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Everything posted by Roman

  1. Nah. I just need to buy Hayabusa pistons, Hayabusa rods, Hayabusa crank, Hayabusa block and head. Then I'll have the world's fastest 1NZ
  2. 23.5mm compression height on the bike pistons. Bummer
  3. Ahh wow never considered bike pistons! I will have to get out one of the remaining intact 1nz pistons and measure it up haha 1nz piston has a compression height of 27.5mm (top of piston to centre of pin) Ideally find something with a slightly higher number so I could machine the top to get the compression ratio right. If the compression height number is lower, it will drop CR too much. Might be worth buying one of those pistons to have a look though. I'd need to press out the bronze bush in the rod and refit one for a 17mm pin instead of 18mm. Or hone the pistons to suit 18mm pin. But I'm guessing the bike one will be strong enough and probably lighter.
  4. Oh yeah so about $1000nzd, not too bad I guess. Maybe closer to 1300 after tax and shipping. But 15:1, sweet I can run it as a diesel too haha! Yeah it looks like Honda D16 motor, Suzuki vitara motor, and 4efte are possible similar options with similar pin and bore size. But people normally put the strong vitara pistons in the d16 motor and make 400hp. But the horsepower load on a cast piston is different to the rpm trying to pull the piston apart.
  5. Yeah the lads in Thailand sell forged pistons in whatever CR you request. Up to 15:1 But they're pretty spendy. (Compared to rest of project) heh However my Dad has ordered a 4 axis cnc that will arrive probably in a few months. Pistons and/or rods might be feasible projects eventually. But start with some easier stuff while learning. Could maybe do a cnc port job as well, not as well as a 5 axis but would be cool. But gonna be a learning curve.
  6. I've found on proper drag tyres everything feels considerably less abusive on drive train! Wheel hop is the #1 killer I reckon. Big shock loads over and over. Don't get that so bad on squishy drag tyres
  7. Even if i was a casting master, and i know absolutely nothing about it. There would be no benefit if current pistons are at the strength limit of cast material without forging. And there's no way to DIY forging as best I know. Machined from billet might be an option, or see if anyone sells unmachined forged blanks that are close enough. However I'm also not sure how much stronger billet would be.
  8. What did that rev to? Being able to rev the piss out of something can make a decent difference haha
  9. Yeah your car is literally twice as heavy as anything that suits a 1.5 litre engine hahaha. But cos it's a laugh, here we are. Alright so this is all of the above data, no weights changed but just engines swapped. Still auto trans and a 3.3 final drive. NA 1NZFE, since this is the least suitable option I'm assuming it's doorty so 160hp @ 8000rpm with 9000 limiter. Turbo 1NZFE 300hp @ 8000, 9000rpm limit NA K24A is the best standard power version, 204hp 7600 limiter Turbo K24A is 300hp @ 7000rpm 7600 limiter If you want to try any of these numbers a bit different, let me know
  10. If you're planning on using the 4 speed auto it's going to be pretty punishing with that 1st to 2nd gear gap. Also the final drive ratio in the 3.something is going to reaaaalllllyyy kill a smaller motor. Are there any options in the high 3 or low 4 to 1 region for final drive?
  11. How much do these weigh? Find this information for me, and I'll send you back some dataz on predictions for how each version of the car will run With an NA K24, turbo K24, NA 1NZ, turbo 1NZ
  12. I think you could be right about that. If the piston is trying to fly apart, where the top of the piston is trying to carry on upwards, and the pin is pulling it back down. So the material strength around the pin is the weakness. Then on the exhaust stroke this force is lessened, and when the cylinder is full, on the compression stroke this force is lessened too. The engine didnt fail when it was approaching max rpm, it failed just after a gear shift where throttle got cut to zero. So the worst case scenario would be zero throttle, high vacuum, high rpm on the compression stroke. I'm not sure if these forces are on the same magnitude as each other though. However, I can indeed increase my piston return spring value. I can use e-throttle to set a minimum high rpm throttle value to something like 10% or 20%, and then use a fuel cut and/or pull zillions of ignition timing out to cut power instead. This might bring a host of its own issues, but might be a bodgey solution I guess haha. Flat shifting, interestingly enough, would also help haha. The incredibly clever @Lith made a calculator ages ago that works out forces on pistons/rods. Entering 1NZ stuff. Peak accelleration on the piston at 9000rpm is 4991G! I'm not sure what sort of numbers I was expecting, but thats bloody lots. Then the PEAK piston speed is 41.7 meters per second. Which is 8200 feet per minute. Which is zillions high when 3500fpm is the reccomended mean value.
