman says some engines are easier to shut up. generally you want at least 2 different syles/shapes/sizes of mufflers to shut up different tones. /beaten by @cletus
  6. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    need all the mufflers to make n/a quiet with big exhaust. couple of reso's and big non straight through at rear, swap it out for a straight through when going turbo. i say this, as likely have a hard time finding non restrictive muffler that shuts it up in 3" for a decent price. short primary's obviously aren't great on n/a, but will be fine otherwise
  7. kpr

    kpr's kp60

    Not much happening with this, got it legal and drove it around a bit over christmas break. Had a few new wheel days Put the streets on for a change Finally fixed a front guard, to replace the one that had an incident with the wall at hampton downs about 5 years ago. pretty good for a spray can job Got another pair of 14x7 03's from old mate @Dudley . Finished polishing them, and some antique gold. after digging out the other pair i'd been hording, they needed same treatment. guard slightly different colour, but will do for now /forever. maybe in another 5 years will fix the bonnet Back to the OG look from 10 years ago except for 7's instead of 6.5's
  8. kpr

    Muffler Tech

    what size primary's are on it now? so it has a twin 2" system on it? and going to go to a single 2.5"? you maybe heading on the wrong direction going bigger primary's, especially if downsizing exhaust (twin 2" is bigger area than single 2.5")
  9. kpr

    Switched power

    so is like this now and works? can kinda see how that would fix the issue to a point. bit of a band aid fix though. with ecu wired on that side what ever is backfeeding that relay wont be enough to power the ecu, so engine will shut off. you may still end up with battery draining issues or other weird stuff I still think your better off to ditch that "main" relay before fuse box and run a couple of relays after the box one for ecu and other for the rest, fuel pump can stay how it is. assuming "to ecu earth" is the fuel pump output from ecu
  10. kpr

    Switched power

    where does the 12v+ come from on the coil of fuel pump relay ? Sounds like how you have it setup should work. Ideally you want your main power feed from battery -> straight to fuse box/ fuses . then out of fuses to relays I like to run the ecu on its own relay triggered by key on. Then a second relay for the fuel pump. ecu supplies negative to coil Then if you want to get fancy; As well as the fuel pump relay doing the fuel pump. use it to trigger the coil on a 3rd relay, which does all your injectors, coils etc. This way if the engine stops for any reason, the ecu turns off the fuel pump and also kills power to injectors and coils and what ever else is on the 3rd relay. just bit of a safety feature
  11. kpr

    Switched power

    Its basicly saying that everything that the ecu supplies a ground too. Isc, boost solenoid, injectors etc... needs to have its 12v+ supply come from relay of which its coil is switched with ign on If you have powered something directly from the battery or accessory its going to cause issues Sounds like you have everything on the efi setup running off same relay? Its good practice to use seperate relays and fuses for ecu, fuel pump etc. And big current draw stuff
  12. kpr

    Switched power

    need to find what ever is connected to the ign on that is causing the issue. easiest way would be just start unplugging stuff, alternator, light bulbs etc and puling fuses. till it drops the relay out. then go from there. or there is something janky with the key setup.
  13. May end up with too much rear bias if you delete it. just do some hard braking see if it locks the rears
  14. So, i did this again using the same coil overs and springs. 8kg springs 210mm long Front compressed 91mm adding both springs together. so 91mm x 8kg = 728kg Front Rear compressed 63mm adding both springs together. 63mm x 8kg = 504kg Rear 1232kg with almost empty fuel tank (60L), no idea how much fuel it had when weighed it last time, but guessing would have been empty because it always is. worst case its about 100kg lighter than the 1376kg it was, All the weight come off the front. Which is what ive slowly been chipping away at. 59% front 41% rear with empty fuel tank. still not great but better than 64/36 Should be able to pull another 10kg out of the front if swap out the brake calipers and intercooler. Anyone got some fc/fd rx7 calipers hanging about ?