Area Reps
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2,069 Excellent

1 Follower

About fletch

  • Rank
    Taranaki Area Rep

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling


  • Local Area
    Wanganui/New Plymouth

Recent Profile Visitors

1,238 profile views
  1. Dusted this off last week to use it next month for a family trip. Wof man did not approve of my 'custom' shocks. I found some old ones from some holden that were a bit short but did the trick. no pics, but you can see the bump stop has been working a fair bit. I was looking at getting some of those air shocks that you can pump up to take some weight, but might trim the bumps a bit first, and look at some new springs I also changed the front springs to HQ super lows. They are 17.5mm vs 16mm wire diameter so a bit harder. the stock trimmed ones felt a bit soft. Done a few kays on them, not sure yet.Think the rear needs to be harder Getting good at changing them, only 15mins a side now so can change back easily. got a bit of a lineup going on.... Probably got enough now.
  2. Have you got a regular set of pullers? I have a China set and bought 2 lengths of 3/8 threaded rod to extend the clamshell bit to allow me to do the same as you have pictured. You might be able to buy some locally. I think I paid $10 for 2m of it
  3. If you peel the top gasket off there will probably be a hole/groove into the base if the carb
  4. Looks like a u11 version
  5. I would try and borrow a sensor to try first, Then 2nd, try new wires from the ecu to the sensor. It could be a bad connection somewhere leaking a bit of voltage into the map signal wire.
  6. Lol, I have a fwd maxima with the early faulty guides. The plastic bit behind the red square slides down and the tensioner hasn't got enough extension to tighten the chain. I have found that if you leave the car off for a week or 2, the piston will retract enough to start the car pinned for a full Italian tune up. The chain goes so fast it pushes the plastic bit up the guide before the tensioner piston can be pushed out and shes fixed for 6 months!
  7. had a mate with a z powered 1200. z18et head, z22 block, z20 crank or something close to that. ran an early link. went very well. plus its nissan lego so mechanically you can do anything. ka24de+t
  8. Can you take a photo of the wiring inside the terminal box of the motor? It says 400v star, (Y) so it should be able to do 230v delta with a Chinese vsd or 2nd hand trademe one. If you can get one cheap it will be the easiest way
  9. fletch

    redrilling mags

    @Ja1lb8 made a jig to hold rims for a large wheel importer friend of ours. It was cheaper to buy them blank and drill them to suit, than stock every offset and hole pattern. It was pretty rugged. (the drilling, not the fixture) and they would just go at it and it seemed to be all good. /depends if you have enough meat
  10. can somebody recommend me a fuel pump for my datsuns? one of them has an inline electric pump, the inline vibrator type ones, that has been running sweet for a long time. I bought another cheap one and it lasted a disappointingly long 45 seconds. @Carsnz123 was lol at my misfortune. the trademe seller refunded me the money straight away and said dont bother sending it back, obviously no great loss... I dont want a mechanical one as they are often parked up for ages, and the carb dries up so i have to crank for an eternity to get fuel back to the carb. also dont want one that sounds like your mums half flat vibrator like my current one
  11. Vacuum brake booster leak? Cant remember if you were running a booster. Try disconnect that?
  12. Yea that loop that went through the TB bled the rear ridge to the front right? Can you just whack a bit of hose in to let any steam/bubbles through to the front?
  13. Was that TB water feed also a bit of a bypass/air bubble bleed that you have removed? Could you try reinstall it bypassing the tb?
  14. thats the idle air (AAC valve) behind the throttle cable bracket. give that a strip and clean first the 2nd throttle cable attachment is for the cruise control actuator cable, and the cam bit behind that is to make the throttle open slowly at first to make it easier to control at low rpm that black cylinder is the traction control motor. it drives a 2nd butterfly in front of the main throttle and shuts when it detects you having fun
  15. pics of throttle body? from memory the 41 has a wax thermostat expandy thing on the bottom of the throttle body that ups the idle for cold start and the hot water pipes warm it up and make it back off. could be sticky. or as above, pull the aac valve off and give it a lube up