Roman

Maybe a RWD 1NZ, definitely wouldnt put an older motor into one. I think @GARDRB might be right though All of the Toyota engines with a 7 in the title are cursed to be absolute turds 7K 7AFE 7MGE 7-4GRFSE

Yeah just saw that today, cool vid!

Ever noticed how a lot of race classes would ban EFI but no one ever banned carbs... Probably because they're happy for you to participate and come last.

Hes happily ignorant and wont ever change his mind.

I need to keep it pinned get some good data from it That's my story and I'm sticking to it But yep its working at the right frequencies now. So mufflers can hopefully do the right job from here. With X pipe: Compared to drags:

Since my old 2-1 section was laying there, I welded a flange on right at the join. Then mounted it backwards onto my new 2-1 so its an X pipe of sorts. This is definitely the winner so far, no mufflers yet though. But a reasonable difference in sound. Still sounds grot but it's heading in the right direction. Will definitely do X pipe. Compared to how it started

Top work! Insane to have it going that well on just first runs. Pity its hard to quantify the difference of the raised port on its own. But either way its awesome.

Is the bro using marshmallows for engine mounts? haha Looks like hes close to yanking an ignition lead off. Yeah that car sounds pretty good

Alright, so had to pause on the airbox stuff because my ethrottle motor shit itself again. As I'm not sure how new system would work they might clash with airboxes. However, I found some similar motors to my existing ones. But from RS components instead of aliexpress. They have motors of similar design to the ones I'm using, but they better list the specs including max current. My existing motors are rated to 1.2 amps, where as ethrottle will push out around 2 amps at max. So I found some replacements that are rated to 2.8 amps. So fingers crossed thats going to fix the problem. Next thing, is that my motor still sounds quite rough and not very "v6 smooth" kinda thing. I've been wondering if the small amount of imbalance in 2-1 section is the cause, and if so, how I could test that. Since my engine has VVT on the exhaust side, I can adjust the timing of when the exhaust valves open. Usually all at once, but if I unplug one side. then I can move the opening/closing timing and see if it eliminates the imbalance. I am guessing there are only a few degrees of imbalance, but I can swing it by around 40 crank degrees which is huge. So I did this, and the motor seemed really insensitive to it. Apart from starting to glug when you retarded the cam too far. So is something else wrong? I unplughed all of the coilpacks 1 by 1 while the motor idled. It turns out that cylinder 1 and cylinder 6 both have bad coilpacks. So I replace these, and now the motor is back to firing up near first crank instead of taking ages. Then also sounds a bit different. So here is were we are at with the 2-1 section finished, and a 300mm long straight through muffler stuffed on the back for testing. But all coilpacks working ha. There's no pipe length after the muffler itself at this point. Doesnt sound particularly pleasing to the ear and its also still god awful loud. Howeverrrrrrrr its making the right sort of noises to start with, that can be beaten into shape so that's good. So I think the 2-1 section is good now. So I can work on beating the rest of it into shape from here. This is the plan roughly: The two main ways I can adjust it a bit are with muffler dimensions and adding a helmholtz/branch resonator. Adjusting the muffler controls the high pitch stuff, and overall volume of the system. Adjusting a branch resonator can eliminate an annoying drone or idle noise. There's a program called Audacity that is a free download, than can show you a frequency plot but also do a bunch of other stuff. So looking at a plot from this can give you an idea of which frequency you need to eliminate if wanting to do a branch resonator. But what is also handy is that you can use the graphic equalizer in the program to eliminate that frequency first and then play the noise back. So you can see what sort of change it would make before committing to it.

Excellent article, my only issue is that someone says "legos" as the plural of lego. GTFO

I started out with an innovate controller and a 4.2 Then I was blowing up sensors left right and center. Someone said to buy the upgraded version (or whatever, cant remember) so I could run the 4.9 sensor. I think 3 hours was the fastest one died. Then I bought a super expensive controller that someone reccomended, still blowing them up. Was super fucked off. At some point along the way I figured out that it was mostly cold starts killing them. Because the Innovate instructions tell you to have the sensor wired up so that it NEVER runs the engine without the sensor going. So I was hot sensor/cold start nuking them. ffs. Thennnnnnnn I bought a spartan controller with LSU-ADV. Have not blown up a single sensor no matter what I've done with it. The only time I've had an issue was one sensor got badly cross threaded so needed replacement. I shudder to think how much money I wasted on controllers and sensors because they kept blowing up (and innovate had no mention of the cold start issue, fuck you innovate)

