Hyperblade

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Everything posted by Hyperblade

  1. Picture heavy post follows: On to the finishing off the brake lines. Redone the pedal box piping so I can add some brake pressure sensors at a later stage, a lot easier to do it now then once it's installed. However it's a hell of a job fitting everything in, without the access port from the engine bay it would be impossible to get it as clean as I did. All lines are being run in the cabin to keep a nice clean look. Lines in wheel wells given some protection. Move the reservoirs which were remote to being directly on the master cylinders, saved 500g worth of hoses/fittings by doing so. Finally have a reason to add some honda performance parts... Fuel lines finished up, just waiting on a length of hardline for inside the cabin. Waiting on fittings to arrive before I can secure the pipes. TracTuff Timing Chain Baffle plate added to stop oil going up into the timing chain. Still waiting on my other baffle to be available. Engine back in the hole (will come out again) so I can work out positioning of clutch bulkhead fitting and wiring fittings. Added some Radlok fittings for the alternator and starter wires, really cool connectors, can rotate 360 degrees while attached. Mounted the EWP to the engine, very tight all around.
  2. Set of TRD headers on TM for the low price of $1000... Claims 7.4kW(10ps) improvement... https://www.trademe.co.nz/2814713140
  3. So rust all repaired and on to fitting everything back together, a much more fun job. Rear diff painted, and new brake lines run. With the diff moved back, brake line won't reach chassis, so moved it to exit internally (all lines will be running inside the car) New feed and return lines run through to cabin from surge tank, using hardlines for as much as possible due to cost/weight savings. Tapped the head for the water fitting and blanked it off as I don't need it for my setup, saved 120g by chopping it in half...
  4. As Spencer said their are so many different designs/lengths for the K20/24 manifolds. I agree with him that some of this is for different types (weight etc) of cars. I also think a lot of it is packaging in the engine bay. I.e the Euro has a bigger bay so can fit in longer runners. But same manifold won't fit in Integra without a bit of chopping, replacement. Also Honda doesn't just stick with what they know, they do try and optimise for each engine/car combo. i.e the FD2 has a range of changes just for 5HP. The American market is interesting, a lot of people are really trying to do everything on the cheap, so naturally that means it's cheaper to get a second hand manifold off a different car. So you have these massive debates on which stock manifold is better. Same with headers, PLM is the greatest for HP (supposedly), but in reality that's only because of the price of it, when in actual fact it's pretty average all round. They are always after bolt on horsepower, with no tuning, which they get away with because of the factory wideband O2 sensor. They seem to be very reluctant to actually tune a car probably because most don't have aftermarket ECU's or can't afford them. So for Quad Throttles you have the issue they are are fucking expensive for what they are, and they also don't fit in easily with a good air filter (front wheel drive life), so it's a lot harder to justify. Toyota guys are lucky as they can use the cheap 4AGE ones ($200), but if they were paying $500-$1000 for a set then it becomes a vastly different proposition. The other side is Honda manifolds are actually really well designed, so it's not a massive gain, plus of course requires an aftermarket computer for ITBs. So all round it gets to hard/expensive for most of them. I've been trying to find information on Honda K20a Plenum sizing, and have came up with fuck all, I can space my new one out to increase it and maybe? get more HP, but I can't find any data anywhere on how big to go, and the difference it would have on the K20a which is really frustrating.
  5. Anyone got any good info on plenum sizing? Currently is 1.8L but I can easily add spacers to increase, from what I've seen on the internet people say around 3-3.5L is better, cause reasons... Negative maybe affects throttle response? Not sure if on part throttle how big an issue that is??? I have the space available so easy to do now... Might also allow injectors in their...
  6. It's a nightmare. I tried a number of things, but what worked best was a Clean and Strip Disc on a grinder e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/10311-toolshed-clean-and-strip-disc-115mm?categoryId=1918 It doesn't heat it up so it comes off fairly well, it does however create massive mess (I'll still be finding bits in the garage for years to come) However you do end up going through a lot of them as they wear out, and you have to be so careful you don't catch them on anything otherwise large chunks come off. The other thing I tried that worked was an Oscillating Tools, it came off in nice flakes, the only downside was it was really hard to get into hollows and corners, but would work ok on flat panels. It was also fairly hard on the tool. e.g. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/6288-milwaukee-m12-cordless-multi-tool-12v-bare-tool- I tried a wire cup on grinder and it just smeared it. I've also heard water blasting it might be an option, keeps it cool. We had just replace the rear universal, so it was ether an installation error, or it just was a cheap universal that failed. Certainly reinforces that having a drive shaft hoop is a must. RE BEAMS, You might want to keep reading the build thread
  7. Interior/Engine bay finished off: New Driveshaft done. so tiny!: I was lucky enough to be able to borrow a spit which made doing the underside possible. But what a mess it ended up making stripping the paint/underseal. Before: After: Really happy so far, looks a lot tidier.
