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Everything posted by Roman

  1. What are your current options for load axis? You could use effective injector pulsewidth as a similar-ish thing.
  2. Similar to any MAF based approach I guess, with my other car using a maf both of the tables have "air per cyl measured" as the load axis. Id just never considered using a different load axis for each of the tables. But it makes some sense for Alpha N and maybe MAP too.
  3. Ahh I forgot to say that one of the benefits of this, is that the shape of your ignition table doesnt have to follow the weird shape of the fuel table, that is weird because airflow through a butterfly valve is weird. Because its just looking at how full the cylinder is, it doesnt care what the throttle angle is (which makes sense) So the ignition table becomes a lot more linear, it doesnt need an aggressive ramp up of timing around the "knee" point where load drops off really quickly at a particular throttle angle. It also means, for better or worse that if you make any changes that
  4. I've been spending some time with ITB Alpha N setup on the Echo. It drives much nicer than I'd expect, and stays near to tune much nicer than I'd expect too. I've just tried something different though. Which is instead of having throttle position as the load axis on both fuel and ignition tables. I have TPS as load axis on fuel, then the fuel table calculations work out the airmass in the cylinder. (so this incorporates barometric pressure, IAT, etc automagically) Then I use air mass in the cylinder as the load axis for ignition timing. So this means if you are at 100% thrott
  5. Look forward to seeing how that dash turns out! It's massively underrated to have a dash (and/or ECU) that can just flash "stop the car, idiot!" in your face instead of having to interpret constantly sweeping gauges while you're concentrating on barrelling down the track at way to fast o-clock. I'm still chuffed on your behalf for getting a 12, thats friggen sweet.
  6. Haha there must be only one person in japan designing all of the oem manifolds.
  7. This is all coming together nicely! Good work on that ducting, looks great. Nice idea having those foldable tabs on the curved part. And yeah it can sometimes be surprising how little thought goes into some aftermarket parts! Love the bussmann boxes I'll definitely not bother mucking around with big DIY relay/fuse boards etc anymore.
  9. What was best time of the day @ajg193 ? Good to meet you, and hearty pat on the back for coming all that way and back. Impressive!
  10. Some of the resin used can shrink over time, but also some moulds especially for bumpers etc are made from a copy of a copy of a copy of a copy of an original part. So you get a big dimensional "creep" if every copy is say 1mm out from the original haha. Many moons ago a friend bought a replica TRD widebody SW20 kit for "cheap" Which was fucking abysmal, like dimensionally wrong to unusable levels on every part. It was like it was made for a 3/4 scale car. He then spent a fortune persisting with it, and ended up with it still looking like shit. Then sold the car as an unfinished
  11. These days theres no way I would bother cutting springs to try get a given spring rate. When it so easy/cheap to get coilover springs anyway. Usually have an ask around and someones got some tucked away left over from swapping their own to a different rate. But the point still stands about how a spring works, cutting springs isnt an instant death sentence or blows the laws of physics to smithereens.
  12. Jesus what does that flywheel weigh?
  13. I had a nissan of that era, needed to download this russian app to get it to connect but it could work. But it doesnt work with the usual ones like Torque or whatever as it's got its own protocol or some crap like that.
  14. Cooling the oil can lessen the load on the radiator, as you get a lot of oil > coolant heat transfer Oil gets to a lot of hotter places that coolant doesnt, and then transfers into the coolant via block And yeah if you have a trans cooler that's using the radiator bottom tank then biff that too for an air cooler
  15. I'm hugely grateful that Dad comes along and participates in things, he was super chuffed to get the Century out there. It still blows me away that these things are in any way shape or form, affordable and accessable. However his PB is still definitely with the JZX90 which is a low 14. and the blue skittle The wind noise doesnt quite capture the racket coming out of it, but a vid's a vid:
  16. Fuck yeah! Awesome 60 foot time! Was it hooking up like that all day, or dialled it in a bit?
  17. It held together and nothing broke - home safe Stoked with how things went, improved PB by 1.2 seconds to a 16.4 Only did 6 runs as it was clear I wasnt going to go groundbreakingly faster. But using the rule of thumb of " 0.1 off your 60ft is worth 0.2 off your 1/4 time" If I combined my best 60foot with best quarter I'd ideally end up somewhere under 16.3 which I think is pretty sweet for a 1300cc echo haha. But I was more worried about getting home okay this time so was minimal on burnouts off the line which might have helped. A++ would make drag day doort noises and e
  18. I pay more mortgage faster than I should so I can pay it off quicker I wear safety glasses when I'm doing stuff I sedately drove around a Nissan Wingroad work car I drive a Toyota Echo and then decided not to do fun stuff with it because that's a sensible idea too now that my work car blew up I draw graphs for a hobby I MAKE ALL THESE SACRAFICES TO THE GODS OF SENSIBLE AND WHAT DO I GET BACK MISERY! MISERY I SAY! HOW SENSIBLE CAN ONE MAN BE TIME FOR SOME BAD DECISIONS / DRAGS I jizzed up my shitty manifold with some carbon to hold it together for a bit
  19. Just press it on without the magnets and clicks in place
  20. Just to follow up, I'd been massively overthinking the complexity of this job. (with head on the bench off motor) Step 1: place stuff under the valves to stop them moving/bending Step 2: place a 19mm socket with a magnetic thing on the inside, on top of the retainer Step 3: hit it with the hammer step 4: Valve retainer thing is off Too easy Now to try the rope trick and get a knot stuck in it Might try on a pick a part engine first haha.
  21. It's not ideal, haha. But it's only at idle where there's a tiny amount of air and fuel anyway so total heat isnt huge I guess. Definitely makes it a bit noisier... Not very economical. Good Heavens.
  22. Yeah I've been concentrating on that a bit lately, as it's easy to end up with a really jumpy sort of car. At the moment because I dont have IACV connected it's using closed loop ignition timing to pull the rpm down, so it sits at like 15deg ATDC to idle But as soon as you come out of idle mode by pushing throttle it goes straight to say 10deg so its a big jump. Same as areas with a change in AFR goal, now I blend it out smoothly so you dont get weird shit if you're ever hovering just one side or other of a change from say 15.2:1 to 12.8:1 or whatever haha.
  23. Question for you @kpr You used to do a lot of road/track tuning with a few different techniques. But now that youve had a dyno for ages. Are there any areas which have given big surprises, as in, visible via dyno but very hard to quantify the old way? If you lost your dyno, what are the bits you couldnt do anymore, or what would you most miss. Just from tuning perspective rather than excellent addition to videos.
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