fletch

What link have you got? Got any spare outputs? If not, you could probably get a little CAN expander with some inputs and outputs (Maybe a PDM). Use it to monitor meth tank level, turn the pump on, drive the injector/solenoid. I would imagine you get a water/meth specific pump that's got its own built in reg. From the internet - Water/methanol must be injected above 60 psi to properly atomize into the engine. Pressures lower than that will reduce the cooling effects, since the larger droplets exiting the low-pressure pump reduce total surface area, and will cause little to no gain in performance. You could make a table that injects vs throttle position and manifold pressure. Then do all that tricky stuff to pull fuel out and change timing when it's active etc

Good progress. I'm coming for sure test drive at Xmas. Chop chop

A junction box needs to be accessible. I would say ok if behind oven. But, Probably best to make lead on cooktop longer as 7kw cooktop only needs 20a supply, and will probably be too small to be wired to the 32a oven supply as is. I'll do it for ya, but have to wait until after I have done barts rangehood

Large tank will be large, and heavy for that pressure. Bit of weight and energy to carry around a couple of G's on the back

That oil pump you have is the goods. Chuck a crank collar on and you should have no problems. If you want to run arp main studs, you really should get the crank tunnel bored. They shave a bit off the caps and run a bore through it. You will need a balancer. Ross or arp both make them to suit the single cam accessories, probably more options with ross(triggers, pump drives etc), but they are all $$ Get the spool crank pulley bolt if your going to do the balancer. It's made by arp and there are no other options. With all the internals you are going to run, get the crank balanced and grub screwed and it will be good for 8k easy. Big boost and timing down low is what breaks them. Once they are past peak torque you can go for it.

This and if not, swap the wires to see what happens. 50/50 shot of it working

Have you got the wires to the iacv crossed and it's trying to close to lower the idle as it warms up, but is actually opening and goes all the way to max open.

This. It will be sweet. Just snip the ends off those elbows so they can all fit onto the flange and bobs ya vagene

Puegot 504? 506? Front caliper seals fit the sumitomo caliper. And mk4 or 5 Cortina pistons fit

*some of this may be a repost I grew up on a farm, and I'm a guy, so I looooove burning shit. I got the end off a lpg tanker a while back to build a brazier. It was big so I gave it a haircut to make it more manageable. I have been using it to convert everything I can get my hands onto into heat. In fact, my property has never been so free of rubbish. Today I put humpty back together again with the intention of disappearing some dying hedge trees. I welded some tabs to the top half so it locates on the bottom and drilled a 10mm bolt hole in each to keep it there so I can move it easily with the tractor. Should do the trick.

But how will you do big vrod burnouts if you can't hold the front brake at the same time

This is a much bigger job than the photos show! I did a nosey drive by the other day and saw it was nearly done. Looks mint.

Drain the carbs after the meeting and refill with petrol. Then when you get to the track next week, enjoy the instant start and crisp high idle as your 16:1 comp engine runs right on the edge of knock. Then just as your envious competitors womble over to see how you got it to start so easily, and run without Italian tune up amounts of throttle, flick the fuel pump on and the idle will drop back to the typical methanol idle, albeit not as bad due to the glowing plugs and hot chambers from the brief burst on petrol.

In stock

I'll try and swing by tomorrow on my way past