  8. Thanks for that, great video, clearly a no brainier if you can do it. So, was thinking about running staged, with some 700cc injectors I have here outboard... Still need to see if I can fit them in the manifold. But probably best not to derail this thread anymore
  9. I would love to see the difference in performance of moving injectors outboard of trumpets, but a bit of work to setup for someone.
  10. It does make it easier, but you should still be able to get the changes through it just might need more pushing from your side. I know someone who got an old cage homologated under the new rules so it is doable. Of course if they want everyone to use HANS they are going to have to get their shit sorted as there will be a lot of cages which will need harness bars due to the belt angles. Have a talk to Deane/Brent at Palmside (They did my cage changes) they might be able to advise you on if it's likely you can get your changes through.
  11. Yes still old hoop size. Have to send paperwork off, but shouldn't have any issues. Working currently on getting sign off from original cage builder. Msnz have a form for the changes.
  12. ***Warning lots of images follow*** Final fab work was to add a harness bar in, new Motorsport regs mean I have to run a HANS and the old mounting was technically 5 degrees to low. I took the opportunity to also rear mount the seat which adds a lot of stregth in an accident. also took the opportunity to add some gusseting in to the A pillars. Here's a nice clear shot of the modifications to the gearbox to move the shifter forward: Next up was the headers/exhaust, carefully designed to meet the power requirements by John at JPWPerformance (Honda header guru). 4-2-1 packaged nice and low in the car. I then had everything cermaic coated to help reduce the heat, decided to do the muffler and flexi as well to have a consistent look and protection, really happy with how it came up. While the engine was still in I mocked up the wiring loom after putting myself through an HPA Wiring course to get up to speed on some gaps. Then the entire car had everything removed for the big strip and repaint of the interior, underside and engine bay, as I wanted to get away from the black which looks grubby very quickly. Going to be a rattle can job as it is a race car after all. Engine bay first: Stripped: Etch Primed: First light coat of grey: So while doing all that I found a rust spot, and started digging... That then highlighted a bodge someone had done, and the rust had spread abit... Least i found it now when it's easier to fix. Stripped the interior: Etch Priming (hard with a cage in the way): First light coats of grey: Still need to seam seal so avoiding those places for now. So current tasks are seam sealing, then get the car on a spit so i can clean up the underside and I can get the rust fixed. New driveshaft is coming together, flanges have been manchined. driveshaft is 900mm odd long and actually has less then 1mm change in length when moving from top of suspension to bottom, but we have allowed for 15mm movement.
  13. Yep I'm planning to use the standard front sway bar location. I haven't noticed any flex before, they have some pretty beefy gussets, front end is pretty solid.
  14. Definitely! Na on the starlet the chassis rails stop around the front seats, we have put a minor one in above the muffler, but nothing major. It has a cage which helps with strength. Have no intention of changing the fan at the moment as i've had no issues with it mounted the way it is (they are on foam), also will be ducting through bonnet so don't want to put a shroud on it as it will restrict air flow, it's hardly every used so doesn't need to be that efficient, and with EWP should have even less use. Been running fine so in the if it hasn't broken don't touch it camp! Yep new front sway bar still needs to go on, just being measured up now, along with driveshaft.
  15. New Exhaust out through the sill to get it clear of the ground as I kept knocking it. Fuel/surge tank boxed in for a cover. Most of the bits back on. Wheel base has gone from 1300mm to 1400mm (standard AE86) so will be interesting to feel the difference. Fab work should be finished this week.
  16. I was planning to do it in between seasons! COVID has slowed things up a bit, getting parts out of the US and UK is a lot harder and shipping has gone up significantly. I was lucky to get the main components very early on as I knew they would be key to the whole process. Paying someone to do the fabrication who has done plenty of different types of swaps and motorsport fab before makes a huge difference, he has so much experience so nothing is really unique and he often has a rough idea how he's going to do it, well before it's started, then it's just a simple matter of confirming locations and what i want etc and he's away. He's also put a BDA into a starlet (1.6 L that was faster then my BEAMS by 2s a lap...) so i'm getting V2 of all his ideas It has been the least stressful part of the whole process, which i'm very grateful for as normally i would be pretty anxious about it all, but i'm just excited. Some of the K motors (including mine) run an oil to water cooler sandwiched in between the oil filter and block. I'm removing it as with the water plate i don't have any coolant hoses to it. Unfortunately where it sits will fit a sandwich plate, but only rotated in an awkward way pointing towards the firewall, so you either space it out, or go for a remote filter option (currently looking at)
  17. Guy got a friend in the US to send it over to him as he was putting a K24 in a starlet, so doing the same thing with the rack. No one wanted to do the fab work for him so he gave up on the project.
