fletch

Nice work, but i think you would want ign cut to spool the turbo when it goes back on?

You need a little timer for the airbag light. They are supposed to stay on for 5 seconds or something. You could solder one up out of shit from some online plans and tape it into the loom/back of cluster

They just fail randomly. Some last forever, some don't. I don't even try to fix them any more. Just chuck em out and install LED batten, usually the cheapest at the wholesaler. But, you can still get replacement electronic ballasts, and it's not hard to do.

Rear brakes got a birthday also. I wasn't a fan of racing red so found another pretty shabby looking pair and gave then a clean up. Also got some new brake shoes and a general tidy up. There's a bit going on in here incl some kind of spacer springy bracket thing that I spent an hour looking for as it boinged across the shed as I pulled it out. New rotors, pads, brake lines etc.

Parts arrived and steering hose was completed. Off the back of all the wiring changes I was making, I thought I would test the 4wd pump. The one in the car seemed to possibly work, but was noisy. I have a few spares in the hoard so out they came. The common fault seems to be the accumulator loses its nitrogen charge, and the pressure switch fails. One of the pressure switches was smashed, and the other appeared to be stuck. I gave it heaps with the hand pump and nothing. I got a ln aftermarket pressure switch and new accumulator and o-rings all round. I also gave the filters and internals of the housing and pump a good clean as it was a bit scabby. There's a cool little gear pump inside for making the pressure. This one had some visible marks but I couldn't feel them so back in it went. Finished. Ready to be re-installed

Probably cos lighting the fire later in the cycle means the heat energy created does not get turned into as much work pushing the piston down cos it was already on its way down when lit. So more energy remains as heat?

We used to set them off down the back of Avondale pick a part. You could tip a car over.

All the jokers I know building turbo motors just get them hot and check for leaks, change the oil, and send it. You get a better break in of the rings before the bores get polished and less oil burning.

Just in time for wagnats

In the bin. It tells the ecu when you are turning the steering at idle and it bumps up the revs a bit.

Hard to say. Not a brushed motor. Usually the caps go and let some burnt pooze out the ends. Is the smell in the terminal box? You should be able to turn the power off and get ya nose right in there for a sniff. New caps are not badly priced. Should be numbers on the side of them. Me or @chris r should be able to get you trade price or better

I've never come across that before. That photo you have of the cap has the same font as 2 junk rb25 heads(r33 and r34 neo) I have here and those are factory stamped.

That cam cap numbering is factory. You put the front one on loose and make all the other ones face the same way.

I remember you saying you couldnt, but I can't find where you did, but can you just run 1x ethrottle actuator linked to both banks? I know you can buy $$$ actuators, but the other day I saw someone had taken a 82mm bosch ethrottle, removed the plate and attached an arm to link to their itbs. Plus, they are only $270ish

Crc brake clean has 2 types of xxx-chloro-xxx. I find it stings your cuts more than the wurth brake cleaner plus which is just straight hydrocarbons and evaporates clean.