  13. When I was a kid, my Mum taught me that it was rude to take basically anything offered to us kids when we went somewhere. So we go to someone's house, and they're expecting us, so they've made some chocolate biscuits especially for us to eat. Which are the best thing ever because I'm like 8 years old. Fucking delicious! However. I'd been conditioned to say "No thank you" because doing otherwise was rude. For the person who baked something especially for us arriving, it's was disappointing that no one wanted their food. "How could kids not want delicious my biscuits?" "Are they especially bad?" "What did I do wrong?" How could my Mum not understand how mutually disappointing this situation was? It didnt make any sense to me then, and I've still no idea who profited from this situation. The people were happy to give me a biscuit, and I was happy to eat it. Surely this is the worlds simplest situation to keep everyone happy. I fucking love biscuits, and it tears me up thinking how many I missed out on, at the stage of my life when they were the most delicious. God damn. For some reason, tonight I have had a revelation that refusing willing help from people here draws parallels to this situation. I have been conditioned to feel shameful about accepting assistance that's willingly offered. Why? So for anyone who's willing to chip in a few bucks, I can promise you this: I'll spend any contributions towards a Prius motor, and maybe exhaust parts. I will not spend any contributed money on psychological counselling for my unresolved childhood trauma about missing out on biscuits. I also promise I will come to your house and eat your biscuits if you invite me over. https://givealittle.co.nz/cause/finding-a-cure-for-the-atkinson-cycle Thanks to anyone that wants to help, and by all means dont anyone feel obligated.
  14. Sorry will take a better picture. But on the other side, it's a break through all of the holes. Yeah it's pretty hard to know cause or effect though. If I can't find the wrist pin in the sump I might go for a walk near where it blew up and see if I can find it haha. But I just wonder, if it was the rod that broke first, how do you end up with damage like that? Like the pin has been pulled out downwards rather than smashed up by a broken rod.
  15. "In a high performance application 3500 FPM can be used since the burst at that speed will be short in duration" 9000RPM 1NZ is 5000fpm hahaha I know it's probably a different kettle of fish for tiny pistons compared to V8 stuff, but... yeah. It's getting up there.
  16. Finally had some time to get the old motor out. I was busy just dealing with the nuts and bolts of the situation, undoing things etc... It wasnt until the motor was completely out, that I had a look at the back side of the block and had a hearty chuckle So I got the motor and gearbox out, split the gearbox off. Then I wanted to get the piston and the top half of the rod out, to see if there's any evidence of how/why the rod broke. So I used an extension bar and tapped the piston up until it popped out. Well, part of it anyway... And then I laughed some more, oh man, I wasnt expecting that carnage! I cant find the wrist pin or the top of the rod anywhere. I suspect I might have to go for a long walk up the road to go find it. So one concerning thing about this, is now I'm not sure what broke first. If the rod broke and caused the damage, that's fine. Easy, just put stronger rods in. But it looks like the piston broke along the line of the oil return holes from the oil control rings: Which maybe makes me think that the piston sorta... fell in half. Then caused rod carnage. However I'm thinking this is less likely, based on the lack of damage to the cylinder head. Either way, it might be a good idea to drill some tiny chamfers on the oil holes next time for stress relief. But I'm not sure if you can get a drill anywhere near it while the piston is intact. So, hopefully the rods are the problem and not this haha. Maybe the remaining 3 pistons and rods might show some extra clues.
  17. After that collector it's basically a straight run. Could probably easy-ishly convert it to a long 4-1 or 4-2-1 The cat converter normally starts fairly close to where this is cut off. Which is interesting because my understanding is the idea of the short 4-1 design is to get heat into the cat converter quicker. but it's not right up against the extractors. Maybe a single pipe just loses a lot less heat than 4 small ones. EDIT: That reminds me I've seen this mentioned somewhere before. This was in a paper about the 2ZZ motor. Interesting to see how much heat is lost by having individual pipes in a 2-1 section. Also the power losses from having a gap in the flexy join to the 2-1 section. 4kw loss for a 4mm gap!
