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Everything posted by kpr

  1. You'll want the "off" slightly higher than the thermostat temperature.
  2. I screwed up one of the pipe lengths. so after many alterations, I'm happy with the lengths and how they look. I think for initial setup i will make a pipe that tapers up slowly from the end of collector as it sits (in place of the ugly pipe tacked on the end) Probably wait till good engine is back in before playing with that section more.
  3. Long time no update. Wanted to try some stuff with the extractors, decided would be better off to make another set that will bolt in same place rather than mod current ones. made these pipes which have a very small taper down so can run a stepped section. port too big to run straight pipe. made a collector. idea was to try cut down the big open space where the 4 pipes connect. this is about how they will go. awaiting the flange and will need a few tweaks here and there. but all pipes are within 10mm of each other as it sits. other than the wor
  4. Boring up date on this turd Got the shits with stock ecu being a turd, and installed a g4x atom. wired it in to stock loom leaving the stock plugs in place as well. so could plug stock ecu back in. went something like this: had it running with basic tune in a day. then a while to get the alpha n tune and cold start, a/c idle up's with the stock isc to work nice. tbh i got lazy and never finished it properly and only has a road tune on it that spend an hour or 2 on. still, drives way better than stock ecu an uses quite a bit less gas. somewhere along the line i
  5. the bottom new one usually gets pressed onto a carrier. the top one looks more like a fwd style.
  6. doubt there would be any measurable difference in power.
  7. most will allow .05 either way. so .025 will still be well within spec. I could be completely wrong, but would assume at least part of the reason aftermarket cams call for bigger clearance. Is said engine with the cam swap is a whole lot more likely to be raped within an inch of its life than a stock engine. so bigger clearance to take up the thermal expansion.
  8. Old China sensor not drawing too much current for it?
  9. Pretty sure I said bigport 4age barrys not general barrys In other news the heads are still siting in the same place on my bench, because yuck
  10. Lucky its not the 20v version, else you would still be in the driveway suffering for smoke inhalation
  11. ae86 and ae82 have different part number head. but that could mean anything. So thats why redtop 4ages suck so much. they made the ports screwed up put smaller cams in and heaver rotating assembly could be worse, could be talking 20v's
  12. ah yeh that makes more sense. I just looked up some part numbers and found 3 different numbers for bigport heads.
  13. I assume the ae82 used those mounts on the head? which were made in back in 83 along side ae86's. which means the "fwd" casting would have had to be made back then. So maybe the 2 different heads were being produced at the same time. doesn't seem like a toyota move though.
  14. Did someone say tvis was nice of toyota to keep the bolt pattern the same on smallport
  15. So Ive always turned my nose up at anything that isn't a smallport 4age. But since everyone jumped on the smallport wagon. I thought i would attempt to make bigport great again @kyteler the gc sent me some horrible bigport stuff along with an ae82 bluetop head. I also had a bigport head thats been hanging around forever that i dug out. so... soon as i put the 2 together, it seems all bigport heads weren't created the same. first difference; the top one is obviously a rwd one and bottom fwd. as the top head doesn't have the fwd mount cast into it hea
  16. ^ I remember how amazing yet horrible that was. said dumb shit, complete with youtube clickbait. if tldw. it almost gained 1kw. so success ? just need one of these
  17. I always knew this topic would end up at the holy grail, the su carb
  18. Next video will have dumb shit
  19. Nice. whats the yourdyno controller and software like to work with ?
  20. Heres another one on intake manifolds. on the gold junk engine i posted a pic of a page back
  21. ruthless, would keep your feet warm in the winter i guess. how about some group n cuts to keep the idle down
  22. does your engine bay not melt with timing that late? Ive just ditched the stock triggers on my 20v which are 24-1 vr in the dizzy. now running 36-1 hall cam speed. runs a whole lot nicer no other changes. i do think the stock setup was getting pretty tired though as it spat the odd trigger error
  23. while im here. Ive built this amazing turd to do some testing on. Its a super janky mixup of parts. but kinda resembles a stock smallport engine. although the head has had port and chamber work done to it, was only spare i have. why? mostly because i need to test some questionable mods, i dont want to try on my good engine. but also good opportunity to kinda start from the bottom an dyno test stuff that works, that doesn't involve building an expensive engine. I have some hand me down parts that can go on it. itb's and cams and the likes
  24. Other than not having to find a "closed road" to do testing on. most recent one was the outboard injection. im sure ive told you about 500 times, I based most off my testing off afr change on alpha n tune. with the outboard injection I had a richer afr up top. this would have sent me in the total wrong direction, as would have assumed it lost power. but was actually the same / slightly more power. Kinda the same deal with the runner lengths. the way the afr acted did not directly relate to the power. but did give me the indication i was going in the right direction. en
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