fletch

Probably cos lighting the fire later in the cycle means the heat energy created does not get turned into as much work pushing the piston down cos it was already on its way down when lit. So more energy remains as heat?

We used to set them off down the back of Avondale pick a part. You could tip a car over.

All the jokers I know building turbo motors just get them hot and check for leaks, change the oil, and send it. You get a better break in of the rings before the bores get polished and less oil burning.

Just in time for wagnats

In the bin. It tells the ecu when you are turning the steering at idle and it bumps up the revs a bit.

Hard to say. Not a brushed motor. Usually the caps go and let some burnt pooze out the ends. Is the smell in the terminal box? You should be able to turn the power off and get ya nose right in there for a sniff. New caps are not badly priced. Should be numbers on the side of them. Me or @chris r should be able to get you trade price or better

I've never come across that before. That photo you have of the cap has the same font as 2 junk rb25 heads(r33 and r34 neo) I have here and those are factory stamped.

That cam cap numbering is factory. You put the front one on loose and make all the other ones face the same way.

I remember you saying you couldnt, but I can't find where you did, but can you just run 1x ethrottle actuator linked to both banks? I know you can buy $$$ actuators, but the other day I saw someone had taken a 82mm bosch ethrottle, removed the plate and attached an arm to link to their itbs. Plus, they are only $270ish

Crc brake clean has 2 types of xxx-chloro-xxx. I find it stings your cuts more than the wurth brake cleaner plus which is just straight hydrocarbons and evaporates clean.

What window seal did you put in? Genuine ones are exorbitantly priced. Local glass man said he uses some kind of hilux seal, but there is a chance of breaking the window getting it out and they are hard to get.

Have you got access to an oxy torch? Heat half of that piece up red and bash it (or squash in vice) oval to fit your log.

We have plenty of it. I'll grab some next week of you can wait till then.

Option 2 looks good. In my experience 1/8bsp and npt are cross-threadable. Just chuck a rubber bonded washer under the oil pressure switch. I have had success locally at the hydraulic fitting shop for those kind of fittings. Some like @Vintage Grumble or some other supplier of consumables could probably help

Could you remove some fittings from your tee? Spin the tee 90deg and screw it straight to the block with a male male nipple, then the hose out the side of the tee and the switch in the end. Once you get all the rpm, there will be a fair bit of vibration here and might snap off that fitting