ThePog

I managed to hook up to my NAS after installing win11, but in a way I didn't understand nor can replicate.

I got the tyre with the slow leak sorted (which was a valve), then though I would have a look at the front struts. These have a flat hardened steel washer running on a fiber type bush to provide the steering swivelling action, and these clag up and stop spinning freely. I thought the steering was a wee bit heavier at slow speeds than I though it should be, although some of this is the wider rubber I have on. Anyway it was probably time. I borrowed a set of spring compressors off @Willdat? to make the process a wee bit safer.. what a good man he is. While unbolting the passenger strut and moving the wheel position to get bolt access the drivers side strut was making some funny noises..... and so it turned out that the bearings were so clagged that the bit actually turning was the rubber in the top bush. I dismantled the tops, cleaned and greased the swivel and bolted things back together, hopefully improving that situation. I did have to make a tool to grab the top of the damper to be able to unscrew the retaining nut. It kindof looked like the nut was bottoming out on the damper thread which meant that the rubber probably wasnt getting as well clamped as it wanted, so I replaced the spacer in there with slightly longer bits I found in my box of bits, atho first I tried stacking washers, which didnt work. My special tool So thats all back together, but you can get a proper flat needle roller bearing to replace the fiber bit, so I might order a set of those as one of the fiber boys was looking a bit sorry... Then it was time to address the gearbox leak, so I drove to Repco to warm the oil and buy some replacement 80/90 non EP gear oil. I pulled the drain plug and modded it a bit to take an O ring rather than a flat copper washer. I did this by welding on a sleeve to create the crush stop and retain the Oring, hopefully this might work a bit better. The thicker oil will probably help too. I topped up the box and called it a day..

I feel your sliding wedge pain, every time I mess with my brakes I ask myself who the fuck thought this was a reasonable solution to that particular problem.

Yea I way prefer rubber over poly, the materials compliance is why it is used. Having said that I would still use a printed part if it the real one was difficult to find...

I printed some shore 90 TPU bushes for someone on here, as far as I know they work fine. Hardness is more like poly than rubber obvs

Ublock origin and revanced fixes much of that....

Shutup10

Another clean sheet wof, what a wee gem. The only non critical issues are a slow leak from the passenger front tyre and the gearbox plug leak, both of which will get sorted at some point. I might even have another go at that 'good' gearbox to see if I just didnt fuck it up, although any future box changes wont get the $200 Redline MTL again, just bog standard slippy shit I reckon. Other than that it just goes like a stroppy, rowdy and unruly bitch, perfect.

Has anyone got any recommendations for a decent battery auto tester? Not just voltage, but if it is actually fucked etc. Maybe this one? https://www.jaycar.co.nz/12vdc-lead-acid-battery-tester/p/QP2261 https://www.repco.co.nz/tools-equipment/automotive-tools/auto-electrical-tools/projecta-battery-tester-100amp-blt100/p/A1004697 Chur

Put 2x in so it is still an 8 cylinder and still have all the space?

CNC routed a box to hold all my cooking stuff for camping.

@Luna Eclipsed will be in chch in his X1/9 on the 5th/6th April, you boys should fix up a meet and drive...

Man I just had the most frustrating conversation with my mother. She wanted a solution for her device charging situation but utterly refused to use anything other than the word 'plug' to decribe either the power supply block, the 3 different usb types or the cables themselves. Then gets shitty when I ask her to explain more clearly, then even more so after I suggested that my mind reading skills were insufficient for the task at hand.

Alex only uses crayons, he wouldn't understand such technicalities.

Like the film based microfiche catalogs etc? Kindof keen if so

The fucking things are proliferating Elliots beast is running significantly worse than a bag of dicks, probably to do with the shitty OE points distributor. So I just put an electric fuel pump and some random points replacement system that he sourced, I just finished that up and it runs mint now. Driving the two is interesting and really highlights the difference in livelyness, mostly that mine has a way, way fatter mid range as well as more top end. But the standard car is still a good time, you just would need more gearbox use to keep it in the top end. In blue boy news, the new rad is working well, and apart from the indicator light in the dash needing a jiggle to get working again, all seems solid. Certainly solid enough to annoy the citizens of Nelson with dodgy cut in/passing maneuvers at full noise and a staggeringly unnecessary amount of popping and banging on the overrun. 100% mint then. Except for the dripping gearbox plug

Maybe it is a FWD van with a 3500kg GVM? Cut the back off and fab a chassis. Job done.

Nuts or bolts? I have lots of spare bolts tha mught work...

Yea cof's are boring.

There is something appealing about the lowness of that DS, any ute or truck chassis would end up too high.

Wof/cof

3.5 ton total weight/ 1.75 ton vehicle weight gives a 1.75 ton load....? Surely thats doable? The X1/9 is only 900kg

I wonder if the cert rules would allow me to build something like this? Not a DS obviously, but some other reasonably grunty FWD toyota...

Righto. I decided to chuck that radiator in today, easy as. I started swapping things over from one rad to the other then thought I had better check that the thermoswitch worked ok, and it turns out the answer is no. Thats a bit odd thinks I (the inevitable start of a new learning experience). So I looked at the wiring diagrams to see if I had misunderstood how that shit works and noticed that the thermoswitch worked as expected but was wired to the signal side of a relay, which was not what I expected. So now I began to understand some things, mostly that assumption makes a fuckwit out of just me. So what has happened is that when I did the rewire I assumed that the wires coming out of the thermoswitch took current because they were fat, but actually the fan probably worked once or twice and then the switch burnt out. So that one time it got hot sitting in traffic without the fan coming on probably blew the head gasket, leading to all that other fuckery of the last few weeks. Cool. Or not probably. So this time I put a second fan so I could manually switch it and then spent the rest of today creating and installing an entire new bit of loom that should solve that completely, one fan on the themoswitch, one on a manual switch. And all run through relays, natch. So hopefully that is the only fuckup on the wiring... It was kindof a costly one really. /facepalm

There probably should be one