h4nd Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 Anyone got info on these dual fuel carbs? (diagrams / theory of operation etc?) I'm pondering if they'd meter hydrogen. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/lawnmowers/parts-accessories/listing/5006589801 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 at least we on pg. 327 for some sbc goodness 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 WOF failed because seatbelt vehicle-sensitive retractor not engaging (which I didn't even know was a thing until now) so apparently it's a little intertia pendulum device, is it worth cracking the retractor open and having a dig around or is it the sort of thing where if they fail, it's because they're totally fucked? there's a second hand one on trademe so not totally desperate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 4 minutes ago, gibbon said: WOF failed because seatbelt vehicle-sensitive retractor not engaging (which I didn't even know was a thing until now) so apparently it's a little intertia pendulum device, is it worth cracking the retractor open and having a dig around or is it the sort of thing where if they fail, it's because they're totally fucked? there's a second hand one on trademe so not totally desperate some are angle specific, and won't operate correctly if installed incorrectly. loosen anchor bolt and adjust to see if it corrects its misbehaviour  1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 18 minutes ago, gibbon said: WOF failed because seatbelt vehicle-sensitive retractor not engaging (which I didn't even know was a thing until now) so apparently it's a little intertia pendulum device, is it worth cracking the retractor open and having a dig around or is it the sort of thing where if they fail, it's because they're totally fucked? there's a second hand one on trademe so not totally desperate They generally say 'do not open' on them. It's not something I'd try to fix. I had a retractor fail just recently, ended up buying a new pair for the front seats - wasn't too bad on price considering they had coloured belts, about $350 for the pair, from Seatbelt Sales  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 1 hour ago, Nominal said: They generally say 'do not open' on them. It's not something I'd try to fix. I had a retractor fail just recently, ended up buying a new pair for the front seats - wasn't too bad on price considering they had coloured belts, about $350 for the pair, from Seatbelt Sales  thanks for the lead on that, seatbelt sales have given me a suspiciously good price ($185), but want my belt in exchange... did they ask the same of you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 16 minutes ago, gibbon said: thanks for the lead on that, seatbelt sales have given me a suspiciously good price ($185), but want my belt in exchange... did they ask the same of you? Not for mine, but mine were already aftermarket ones, not factory originals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 how does VTNZ test the inertia belt system on their rolling road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 1 hour ago, gibbon said: how does VTNZ test the inertia belt system on their rolling road? Maybe they jack up the rear of the vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 well I disregarded all advice and popped the side cover off, the wee wobble-cone (sorry, the "inertial actuator-cam") seems to push the ratchet tang up with very little encouraging so I'm not too sure what the problem is, maybe the WOF man didn't put the foot in hard enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 On 31/10/2024 at 19:02, kws said: Anyone got experience with VH44 remote boosters? I'm looking to add one to the Marina once it's on the road as unboosted brakes are a bit too... manly... for me. I see there are HEAPS of Chinese knockoff ones available, including from "reputable" classic car sellers locally, am I right in my thinking that I'd be better off getting a recon original one, than trust my life with a Chinese one? Or am I just being silly and it'll be fine? like, there is this which I presume is just a Chinese one, https://classiccarparts.co.nz/brake-booster-servo-kit-remote-single-line-1-:-1.9-aftermarket-tt3949z?search=servo&description=true And on the other end of the scale of Chinese ones, https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/brakes/listing/4985996566 CBC often lists original ones they have rebuilt, which come at a much higher cost, https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/other-accessories/listing/4986494157 I had a lot to do with brake boosters in the early 80’s working for an authorized PBR agent in Queensland and then setting up a booster repair department and training staff for APPCO Brake & Clutch on my return to NZ. The original VH44’s were built by PBR in Australia; they were prone to push rod seal failure which is the archilles