kpr

Can you do drive through on the fries ?

Yeah hilux is setup to have the widest powerband possible, rather than huge numbers. it maxes the 2860 out pretty easy. havent have a 2860 and g25 on same engine. but the g25 looks to come on 500rpm or so later than a 2860. with the vvti and different cam combo i was able to get the 2860 to come on 600rpm sooner. so should be able to get the g25 to come on like a 2860 on a normal 4age. probably even better since is more of a feat to pull the boost threshold down from 4000rpm to 3400rpm. than it is from 4500 to 4000. since 4ages dont really do much down there. So having something that will come on sub 4000rpm and easy make 300kw, would be weapon in an ae86. cool thing is, since it will be happy to make the power at high rpm, can run a boost ramp to make big power up top, while keeping the cylinder pressures down. long as the maxchinarods stay in the block rpm wise, decent power wont be that taxing on the engine

Stu's engine is basiclly the fancy version of whats in the Hilux, which is vvti long rod turbo, but built from worn out old junk and a weird cam combo. @Stu is going to run a g25, so we can make a nice easy 300kw at 10,000rpm

@Roman whats this bit ?

driveability wise, oversized throttles kinda suck. unless run non linear opening rate. cant say ive seen bigger perform worse though another interesting thing, slightly off topic. if you run an itb car up at say 90% even oversized throttles. it will loose some power. but oversized single not so much. was tuning a 2zz the other day with big single e-throttle 70% was the same power as 100%, it needed to go down to 50% before it would loose 10kw. It seems like the angle of the itb throttle plate screws up the runner tuning.

ah yep, i was probably remembering what i was gonna die grind them out to.. Smaller intake covering up a bad exhaust side is also a thing. I'd try run smaller header primary's before making the intake smaller.

Yeah dont be afraid to run run bends if need to. long as they arent sharp wont effect power. haven't played with distance to head, in any scientific way anyway. ages ago i swapped from 47mm (blacktop with bigger plates) to 52mm throttles. with length and belmouths the same. was zero difference in power. that was running at around the 150kw mark. Going to throttles too big and loosing power seems like a bit of a sharn to me. can gain power in the bottom end going to a smaller runner. but will loose top end power before that happens. not what you want for race car. I would think the 45's would be starting to get borderline with the power you are making, but maybe ok. those 48's should be plenty big enough step up, they have probably taken the area the throttle plate takes up into consideration, with the 45mm outlet. the roman dave spec bmw bike throttles are the same 48mm plates and 45mm outlet

Try an extra 100mm on top of what you have, if you can fit it. then move 20mm at a time either side. vvti can shuffle things a bit. but getting the intake length dialed is still worth it. My long intake (compared to what everyone else runs) still works best, even revving to 10k with vvti See how it moved the bumps up the rpm range with the with the shorter runners. going longer should pull a stronger one thats currently out of reach down the rpm range, try get that to bang on where it wants to naturally make peak power. then use the vvti to hold the peak longer. you will likely find if you only go say 50mm longer than current. it may get worse before it starts to get better

@Dudley keeps all the tubes of red silicone in stock. assume its warped because the welded part? cut the welds on one side. bolt to something flat and re-weld

was awhile ago. but was a t4 housing, so probably the .85 housing going by the pulsar site, since the 1.01 looks to be v band. rest of setup wasnt anything amazing, china cooler and exhaust this was the other one. the blue line was stock engine. and red rebuilt with mild port work. it was pretty close to maxing stock injectors. the above one had bigger injectors

Have tuned a couple of fd's with power fc, both had single turbo swaps. one had a stock engine with a pulsar 6262 (g35) the other one had an older gt series of similar size with with a rebuilt engine with some mild porting. both made low to mid 200kw at wheels on low boost. the one with the pulsar turbo was more responsive and came on bit sooner. but both had a stack of midrange and good off the bottom, nice to drive for street cars Anyway, power fc is getting pretty old tech now and fairly basic. but for something like above they are fine. anymore power i would look at something newer like a link. as they arent amazing with bigger injectors, have to fudge the deadtimes and stuff to tune the low load and idle stuff and you are putting your trust in some old electronics, The idle control has a mind of its own also. Need a datalog it or similar to tune them properly, hand controller is just for small adjustments and a pitta to tune with. I would avoid a microtech also, cant say ive tuned one myself but have heard stories from other tuners and are old tech now also I dont think the air pump would effect anything tune wise Edit; Also if you wanted me to tune it. you'd have to deal with me moaning about the power fc and to buy a link

be careful if has a power fc ecu. (every 2nd fd seems to have one) most of them seem to be running around on the base map which runs them ok. but said base map has super aggressive ignition map that is a bad day on our crappy pump gas.

Bigport 4age is kinda fake news like romans 3s example. The port entry is bigger, but goes down to a smaller size at the port divider than smallport 4age. So really the smallport is the bigport head, Smallport (the real bigport) head makes more top end than a bigport and less off the bottom. but a lot of it is is also in the inlet manifold. My turd engine was bigport vvti and made more midrange than any other na 4age ive seen making the same peak numbers, but invalid because above. If it were a smallport head it would do the same because vvti is the cheat code. but still doesn't cover up all the sins of a bad setup. if you were to add lift (2zz / k2*) along with that vvti you cover up more sins again. From my testing the port entry is kinda blah, doesn't matter long as its not too small. But if its way oversized like one of the tvis engines. making a manifold that suits the entry size is also not the move, especially if you are going to end up with a reverse taper. further down the port towards the valves is where its important

Doesn't jump as well as the gc either

if only mr toyota carried on with the 16v head, added itb's, vvt/i and the bigger cams like the 20v got