Nominal

Judging by youtube, it's a PITA to take apart with plastic clips one the outer drum.

Paging @UTERUS Our Bosch front loader is making nasty noises at certain fast spin speeds. Did some checking/googling and it seems probable that the drum bearings or spider are toast. Worth getting fixed? it's about 8-10 years old I guess. Other option of course:

I've had a vin assigned by VTNZ for my project car (a US import) without them seeing it in person. I just took photos. The VIN tag hasn't been made/attached yet.

Bunnings porirua wouldn't let me take a bottle in a hatchback. That was a few years ago though.

I built my own for a car, no worries. So long it's not a heavy vehicle you'll be fine.

This fan is currently wired to 'suck', i.e pull air from the engine compartment out to the front of the car. I'm going to change it to blow towards the engine, the way a mechanical fan would work

Roll on summer (in Wellington, ha)

Nice work on getting it running. You must be pleased. injectors could be sticky, worry about it later.

I wood agree.

Nice work one power steering leaks. Mine's terrible. For the steering wheel, can you center it up by adjusting the tie rod ends? I haven't had much luck with getting the steering wheel right, I just live with it being wonky. For the hubcaps, this gadget came with my new car, not sure if it's a home-made or commercial thing?

Another Beach Hop back in March. Made a change to visit Thames, enjoyed the pumping engine museum barry chat there. WOF time this past weekend, been expired since April I think. Passed OK but I needed to do a little exhaust repair as the clamp/tack weld have come loose from a bash on the bellflower tip at Waiouru Shell garage on the way back. Since I had it on the lift I replaced the head unit which lives under the front seat. I put a cheap JVC one in last year but I didn't like it much and the sound was a bit shit. Went for a Pioneer unit this time. Somewhat app-controlled so easier to operate when you can't see it. Took the air tank out to drain it - no bung on the bottom sadly. There wasn't much water in there, maybe 100ml? A bit oily too from the engine driven compressor, but I guess that will supress the rust? Cleaned out the water trap/filter which is always gross. Should be all good for another year. Not sure if we will do BH 2022, the price for the house we've rented for the last 3-4 years went up by 50% which is a bit off-putting so we declined to sign up.

Nice! Did I see this on a truck coming through Levin this morning? Pretty sure it was a roveronda on the truck

They don't usually have a huge gap like that, looks more like it's had a leaf removed.

Round two Cleaned up the old sill a bit more so I could check what I was doing. Cur the step into the lower form and clamped that down too Worked out better. I'll extend the press tool a bit more and hopefully get less of a crease for round 3. Also got the other one back from the painters after a month in paint shop / covid jail. The damage to the roof from the roof rack has been fixed up nicely.

V10 why not

The original woodie sills have a special shape (AFAIK the cars aren't the same). This is a pic of a good one from an ebay auction. I want to reproduce this if possible for repair certification reasons mostly. The blue woodie has a plain vertical piece there I think (can't check as it is still in lockdown at the painters for a roof touch up). At least it's easy to see what is required when the whole sill comes off the car.... First attempt is to make a press tool and form from a chunk of wood: Top plate from some 3mm steel: Give it a squish: Not great, I have the z-fold a bit wrong in this test piece. Currently refining the lower form and will have another go.

Bent up some new body to chassis mounts, one for each side. I had new panels for these floor pieces in my USA order. At the time I wasn't sure how much remained to reproduce them from. They wouldn't have been too hard to made.

I've bought part-sheets of steel from these guys when they were in Newtown. https://www.kiaorametalindustriesltd.com/ I'd go with 1mm for panel repairs, and the inner sill is probably the same - check the what's left of the original. You can get full sheets from steel and tube etc, it's not terribly expensive. This was my last order early last year.

Depends, do you ever want to drive it, or it to be a forever project?

Made some holes in the reinforcing plates. These punches do a nice job. And did some more cutting. First to go is this bit of the floor and the remainder of the inner sill. Body mount bolt put up a bit of a fight but some heat and the impact gun got it off OK.

Oh, if we are doing ling posts, I have a whole Nissan N12 dizzy in my A-series. No issues in about 18 years.

Looks like the Powerspark kit. See here, says coil resistance should be > 1.5 ohm https://blog.simonbbc.com/2019/04/24/fitting-a-powerspark-electronic-ignition-kit-picture-guide/

Just did a test on my Morrie. My battery is good. 11V at battery when cranking. Probably the low cranking voltage is upsetting the electronix.

Got sidetracked into Holden and Morris brake work-overs for a few weeks. Took out the remainder of the back seat support structure which has been soaking in the molasses for a few weeks now. Made two new pieces for the bottom of the B-pillar, one for each side. Surprising how much softer the non-zintec steel is, even though they are both 18g. I'm out of the zintec right now but have most of a sheet of normal CR sheet to work with.