heel of most inline (Hydrovac) boosters. The casting and the aluminium used on the slave cylinder wasn’t very flash and yes the bores did wear. On the plus side they were cheap to make, readily available and in their day were a big improvement on the earlier style of boosters. We were originally re-sleeving them in brass using an interference fit but then stainless steel sleeves became the norm and they were glued in. The problem with re-sleeving was that the circlip groove that retained the push rod seal bush was cut into the sleeve and once in a blue moon the sleeve would crack where the groove had weakened it resulting in the total loss of brakes - in a single circuit system! I recently fitted a new aftermarket (presumably Chinese) VH44 to a mates MGBGT. Being a suspicious, cynical old bastard I stripped it down for a look-see and found it to be quite a faithful copy that did not vary in any way from the original. I obviously had no way of knowing the quality of the rubber components but they looked the part and I suspect most of the brake seals we buy this day come from China? Have to say when fitted, I was pleased with the result. My advice would be to pass on the remanufactured one and go with the cheap Chinese knockoff.  I’ll also point out the 1st link in your post, (Hawkswood Car Parts are a great company by the way) is not a VH44- it’s the English Lockheed equivalent that was fitted in NZ to a million and one Hillman Hunters and many other Pommy cars. Slightly less boost and the plastic control valve assembly just clipped together and did not grow old gracefully! Hope this helps. 4 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted November 17 Share Posted November 17 I've had the fuel tank out of my wagon for some repairs, it's ready to go back in but I'm not sure what product to use as a seal between the tank and the body. There was a sticky non setting goo there originally as far as I can tell and the manual recommends renewing the "caulking cord" but I can't find any products with similar names that don't appear to be specifically for windows. Can anyone recommend something for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted November 17 Share Posted November 17 Non hardening mastic Something like this https://www.glasscorp.co.nz/shop/Autoglass/Adhesives+Sealants+and+Primers/Windscreen+Sealants/BOSTIK+5614+MASTIC+WINDSCREEN+SEALER.html  If you wanted it in a strip https://www.affordablecaravans.co.nz/Caravan-parts-store/Repairs-Maintenance-products/Mastic/MASTIC-W4-SEALING-STRIP Something like that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted November 17 Share Posted November 17 This is what I use for that sort of thing https://www.wyatt.co.nz/shop/Repair/Adhesives++Sealers/Pro+Form+Dum+Dum+Strip+Caulk.html  1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 20 Share Posted November 20 Can anyone recommend a low pressure regulated fuel pump? I am getting low end overfuelling issues, I talked to Weber Specialists and he reckoned it had to be coming from high fuel pressure. He said DCNF's like 2.5psi. So I bought a cheapy gauge and a shithouse reg off AliX, and all I could get was 4.5 to 5psi out of the facet type pump installed. I am guessing the reg needs a higher input pressure to work effectively, but it is kindof terrible so I thought it might be better to get something proper. Â Any suggestions? Can you mod the facet for lower pressure by messing with the springs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 I used a fuel flow pump with good results when I was running bike carbs on my 120y. A bit noisey (although i had no return) but otherwise no issues. Looks like they may have been through a recreation as they are now fuelflow2020. https://fuelflow2020.nz I had the yellow one, 0.5-2psi. Edit - Not regulated tho. Woops.      Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 lols was going to suggest that one too.  wouldnt need to be regulated if thats all it actually pumps out tho? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 Yea If I can set it to the right(ish) pressure i don't care about the regulator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 13 minutes ago, Beaver said: I used a fuel flow pump with good results when I was running bike carbs on my 120y. A bit noisey (although i had no return) but otherwise no issues. Looks like they may have been through a recreation as they are now fuelflow2020. https://fuelflow2020.nz I had the yellow one, 0.5-2psi. Edit - Not regulated tho. Woops.  Thats the one I just enquired about ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 Actually i just had a think about it. There is a return to the tank but i am not using it, so maybe i should set it up with a return and a restrictor, which will probably reduce the pressure to more reasonable levels. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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