  18. Yeah I've got the ebay headers here but they were gross. Larger diameter runners but didnt make any difference, and had other issues such as leaking from everywhere possible. Touching the gearbox cables. Rigid mounting the flexi join via stupid design. I dont have any welding skills or equipment so V1.0 of the exhaust will definitely just be from those standard extractors back. Ideally would be much longer length, but the diameter of the standard ones are fine for the port size.
  19. Thanks to everyone that has offered. I'm obviously not above accepting charity, as I've been on the receiving end of an incredible amount of it to get this far with things. it's very humbling that anyone would want to help pay for another engine. However I'll be happy to play around with the 1300cc setup for a while. I found all of the 2NZ motor parts needed, I thought I might have thrown some of them out. It looks like all I need is the right length PK belt to suit the addition of the mechanical water pump. Then it'll be good to go once I've swapped the flywheel and clutch over. I havent pulled the old block and the gearbox out yet, but it's not too much work left. The intake manifold has no issues with having the alternator in the high mounted position. The dipstick very nearly fits in the correct spot too. But not quite. I've taken out my VVTI travel stopper, and set the cam to the proper position instead of 1 tooth back. I have confirmed that with the cam in the correct place there are no piston / valve issues. One benefit of the 1300 motor is that there's a little bit more room for the intake, as the block is shorter. So it all sits lower in the engine bay. Looking forward to it!
  20. I got the head off today. A rough timeline of events, based on evidence: -Cylinder 2 rod went asplode -Lower part of the broken rod smashed the engine block, front and rear. -The still full throttle engine, probably thanks to my new intake design that has runners pointing to this area (haha damnit) sucked a piece of debris into cylinder 4. -Cylinder 2 piston rotated in the bore slightly while near TDC, and was bonked by one of the intake valves to push it back down a bit. (with very little resistance, as no rod) -No rod left to push it back up, so stayed there and no further damage to #2 valves or head. -The debris that entered cylinder 4 got conked between the piston and the head. Luckily, the piston material took the brunt of it, and it buried mostly into the piston rather than into the head. -Small dent left in the head on cyl 4, straight looking valves everywhere. But will do a leak test on all of them. As possible damage on cyl 2 valves. Project smallblock still looks good to go, so long as I can find all of the 2NZ related bits! The cams are 100% fine, and the head looks 99% fine. I'll give it a good clean out to make sure no debris entered the oil passages. But no evidence of that which I can see. Probably because one of the main oil supply galleries was busted by the conrod, around about the same time as the oil filter said Bon Voyage. Piston #4 close up: Small dent on the head. Will smooth the edges so it wont cause knock. Feeling pretty lucky!
  21. Sorry - fixed it Yeah one of the local guys who rallies 2NZ motors says they eventually break if you keep them going to 8000rpm. So a 10k motor would be on a very limited lifespan without strong rods haha. then there are issues like the oil pump wanting to explode, and so on!
  22. Nah no 2NZ rods available, and I'm fairly doubtful that all of my current pistons would be usable. Some of the bore is missing down the bottom on cylinder 2, so piston might have copped some damage. As well as the entirety of the oil filter and it's housing is AWOL haha Some good news while I've been stripping the motor down though, I found some of the rattles. The rear engine mount bolt has been vibrating itself loose, and my upper half of the alternator bracket had broken. So I think one or the other of those was making the recent noise, not the clutch or gearbox. So that's good news.
  23. Did someone say graph? No? Too bad Yeah would be a 1300cc rev monster. A 1NZFE has a mean piston speed of 25.4 meters per second at 9000rpm. A 2NZ at 25.4 meters per second would be revving to 10,350rpm, and the mega long rod motor would be able to deal with it a little better. Doesnt mean its possible to rev a 2NZ that high without other issues though. But it would certainly be glorious! haha Also as another reference point, an S2000 motor that is built from factory to go 9000rpm. Has a stroke length of 84mm (vs 84.7 for 1NZ) then a much larger bore to acheive 2 litres. S2000 F20C motor has a rod/stroke ratio of 1.82
  24. So long as the current head and valves are okay (find out soon!) Then small blocking it will be a good short term solution. Which might show some interesting results. So long as I can find the 2nz specific parts I need,like the shorter timing chain. where ever I put them. Will need to give the head a pretty decent check for debris in the oil circuit though. If the head is stuffed then I need to buy a new motor either way. Been busy but will get it off this coming week.
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