  18. Passenger floor was a bit gnarly so that's been redone, Now have space to mount he muffler higher, will take the exhaust out through the sill as I was occasionally collecting it on kerbs. New Radiator and oil cooler mounts. Oil coolers are a pain to fit, the fittings always stick out so much and there never seems to be a good place for them. We have lowered it here so I can get a 3.5" intake pipe hover the top of it so I will run the pod filter somewhere in the front. Have to go in front of the radiator as there is not enough space for the fittings inside the chassis rails. A whole lot of sheet metal to fab up to duct it through the bonnet again. When turning the cross member around the steering rack needs to be changed to suit. Plan A was an Escort LHD rack as they are same length as Starlet (bump steer etc) but would have meant new arms. Somehow I found the only LHD Starlet rack in NZ and it happened to be in the south island. New mounts for it then everything bolted straight back up, that's a massive time/$$ saver. Need access to the rear coil pack as you can't remove it with the scuttle panel there. Cutting a panel is a tricky thing as it's easy to make it stand out like a sore thumb. So I came up with the idea to hinge the rear of this section, and use the existing slots, and the fixing will be under the bonnet. So once cleaned up should be pretty subtle. One of the worries when doing the Watts link was that their would be no space for my current fuel cell. Luckily however it fits in really nicely. I was previously running the main fuel pump in the fuel cell, but I had to keep the tank at least 1/3rd full to stop surge, and I can't be arsed with that anymore. So I needed a surge tank, however I hate having all the external pumps and pipe work that most people do, just seems nuts to me, more points of failure, noise etc. So I went with a FITech HyperFuel G-Surge Tank from Jegs. https://www.jegs.com/i/FITech-Fuel-Injection/546/40007/10002/-1 I will be running a return system so will be simple arrangement of just connecting the hoses via AN6 fittings. I have a lift pump which will go in the fuel cell so again keeping everything internal.
  19. 3 Link done. Required driveshaft length has turned out to be 898mm so any plans for a 2 piece are out the window as there's not enough space for it, it would be just all fittings. On the flip side does mean less weight slightly and no need to mount a center bearing.
  20. Remote coil packs are a thing!
  21. Good point on the counter balance shafts, your obviously paying to much attention, however the Civic and Integra don't run them and it's the same crank, block, head, camshafts as those engines etc so we can safely assume that was for the old man accords just to remove 4 cylinder vibration I would probably be ok to run an Ali pulley as on the track you are generally always accelerating/decelerating so less risk of staying at one frequency, but you just never know.
  22. Gear lever in position. Gear lever Moved 190mm forward on gearbox, mount was cut off and the selector shaft shortened then mount welded back on. Means no need for loose linkage system to move the lever forward which should keep the nice gear change feel the box is known for. Can see it's quite a long way forward compared to original position. Nice lightweight panel to cover access hole. Engine sitting back in with front tubs done. Heaps of room around intake to have fun later on. Rear tubs in, the coil over mounts have been raised as well as I was running out of adjustment on the shocks. They have come up awesome, so tidy, Brent is doing an amazing job.
  23. I won't be running a knock sensor, so someone else will have to do that testing. Interesting, not sure about the argument that Honda didn't use it on X so we don't need to use it on Y. Why did Honda use it on Y then... They spent mega dollars developing the K20/24 trying to get weight out of them, even going so far as to make hollow cam shafts, yet they still added the heavy dampener. The argument that it's for the accessories has some merit, but you can clearly see it's just an opinion and they have done absolutely no testing on it, no complaints is a poor excuse for lack of actual real world testing, and it didn't break after x years is not testing. Machining a aluminium pulley is easy stuff, easy sell too with "get more hp, faster revving" it's quite attractive to a customer. That's the thing with dampeners you can get away with not using them if you avoiding the frequency so will be fine for years, but if your engine happens to run at that frequency then you get the damage. Not a risk I think is worth taking personally. Thanks for sharing though, always good to have debates on this stuff.
  24. Brent is working away at a great pace. Here's a good shot of how far over the engine is to the left. Struts swapped left to right, bottom arms modified and tied back to the chassis, instead of the stock starlet swaybar which goes forward. Driveshaft tunnel tided up. We are going to have to move the gear lever 190mm forward to get it into the right position (more info on that later). Beginnings of rear changes, 3 link going in. The whole axle is being moved back 50mm and tubs going in the rear, so quite a bit more cutting to go...
  25. You don't want to go anywhere near alloy crank pulleys, you need the harmonic dampening in the crank pulley, putting one of those ali ones on means it's only a matter of time until you destroy your crank. Good video on it: You can get legit aftermarket harmonic dampeners like the ati super damper, but they aren't cheap. http://www.atiracing.com/links/pr/honda-k20-damper/index.htm