fletch

I currently only open it to disconnect the battery when its parked so the clock doesnt drain the battery. /too much rattle for me...

Started building a motor for this. L28, flat top pistons, twin hitachi SU's maybe a cam. Thought i would put the pistons on myself. Watched a bunch of videos of some rednecks doing it and it looked easy. Made a jig out of plywood to hold piston and allow the pin to pass through the correct amount to get the rod centered. Borrowed an IR thermometer from work and heated them to around 200degC Easy Gapped the rings last week. Next i will clean up a couple of cranks i have and see which one is the least wonky. Going to try something different with the head and use an uncommon combination. I put this one through the bandsaw to see how much i had to play with Hope to have time next week for crank and then assemble bottom end the week after

This car is soo lush. There is no better combination. Its hilariously powerful. Ol barry did a great job diy shortening the throw in the column change too. But yes, you have too many projects. Once govenorsam has done the rust ill 'look after it'

The column change mechanism you have should be sweet for the extra gears. You just need to have enough travel up/down, and in/out. You can shorten/lengthen the linkages to make it work.

what size seal have you got there? stock is 35x50x11 but nissan replacements are only 9mm thick so it sits further in so they rub on a fresh part of the driveshaft thats a good idea

Didn't think you needed squirters for a wof? They have never checked mine at a bunch of testing stations.

All of the diffs have some kind of issue so the the one with the least slop went in. I also parted with some cash for someone to make a new front piece of the driveshaft and balance it. Been burning around in it today to make sure there are no issues. Gearbox - check Driveshaft vibration - check Diff - hmmmm. I'll take some bananas Front end - not so good I pulled the front left apart and the outer wheel bearing has decided to shit the bed. Same bearing as 80 series cruiser kingpins and the 12 roller version that I have is prone to dying. Tomorrow is Taranaki anniversary so no shops open. I'll try and get some overnight parts from Japan from Auckland. Leaving for chch Friday with my 2 yr old son. Don't think he will be that keen on sitting on the side of the road for a day waiting for help. Maybe I should join the aa? No photos of bearings due to me being busy swearing at the fucking thing.

Haha didn't see that.

FS5W71C Floor Shift 5 speed Warner synchros 71mm between shafts centers C revision box. (Larger countershaft front bearing, larger 1st/2nd synchros+ selector) R4W71B Remote (column) 4 speeds B revision. Etc FS5C71B Same but the C stands for Porsche type steel servos(synchros) I have found these in random zed's but in no particular pattern. RFB twenny debt and 25 no debt and s13/14 have the C type box with the 6 bolt plate at the back holding the shifter. The bellhousings are mostly interchangeable. If you try to run a C onwards gearset in a B housing you will need to machine a bit of clearance for the larger counter gear and bearing, and drill out the 1st/2nd selector rod hole from 14 to 16mm. The B gearset goes straight into the C housing with the C bearing, but you need to sleeve the selector hole down to 14mm. The gearbox revisions went all the way to H. The later ones had synchros on reverse and double synchros on 2nd. I have a good selection of boxes, parts, new synchros etc in stock if you need bits. Barry out...

Progress has been slow due to general life and family commitments. So I stripped the box to get the short mainshaft, then stripped a long box that I had in stock for the rest of the parts. Stripped Then it got out of hand and I had to rob some parts from another box I had stripped earlier I also replaced the bush in the rear housing. Nissan won't sell you one, only the complete rear housing for $184 usd. I found one for $12 nz and got it yesterday from the US. Changed the box over into the car today. Bad idea doing it over my head on the hoist as I still have a crook shoulder from dromageddon. .. Next, the diff has a lot of slop. So I thought, easy, I'll just swap it over for a spare I have. Well the spare has stuffed spider gears by the feel of it. I have another head but it's unknown condition. I suppose I'll have to make 1 out of 3 next week. Hopefully it won't be @governorsam banana skin spec to get to choose and back...

Haha looks like a sump top and bottom

you are right. i need to find a reason for them failing. i think i know the cause, but it appears to be my fault with the whole measure twice, cut once thingy. I am trying to organise a replacement front half of the driveshaft to be made in the next few weeks.

i bypassed the ballast on my wagon when i went to electronic ignition but didnt change the coil. hasnt blown up yet. I heard it would give a fatter spark at the expense of coil life

so i have picked up a vibration that i think is coming from the driveline. It has been getting worse but i cant find it so i have been driving it hoping it will fail and the problem will be obvious.... Before nats the tired l26 will be changed for an 'running' condition l28, rebuilt gearbox, maybe twin carbs. It needs to make it to chch and back also... The turbo conversion is on hold until i can find the vibration problem I started to strip a gearbox to build another column change box to fit the car. I got it cheap from somewhere i cant remember. Unfortunatley it contains all of the sparkles In the spirit of os nats, i will leave it another month before i start repairing it

I would say you need the cooler in the direct air path/ducted. You are pretty hard up it most of the time, and the fan can only pull air across the cooler at say 40kmh? At high rpm your oil pump is going to be moving a lot of oil volume x temperature is a lot of energy. How much delta t are you able to get with that fan using warm air? Are you able to put the cooler in one of the front corners with a thermostat on it?