Slow progress on the exhaust, but I've manage to cobble together a 2-1 section that is nearly equal (Still needs about 75mm more, on the wiggly side) After the 2-1 join it'll revert back to a single 3" pipe and a single barrel muffler for now. Here's a neighbor's horses awakeness test with the 2-1 mostly finished. I think I've cured the 3 cyl sound at least. So its a good starting point, can hopefully fine tune it from there without having to stuff around with that part anymore. Will just have a single 3" pipe from there back, and a single barrel shaped muffler. Theennnnnnnnn I need to get some air filters on at some point. Now that I know what the runner length is going to be, more or less. can plan an airbox. After an extensive amount of fucking around with test prints and so on, have got an airbox shape sorted. I'm thinking the red backing plate bits will be alloy plate (less the radius shown) then can hopefully get a nice hidden detail with cap screws coming in from the back (rather than studs) It took 30 something hours to print the two parts, not including the 2x failed attempts due to powercuts. I was initially planning to just print PLA and then wrap in carbon. But, I think I'll try make some proper molds this time and try get a nice surface finish. Then maybe just wet layup on the inside. not sure yet. Just get this bit finished first. Sanding sucks. Please ignore the fact that I say this is about fitting air filters, yet have no obvious way to fit an air filter to this so far.

Yep same as w box. There are two positions on the factory box for the shifter, easy to flip it to use the front set of holes. Otherwise sq engineering etc sell kits tbat move it way forward.

How far away is your wideband from your narrow band? Could it be that you have an air leak ahead of wideband, but after the narrow band (or vice versa) which makes the difference in readings. As that would be most prominent at low load.

Found a page about the G4 Atom, says this: Communications Tuning Port USB via adapter cable supplied Serial RS232 via adapter cable available separately CAN - Connector and replacement front plate available separately So it's likely that you can connect up those wires and it'll work, so long as in pclink it allows you to configure CAN for it. It's likely that you've got two canbus channels there, and it'll be two pairs of can high and can low. If you solder or otherwise attach a pair of wires and then put a 120 ohm resistor on the end. You should see one sides voltage go high and the other side go low, when it's sending something. Or just hook up a can device and see if it works, then swap the wires around if it doesnt.

How does the ignition table work? RPM and mass airflow as axis?

At what rpm? If you were doing 7000rpm 22 deg is probably alright. bit lean though

True but then what else is he ever going to do with a 4M thats sitting around? Early ECUs are so punishing to deal with that I think I'd rather have a carb too.

Nice touch having the period correct tyres

One good thing about a C series box is that they come with a massive variety of front bellhousings/casings. I think they're mostly interchangable. So if the bellhousing pattern isnt suitable, you might be able to find a different C box that works a little better. Also cheap and easy LSDs available and so on.

I think the injectors in there at the moment are "3/4 length" (ish) but I need the long pintle. Those 980s would be sweet but looks like a shorter body length, which is problematic for my fuel rail situation. It looks like these might be a good option. Maybe I'll just buy one for starters as a test fit.

Adding a support will be fairly easy. I've currently just got a big hole exposing the flywheel down low, so really need to do something about that either way. I could probably chop up the rear part of a factory sump to make a brace. These gearboxes have this reverse pivot lever thingy, that just sits in place until you push a pin through from the outside of the casing. So the ways to hold it in place until the pin is in. Are either with a rubber band, or some very thick grease. Then pray that you dont knock it off when you push the pin through. If you knock it off, you have to redo the casing sealant. so its a pain. I've ended up using a few rubberbands to hold it in place. So its possible that this is relevant. When I put the old casing back on the front, I didnt have the reverse lever in place or rubber bands on it. So I've got a few things to test and eliminate as variables. The welding wasnt done right up against the face of the gearbox that the bearings etc mount into. There was still say 20mm of more of the original bellhousing there. But, yeah. It's possible. Not sure how to fix it if that's the problem though. Maybe I should have had it bolted to the other half of the gearbox casing while it was welded. It's also maybe possible that my input shaft is bottoming out into the rear of the crank or something. I've got a few methodical steps to test. But the main problem is that you can move the lever through all the gears. Then sometimes it will get to a gear and only shift half way, but it the lever is stuck solid. If you pull it back out of gear then in again, sometimes that will now work. Or need to select another gear then back to it. My fuel pressure is already quite high, think its 53psi. So turns the 300cc injectors into 330cc compared to running them at 40ish. So I think I definitely do need something extra.

