fletch

Some work, not many pics. New brake hoses all round. Got some new front brake rotors. Mounted fuel filter under the car. I kind of made my life hard here. I should have dropped the rear suspension when I made the fuel hard lines and ran them right back close to the tank and used some short hoses. But I didn't. I stuck the filter here to make some room in the engine bay Then I cut the power steering hose off that doesn't fit my pump and fitted a hydraulic compression fitting to the tube. Got some hose and fitted some ends. Well, 1 end anyway.... Fuck. So now I'll wait for the mailman to rectify that...

I just happened to be passing and wandered into the workshop after the first run. I was greeted by a cloud of 2t smoke and a grin from ear to ear. Bit of tidying up and you'll be able to join the wheelie boyz in waitara

Is the fuel pump controller pelresent in your car? It was probably bypassed and that's why it won't control. When the ecu turns the pump on, there is no low speed idle setting, it's just flat out. How good is your wiring diagram? I'll email you a good one that you can actually read the writing on.

What ecu are you running? I remember helping find a fault with this car when it had a powerFC. It had 2 map sensors and one had failed. Also, the factory fuel pump controller dicks about with the 0v return from the pump to change the speed. You want to ground the white wire coming from the fuel pump plug. It will still get its 12v supply from the ecu triggered fuel pump relay. If your running the factory air flow meters, it sounds like you have an air leak between the turbos and the throttles. Maybe under the plenum. Something like the idle air controller hose or the brake booster hose

30debt is +38mm deck height

Suspension together. Wrecker mate has found me the bolt I need too. I'll chuck some stock gtr brakes on the front for now to get it running and driving. I had a set from ages ago so chucked a new seal kit in. Also wanted to solve the issue of having heavy steering. Hicas R32s have variable assist power steering. Mine was always heavy and I never bothered at the time to sort it, but it was the wires missing off the solenoid on the rack. So I found a spare rack in stock to make 1 out of 2. Unfortunately there are a few little bits I still need so start the 3 week timer for parts from Japan again...

Pretty much all the front bushes and joints were stuffed so I am replacing as many as I can. Many years ago I got a good deal on some upgrade suspension parts. Nismo circuit link upgrade. The caster rod is a bit shorter than standard, the lower arm is 4mm longer for a bit more negative camber. The upper arm mount has the holes drilled slightly differently to try and reduce the misalignment in the arm so the bushes last longer. I also bought new upper arms. All of the ones I have are stuffed and it was similar money for a whole arm as it was for new bushes.

Paets turned up so I picked out all the good bits and assembled the hubs and J arms. Many parts, lots of creative pressing to get bearings in.

Put old and new spring end to end in a vise with just enough compression to hold them. Measure length then compress em 10% and measure again. Chuck out the Shortest one.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Nismo-Heritage-Skyline-Repair-28860-RJR20/dp/B0D7Z14XHD I bought 2 from this guy as mine were toast. He has 1 left. Shipping was actual overnight parts from Japan. 36 hours door to door Edit- comes with all the rubber bits and new nuts too. Re-use the steel part.

I remember now having an issue with the drivers side one 15 years ago. Looking at it now, I see the trimming I gave it to make it fit better and actually be adjustable.. Anyway, remember that bolt I cut the head off? Lol. WTF. I'm off to see a wrecker mate this weekend. Dammit.

Further disassembly. The caster/tie rod bolt was stuck on one side. There was no room to swing a hammer to knock it out as the engine was in the way. I thought I'd be a smart arse and cut the head off and drive it through. Unfortunately the bolt had a taper and would not go. After a few beers and some swearing it came out.

You can bin all that clutch stuff and just put a U bend in the line coming down from the master and stuck it straight into the hose fitting to the slave.

Get a decent lump of wood and smack it side to side/up and down a bit behind the input flange to crack the seal.

I use them on various hydraulic calibration gauges and pumps. I have the fittings on and off all the time and re-use the shit out if the washers. I only do them up hand tight too. Have never had a leak and I take them to 5000-10000 psi all the time.