fletch

Spray brake clean backwards throught he injectors while powering them up to get any shit out too

Looks like raising the hanger bearing would be pretty easy. How much more penetration do you need into the box? Can you make a 30-50mm spacer with a male and female spigot to go into the front of the diff flange to space the shaft forward? If you do it at the same time as the hanger move it will look 'stock' too

Have you got the rubber/plastic bits on top of the springs inside the crossmember? Mayne you have them both on 1 side or 1 missing

I ground a chunk of steel to hammer into the nut to free it up Then had to cut all of the rubber off the old hanger and press the bearing off. The new one should have gone straight on and I blindly slapped it on with the F facing the front. However, the F is supposed to face the back and the price was jammed on. It took a hour to get it off without fucking it. Fortunately the new bearing came with a new nut as that was fucked too. Haha. Reinstalled the driveshaft and also a trigger wheel to get driveshaft speed for the ecu and 4wd controller I am going to run.

Spent the last few nights in the shed on the premise of getting a datsun ready to go to nats, but got a bit sidetracked on this. Speedo fixed Then I removed the driveshaft to swap for the less 2nd hand one I have in stock. While I was in there I noticed the rear diff cover had been leaking and was covered in shit and thought I better do something about it now rather than later when it runs out of oil. I whipped the back cover off and spent hours with a Stanley blade shaving the original paper gasket that had set like rock. The drain plug magnet was broken into a few bits so that got replaced with a donor from a smashed gearbox. Then I needed to replace the centre bearing on the driveshaft. It's a cnut of a job.

Yes 30 and 87 Have you got it wired up as per the pic? Maybe move the yellow wire to ign. The relay hasn't got any trickery in it where it auto cuts out as it warms up. Maybe your yellow wire which is now sense if you have jumped it as per above, hasn't got a great connection to 12v. Plus it will always be on as its connected to battery and ground.

It goes past 180 and keeps going to the zero stop. Maybe that one time I went to Mexico and spent some time there, it loaded up the cable too much.

Had a bit of a dismantle under the dash today. Need to fit the correct clutch pedal and bracket and also swap around the brake pedal from the (poorly) cut down auto one I was running. Ended up pulling the column as I'm old and inflexible. How the fuck did I get up and under here when I first had this car ill never know. Also got a new rubber boot for the column to keep the engine bay fumes out. A long time ago just before either parked it up to go overseas, the speedo stopped working. I always thought it was the dodgy speedo drive I modified. Turns out it was the cable New one on order. 3 weeks from Japan. Will give me an excuse to tidy up under the dash properly.

Picked up the car tonight from a mate who's great with a welder. He did the ally fab below and the exhaust. I ended up packing the engine mount up 3mm on the passenger side to get some turbo clearance and I might pay the strut tower a little visit from Mr hammer later on. Need to get a bunch of hose clamps, and a few more silicon joiners to for the piping, and some finessing of a few places where things are close. Then oil and fuel hoses.

Would the larger valves on the smaller bore suffer from shrouding being so close to the bore and negate the larger valve size? semi related, on L24 datsuns, the valve notch has to cut into the bore. So you could do it!

Do you have many other high speed inputs on the link? I think I read that that while they can read up to 10khz, if you have have a few high speed inputs, the max frequency each input can process drops. Could have my wires crossed, I was doing some research into which ecu to run and read it somewhere. Was to do with people trying to run all 4 abs sensors to digital inputs and maxing out the processing ability of the ecu

For the top ball joint boots, just go to repco/napa/supercheap/butler auto mart etc, and ask to have a hunt through their boot selection. I found all of the sizes for my 230 at maybe repco.

is it the 5 speed trans? look up compushift. they make a controller for it but it only works with the trans that has the external computer. Some of them are internal and they are the shit ones

2 steps forward, 3 backwards today. It's too tight I'll have to modify the cooling line which is ok, but the compressor is only a few mm off the strut tower. I believe I have the correct manifold so further investigation is required Dammit

New clutch bearing. The old one was for my old Japanese twin plate and was for really long clutch plate fingers. I'm not sure where the new one came from, I found it on the shelf Then, since I was on a roll I put the box on the motor, set up the subframe on stands under the car and balanced the motor on top. Not dodgy at all