Ethrottle fix I bought some different ethrottle motors that have a higher ratio gearbox on the front. So it can only move slower, but has better holding torque. So far so good, still really snappy on throttle. But now it only needs between 10-20% duty cycle to hold the throttle at any position. Previously at some points was near 50%. I changed the bracket design so rather than being single piece. They're two separate ones which slide onto a carbon fiber shaft. So there are no issues with the centers being off. Works well, I have had it on a test mode all afternoon spamming throttle open and closed a whole bunch. I've also got the Toyota TPSs mounted on properly now, and its much much much better. I've now got super aggressive PID settings and it's all working great. Exhaust stuff For the exhaust revisions, first thing was cutting off the extension part of my manifolds, and putting a V band on. So they're easier to get in and out of the car, and also a lot easier to get test sections off and on. A lot of people warned me about warping the flanges, so did it with the other half bolted on and slowly stitched around it while letting it cool a bit. Seems good so far. The next step was to do some open header limmy bashing to make sure the neighbors horses are awake. Will be interesting to do the same test once the 2-1 section is on there. For science, of course. I am just going straight to making a 2-1 section instead of the chatgpt suggested dual 3-1 scheme. Like it would be interesting to see if it works but my patience is wearing thin for exhaust stuff at the moment. Watching the video of the Stratos with the discrete 3-1 pipes vs the 6-1 and its absolutely no contest. The 6-1 sounds wild by comparison. I will still be taking onboard its suggestions about muffler type/length/etc. I started making a shallower angle 2-1 section. With about a 12 deg angle this time instead of about 45 deg. I've not had much luck trying to do cuts like this on the right angle and line, so printed a template that showed where to cut but also the angle to hold the grinder up against. Worked pretty good. It was a real bastard trying to weld up the gap in the middle though. It will probably still leak right at the top. haha. Then my next problem is trying to get the 2-1 section equal. So one bank is further back than the other, adding to this is that my manifold design is different each side. So the collectors are at different distances back. The Vband on each of these bolts on to the collector, then I marked where the pipes line up with the gearbox crossmember. So I can get an idea of the difference. So I need to squeeze about 140mm into one side prior to the 2-1 merge. Will take a bit of stuffing around. But hopefully worth it. Injector issues Something else that is annoying after reviewing things from the drags. My injectors are at 96% duty at 9750rpm. So absolutely completely out of injector. "They say" you should aim to not exceed 85% duty cycle. I'm now getting to 85% at only 7500rpm. So definitely need new injectors now. With my old intake, I was only getting to 80% duty right at the limiter. Only 68% duty cycle at 7500. So a big difference. These are around 330cc at the fuel pressure I'm running, and so its chugging down about 1.7 litres per minute at full steam. Annoyingly the BMW V10 uses a non standard injector length, and has a longer than usual pintle on the front. So it might be a bit of a pain finding some bigger injectors. But need to figure it out. Not the worst problem in the world to have? As it means the engine should actually be making some alright power now. Gearbox issues I pulled my other gearbox out as it wasnt shifting properly, and the problem would happen even when the motor was off. When putting the factory 3S bellhousing back on, the old gearbox now works fine. So I'm thinking there are a few possible issues... 1. When using a rubberband to hold the reverse fork thing on, this could be causing the issue. Maybe. 2. The weight of motor and gearbox is flexing the bellhousing because I've got no bolts around the bottom. Will test this by jacking it up by the center and see if anything changes. 3. The bellhousing welding warped the front casing slightly. apparently it takes hardly anything, to pull the shift forks or front bearings out of alignment and cause issues. 4. Something else. Will pull the motor and gearbox back out once I've finished with exhaust stuff, and do some more testing. Hopefully there's an easy-ish fix, but it was interesting to see that the factory bellhousing back on, fixed the problem.

Yeah the main advantage of the ADV setup is that they are bomb proof. I've probably bought 6 or 7 4.9 sensors over the years because they would just crap out. Since switching to ADV, have only replaced one once. Which is because it broke the housing when I was trying to get it out of a seized thread in the exhaust. So the good news is, your problem is 99% likely to be a bad sensor rather than the controller. The bad news is, it'll probably happen again at some point if you get another 4.9. If your controller can run an ADV sensor, I'd buy one of those. Even if slightly more expensive, saves a bunch of $$ in the long run. The number one thing that helped me get 4.9 sensors to last longer, was putting them on an ECU controlled relay. So that they wouldnt turn on until the engine was warm. The cold start thing that KPR mentions above was the #1 killer for me.

Another option is that the steering rack doesnt need to be low for any reason. Can put it and the steering arm higher if it helps packaging. Like on a dc5 or what they did with Binky